77 graphics resto update

The masking paper roll is called Frisket. If you can find a sign shop or even better a supplier of vinyl ask them for transfer paper. Then you get to pick your width up to I think 42", and length is kind of already determined. Stick with the paper type. Theres also a plastic type. Ive had some paint bleed through the edges with it. Bad.

ThreadJack!!

Andy, are you coming to Green Lake, don't remember if I saw your name on the sign up???

Wow and what they said, luv the stands!

I have talent envy...I'd never free hand those curves; I build a jig for almost everything.

Mojo, no clear. the Rust-oleum yelds a excelent shine right off the get go. Go over everything with the 3M Finesse It using a buffer with a good quality wool pad and it looks like you laid 3 coats of clear over the entire boat. All of the pictures i posted so far there is no wax on it yet! going to do that today. As far as techinque with the air brush, all i can say is that i have never used one before this project and i was intimidated but i figured i would give it a go knowing that if it didnt turn out good i could go back over it with the blue. I thinned the black down till it almost dripped like water off the stir stick and played around with the settings on the brush and air pressure until it looked about right, crossed my fingers and just did it. Other than a good steady hand there is really nothing to it.

Yup, got it. I will put the check in the mail first thing Monday. Thanks again for everything. Have a great 4th!!

This will be the second paint job on my 1977 Nautique (I gave the first re-paint in 1987). It has the Blue lettering with black shadowing as well, and the black shadow was way easier than I thought it would be. I bought an inexpensive air brush and, with the decals obviously still on, just gently traced around the edges on all lettering and lines - sides and back - just as it came from the factory. It looked absolutely the same. Correct Craft told me they used Rustoleum as factory paint so that's what I used.

Merritt,
I'd have to say that both the vinyl and paint are equal but don't worry as it won't be a yearly job. Both the paint and vinyl is affected by UV. The best vinyls are guaranteed for 7 years. That's 7 full years out in the sun so on a boat it may last 3 times that. Best protection when the boat isn't being used is a full past the waterline cover. The transom is the area that really gets the worst sun. Even a boat in a boathouse will get damage from the sun. The sunlight reflects off the water and comes up under the door. I cover my woods even when in the boathouse.

Vinyl has a slight advantage when it comes to dock damage/abrasion.

I'd go with the paint - It's original!!!!

merrittarnold wrote: Sounds good to me. Is it best to completely remove the old graphics first? I can tell these aren't original.

Yes as long as you have the tracings needed for your sign shop to make ether the mask for paint on th vinyl. You want a decent clean surface to apply ether.

Jeff,

I love your work. Where did you get the Rub Rail? Is it a Taco Rub Rail? I do not see the Rope Rub Rail on the Taco Web-site. Maybe you just use the rope instead of the plastic insert. Even looking at it that way I am not sure about which one to use. Do you have the part number for what you have?

Beautiful Boat.

Thanks,

Donald

Pete, the rope rub rail may not be original on Jeff's '77, but it sure would be on Donald's '80!

Merritt, I dont believe there are any differences in the graphics from '77 to '79. Jeff's pictures in this thread are your best guide. There are no templates available unless you want to spend $550 on the vinyl reproductions. Just trace your original lettering. If youre not sure if its original, post a picture and we can tell you.

Donald, I can't recall the part # and the box is long gone but if you call Woody @ the former Southeast Correct Craft (now a Master Craft dealer....bummer) he can get you what you need. That's where I got mine from. It was a kit. Came with 50' rail, more than enough rope and a ton of stainless screws. Oh and if you go with the rope, I used Woodys suggestion and used a piece of 1/2" copper pipe with a notch cut out of it to clear the screws and some silicone spray to install the rope. I had never installed rope before, maybe there is a better way, but it went in like a dream for me.

I used Woodys suggestion and used a piece of 1/2" copper pipe with a notch cut out of it to clear the screws and some silicone spray to install the rope. I had never installed rope before, maybe there is a better way, but it went in like a dream for me. [/QUOTE]

Jeff,

Thanks and can you give just a little more explaination about the notch cut into the 1/2" Copper Tube. I know that some of the guys have used the Copper Tube with some soapy water with great success, but I am assuming that that 1/2" size is the ID of the Tube. I know that the guys recommend going back with 1/2" Size Rope instead of the 5/8" that came orginal. This is due to the rubber now being hard over time.

How long does this tube need to be or does it matter? I am thinking three inches long. I do not unstand the notch that is cut. I understand that you will see or run into screws to hold the rub rail to the finerglass, but do you run the notch the entire length of the cooper tube so that it looks like a letter " C" but not that big of a notch? Then you align the opening on the screws and push the rope all the way around. If you could post a picture of your Cooper Tube Tool that would be very helpful.

Within the next few weeks, I am going to replace my rope. I want to replace the entire Rub Rail maybe next Winter.

Thanks,

Donald

I don,t know if my first post went through but boat looks great what color blue did you use

Hey Jeff,
Are you still posting? I wanted to check your brain about this thread.
Tom

Uhhh oooo Tom has the retso bug!