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Fastest Chrysler?

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URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9757
Printed Date: May-13-2024 at 9:21pm


Topic: Fastest Chrysler?
Posted By: Eric H
Subject: Fastest Chrysler?
Date Posted: March-01-2008 at 10:36pm
SO i see all the talk, OF who has the fastest boat. Most of what i see is alot of small ford motors. I know much more about them, since im a big Mustang guy.

Dont know too much about these chrysler motors. Who has been working on these trying to get a few more ponys. I would of loved to get a 351, But i could not pass up the deal i got on my new ride!!!

Thinking about getting some head work done, Mabey new springs, a fresh mill and a Valve job. I was looking for some after market heads. How Ever the market on them seem kinda small. Also looking a Cam. It allready has a edelbrock carb. just seeing who has tried what with these 318s



Replies:
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: March-01-2008 at 11:31pm
What type of boat Eric??? If I recall correctly, Marshall's Mustang is one of the fastest, if not the fastest amongst the members here, and it is powered by a Mopar. Stay tuned, I'm sure Marshall and ReidP have some insight. BKH

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Livin' the Dream



Posted By: Eric H
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 1:02am
its a 71 Martinique





Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 2:22am
Beautifull boat eric. almost baught one identical. The best thing you can do is trash the stock 318 heads they have really small ports. Best head for you would be any 360 head (prefferbly a J casting) or a 340(X casting) The best head for you would be a late 80's early 90's 360 swirl port head. These are the big mopar stock casting heads that make power. The worst part of swapping to a 360 head is the drop in compression from bigger combustion chamber. You could just get them milled to bump the compression and mill an intake manifold to match.

Is that a standard rotation? Im a mopar nut(in the car world). If you want to get really freaky build a 360 they are many to be had cheaply.

I have a mild 360 in my plymouth that makes about 400hp with a little cam, stock dual plane intake, stock smog 360 heads with a 3 angle valve job. Id love to build myself a mopar boat. I dont know which cam would be the best for your application but there is some good power to be had out of a mopar.


Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 3:11am
Eric, you and I need to talk, as I'm a big Mustang/Ford guy as well, but running a close second is Mopar. I outgrew bowties as a kid. As BKH noted, arguably the fastest current boat on this site is Marshall Morgan's 340 '70 light blue Mustang, which runs 56-57+ mph all day long. His old diary listing still shows the nice 273 Mopar it came with. His 340 has a vintage Edelbrock intake (do a search on the important marine mod'n aspects of this swap before installing), flat top KB pistons, an upgraded marine cam (getting harder and harder to find) which has the same lift specs as the orig hot 340 found in the auto appl'n, and a very warmed over set of iron 2.02/1.60 heads. Aftermarket heads are available from Edelbrock but those are pricey, so I'd recommend spending a few bucks on the ones you have with good results or find "X" or "J" Mopar cast irons castings. It may be best to rework your existing going with larger valves, as the 340-360 larger chamber X and J heads will lower your compression somewhat (unless you change pistons) offsetting flow gains. If you decide to do a total rebuild strongly consider getting a bare 340 block for $200-500 as you can use the rods and crank from your 318 as the stroke was/is the same. Don't look at the 360 as it's slightly different requiring a new $$oil pan, etc. The biggest downfall IMO are the old log exhausts, which sound as good or better than any engine out there, but can't possibly flow as good as a later model center-rise or more header-type exhaust. The later model Chrysler center rise pieces are out there and available. I think it's Brian, (someone correct me if I'm wrong since he doesn't come on the site much if any) that has the 71-72 SN with the 318 and Holley Pro-jection which has been at Green Lake the last 2 years and flys to tune of 52 mph. I rode in it, and it's strong. (I started and stopped 1/2 dozen times and over 2 hrs and a handful of beers on this post so please forgive mistakes)    

EDIT: I just realize Phats beat me to half the punch after I'd finished and I wasn't responding to any of his comments. He knows his Mopar sh%t.

