Replaced the Pro-Tec system

81nautique wrote: horkn wrote: 81nautique wrote: And just my opinion but I think your signature bash on Correct Craft is in poor taste. If anything you drew attention to it so that I realized I had a fat finger typo. It is fixed now. I'm not gonna argue with you but when I read your signature I read "No Class". You could change that in a second but that's up to you. Goodbye.

Perception alters reality. My statement is not a bash, and never was intended on being one.

I am sure you understand as well as I do that these boats take a lot of time and $$.

It is too bad you wanted to get off on the wrong foot.

I am sure I will see your boat sometime in WI, as most of the boats in IL end up in WI at some point. So I really don't think a goodbye is necessary.

Also, I like this site a lot since it is pretty much the only site for older nautiques. So I won't be going anywhere.

Hey 81

Congrats on your boat being selected as the feature boat. Very nice job.

Especially like the silver screen surround is it just polished aluminium or anodised.

81nautique wrote: horkn wrote: It STILL is price gouging. I looked last night in Summit's catalog, and the marine 4160 in the same cfm range was 200 dollars more than the automotive one. Now I wonder why the marinized versions of the edelbrock carbs are not much more than the auto ones. Maybe Edlebrock isn't into gouging as bad? I actually understand Holley carbs though, unlike edelbrock carbs. Could be because they probably build and sell a ratio of 100:1 auto versus marine carbs. Maybe you're right and they're gouging but the choice is yours to buy either brand so why complain about something you can't change? And just my opinion but I think your signature bash on Correct Craft is in poor taste. If the newbie with the picture of the hot babe had to change his then yours should surely go too.

I am not really familiar with edelbrocks, so I went and found a local carb guru and I got a marine like new holley for a lot less than either a new edelbrock or holley marine carb.


I love my CC. I spent a ton of hours and $$ making it how I wanted it, but I surely was not happy to find that the battery box drain was glassed nearly completely closed from the factory. Beside that flaw, it has been very good to me outside of normal maintenace on a boat that is 30 years old this year. I am sure you can appreciate that.

If anything you drew attention to it so that I realized I had a fat finger typo. It is fixed now.

horkn wrote: So do you have a flame arrestor on the boat now?

The flame arrestor has never been removed. I've simply concealed it's unsightlyness with a finned aluminum cover. The boat is fully USCG compliant.

Hi

The marine one is brass and the car one is steel.

The brass one only looks good because of a wire wheel. The car one was cleaned with a wire wheel too, didn't clean up as good though.

Keno

Hi
I'm hoping there is a picture attached here.

It shows a 600 Holley marine carb primary throttle shaft on the right. It has 3 grooves at either end where it rides in the throttle plate, no seals. It acts like a labyrinth seal. The other is a non marine 390 Holley, just a smooth shaft.

It took me way longer to get the picture and get it on here than it did to get the shaft out to show the difference.

Keno

horkn wrote: For the carburetor, the marine version is really only differentiated by the tubes, which can be bought at DIM for 8 bucks. Why Holley charges over a hundred dollars more for a marinized carb compared to the same street carb, I don't know. Price gouging I guess is the only answer.

WRONG!!!!! The throttle plate shafts are splined and sealed to prevent fuel leakage through them and out of the body of the carb. Auto versions don't have this feature. You really think that changing a vent tube automatically makes a carb a marine version?

79nautique wrote: my question would be how you are planning on addressing the wiring hraness changes? the dist is a no brainer, but needs to be compatable with the ECU's logic.

I'm not quite understanding you. With the ProTec system there is a knock sensor and a rev limiter. I talked to SkiDim about the wiring harness used with the Mallory dist. and it was explained to me that the knock sensor is left in place as a dummy with no wire going to it. I don't have a knock sensor nor a rev limiter, but I plan to add an MSD ignition module that has one in the near future. All other gauges and audible alarms function as normal.

I used the factory wire harness with only a few easy modifications.

I unwrapped the factory harness and removed the wire for the knock sensor. I did this because I wanted a "clean" installation without any unconnected terminals. I removed the knock sensor replacing it with a brass plug.

I took the loom of wires that leads to the ECU and removed them from the harness. The only wire I cut was that for the tach lead. The factory tach lead is molded into the ECU.

