96 SN EFI well after warm up problem

KENO wrote: Nothing at all wrong with Permatex 2. Glad things are good right now Be optimistic and tell yourself the water is from the water pump seal leaking

It's possible that after I saw the water, I lowered the lift back down and ran it a bit and maybe possibly saw dripping from the RWP.

96SNEFI wrote: The intertubes is a fickle thing. I've read elsewhere to not use teflon plumbing tape on fuel fittings. I found some Permatex #2 on hand and used that.

Keep an eye on that fitting for a while. Permatex #2 only "resists gasoline, oil and grease" per their site. Teflon tape is rated ".A-Excellent" resistance.

I have a feeling what you found regarding not using tape on fuel fittings refers to flare and compression fittings?

8122pbrainard wrote: 96SNEFI wrote: What is the pipe sealant used on these fittings? I'm guessing not plumbing teflon tape...unless that could be used? Teflon tape would be my choice. There's not many things that will attack it and gas will not. I'm not aware of any pipe thread compound that will not be affected by gas. Blue Monster maybe.

The intertubes is a fickle thing. I've read elsewhere to not use teflon plumbing tape on fuel fittings. I found some Permatex #2 on hand and used that.

So the update:
The saga seems to have ended. I just ran about 6 miles straight with a couple idle speeds and up to 4K and 3500 and 3K and back and forth revs...nary a miss (that I could detect).
It would indeed seem that a little bit of some unknown fluff and some slightly built-up gunk in the screen caused all of this. Perhaps not even to do with being warm but that was a pretty good test run that did NOT repeat the problem.

I did not detect any leakage at the fitting with the #2 goop.

It would seem that the coil was coincidental with this issue and that it was probably unnecessary to replace the distributor. Oh well.

Next year I'll put that thermostat back in and see what the temperature does while hot and running. I probably have some other issues (like water having unknowingly been spraying in the doghouse and wetting the carpet on the outside starboard side during this run). I suspect I probably have one or more cracked heads...but no water evidence in the oil yet.

Thank you everybody for your patience and input and ideas.

Gary S wrote: I personally would leave the screen out. There is another screen in the low pressure pump,it will be good enough to catch any junk. When you remove the pump from its bracket the top of the pump can be taken off by removing the mounting studs. The screen is under it. 95’s and I think some 96’s had a throw away fuel filter mounted just before the LP pump as well,it might be a good idea

Well yeah...there's that honkin' big filter inside the FCC that wraps around the little pump inside of it. Oughtn't that to do all the filtering requirements? Or does the fuel really need to be filtered before it hits the outer pump?

Ok. So I got the check valve or anti-siphon valve or ball valve off the hose connection...that other little brass piece attached to the tank attachment that a picture somewhere indicated. Undoing the clamp allowed the fitting to turn inside the hose.

Luckily the little screen fell out to somewhere where I happened to see it. I take the thing off and look inside yup a check valve. Looking around oh look at that a little screen.
There was some fibrous-ish looking material in it but I wouldn't say it was much or clogged. The screen itself had some other lightly caked material that maybe could restrict flow. Maybe the fibrous stuff and the material are enough?

What is the pipe sealant used on these fittings? I'm guessing not plumbing teflon tape...unless that could be used? It seems sorta like plumbers putty.

I tried to get the tank fitting off. Was able to un-do the larger nut but I don't know how the 90° thing comes out. I can move it slightly left to right but I don't know how it attaches.

Can I place the screen inside the recipient end and then screw in the brass check valve fitting? Would that crush and mangle the screen? Or would they figure each other out? The screen fits very nicely inside the check valve side sticking out about 1/4". But it doesn't want to stay there upon attempting to screw it in.

Thanks for the continuing help on this long drawn out saga.

96SNEFI wrote: Hoary crap! Iirc the anti-siphon and pick up are top front center. Do I have to pull the whole shebang out?

Bite the bullet...pull the tank out. Do it right. And while you're at it.....it's a good time for rudder maintenance as mentioned above. As long as the tank is out, it may be a good time to change-out your fuel sending unit (particularly if the original unit is still in the tank). Some guys here may disagree about replacing certain parts before they fail, but since getting the tank out is such a bugger, you can take advantage of the opportunity. Fuel sending units are not too expensive and can be kinda fickle as to when they decide to fail.

