engine bogging down no power

As far as doing the carb myself I knew a guy who did it for me. I brought him carb and kit for $70 he rebuilt, glass beaded the inside and painted for a true professional job. So kit and labor I was into it for 120 compared to 500 brand new. I did fuel pump to just to take care of almost all fuel delivery. I would pay to have it done rite all day if you dont know what your doing. Check your fuel water/separater if havent done yet.

I do have new plugs, wires, cap and rotor (mine is not a points type, it's a prestolite with the electronic ignition). Also, a new fuel filter, the inline type mine doesn't have a water separator.

Doing the above tune up did improve the overall performance a little. The boat got a little more power and a slightly faster top end. It seemed to make the stumble a little less, but didn't make it go away.

The timing is a little suspect. It's advanced to 13 degrees, but bringing it back to the recommended 10 seemed to worsen matters.

Actually, correction, bringing the timing back to 10 degrees worsened matters before I replaced the spark plugs and everything. And, I had a wacky assortment of different plugs in there previously, as mentioned here: Different Plugs Post

Do you think that now that I have the right plugs, bringing the timing down to 10 degrees might improve things?

Thanks Peter,

I've checked for a squirt, and I do get one. But it could be that it's coming in late. I haven't gotten a chance to adjust it or look at that aspect of it carefully.

Aside from adjusting the little spring thing that hits the pump lever, which is still a possibility, are there are other adjustments that can be made? Any other aspect of the carb that could be at fault? Would a faulty power valve do this?

My issue is like a stumble when you try to accelerate quickly. It's mostly off idle, but I've noticed it can happen when quickly accelerating from one speed to a higher speed, even from 1500 rpms or so.

Full throttle is fine, and if you accelerate easy, it's fine. If you punch it though, such as to get a big slalom skier out of the water, it will hesitate, if it's not totally warmed up, it can hesitate pretty badly.

Also, idles and starts up hot and cold fine.

Just got the New carb from Holley yesteraday.I plan on putting it on tonight.Will let you guys know what happens.Just for your information,Holley sent me a notice in which you can go on the interent at www.holleytv.com.It gives you a video guide on how to tune your carb.It shows you everything you need to know.When you get to the site just click on "carb tuning" and it has multiple videos on what you need to know when tuning your carb.

71RR,

How hard would you say it is to do the carb renew kit?

My boat has a hesitation and I'm on the fence between doing a renew kit or getting a whole new carb.

I know I could remove and replace the carb without much trouble. So, I was thinking it would make sense to just replace it for a little extra verses paying someone to rebuild it.

Would you put rebuilding it at a beginner level, intermediate, expert? The more I read about 4160s, the more complicated it looks. Do you need and special tools or chemicals?

I think the Fram people use the same marketing people as do the Jiffy Lubes....change your oil every 3000

Bri892001 wrote: Actually, when did boat motors stop needing led? I know you were talking to the other Brian, but figured I'd fill in.

First you need to know that lead was never meant to be a lubricant for internal parts of your typical engine. Lead was added as a octane booster to gas but it was found to also be beneficial to lubricating valve guides and cushioning valve seats. When the EPA banned the lead from the gas, the chemical companies marketing guys took over and created a lead "substitute" and sold it to the public!!! There is no such thing as a lead substitute and the stuff in the bottle doesn't do any good.

I'd like to take a step backwards in time - Marine fuel used to be "white gas". This is straight run gas from the refinery without any additives whatsoever. All the low compression engines ran fantastic on this low octane fuel plus it was the only gas you would find at the gas pier. These old engines ran without any hardened valve guides nor any hardened valve seats. Low octane but no additives!! White gas can still be found as a camp stove/lantern fuel. No additives to plug up the lamp mantels or the stoves orifices.

Run the engine and don't spend the $$ on "snake oil in a bottle". When the time comes for a top end job on the engine then you can decide what to do with the guides/seats. Some have chosen not to go with a rather expensive upgrade because their machine shop didn't feel it was worth the extra cost!!

All my boats as well as many friends I have though the ACBS have been running unleaded for years without issues!!

As mentioned, the other Brian got suckered into buying the stuff!! High mark up/profit for the retailer at the store or at the gas pump dock!!

EDIT: I forgot to comment about the Fram. Do a CCfan search on "Fram" and plenty of info comes up including links to in depth /cut open research on how bad they really are. The guy using the remote filter must have been paid to screw that Fram on there!!!   

Brian,
That's fantastic news on the carb. Sometimes things do work out for the better. However you'll be with out the boat for awhile. What did they tell you about the turn around time?

No opinions on the lead substitute? Maybe my comment about the Fram filter got to you? Don't tell me, you're a closet Fram filter user!!

That's awesome news.

Let us know how it runs after you install the new one.

metering blocks are available but not part of any kit I've seen.

water sitting in the fuel bowl is what ate up the plate, not the subsitute or ethanol in the gas.

I subspect this boat has sat for some time resently in it's life.

Any chance of snapping a pic or two of the train wreck?

I'm curious as to why the metering block would be eaten up and even more so how to avoid it happening to me.

I'm not familure with the led addative. I've heard it was to lubricate the valve guides on older engines, but no one I know runs it on old stuff. Any chance it is addative related?

Just to get back with an update,I did check the fuel pressure on the pump and it was 7 lbs as you ask 79.As for Tim's suggestion about the power valve and I know 79 thought that it probably was'nt the problem.I did talk with Richard at SKIDIM today an ask there opinion.He also said fuel pump but that doesn't seem to be the problem.He also did say to check the power valves to see if they were blown.He said to turn the mixture screws all the way in to see if the engine dies.If it does then the power valves are good.I tried it tonight and found that the engine does did not die on me which leads me to believe this might be the problem.If anyone else has an comment or suggestion I would sure like to hear it.

I have a 71 stang with a 302 and am having the same exact problem you are. I bought a new fuel pump and 4160 re-new kit of course with the new carb and spacer gaskets. Im gonna tackle it tomm afternoon my boat does it more often when its underload as well. Sometimes it will run just fine when not in gear. Im pretty sure its the fuel pump but Im not gonna play around and do it all for piece of mind. Oh and the renew kit comes with new powervalves from skidim.