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77 graphics resto update

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14167
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 3:53pm


Topic: 77 graphics resto update
Posted By: 77 nautique
Subject: 77 graphics resto update
Date Posted: June-26-2009 at 12:48am
Well i figured i would post some pics of progress. I want to thank Pete and Tim for making me think twice about not doing the shadow. Very Very glad i did. I also have new Correct Craft emblems on the way from Stan. One little problem i ran into though is the Correct Craft "Since 1925" decals i ordered from Woody at the former Southeast Correct Craft are too small. The origional was 5" wide by 7" tall. Any ideas wher I can locate the larger ones?



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-26-2009 at 10:33am
Jeff,
I have the larger ones! I had to have them reproduced after I ran into the same problem - wouldn't cover up the virgin color of the gel. There's a couple threads on the whole process. You can do a "since 1925" search and read up on it.

I absolutely think the boat is looking fantastic! Yes, that shadow on the graphics sure stands out! Plus, very original!!!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: June-26-2009 at 10:41am
Yes that black outline looks awesome and pete gives it the original thumbs up what a bonus.

The trolley boat stands are a piece of work as well.

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Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: June-26-2009 at 2:53pm
That really looks good. I need to do the same. What method did you use? Is that painted on or some kind of overlay?

Boat looks new!!


Posted By: Mark Mel
Date Posted: June-26-2009 at 4:25pm
Wow that came out great, you have any in progress pics? Did you spray the blue or brush?

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Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: June-26-2009 at 8:39pm
Originally posted by lewy2001 lewy2001 wrote:

Yes that black outline looks awesome and pete gives it the original thumbs up what a bonus.

The trolley boat stands are a piece of work as well.


100% agree with your comments lewy!!!

btw nice shop you got there!!!

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<a href="">1992 ski nautique


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: June-27-2009 at 12:50pm
Thanks for the complments. To clean up the gel coat i used On and Off to get rid of the water line stain (best $16 i've ever spent) and used a buffer with 3M marine rubbing compound followed up by the 3M finesse-it glaze. I used Rust-oleum Professional paint bought at Lowes. The blue (V7527 royal blue) was an exact, and i mean EXACT match. The black is gloss black same brand. Both were thined with Toluene eventhough the can says Acetone (Thanks for the tip Pete!). Sprayed the blue, than imediatly after while the paint was still wet, went back through with my $5 Harbor Freight air brush for the shadow. The black melted nicely into the blue. Than imediatly pulled the masking. Pulling the tape as soon as posible is key. The Rust-oleum paint is cheap and easy to work with and very foregiving and best of all...origional. I couldnt be more happy with the results. The biggest piece of advice i can give is take your time masking and use good fine-line tape.


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: June-27-2009 at 1:12pm


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: June-27-2009 at 4:04pm



Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: June-27-2009 at 5:30pm
Did you use the larger spray gun for the blue and the air brush for the black?


How did you tape off the white hull to avoid overspray from the blue.


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: June-27-2009 at 11:58pm
Roym, yes that was how it was done. As far as tapeing, I used 18" wide masking paper that is made for traceing. It's sold at auto body supply shops and comes in different lengths. I bought two 25' rolls. After you do the fine line around the letters, put the tracing tape over the entire graphic and gently cut on the fine line tape and remove the tape from the letters. For the transom i just used the traceing paper and carefuly cut each letter by hand. If you take your time (and dont have too many beers) you will get excellent results.


Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: June-28-2009 at 2:46am
Originally posted by 77 nautique 77 nautique wrote:

Roym, yes that was how it was done. As far as tapeing, I used 18" wide masking paper that is made for traceing. It's sold at auto body supply shops and comes in different lengths. I bought two 25' rolls. After you do the fine line around the letters, put the tracing tape over the entire graphic and gently cut on the fine line tape and remove the tape from the letters. For the transom i just used the traceing paper and carefuly cut each letter by hand. If you take your time (and dont have too many beers) you will get excellent results.