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ReidP
/diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang



Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 3:19am
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:


I have a mild 360 in my plymouth that makes about 400hp with a little cam, stock dual plane intake, stock smog 360 heads with a 3 angle valve job. .


You are telling us you gained 100 HP w/mild cam and a 3 angle valve job,. If those numbers are correct Marshall should be pushing 500+ and top speed will be 70+ when he gets it propped.
Sounds like the #s are a little high there for so little work, JMHO....Boat dr

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 3:19am
The only parts of this thread I understand is: the 318 sounds good. Mine takes me fast enough to ski, and I love the sound while I'm being towed behind it.

Someday I'll find a downhill lake and see if I can go faster.

Chuck

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Walk on Water
www.coldwater.me


http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique


Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 3:32am
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:


I have a mild 360 in my plymouth that makes about 400hp with a little cam, stock dual plane intake, stock smog 360 heads with a 3 angle valve job. .


You are telling us you gained 100 HP w/mild cam and a 3 angle valve job,. If those numbers are correct Marshall should be pushing 500+ and top speed will be 70+ when he gets it propped.


Billy, yes those numbers are correct and Marshall will be running 70 as soon as I can get Eric Johnson to cast us a 12x25 prop. Now get a cup of joe go to bed.

And Chuck, what are doing up this late, as we know you have to get up early on Sunday mornings? But I'll be there too, but it might just be the 11:00.

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ReidP
/diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang



Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 10:29am
Im a chevy guy to the end, but you cant beat the sound of a mopar

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: p/allen
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 12:30pm
Originally posted by The Lake The Lake wrote:

   

Someday I'll find a downhill lake and see if I can go faster.

Chuck


Chuck You should go to a river . Going down stream you could probably pick up 7 mph GPS.

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Pat
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w146/72ccfan/100_5977-1.jpg - My 72 Skier
Rock River
Dixon,ILL.


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 1:06pm
Niagra river is about12 mph, when you see spray though you start to get worried

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 1:08pm
I think Boat doc, MM and Reid are not telling us the whole story, i figured it out

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Eric H
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 1:27pm
Forgive me for not being a huge Mopar man, But what model cars would i find the x/j/swirl port heads on. Seeing how im a ford guy, I know that cobra mustangs 93-95 came with GT40 heads and 5.0L exploders came with the GT40P head. not to mention you can round up used trickflow heads for well under 1000 bucks.

Like i said im still learning about these mopar motors.

What keywords should i use to find the marnie mods for a intake?

I was reading that all off the mopar heads lack in the exhaust port, and headers makes a huge diffrence, i know thats not a huge option, unless i spen big bucks. I guessing you should favor the Exhaust duration in cam specs...

Thanks for all the help so far!!!


Posted By: Eric H
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 1:33pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:


I have a mild 360 in my plymouth that makes about 400hp with a little cam, stock dual plane intake, stock smog 360 heads with a 3 angle valve job. .


You are telling us you gained 100 HP w/mild cam and a 3 angle valve job,. If those numbers are correct Marshall should be pushing 500+ and top speed will be 70+ when he gets it propped.
Sounds like the #s are a little high there for so little work, JMHO....Boat dr


Like is said im new to the whole boat world, But i know timing must be a factor hear. In my race car we are cranking out about 34 Degree's of timing where i know boats must be way lower, like 5-10 or something.

If i ran like 5 in my car motor i would barely get out of its own way.


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 3:38pm
whered you get the 5-10 info from, we are running timing similar to cars, its just not vacuum advanced.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: Eric H
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 3:52pm
i just hear some some buddys, running lower timing numbers, I guess the factory settings....

Mostly I/O Small Chevy Motors



Posted By: Eric H
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 3:53pm
Any one run a Elecric Water pump?


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 4:27pm
Eric H ,Why?????????
Some of us sill run a raw water only set up , but the timing chain cover may not be available for a MOPAR.
This cover allows you to remove the circ pump and replaces it with fitting to allow water circulation to the engine just using the RWater pump only..........Boat dr
It saves some weight and cleans up the front of the motors.....

