Replacing trailer bearings on my 1988
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13211
Printed Date: May-09-2024 at 12:28am
Topic: Replacing trailer bearings on my 1988
Posted By: Pauly-Banana
Subject: Replacing trailer bearings on my 1988
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 1:11am
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I think that it might be a good idea to replace my trailer bearings on my 1988 diamond plate Correct Craft trailer before going to Green Lake! For years now I only trailer twice a year from storage to the launch ramp in the Spring and repeat this in the Fall. The trailer does sit in indoor storage all year round! I have added grease through the years, but wanted to know or get some input on brands of bearings. Maybe what to stay away from! What are the best places to purchase them and any helpful tips on installation. ------------- mailto:mrfurymn.8124@yahoo.com" rel="nofollow - Pauly-Banana http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4102&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - My 1983 Nautique <b |
Replies:
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 9:04am
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Pauly, I just replaced the bearings etc. on my trailer before I headed down to the St. Johns River Run. I got all the stuff at NAPA. I've got all the part #'s written down and will post here when I get home some time today or can just give you a holla' if you'd like. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 9:13am
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Here you go Pauly. I did bearings and brakes right before the river trip.
http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12688&PN=3 - Trailer Parts Sources ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 1:13pm
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I replaced my bearings on our 88 SN trailer a few times in a few years. I used parts from Napa, which was a bad choice. Could have been due to not fitting correctly or just cheap parts.
We take a trip each year about 2 hrs each way and when we got back they were SHOT! Last year, had some work done at a trailer shop and haven't had any problems. Just FYI, I had no luck with NAPA parts. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 3:08pm
Well I doubt it was actually NAPA's fault since they didn't manufacture the bearings, might have been a bad batch of bearings, but I would say that they either where not the correct bearings that needed to be used and/or they where installed incorrectly. I've put bearings on many a car, and trailers using what NAPA sells with out any issues or complaints or problems from customers, friends or using them myself. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
storm34 wrote:Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 3:18pm
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I suggest you inspect the bearing first then replace if needed. I also caution you to go just going by numbers someone else has used might be the same then again it might not be the same.
Jack it up, pull the tire pull the hub now take the bearing and with you fingers in the center of the inner race rotate the bearing against the outer race and feeling for rough spots, smoothness as it it rotated, if they are nice and smooth then clean them up and visually look at them and look for pitting on the rollers, in either case if they are rough riding against the race or there is pitting the they need replaced. Look at the back of the inner race then there should be a number stamped into it coppy that down and then cross reference that number if needed, don't forget to replace the oil seals and outer races as well, you can buy them as a matched pair, but sometimes they have to be bought seperately. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 3:19pm
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how did that happen
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 3:29pm
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I've never had any problems with NAPA bearings either. Bought the bearing w/races included, packed with good grease and installed correctly. No problem.
Get The GOOD STUFF. Edit: I agree with 79, clean and inspect, if ok, re-pack and re-install. ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 4:12pm
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I don't feel it was a NAPA problem ether. Now if you had gotten the bearings at Autozone, that's another story!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: scottb
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 4:22pm
| I have always had good luck with getting bearings/seals from http://www.championtrailers.com/ - Champion Trailers . |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 4:28pm
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I bought a "Redline" bearing/race/seal? kit a few years ago. I took a picture of the sticker that showed all the sizes of the pieces, but cannot find it now. I think you can get Timkens at Napa, which seem to be good. The Redline kit says made in China... :( I didn't know this when ordering online, I think it was from etrailer.com. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 4:44pm
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timken, and NTN are about as good as it gets bearing wise. Just match up the ones you have by the numbers on them when you order new ones. The issue is if you just go by ID then you maynot get the correct width or correct speed or load rating as the manufacturers will have several options with same ID & OD specs that are not interchangable due to loading and speeds requirements. And this may be the case why the bearings failed for the one guy. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 5:44pm
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Yeah, pay attention to both the ID as well. I had the guy at the local trailer shop pull some out and he only matched up the OD. The ID was bigger and they obviously didn't fit the spindle. My mistake for not looking at them myself, had to go back the next day. ------------- |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 6:23pm
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Ive found that napa usually stocks better parts than any other store. This summer I had to put a starter solenoid on the 86 and I got 2 bad ones in a row from advance so I went to napa and it looked like a much higher quality solenoid and go figure it started right up haha. Im getting ready to check out the bearings in my trailer after I get the boat all ready to rock because last year on the ride home from the lake one of them was alot hotter than the other(cant remember which side).