Following the wiring diagram for the ProTech system I located the tach lead which is a gray wire if I remember correctly. I cut that wire at the ECU module leaving enough length on the engine side to solder a terminal that would attach to the coil. I installed a keyed-hot lead from the 50A breaker terminal to the coil. I used the same keyed-hot terminal that the ECU/coil pack was powered by; again using the ProTec wiring diagram. The MSD coil is now wired to the same power souce as the ProTec coils.

Once the ProTech system is removed the harness looks very similar to that of earlier CC's. At least by looking at the diagrams available for download.

I mounted the coil on the bracket originally used for the ECU/coil pack with a billet mount from Rex Marine. Mine is polished, if I had it to do over again I'd opt for red anodized.

The whole installation took about two hours one evening after work. I spent more time re-wrapping the harness and tucking it away neatly inside corrugated loom. My soldered terminals are sealed with shrink tubing.

Actually I spent more time diagnosing the ProTec system than I did replacing it.

Hey eklock, can you post the parts list you used to replace the protech?
I'm looking at replacing the protech as well. It's $400 from skidim (with that nice 10 percent discount from here!) but I wanted to see if it was cheaper to build it myself from the local performance shop that specializes in marine apps, etc.    Wait for it.. wait for it... I hear 79nautique ready to chime in right? (only jokes, you have great input always!)

GottaSki wrote: eklock wrote: They assured me that the only difference between the 460 and 351w distributors was the drive gears. I have yet to verify this but they seem to be confident in their statement. I got confirmation of this from a guru on a pantera forum, they know cleveland/windsor swaps as well as anyone.

Is the 351W drive gear you're refering to for a reverse rotating engine? If not you maight be back to square one.

eklock wrote: They assured me that the only difference between the 460 and 351w distributors was the drive gears. I have yet to verify this but they seem to be confident in their statement.

I got confirmation of this from a guru on a pantera forum, they know cleveland/windsor swaps as well as anyone.

geez

eklock wrote: DNR? Not sure what that is. USCG, I've never been on a Federally patrolled body of water. Sorry for causing all of the upheaval over this issue.

eklock, what we're trying to convey here is a few different things. The USCG sets regulations and standards on marine vehicles that require specially modified distibutors, alternators, starters, fuel pumps and carburators. The boat left the factory meeting those standards. You could be easily pulled over and stopped for a safety check at any time while operting your boat by the DNR on any body of water that the USCG doesn't patrol. I've personally been stopped numerous times. They normally check for adequate life preservers, fire extinguisher, driver drinking etc. They can also look at the engine and if there is a knowledgable ranger that knows what he's looking at, he can tell if your boat has been modified and that it still meets or doesn't meet USCG safety standards. If it doesn't, you can be required to make any appropriate changes to make it legal on top of a fine.

Now the bigger concern is the safety for you, your passengers and family. These standards aren't put out there so the USCG can be a**holes. They have a purpose. The biggest one of which is fire prevention in a marine vessel. I've said before that a fuel leak from a fuel pump or carb in a car just runs onto the road and evaporates away. A fuel leak in a boat dumps into the bildge and just sits there waiting for a spark from a dist. alternator or starter. If that happens, let me tell you that a 19' SN can go up in flames in seconds. Not a pretty sight. There are numerous guys that have put regular auto parts on boats and haven't had issues and maybe never will. How important is that $100 extra that you saved by not buying a marine dist. when your boat is engulfed in flames? Or worse yet, if somebody gets hurt or dies? Here's another thing. If you have a really good insurance agent who knows his stuff, and upon inspection of a boat disaster notices that aftermarket non-conforming parts were put in the boat, they could easily deny your claim.

Granted, these are worse case scenarios, but entirely possible. Using USCG certified carbs and fuel pumps help prevent the fuel from getting in the bilge first. If it still does happen, USCG approved distributors, alternators and starters prevent the spark to ignite that fuel. Nothing is foolproof, but why add to your chances to save a few hundred bucks?

DNR? Not sure what that is. USCG, I've never been on a Federally patrolled body of water.

Sorry for causing all of the upheaval over this issue.

Not quite the same, but if one were to pack the cap vent with brass wool it would limit the limit the risk of vapor ignition. The trick is keeping the wool in the vent and not falling down upon the rotor.