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 4:46pm
Originally posted by Eric H Eric H wrote:

Any one run a Elecric Water pump?


You are not going to see any gains in HP with running a electric pump. In fact the opposite! You would need to keep charging the battery while running the pump. The generation of electric power isn't 100% efficient and why alternators heat up. It's lost energy being converted to heat.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 8:29pm
plus if it shorts you probably wont catch the overheat until it is overheated

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: Eric H
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 9:26pm
Just curious on the Water pump deal, I know thats What we run on the track and street ford motors. I just know the 2nd water pump(forgive me for not knowing the proper name) Takes a good bit of force to turn.

CSR among others make a small block water pump

On a dyno we have seen as much as 15 RWHP with the electric units


Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 9:31pm
Originally posted by Eric H Eric H wrote:

Forgive me for not being a huge Mopar man, But what model cars would i find the x/j/swirl port heads on.
Like i said im still learning about these mopar motors.

What keywords should i use to find the marnie mods for a intake?

I was reading that all off the mopar heads lack in the exhaust port, and headers makes a huge diffrence, i know thats not a huge option, unless i spen big bucks. I guessing you should favor the Exhaust duration in cam specs...

Thanks for all the help so far!!!



Eric H, If you search ebay or wherever else just search Mopar X or J heads. X heads were only available on 340 engines '68 to about 71-73 or so and J's were available on many other car models on the 340 and 360 engines for a number of years later as Phats can verify. But make sure as we mentioned that some serious consideration is taken in respect to the head chamber size as your existing head chambers are considerably smaller and you don't want your compression ratio to drop any lower than it already is. That's the only reason I suggested possibly having port and polish work done to you existing heads along with larger valves. The issue with the intake is that it must be taped for the water fitting coming from the front cover and blocked off near that same point so that water doesn't pass across the front of the intake and routes as intended. If you pull your existing intake or that hose in question, you'll see what we're talking about.   

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ReidP
/diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang



Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 9:44pm
Reid, i think a little oil runs in your veins

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 10:09pm
Originally posted by Eric H Eric H wrote:

Just curious on the Water pump deal, I know thats What we run on the track and street ford motors. I just know the 2nd water pump(forgive me for not knowing the proper name) Takes a good bit of force to turn.

CSR among others make a small block water pump

On a dyno we have seen as much as 15 RWHP with the electric units


Eric, Fill me in. I can see the gain at the track were you don't run a alternator to keep the battery charged but you mentioned street fords too. What is the gain there?

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 10:14pm
Yes boat doc. It has never been dynoed but considering the weight of the car and the 1/4 et and mph it should be making 385 to 400 at the crank. I didnt mention it has some headman 1 5/8 headers and 9.8 to 1 ish compression. 360's run like raped apes with minimal speed mods. The car weighs around 3900 lbs with me in it and runs 13.19 at 104mph on 235 drag radials 2600 stall with a stock transmision 3.91 sure grip rear end. Best 60 foot is 1.88 and does that all day long on pump gas at 32degrees full advance. I think theres some more power in the timing becasue most small blocks like 36 degrees for most power but I didnt have time to bump it up anymore.

Like the other guys said the 340 swap would be much easier than the 360 because a 360 is externally balanced which is stupid because it needs a balanced flywheel or converter so I just had mine balanced internally with heavy mettel in the crank and now I can do whatever I want on the outside of it. Dont use the 318 rods or crank. The earlier 340 cranks were forged and 340s had much stronger rods.


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 10:38pm
Oh yea obviously I have a non stock carb on it haha. Its a speed demon 625 mechanical secondary. Id reccomend a demon to anyone it bolted on and ran perfectly with excellent mixture. They make marine demons now.


