Starting 87 SN Floor/Stinger Repair

When I flipped over my boat I was fortunate enough to have an overhead crane. I picked it up and looped 4" straps around the boat. Then we lifted it by the straps and friend and I were able to rotate it as the straps just slid in the crane hooks. Then it just sat down on the trailer perfectly. I realize if I was trying to do it at home it wouldn't be that easy.

boy you need to clean the lens of your camera, notice all the spots in the picture.

looking good, I would gel the base it'll last longer and look better I think.

Here is a shot of the inside of the boat. I applied gelcote to this area just inside the gunwale. It is sanded with 220 and 400 at this point. I did not apply over the top or side because I plan to flip the boat and that will just get damaged.

The picture below is the boat minus the windshield. I took it out in one piece. I am preparing to flip the boat.

SkiBum wrote: David, As far as the color goes I am using white as the primary hull color with navy blue on the stripe. When grinding the gelcote off the stern I noticed CC applied the navy first then the silver/grey color second. I don't know if Ill go that route because the white won't hide the blue very well if it gets thin.

Yes, my boat was the same way. The blue accent color was underneath the silve cloud (white). I imagine CC masks off the accent colors directly on the mold. Then they spray the predominant color on the mold, remove the masks and then spray the accent colors right over the top of the primary color. Hence, you have two or three layers of colors. During my repairs, I sanded (grind) through first silver cloud, then electric blue, then black. This was on the side of the hull where all three colors were present, the bottom of the hull only had silver cloud.

I suggest you mask off the line between each color and apply one at a time. Otherwise, you will end up with build-up at the overlap that you will surely sand through trying to flatten coplanar. Pinstriping usually hides the color change line as the line is almost impossible to make perfect.

SkiBum wrote: Unfortunately, I cannot put those young boys to work for my own personal gain. Otherwise, I would never cut 3.5 acres of gra$$ again while I am stationed at Knox.

Well, they could just do it out of the kindness of their hearts for their old pal the Sarge. Seriously though. The empty boat is probably 1400lbs. 10 guys should be able to lift it easily, but you probably want a few more because it's bulky and you don't want it dropped. BKH

David,

I have switched to using tracer and 220 to knock down the orange peel. I will be careful with the 220. I had an inside corner where I ended up sanding away all the new gel. I think it will be easy enough (compared to gelcote on the entire boat) to repair.

As far as the color goes I am using white as the primary hull color with navy blue on the stripe. When grinding the gelcote off the stern I noticed CC applied the navy first then the silver/grey color second. I don't know if Ill go that route because the white won't hide the blue very well if it gets thin.

Unfortunately, I cannot put those young boys to work for my own personal gain. Otherwise, I would never cut 3.5 acres of gra$$ again while I am stationed at Knox.

I can pull the boat out of the garage to roll it over. I thought about rigging a post at the bow, then using the engine crane and a harness to raise the stern.

I also considered simply lifting the stern with the crane and working from stern to bow...when finished, lower the stern and lift the bow in the same fashion.

I just really don't know how I am going to approach it just yet. I have a few more things to do inside the boat before I must decide.

I appreciate the advice. Thank you.

Skibum, I've rolled many wood boats over to do bottoms. You will find it ALLOT easyier to not have to work upside down. Rolling it over on old tires and movers pads with lots of help is the cheapest and simplest. Farmers way is the safest but requires lots of rigging. Do you have enough room to roll it over?

well in that case I would say go for flipping it over.

skibum do you have a way to flip the boat over? 79 is right it would be a good idea to flip it over, but only if you have a safe way to do it. BY safe I mean a sure way of doing and not putting yourself or the boat at risk. The project really looks like it coming along nicely.

TRBenj wrote: You making the trip to GL? Id love to see it in person.

I hope so.

Bill Looks nice, but you might want to re-think putting the motor in to quickly. If your going to do the outside of the hull, then why not just flip it over and do it, then flip it back finish the rest of the inside and do the graphics, unless your gel-koting them on, that might be a little more challenging upside down.   

Bill, the bilge looks terrific. You making the trip to GL? Id love to see it in person.

that looks like my jacuzzi tub, must be a new option, I commend you on the work that you did to the boat and your right only a few (you have to experience it to know) can appreciate the work you put into her.
I would say you have many hours in it to this point
Eric

Wow, that is beautiful.

Excellant job Bill. Watching this project come together like this is amazing. I am sure you are starting to feel pretty excited about your new boat.

81nautique-I thought it was kind of relevant being that this thread is on redoing the interior. Thanks for you input, please do make a post on your rebuild. I would like to see what parts you had in mind.

Leo, Kind of a strange place to post this question. But IMHO there's not enough info there to know what you're getting. Lots of variables there, are the rings moly or just plain cast iron, pistons cast, hypereutictic, I'm sure thy're not forged. Bearings sound standard, should be H series Trimetal. IS the timing set double roller with extra key slots for degreing the cam? Compression ratio chart for pistons comparing head cc's. No Cam? What makes the set reverse roataion, just an oil seal?

Not enough info...call, if he can't answer your questions run.. I'd bet it's a pretty standard performance rebuild kit. I'm currently rebuilding mine and I think I'll start a new thread listing the parts I'm using, I'm sure there will be some feedback on my selections. Curious to see what some of the gurus here think.