Storm either you got some bad bearings or you didnt pack them well and or didnt torque the bering nut correctly either to tight or to loose. I smoked 2 front hub assemblys on my dakota because they neglected to tell me there was a TSB out to torque them to 280 FT lbs instead of 180. They lasted about 150 miles each. I usually try to find timken bearings for whatever im working on. |
Posted By: Pauly-Banana
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 7:56pm
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I like the idea of buying the parts from NAPA, they are just down the road from me. Morfoot added that he would send me the part numbers, that would be great! I really appreciate all the help.
------------- mailto:mrfurymn.8124@yahoo.com" rel="nofollow - Pauly-Banana http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4102&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - My 1983 Nautique <b |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 8:28pm
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Pauly, does your trailer have one axle two? Just curious. ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 8:34pm
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Pauly,
I am planning on doing the same thing this weekend. This thread helped me alot. Donald  ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: Pauly-Banana
Date Posted: April-02-2009 at 10:41pm
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86BFN, I have a one axle trailer! I see that most of the California boats have two for obvious traffic and distance issues in finding lakes with good skiing conditions. It looks like most or many Barefoot Nautiques also have the dual axles. Donald keep me posted with tips on how it goes! ------------- mailto:mrfurymn.8124@yahoo.com" rel="nofollow - Pauly-Banana http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4102&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - My 1983 Nautique <b |
Posted By: skierbrant
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 2:03am
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This is great info. I've had my boat for almost 12 years and have never replaced the bearings. I've made several trips to Minnesota and Iowa and knock on wood, have never had a problem yet. I do add grease every year and I am always feeling the hubs when I stop to make sure they are not hot.
I need to replace the bearings before going to GL. I remember helping my dad probably 20 years or more ago changing his bearings but now I'm a little worried about not doing it right. Anyone have any good pictures of how to take the hub apart and removing and installing the bearings and seals? ------------- mailto:skierbrant@aol.com - Brant Augensen http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1536&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1989&yrend=1989 - My 89 Nautique |
Posted By: martin 74
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 2:51am
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Skierbrant
This link has some good pictures. I still need to do my bearing and was planning on using it. Rich http://webpages.charter.net/just1304/ - Trailer Bearing LInk |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 12:06pm
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http://www.planetnautique.com/index.php?name=News&file=article&sid=134 - Some of you may recognize this boat and trailer ------------- |
Posted By: 92NautiqueSNOB
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 12:38pm
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I re-did my entire single axle trailer (for 92 SNOB) last year and have had great success with the bearing kits ordered from redneck-trailer.com- they offer the single bearings if needed, but in my case, the better deal was to get the entire kit including races, bearings (inner & outer), grease seals-
I have tried bearings from NAPA before and they were OK...Give em a look- they have everything you'll need: http://www.redneck-trailer.com/2009/B/B42-B46.pdf ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3288 - 92 SNOB http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2336 - 1957 ATOM |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 1:18pm
WELL couple of thoughts, you really should use the right tool to drive in the races, very risky method suggested IMHO, and if they are not seated completely then they will loosen up and your sitting on the side of the road scratching your head. Go to the local auto parts store and rent the tool and do the job right. Secondly it really doesn't take twenty minutes to get the races out, there should be a slot/groove in the hub exposing a small section of the back side of the race, get a good punch and give it a coule good wacks and it'll pop out pretty quickly, 20 minutes is all the longer the whole job should take, not just getting the races out. TIP to get the rear seal out quickly and in tact, pop of the front bearing then with the hub still on the spinde screw the retaining nut back on, then slowly pull the hub forward untill the nut clears the race for the front bearing then let the hub drop a little so that is basicly drags on the top of the spindle until it stops, you've just catch the leading