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 10:41pm
Still have a serios doubt that you are making that kinda HP with that motor.
Just for giggles if your numbers are accurate, the mods to my stroker should net me at least 400+. And it just aint gonna happen in the real world.
If you can acheive one HP per cube you gotta lot of money invested.It is not gonna happen with a set of headers and a mild cam on a smog motor w/ higher than normal comp.
There is a lot more to the equation , but then if your spinning that MOPAR 7500 it may be making those #'s.
Several mods to mine and I HONESTLY think she is in the 330 range and that may be a little HIGH..........Again JMHO...Boat dr

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 10:51pm
Anyways all hands with the car point to numbers around that area. Look up mopar builds that have been dynoed on the internet. The inspiraion for my motor was an artical I read in mopar muscle when I was about 14 years old. It was a smog head 360 that made right at 400 hp. The only difference in that motor was the cam. Im not one to make stuff up I just let the car talk for me haha. Mopars are freaks thats why I like them;) haha. Id guess your motor would make alot more power too if it were pushing exhaust through hedders with no water in the exhaust also. thats a consideration.

When I pull it to paint the car later on ill dyno it and let you know or ill chassis dyno it and see what it makes at the wheels.

Maybe it doesnt make the power and im just an amazing driver haha.


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 11:10pm
Do a search on the HI-Teks, they are true headers, and the water don't dump till after the collectors.My numbers are still low compared to yours.....


1964 American Skier, click on this under my name and you will see pics of my motor and the SS HI=TEKS.

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-02-2008 at 11:11pm
yeaa i saw the hi teks i didnt know much about em.   Check this artical this is bassically my motor to a t only with a little better head and less cubes.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0409_318_engine_build/dyno_testing.html

Maybe you need a mopar doc j.k I wish my ford looked like yours.


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 12:06am
It can, all you need is some time and a keen attetion to detail,there is a medical term for it too, A.A.D.D ,but it is still cheaper than my drug habit WAS.................boat dr

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: MaddMarxx
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 12:16am
I did not know there was a such thing as a fast Mopar!

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Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 12:39am
To each his own poison....
Kinda like ReidP said, " I outgrew bowties in grammer school"
MOPAR...Them days are gone
FoMoCo...Not the same but close
GM.....Livin in the past

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 1:11am
Nice boat doc. I think I have a hardcore case of ADD also. Ill get around to speed parts on the boat someday hopefully. Now it just serves as the faithfull work horse.

Heyy now MM thems fighting words ;) Come up to Indiana and Ill show you a few(in cars of course).

Im gettin ready to start a mild top end build up on my lil bros 72 dart swinger 318. Id like to see it in stock 340 range(275ish).

BTW eric H the J and X heads are easy to identify, between ( i think its the rear) two spark plugs there will either be a J or an X cast into the head. Ill have to do some more research on the casting numbers of the newer heads.(ive got a set on a motor our in the garage).


Posted By: Eric H
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 2:06am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Eric H Eric H wrote:

Just curious on the Water pump deal, I know thats What we run on the track and street ford motors. I just know the 2nd water pump(forgive me for not knowing the proper name) Takes a good bit of force to turn.

CSR among others make a small block water pump

On a dyno we have seen as much as 15 RWHP with the electric units


Eric, Fill me in. I can see the gain at the track were you don't run a alternator to keep the battery charged but you mentioned street fords too. What is the gain there?


Well If your charging system is up to par... They dont draw that many amps! Its like having your head lights on.

Im my Car, The class i run does no allow Electric water pumps but i have put one on just for kicks and i have seen about 1/10th in the 1/8th and 1/4. Any thing that will free up drag will make power. Most cars i race with all have alternators and what not. Its the Class rules to have one.

I would have to say if you car is wired right, you have a good battery or 2. and good working alternator. The amp draw is nothen too kick your your charging system into over drive.

I would venture to say that the water pump would be worth a solid few ponys.


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 2:18am
What do you race(car) eric?


