Fastest Chrysler?

It can, all you need is some time and a keen attetion to detail,there is a medical term for it too, A.A.D.D ,but it is still cheaper than my drug habit WAS.................boat dr

To each his own poison....
Kinda like ReidP said, " I outgrew bowties in grammer school"
MOPAR...Them days are gone
FoMoCo...Not the same but close
GM.....Livin in the past

8122pbrainard wrote: Eric H wrote: Just curious on the Water pump deal, I know thats What we run on the track and street ford motors. I just know the 2nd water pump(forgive me for not knowing the proper name) Takes a good bit of force to turn. CSR among others make a small block water pump On a dyno we have seen as much as 15 RWHP with the electric units Eric, Fill me in. I can see the gain at the track were you don't run a alternator to keep the battery charged but you mentioned street fords too. What is the gain there?

Well If your charging system is up to par... They dont draw that many amps! Its like having your head lights on.

Im my Car, The class i run does no allow Electric water pumps but i have put one on just for kicks and i have seen about 1/10th in the 1/8th and 1/4. Any thing that will free up drag will make power. Most cars i race with all have alternators and what not. Its the Class rules to have one.

I would have to say if you car is wired right, you have a good battery or 2. and good working alternator. The amp draw is nothen too kick your your charging system into over drive.

I would venture to say that the water pump would be worth a solid few ponys.

Would it be simpler and less expensive to can the recirc and add a Y pipe init's place and run just the Raw Water. Nahhhh thats too simple, but it sure worked on my motor,
I gained 100 hp , due to parasitic losses, and lost 200 lbs. in cast iron parts i took off......LOL
Not really but I did lose a few pounds from the removal ot the Cast Iron timing cover, ciculating pump, the raw water pum bracket abd the large pulley and belt used to drive it.
The new Timing cover is alum. and the Raw water pump crank driven.I removed 78 lbs and added back 12 quiet a return on my dollar per pound.
The Hi Teks were a weight saver too,2 manfolds with risers=88 lbs
Hi-Teks = 24 lbs, at the price the were not a good return for lbs saved,but they look good.............boat dr
25.00 per pound x 66 lbs.of removed mass, kinda pricey............

Eric H wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Eric H wrote: Just curious on the Water pump deal, I know thats What we run on the track and street ford motors. I just know the 2nd water pump(forgive me for not knowing the proper name) Takes a good bit of force to turn. CSR among others make a small block water pump On a dyno we have seen as much as 15 RWHP with the electric units Eric, Fill me in. I can see the gain at the track were you don't run a alternator to keep the battery charged but you mentioned street fords too. What is the gain there? Well If your charging system is up to par... They dont draw that many amps! Its like having your head lights on. Im my Car, The class i run does no allow Electric water pumps but i have put one on just for kicks and i have seen about 1/10th in the 1/8th and 1/4. Any thing that will free up drag will make power. Most cars i race with all have alternators and what not. Its the Class rules to have one. I would have to say if you car is wired right, you have a good battery or 2. and good working alternator. The amp draw is nothen too kick your your charging system into over drive. I would venture to say that the water pump would be worth a solid few ponys.

Eric, I don't know very much about building up race cars and am going by basic physics and must be missing something. You say that on the dyno that you gained 15 HP without the water pump. To produce 15 HP electricly, you need 746 watts per HP. That means 11,190 watts or 932 amps at 12 volts not even factoring in generating losses! What am I doing wrong?? What power are you freeing up by switching from mechanically driving the pump to electrically driving it? You now have to spin the alternator and you will have extra losses due to alternators not being 100% efficient! I know the 932 amps is unrealistic so maybe the 15 HP is too? A 15 HP pump by the way will move over 600 GPM with a near zero head and suction.

I like your car. Looks like you have fun with it. Now we need to get you off the track and on the water!

