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Replacing trailer bearings on my 1988

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skierbrant View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skierbrant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2009 at 5:04pm
Thanks for the awesome information! The pictures are all great stuff. I will fell much more at ease now when changing my bearings!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2009 at 6:49pm
Regarding my tutorial: That writeup was from a few years back. Since then I've learned quite a bit about maintaining boats and trailers. I'll still hold that it is an awesome writeup except for using a screwdriver to drive the bearing races in and out. My new technique is to take the hub to the trailer shop and have them swap the races out. They use an air chisel to hammer the old race out (talk about right tool for the job, 79. An Air Chisel), and a die to pound it back in. Takes them about 5 minutes to do it. No more ruined screwdrivers for me. Those things took forever to tap out, seriously.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2009 at 8:17pm
Pauly and whoever else,

Okay here are the NAPA part #'s I have for replacement everything for a CC trailer.

Inner Bearing     25580   Race 25520
Outer Bearing    15123   Race 15245
Oil Seal        47017

Hope this get's you started. I'd take pic's of the whole set but Kim has the main tow vehicle with her and the're in the back storage compartment.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pauly-Banana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2009 at 8:46pm
I am so impressed with the response to my question! The members of CCF truely care about helping each other out! I would hate to see someone making the really long or short trek to a reunion or just the launch ramp and get stuck! It happened to me right out of the launch ramp about twenty years ago. Luckily I was able to get out of the way so that other boaters could launch their boats. I sold my origional 1983 trailer and upgraded to the 1988 Correct Craft trailer. I now have many ideas that will help me get to Green Lake safe and sound!

Thanks again!   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2009 at 9:02pm
Originally posted by Pauly-Banana Pauly-Banana wrote:

I am so impressed with the response to my question! The members of CCF truely care about helping each other out!


Pauly, this site seems to have a knack of drawing the best people. My first reunion was at the last St. John's river trip and there wasn't a single person I wouldn't have over for dinner or to spend the night.

My boat runs and rides like it does because of the help I've received here. Just don't leave it unlocked at night?!!?   
1988 BFN-sold



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2009 at 9:19pm
Based on the prices, I'd say both etrailer and championtrailer are selling the Redline Chinese bearings.

Based on Morfoot's data
etrailer: BK3-110 $24.95 (single or double lip???)
championtrailer: #12 $21.95 (double lip inner seal)

I used the BK3-310 kit, which basically just uses a smaller outer bearing, LM67048, the race is .113" smaller in outside diameter. The kit was like $3 cheaper because of it. Both sides made it to Green Lake and back 3 times, Clinton and back once, and one side even went down to Alabama and back to pick up Magicman's Hurricane.

I would go with the 15123 outer bearing size to be safe that the race won't be spinning on you. I just googled a Timken 15123 and it's $18 alone! Go to NAPA though and buy something made in the USA!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pauly-Banana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2009 at 1:49am
I'm just printing out a set of instructions and pictures on how to service wheel bearings. Boy the pictures are awsome and clear! What would you recommend for brand of grease to use? I remember using the old style (goldish looking tan color), but I would guess that they have improved on that stuff for a higher temperature rating.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 86BFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2009 at 12:55pm
FYI the bearigs I purchased from NAPA (SKF) were made in mexico. the seals also SKF were made in the USA. I've had no problems. Better than freakin' china IMO.

I used Castrol GTX marine grease. I'm guessing any quailty name brand grease would work fine.

Steve


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storm34 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2009 at 2:27am
I stand corrected!!
    
My guess is that my seals were bad because I lost lots of the packing and the bearings were not just pitted but completely destroyed!

Great info...this thread will be bookmarked!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2009 at 12:13pm
joel and air chissel is a bit much but oh well a nice heavy round tipped punch and hammer always did the trick, never really seen anyone use a press to install them, but we always had the driver for the races sitting on the work bench and it took more time to jack with press than to use the driver and a hammer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2009 at 12:59pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

My guess is that my seals were bad because I lost lots of the packing and the bearings were not just pitted but completely destroyed!


Double-lipped inner seals.

Now I'm not sure how much the marketing folks got their hands on "marine" water insoluble grease, but since it's going directly in and out of the water I'll buy it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2009 at 8:35pm
Originally posted by Pauly-Banana Pauly-Banana wrote:

Donald keep me posted with tips on how it goes!


Pauly,

I did mine on Saturday with the help from this thread. I used a long (9" approx") punch that had a little flat tip. I used it to remove the races. One of my hubs had the two groves like Chris 79 spoke of, but the other hub did not. One Hub must of been a replacement. Heck I fund it harder to get the Oil Seal off than the races. I also damaged one new Oil Seal pressing it into the hub. Another trip to the parts store.

I used the old races to help push the new races into place. Just remember to flip the old race so that you can push it back out from the other side. If you place them taper to taper, you will not be able to get the old pusher race out easily. You will have to once again push both out. I knew this and still did it wrong on one hub. Basically, place the back of the old race to the front tapper of the new one that is in place.

The hardest part was grabbing everything will grease on the rubber gloves. I did not have a work bench with a vice. If I had one of those it would of been a whole lot easier than chasing it on the concrete floor.