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 2:47am
Would it be simpler and less expensive to can the recirc and add a Y pipe init's place and run just the Raw Water. Nahhhh thats too simple, but it sure worked on my motor,
I gained 100 hp , due to parasitic losses, and lost 200 lbs. in cast iron parts i took off......LOL
Not really but I did lose a few pounds from the removal ot the Cast Iron timing cover, ciculating pump, the raw water pum bracket abd the large pulley and belt used to drive it.
The new Timing cover is alum. and the Raw water pump crank driven.I removed 78 lbs and added back 12 quiet a return on my dollar per pound.
The Hi Teks were a weight saver too,2 manfolds with risers=88 lbs
Hi-Teks = 24 lbs, at the price the were not a good return for lbs saved,but they look good.............boat dr
25.00 per pound x 66 lbs.of removed mass, kinda pricey............

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: Eric H
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 2:53am


I race in a the series NMRA

and a class called Factory stock.

here are the basic rules stock lift cam, stock heads(ported), Stock Intake(NO port work), only allowed a .030 over bore. Must be fuel injeced. steel only connecting rods, only flat top piston. Must have power steering, Drag radials and there are weight limits.

My car is a 4.6L sohc, its is 286 CI flat top pistons with 12.7-1 compression. 44cc combustion chambers. cnc ported heads. alot of little tricks Coated Bearings, Coated Pisons, Lighteng stock crank 0 balance. Everything is super light, hollow sem valves pistons are like 330 grams rods like 600 or so. coated wrist pins super low tension rings,(total seal)

its got alot of tricks and alot of money in it.

Makes about 370 to the wheels on a dyno jet. weight is 3125 and i have ran 11.40@119 on drag radials with a stick shift. a real sick shift, H pattern and all that!! i droped like 100 lbs out of the trunk and and put on a few tricks with slicks and clicked off a 11.18@121

its roles pretty good for what im allowed to do.




thats in ohio at National trail race way


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 7:40am
Originally posted by Eric H Eric H wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Eric H Eric H wrote:

Just curious on the Water pump deal, I know thats What we run on the track and street ford motors. I just know the 2nd water pump(forgive me for not knowing the proper name) Takes a good bit of force to turn.

CSR among others make a small block water pump

On a dyno we have seen as much as 15 RWHP with the electric units


Eric, Fill me in. I can see the gain at the track were you don't run a alternator to keep the battery charged but you mentioned street fords too. What is the gain there?


Well If your charging system is up to par... They dont draw that many amps! Its like having your head lights on.

Im my Car, The class i run does no allow Electric water pumps but i have put one on just for kicks and i have seen about 1/10th in the 1/8th and 1/4. Any thing that will free up drag will make power. Most cars i race with all have alternators and what not. Its the Class rules to have one.

I would have to say if you car is wired right, you have a good battery or 2. and good working alternator. The amp draw is nothen too kick your your charging system into over drive.

I would venture to say that the water pump would be worth a solid few ponys.


Eric, I don't know very much about building up race cars and am going by basic physics and must be missing something. You say that on the dyno that you gained 15 HP without the water pump. To produce 15 HP electricly, you need 746 watts per HP. That means 11,190 watts or 932 amps at 12 volts not even factoring in generating losses! What am I doing wrong?? What power are you freeing up by switching from mechanically driving the pump to electrically driving it? You now have to spin the alternator and you will have extra losses due to alternators not being 100% efficient! I know the 932 amps is unrealistic so maybe the 15 HP is too? A 15 HP pump by the way will move over 600 GPM with a near zero head and suction.

I like your car. Looks like you have fun with it. Now we need to get you off the track and on the water!



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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 8:37am
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Would it be simpler and less expensive to can the recirc and add a Y pipe init's place and run just the Raw Water.


Doc, I know you have been a long time Ford fan so to fill you in on the old Chrysler 318, it was set up like most of the early V8's. RWP only. The marinizers had a good idea and did know something about parasitic HP losses but then the "bean counters" got involved!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-03-2008 at 11:03am
That looks like a super fun class to be in eric. It makes you squeeze every bit of hp out any way you can. Thats extremely impressive for stock cams and intake


Posted By: Bhedbloom
Date Posted: March-10-2008 at 8:17pm
Has anyone on this site ever run an electric water pump? It seems like it would make a lot of maintenance issues easier. If the electric pumps don't use soft rubber impellers it would eliminate that weak link in the cooling system. Also winterizing should be much easier. It seems like a no brainer to me. Somebody stop me.........What am I missing?