That looks like a super fun class to be in eric. It makes you squeeze every bit of hp out any way you can. Thats extremely impressive for stock cams and intake

Barry, do not try to reinvent the wheel.
Motor run, pump run.....
Be it a belt driven or a direct drive off the crank,kinda dummy proof.
Electric motors or pumps driven any other way is just asking for trouble.Good idea about how to winterize but again easier is not always better........Boat dr

I've been lurking but not participating like I should or would like to. I'm so busy at work right now that I've not been able to pull away from time to time like a normally do long enough to partake. But I'm out here! For a neat and simple water system, you should see the speed skiff's set up. It only has an electric pump for cooling at idle. After that, it's force fed and apparently pumps in enough to keep it cool. There's no circulating pump either. A pick-up line comes in from the bottom at the transom and splits in the engine with one going to each head and to each side of the block. Water exits out the other end of the block and into the manifolds. Because this engine wasn't set up to use an alternator either, there are pulleys or belts whatsoever. You just gotta remember to flick on that water pump every time you drop back down to idle.

Phats, just reading back, you mentioned about not using the 318 crank or rods. For a car I'm with you but I believe I was told that the marine 318 crank is a forged steel piece. How can I verify? It also has the reverse rotation nurling in it. In Marshall's 340, we are indeed running the 318 crank.

Especially for Phats and any other Mopar enthusiasts: I went with Nautique John to move a boat of his from our whse to another building he stores boats in from time to time, which is co-owned by race driver PJ Jones, son of racing great Parnelli Jones. John is showing me this funny-colored old Mopar which is really clean but doesn't stand out that much, but John said another buddy told him the car is worth a fortune. So I took a closer look inside at the perfect interior and said "what the heck" and raised the hood. And oh my god, it's a '63 Super Stock Plymouth 426 Max Wedge. The picts are from my camera phone so unfortunately they're not the best. It also had side cut-outs on the exhaust and a 4-sp. I could have stared at the 426ci-(415 or 425hp) dual quad engine for days. I immediately thought about Phats (Zach) here. Awesome!





I got into the office and googled a bit to learn more and found this site. The car/engine/exhaust system, etc., was all identical to what's shown on the 7-8 pages of this article.   In the picts, the exh manifold looks like a log style, but they're actually cast iron headers and you're looking at the front cylinder pipe which goes across the top. Page 7 from the article shows them really clear. That's all the tech I have on this, so I'd better get busy on yesterday's work.
http://maxwedge.com/documentation/63ssply/page1.html

phatsat67 wrote: Thats cool reid. That makes sense that the marine crank is forged because it takes alot more beating than your run of the mill 318 in grandmas plymouth haha. I dont know how you would verify if its forged or not. There may be a lack of casting lines on the unmachined parts of the crank.

I've tried it a few times and really couldn't get the hang of reading the sparks but here's how you ID the forged or the cast. Pg. 4 has the descriptions and pg. 5 has the pictures of the sparks. The cast will show the "gray cast" spark and the forged will show close to the "alloy" spark. The next page also has the hammer and chisel method.

By the way, someone who has been around lots of cranks, told me you should be able to tell just by looking at it???

Spark testing steel

mmmmmmmm donuts
mmmmmmmm cross ram

if your looking at the crank even if it is forged you will see a line that looks like a parting line but it will be very clean and straight on a forging, on a casting it's going to be wider and very non-uniform in appearance. Also look at the surface texture of the non-machined area's as they will be smooth for a forging and a casting will have an orange peal look to it.

think about it for a minute if it's cast it was done using greensand so that granualler texture gets transfer when it's cast. On a forging it's hamered with a hugh die that has a mirror finish to it.

Good observation 79. I knew there had to be an easy to tell because of hammering the forged metal. Ive never actually had a forged crank out of a motor in front although I have 4 forged crank motors in the garage haha.

BTW I always thought it would be totally cool to do a max wedge cross ram setup in a southwind or a wildcat or something of that sort that came with the 413.

oops sorry should have read above closer

Wheels up baby.