eadge of the rear bearing, now give it a good yank, pull down and towards you. The rear bearing and seal will be left on the spindle and the hubs ready for clean up and new races if needed. In a pinch you can use the method to pack the bearings, but it's much cleaner, and you can pack them better if you use the correct tool, clean them and then take them to a local alignment shop and the'll shot them full of grease for you pretty cheap if you don't want to buy the tool or have one all ready on hand. making sure the races are completely seated is very crittical if not then as you use the trailer they will seat themselves and loosen the preload on the bearing and then they'll turn to junk and snap the spindle before you know it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 1:26pm
Maybe its not the ideal method, but it clearly works if youre careful. That trailer has been made the trip from Chicago to Boston and back twice on the same set of bearings and they always ran COLD. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 1:44pm
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Tim it takes a lot longer to do the job and for someone that isn't all that handy it can get you into trouble very quickly. But then I only spend about 15 minutes a wheel start to finish and don't waiste twenty minutes geting a race out. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 2:14pm
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This ia a great thread as I'm going to have to replace my bearings if I'm going to drag the Mustang to Green Lake.
Has anybody dealt with an old #2 trailer. When we bought the Classic in November, I asked the PO to replace the bearings. When he got it apart, he said the bearings and hubs were an odd size, and while he could replace them, he recommended we do a new axel & hubs. He got them from Redneck Trailer and only charged me for parts, so it was a great deal. I'm wondering if I can just do the bearings on the Mustang trailer or if I'm looking at a whole new axel and hubs. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 2:29pm
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Bruce, that #2 should be a piece of cake. Axle and springs are oddball sizes, but the hubs and bearings are standard issue. From memory, theyre 1" inner and outer. For $35/ea, Id just get new hubs.
I did all 3 of my #2's last spring. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 2:36pm
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Tim, recieved, will go out USPS in the next day or so ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 2:41pm
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Awesome, thanks Eric! ------------- |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 2:53pm
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That would be great if I could do that. The hubs come all loaded and greased don't they? ------------- |
Posted By: skierbrant
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 5:04pm
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Thanks for the awesome information! The pictures are all great stuff. I will fell much more at ease now when changing my bearings! ------------- mailto:skierbrant@aol.com - Brant Augensen http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1536&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1989&yrend=1989 - My 89 Nautique |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 6:49pm
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Regarding my tutorial: That writeup was from a few years back. Since then I've learned quite a bit about maintaining boats and trailers. I'll still hold that it is an awesome writeup except for using a screwdriver to drive the bearing races in and out. My new technique is to take the hub to the trailer shop and have them swap the races out. They use an air chisel to hammer the old race out (talk about right tool for the job, 79. An Air Chisel), and a die to pound it back in. Takes them about 5 minutes to do it. No more ruined screwdrivers for me. Those things took forever to tap out, seriously. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 8:17pm
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Pauly and whoever else,
Okay here are the NAPA part #'s I have for replacement everything for a CC trailer. Inner Bearing 25580 Race 25520 Outer Bearing 15123 Race 15245 Oil Seal 47017 Hope this get's you started. I'd take pic's of the whole set but Kim has the main tow vehicle with her and the're in the back storage compartment. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Pauly-Banana
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 8:46pm
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I am so impressed with the response to my question! The members of CCF truely care about helping each other out! I would hate to see someone making the really long or short trek to a reunion or just the launch ramp and get stuck! It happened to me right out of the launch ramp about twenty years ago. Luckily I was able to get out of the way so that other boaters could launch their boats. I sold my origional 1983 trailer and upgraded to the 1988 Correct Craft trailer. I now have many ideas that will help me get to Green Lake safe and sound!