I hope this helps,

Donald
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2009 at 10:19pm
Originally posted by Donald80SN Donald80SN wrote:



The hardest part was grabbing everything will grease on the rubber gloves.

Donald


Donald,
I'm just wondering if you have a allergic skin reaction with grease? I saw the gloves in the tutorial and wondered about him too. Under normal conditions there really isn't anything in grease that will hurt you. (unless you live in the state of California!) Vaseline is petroleum "jelly" - IE: grease.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 37N122W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2009 at 1:15am
I just did this job on my trailer a month or so ago. I haven't been able to test drive it yet (it's a bit of a trick getting in and out of our driveway) and now you all have me paranoid that I set the races wrong! I used the screw driver method posted on the thread on the other site. I double checked that they were all the way in and flush and even and all that... If I did it wrong, will I know it by feeling hub for heat after a couple minutes at highway speed?

Is there something I should know about the grease here in the Golden State? It's always nice and slick and smooth...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2009 at 10:10am
Originally posted by 37N122W 37N122W wrote:

it's a bit of a trick getting in and out of our driveway


JJ,
I don't know what you have for a tow vehicle but you may what to look into a front mount hitch receiver. I have a long driveway without enough space to maneuver the truck with a trailer back by the garage here at home as well as my home up north. Also the ramp I use every spring and fall is a one lane road down to the lake. I learned years ago when I worked at a marina the benifits of a front hitch. Dealing with 5 boats/trailers each year the hitch for me has been well worth the investment/installation. If you trailer your boat on a regular basis and put it into the garage each time it will make it very easy! With the steering wheels in the middle of the rig the maneuverability is unbelievable. You're facing forward and know exactly where you are going. This is really great if you've ever tried to back up a short trailer such as a PWC trailer. I'll rehitch the trailer to the front out on the road/street and then push it into the driveway, down the ramp or into the garage.

The first front receiver I had I welded up myself but now many are commercially available for many vehicles. receiver hitches

Regarding your trailer bearings, just keep a eye on the temp. They may get warm but shouldn't run hot to the touch. Final "seating" of the bearings/races is done with the spindle nut when you tighten it and then back it off. You should be fine.

Regarding the golden state, it just seems that every warning lable on any can always has the statement that the product contains something that causes cancer in the state of California. I keep reminding myself when dealing with any chemical that I'm lucky in don't live there!!!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2009 at 12:52pm
Pete,

No skin problems, but I just wanted to try to keep my hands clean. It is very hard being beautiful.

37N12,

As long as the races felt like they were not scratched or damaged you are OK. I just think that the punch is easier.

Donald
1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2009 at 1:05pm
I would really like to see pictures of the punches you guys are using.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2009 at 1:32pm


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2009 at 1:38pm
I know what plain old punch looks like Pete!

What kind of size are we talking here, length, tip diameter and shape...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2009 at 2:06pm
I believe this is what I always used. But maybe it was a 5/32 - 8" enstead will have to look in the tool box and check to know for sure

snap on punch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2009 at 2:20pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

I know what plain old punch looks like Pete!


Got it!! Sorry but now realize you were asking about what THEY were using!! I should have known better that you would know about the punch. Sorry again.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 37N122W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2009 at 4:13pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by 37N122W 37N122W wrote:

it's a bit of a trick getting in and out of our driveway


JJ,
I don't know what you have for a tow vehicle but you may what to look into a front mount hitch receiver.


Yeah, those front hitches are great. A couple of guys at the Yacht Club have them to get in and around the tight dry storage there. Our problem is more to do with the slope. The drivway drops away from the road and is really steep. If you don't angle it just right, you scrape the hell out of the bottom of your car, or in this case the trailer. Our last boat would scrape no matter what. This trailer has bigger tires and more clearence so if I get it just right, I can clear it with out scraping. Plus I'm on a blind curve so I need someone to watch for traffic while I slowly ease it out.

I have a hand truck thingy that I use to maneuver the boat once I get to the bottom of the hill. It works fine because it's all flat at that point. I'm going to punch out the back of the garage so it'll fit in there, too! Drives me nuts seeing it sitting there every day. I need to hide it in the garage so I can stop staring at it, day dreaming about being on the water!

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Regarding your trailer bearings, just keep a eye on the temp. They may get warm but shouldn't run hot to the touch. Final "seating" of the bearings/races is done with the spindle nut when you tighten it and then back it off. You should be fine.


Thanks, I'll keep an eye on them for sure. Your advise has been priceless!

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Regarding the golden state, it just seems that every warning lable on any can always has the statement that the product contains something that causes cancer in the state of California. I keep reminding myself when dealing with any chemical that I'm lucky in don't live there!!!


That's funny! We do have documented higher levels of autism and breast cancer than the rest of the country. Maybe it is the bearing grease...
"It never gets easier, you just go faster." Greg LeMond
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GeoB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-06-2021 at 7:31am
I learned years ago when I worked at a marina the benifits of a front hitch.

Wow! From a 11 year old discussion I read this. I had a front receiver installed and now I can make a turn that I needed and slide my boat into my garage with the spacing I want, and I did not hit anything.

Wow!!
Geo
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