JQ

On my '95 SN I found it easier to slide the whole thing out.
That would also be a good time to repack the rudder while the tank is slid forward.

Remove the filler neck (the chrome part) out of the hose it will make life soooo much easier.

KENO wrote: You got that last sentence "not quite right" It should be "I'll update the saga whether I'm successful or not, so you guys can keep trying to help if I need it" I think you just might find the issue in the fuel system

Yer right! I will either way.
I'm more than a little worried that I might break something plastic so we'll see how I feel when I'm looking at it.

MrMcD wrote: Keno, nice write ups.   Your tips should get him back in action. You seem to have full access to old threads. I was trying last night to go back and find the threads from my repair in 2014 and could not find them. Searching google and this site no luck. It looks like our information is not stored forever but drops off after about 2 years?

I most always use Google to search the site, there's no time frame involved.

You can find stuff all the way back to the beginning of CCF.

Sometimes you have to be stubborn, pigheaded, try a million different key words to search for and then just plain get lucky

Here's one of your first ones in the link down below Mark. I searched "correctcraftfan MrMcD first post" and after about way too many minutes of clicking on the different results came up with what's in the link Actually I think it was the first since you joined on 1/18/14 at 6:41 PM and wrote the post in the link the same day at 7:11 PM

It also says you joined with a different user name originally which might make it a real challenge finding that very first post unless you remember the original user name

link

Keno, nice write ups.   Your tips should get him back in action.
You seem to have full access to old threads. I was trying last night to go back and find the threads from my repair in 2014 and could not find them. Searching google and this site no luck. It looks like our information is not stored forever but drops off after about 2 years?

KENO wrote: And here's another link with some info link And if you follow the links in the linked thread above you'll find a thread started by you in 2014 asking about accessing the valve and screen. It doesn't say if you ever checked them though

I went about wanting to check all that but with the age and the plastic tank and the hose that didn't want to reasonably come off...I didn't want to break things and make the job bigger so I gave up. At least I have a better idea of what it looks like as a reminder after all this time.
Drooping shoulders and head, shuffling off with defeat...ok fine...I'll have at it again :) If it breaks stuff then the season is over anyway.
It seems then that the GT40 book is wrong if the SWITCH is the one at the pump and not whatever that is up top that it says. Or again...I misinterpreted. Not the first time.

Aengenend: I think I would prefer just replacing the pump. But I'll be looking at the tank parts before then. I don't really want to have gas everywhere but there it is.

Thanks again KENO and your input Aengenend. I won't be doing this until next week sometime. Not even testing the other water sensor switch unplugged. But no, I don't think I'm getting limp mode from all this.

And here's another link with some info

link

And if you follow the links in the linked thread above you'll find a thread started by you in 2014 asking about accessing the valve and screen.

It doesn't say if you ever checked them though

I think I'd put the thermostat back in and get a fuel pressure gauge for a fuel injected engine. It'll have the right fittings supplied with it.

Also check the anti siphon valve like mentioned. It's pretty easy to find right where the fuel line connects to the tank. Don't stop there though, pull out the suction line from the tank and see if it's plugged up with junk.

You'll read various different things about whether there's a screen at the bottom of the line in the tank. The only way to know what you have is to pull it and look at it and ensure the line and the anti siphon valve are both clear. If there's no screen junk just gets sucked up the line and plugs the anti siphon valve

It's given plenty of people fits because they didn't check the line and valve and instead they replaced one or both fuel pumps and didn't resolve their problem till they eventually got to looking at the valve and suction line.

So in big capital letters .....CHECK THE VALVE AND THE SUCTION LINE IN THE TANK

The pumps aren't gonna have good discharge pressure if the suction side is restricted

You can find specs for fuel pressure in the manual on page 4-1

Gary S wrote: 96SNEFI wrote: Disconnected water temperature switch on top forward starboard with the two wires. This has me wondering. Do you have any pictures? The water temp sensor your looking for only has 1 wire....... This is what it should look like

Thanks for asking for clarification.
The GT40 book indicated it's the one up top, not the one on the top of the water pump. I read somewhere here that it's the 2-wire one. The 2-wires attach to the same post. The water pump one had one light tan wire.
Or I completely misunderstood something. Not the first time.