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Barry, South Carolina


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-10-2008 at 8:56pm
Barry, do not try to reinvent the wheel.
Motor run, pump run.....
Be it a belt driven or a direct drive off the crank,kinda dummy proof.
Electric motors or pumps driven any other way is just asking for trouble.Good idea about how to winterize but again easier is not always better........Boat dr

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: Bhedbloom
Date Posted: March-10-2008 at 9:15pm
Boat Dr,

Good call!

After giving it more thought, I would still have to run an impeller pick-up pump to an electric circulating pump. Too much going on there for me.

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Barry, South Carolina


Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: March-10-2008 at 9:49pm
I've been lurking but not participating like I should or would like to. I'm so busy at work right now that I've not been able to pull away from time to time like a normally do long enough to partake. But I'm out here! For a neat and simple water system, you should see the speed skiff's set up. It only has an electric pump for cooling at idle. After that, it's force fed and apparently pumps in enough to keep it cool. There's no circulating pump either. A pick-up line comes in from the bottom at the transom and splits in the engine with one going to each head and to each side of the block. Water exits out the other end of the block and into the manifolds. Because this engine wasn't set up to use an alternator either, there are pulleys or belts whatsoever. You just gotta remember to flick on that water pump every time you drop back down to idle.

Phats, just reading back, you mentioned about not using the 318 crank or rods. For a car I'm with you but I believe I was told that the marine 318 crank is a forged steel piece. How can I verify? It also has the reverse rotation nurling in it. In Marshall's 340, we are indeed running the 318 crank.

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ReidP
/diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang



Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-11-2008 at 12:05am
Thats cool reid. That makes sense that the marine crank is forged because it takes alot more beating than your run of the mill 318 in grandmas plymouth haha. I dont know how you would verify if its forged or not. There may be a lack of casting lines on the unmachined parts of the crank. 340's are where its at. There is alot of affordable stroker kits out there for the LA small blocks. My 360 is running a cast smog motor crank and It turns 6100 through the traps with no problems and 6500 miles so far. I would assume with the shorter stroke of the 318 the cast crank would preform perfectly well under 6000rpms for extended periods I would say.


Posted By: reidp
Date Posted: March-18-2008 at 11:01am
Especially for Phats and any other Mopar enthusiasts: I went with Nautique John to move a boat of his from our whse to another building he stores boats in from time to time, which is co-owned by race driver PJ Jones, son of racing great Parnelli Jones. John is showing me this funny-colored old Mopar which is really clean but doesn't stand out that much, but John said another buddy told him the car is worth a fortune. So I took a closer look inside at the perfect interior and said "what the heck" and raised the hood. And oh my god, it's a '63 Super Stock Plymouth 426 Max Wedge. The picts are from my camera phone so unfortunately they're not the best. It also had side cut-outs on the exhaust and a 4-sp. I could have stared at the 426ci-(415 or 425hp) dual quad engine for days. I immediately thought about Phats (Zach) here. Awesome!





I got into the office and googled a bit to learn more and found this site. The car/engine/exhaust system, etc., was all identical to what's shown on the 7-8 pages of this article.   In the picts, the exh manifold looks like a log style, but they're actually cast iron headers and you're looking at the front cylinder pipe which goes across the top. Page 7 from the article shows them really clear. That's all the tech I have on this, so I'd better get busy on yesterday's work.
http://maxwedge.com/documentation/63ssply/page1.html - http://maxwedge.com/documentation/63ssply/page1.html

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ReidP
/diaries/details.asp?ID=231&yrstart=1971&yrend=1975 - 1973 Mustang



Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: March-18-2008 at 11:27am
Gorgeous car Reid. When I was a kid, a guy up the street had a green '64 Sport Fury with a small V8. It had bucket seats and a 4 sp, no console, with a big shifter. Those were hot cars. That one is really nice.