Thanks again! ------------- mailto:mrfurymn.8124@yahoo.com" rel="nofollow - Pauly-Banana http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4102&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - My 1983 Nautique <b |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 9:02pm
Pauly, this site seems to have a knack of drawing the best people. My first reunion was at the last St. John's river trip and there wasn't a single person I wouldn't have over for dinner or to spend the night. My boat runs and rides like it does because of the help I've received here. Just don't leave it unlocked at night?!!?  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-03-2009 at 9:19pm
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Based on the prices, I'd say both etrailer and championtrailer are selling the Redline Chinese bearings.
Based on Morfoot's data http://www.etrailer.com/p-BK3-110.htm - etrailer: BK3-110 $24.95 (single or double lip???) http://www.championtrailers.com/BEARINGS_RACES_SEALS/pages/11.html - championtrailer: #12 $21.95 (double lip inner seal) I used the BK3-310 kit, which basically just uses a smaller outer bearing, LM67048, the race is .113" smaller in outside diameter. The kit was like $3 cheaper because of it. Both sides made it to Green Lake and back 3 times, Clinton and back once, and one side even went down to Alabama and back to pick up Magicman's Hurricane. I would go with the 15123 outer bearing size to be safe that the race won't be spinning on you. I just googled a Timken 15123 and it's $18 alone! Go to NAPA though and buy something made in the USA! ------------- |
Posted By: Pauly-Banana
Date Posted: April-04-2009 at 1:49am
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I'm just printing out a set of instructions and pictures on how to service wheel bearings. Boy the pictures are awsome and clear! What would you recommend for brand of grease to use? I remember using the old style (goldish looking tan color), but I would guess that they have improved on that stuff for a higher temperature rating. ------------- mailto:mrfurymn.8124@yahoo.com" rel="nofollow - Pauly-Banana http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4102&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985" rel="nofollow - My 1983 Nautique <b |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: April-04-2009 at 12:55pm
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FYI the bearigs I purchased from NAPA (SKF) were made in mexico. the seals also SKF were made in the USA. I've had no problems. Better than freakin' china IMO.
I used Castrol GTX marine grease. I'm guessing any quailty name brand grease would work fine. Steve ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: April-05-2009 at 2:27am
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I stand corrected!!
My guess is that my seals were bad because I lost lots of the packing and the bearings were not just pitted but completely destroyed! Great info...this thread will be bookmarked! ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-06-2009 at 12:13pm
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joel and air chissel is a bit much but oh well a nice heavy round tipped punch and hammer always did the trick, never really seen anyone use a press to install them, but we always had the driver for the races sitting on the work bench and it took more time to jack with press than to use the driver and a hammer. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-06-2009 at 12:59pm
Double-lipped inner seals. Now I'm not sure how much the marketing folks got their hands on "marine" water insoluble grease, but since it's going directly in and out of the water I'll buy it. ------------- |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: April-06-2009 at 8:35pm
Pauly, I did mine on Saturday with the help from this thread. I used a long (9" approx") punch that had a little flat tip. I used it to remove the races. One of my hubs had the two groves like Chris 79 spoke of, but the other hub did not. One Hub must of been a replacement. Heck I fund it harder to get the Oil Seal off than the races. I also damaged one new Oil Seal pressing it into the hub. Another trip to the parts store. I used the old races to help push the new races into place. Just remember to flip the old race so that you can push it back out from the other side. If you place them taper to taper, you will not be able to get the old pusher race out easily. You will have to once again push both out. I knew this and still did it wrong on one hub. Basically, place the back of the old race to the front tapper of the new one that is in place. The hardest part was grabbing everything will grease on the rubber gloves. I did not have a work bench with a vice. If I had one of those it would of been a whole lot easier than chasing it on the concrete floor. I hope this helps, Donald  ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-06-2009 at 10:19pm
Donald, I'm just wondering if you have a allergic skin reaction with grease? I saw the gloves in the tutorial and wondered about him too. Under normal conditions there really isn't anything in grease that will hurt you. (unless you live in the state of California!) Vaseline is petroleum "jelly" - IE: grease. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 37N122W
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 1:15am
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I just did this job on my trailer a month or so ago. I haven't been able to test drive it yet (it's a bit of a trick getting in and out of our driveway) and now you all have me paranoid that I set the races wrong! I used the screw driver method posted on the thread on the other site. I double checked that they were all the way in and flush and even and all that... If I did it wrong, will I know it by feeling hub for heat after a couple minutes at highway speed?
Is there something I should know about the grease here in the Golden State? It's always nice and slick and smooth...  ------------- "It never gets easier, you just go faster." Greg LeMond |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 10:10am
JJ, I don't know what you have for a tow vehicle but you may what to look into a front mount hitch receiver. I have a long driveway without enough space to maneuver the truck with a trailer back by the garage here at home as well as my home up north. Also the ramp I use every spring and fall is a one lane road down to the lake. I learned years ago when I worked at a marina the benifits of a front hitch. Dealing with 5 boats/trailers each year the hitch for me has been well worth the investment/installation. If you trailer your boat on a regular basis and put it into the garage each time it will make it very easy! With the steering wheels in the middle of the rig the maneuverability is unbelievable. You're facing forward and know exactly where you are going. This is really great if you've ever tried to back up a short trailer such as a PWC trailer. I'll rehitch the trailer to the front out on the road/street and then push it into the driveway, down the ramp or into the garage. The first front receiver I had I welded up myself but now many are commercially available for many vehicles. http://www.trailerhitches.com/?source=msadcenter&kwid=front%20mount%20trailer%20hitch&match=e - receiver hitches Regarding your trailer bearings, just keep a eye on the temp. They may get warm but shouldn't run hot to the touch. Final "seating" of the bearings/races is done with the spindle nut when you tighten it and then back it off. You should be fine. Regarding the golden state, it just seems that every warning lable on any can always has the statement that the product contains something that causes cancer in the state of California. I keep reminding myself when dealing with any chemical that I'm lucky in don't live there!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 12:52pm
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Pete,
No skin problems, but I just wanted to try to keep my hands clean. It is very hard being beautiful. 
37N12, As long as the races felt like they were not scratched or damaged you are OK. I just think that the punch is easier. Donald ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 1:05pm
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I would really like to see pictures of the punches you guys are using. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 1:32pm
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 1:38pm
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I know what plain old punch looks like Pete!
What kind of size are we talking here, length, tip diameter and shape... ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 2:06pm
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I believe this is what I always used. But maybe it was a 5/32 - 8" enstead will have to look in the tool box and check to know for sure
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=73717&group_ID=1034&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog - snap on punch ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 2:20pm
Got it!! Sorry but now realize you were asking about what THEY were using!! I should have known better that you would know about the punch. Sorry again. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 37N122W
Date Posted: April-07-2009 at 4:13pm
Yeah, those front hitches are great. A couple of guys at the Yacht Club have them to get in and around the tight dry storage there. Our problem is more to do with the slope. The drivway drops away from the road and is really steep. If you don't angle it just right, you scrape the hell out of the bottom of your car, or in this case the trailer. Our last boat would scrape no matter what. This trailer has bigger tires and more clearence so if I get it just right, I can clear it with out scraping. Plus I'm on a blind curve so I need someone to watch for traffic while I slowly ease it out. I have a hand truck thingy that I use to maneuver the boat once I get to the bottom of the hill. It works fine because it's all flat at that point. I'm going to punch out the back of the garage so it'll fit in there, too! Drives me nuts seeing it sitting there every day. I need to hide it in the garage so I can stop staring at it, day dreaming about being on the water!
Thanks, I'll keep an eye on them for sure. Your advise has been priceless!
That's funny! We do have documented higher levels of autism and breast cancer than the rest of the country. Maybe it is the bearing grease... ------------- "It never gets easier, you just go faster." Greg LeMond |
Posted By: GeoB
Date Posted: October-06-2021 at 7:31am
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I learned years ago when I worked at a marina the benifits of a front hitch. Wow! From a 11 year old discussion I read this. I had a front receiver installed and now I can make a turn that I needed and slide my boat into my garage with the spacing I want, and I did not hit anything. Wow!! ------------- Geo |