I know an old farmer up here that has a 300 Chrysler that has a 413 in it. It has this intake manifold that he says is factory. It puts the carbs to the side, out over the wheel wells.

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-18-2008 at 1:04pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Thats cool reid. That makes sense that the marine crank is forged because it takes alot more beating than your run of the mill 318 in grandmas plymouth haha. I dont know how you would verify if its forged or not. There may be a lack of casting lines on the unmachined parts of the crank.


I've tried it a few times and really couldn't get the hang of reading the sparks but here's how you ID the forged or the cast. Pg. 4 has the descriptions and pg. 5 has the pictures of the sparks. The cast will show the "gray cast" spark and the forged will show close to the "alloy" spark. The next page also has the hammer and chisel method.

By the way, someone who has been around lots of cranks, told me you should be able to tell just by looking at it???

http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/OXY_handbook/589oxy24_4.htm - Spark testing steel

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-18-2008 at 8:27pm
Oh my reid. Thanks for thinkin of me hahah thats definatly a Zachy mopar:). Nothing like a crossram factory 12 second ride:). Those are amazing cars. We had a beautifull rust free 64 numbers matching 383 4 speed car but couldnt afford to keep it or restore it so we sold her and made a little for another car another day. The next car I plan to build later will be that style of b body either plymouth or dodge in a big block 4 speed. Id like to clone a max wedge but the wedge parts are to $$$$$$$. I dig that salmon color too.

Riley those long ram cars are cool too. That is original and it makes GOBS of low end torque pluss it looks like no other.

Pete I have no clue on the forged Ill try to ask around or maybe look at the non forged crank in my motor outta the car on the stand maybe u can show me a pic of the bolt holes on the rear of the crank maybe they are different I havent a clue.


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: March-18-2008 at 10:16pm
mmmmmmmm donuts
mmmmmmmm cross ram


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-19-2008 at 1:09am
MMMMMmmmm mopar:)


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: March-19-2008 at 10:33am
if your looking at the crank even if it is forged you will see a line that looks like a parting line but it will be very clean and straight on a forging, on a casting it's going to be wider and very non-uniform in appearance. Also look at the surface texture of the non-machined area's as they will be smooth for a forging and a casting will have an orange peal look to it.

think about it for a minute if it's cast it was done using greensand so that granualler texture gets transfer when it's cast. On a forging it's hamered with a hugh die that has a mirror finish to it.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-19-2008 at 2:08pm
if you tap it lightly you will also here a distinct difference in the metals

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"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-19-2008 at 3:41pm
Good observation 79. I knew there had to be an easy to tell because of hammering the forged metal. Ive never actually had a forged crank out of a motor in front although I have 4 forged crank motors in the garage haha.

BTW I always thought it would be totally cool to do a max wedge cross ram setup in a southwind or a wildcat or something of that sort that came with the 413.


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: March-19-2008 at 8:22pm
with chevys you can tell forged / cast from the casting lines maybe with mopar?


Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: March-19-2008 at 9:02pm
oops sorry should have read above closer


Posted By: Brktracer
Date Posted: March-20-2008 at 1:30am
Super nice cars guys! That Fury is sweet and I'm not a Mopar guy but have turned wrenches plenty on a friends Dart (installed a 440).

Glad to see more racers here!

Here's a couple more pics...









Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-20-2008 at 4:15am
Wheels up baby.



Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-20-2008 at 12:05pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

I knew there had to be an easy to tell because of hammering the forged mettle.




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Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-20-2008 at 2:58pm
Metal, sorry grammar police:). Brain fart.


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-20-2008 at 3:01pm
Well, mettle is a word but has a completely different meaning. If that was indeed a "typo" that was bruttle!

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Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: March-20-2008 at 3:12pm
Yea mettle of honor;) for me because I'm sooo smart:)



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