Do I understand right that you fine line tape the letters then put the tracing masking paper over them, then cut out the letters and then remove the fine line tape before painting ??? Does the masking paper stick down to the hull and stay in place??


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: June-28-2009 at 10:57am
No, the fine line stays. The tracing paper does stick. I used it to mask between the letters.
Originally I was going to lay the tracing paper down the entire side of the boat and cut out each letter with an exacto knife (that is how I did the letters on the transom) but I found it impossible to get it to lay flat down the side without wrinkeling because of the way the sides are curved. Plus cutting the large letters with an exacto is easier said than done. Once you have made the cut,that's it. As with the fine line,you can pull it back up if you need and try again and you have more control over your lines. So since I already had the tracing tape, rather than trying to fill in between each letter with regular masking tape or whatever, I used the 18" stuff. Plus it made for quicker removal.
Unfortunatly the pictures I posted came out alittle blurry. If they were more clear you might be able to see it. Its hard though because the paper is almost the same color as the hull.


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: June-28-2009 at 1:55pm
Jeff,

Very nice job, looks great! My first CC was a 77', exact same color, which I bought back in the mid 80's, we repainted the graphics however back then I was able to get templates/masks from MidWest CC, made the job much easier. We mixed 5 differnet colors going front to back, fading one into the next bow to stern, it turned out really cool.


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Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: June-28-2009 at 9:52pm
ok tks, I think I know how its done now. I went and bought pretty much the same items and will play with it this week. The masking paper you used looks like white plastic wrap, but I guess it is not plastic.

What was the advantage of thinning with Toluene over using acetone?


Posted By: dt's76tique
Date Posted: June-28-2009 at 10:53pm
that looks great now i want try and do mine!!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-28-2009 at 11:15pm
Originally posted by quinner quinner wrote:

We mixed 5 differnet colors going front to back, fading one into the next bow to stern, it turned out really cool.


A psychedelic Nautique? Dude, That must have been a bitchn', far out, outta sight, tripped out, in the groove boat. Wow man what a trip!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 12:12am
Gee Pete you sound like your stuck in the 70's. I know I am 1977 CC, 1979 Hydra-sport, and a 1975 vette. Are you wearing your Bell Bottoms and tie dyed shirt?


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 12:46am
Roym, toluene evaporates slower than acetone. Gives you more time to work with the paint. Check out a local autobody supply shop for that paper I think you will like it. I'm sure there are better ways but like I said, I had it so i figured I'd use it for something. If I did it again I would do the same thing. I think it worked out well.




Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 1:20am
Hey Quinner, pimped your boat hua? any pictures? Every now and then I had thoughts of changing the graphics. Jeff at Adarondack marine almost had me convinced to strip it and get some new graphics from a late model Nautique. I kept kooking at the old scrached and faded graphic trying to invision what it would look like re-done. Once I started cleaning up the gel coat and saw the shine that was hideing underneath I fell in love with the origional graphics again. Plus I didnt want to face the wrath of everyone yelling at me caus I didn't keep it origional. Maybe i'm bias but I think it has a real timeless look and the dark blue doesn't scream 70's (sorry Roym )
Do you have plans on going to Lake George again this year? I need someone to teach me how to foot!


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 1:30am
Shine baby....Shine!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 9:47am
Roy,
I'm not stuck in the 70's but I sure remember them! I was just reminding Chris (quinner)! He was there too!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 3:17pm
Wow. Amazing job, Jeff!

When I get my next 70's Nautique, Im having you do the lettering!

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Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 4:12pm
Hey Tim, Thanks! I'm quite pleased. I may catch some flack over the rope rub rail. Definatly not origional but I think it complements the boat well. I'm hopeing to get my Correct Craft emblems from Stan today or tomorrow. Than the only other thing is to find the right size "since 1925" decal.


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 4:15pm
Jeff,

I have not been able to locate any pictures after the repaint. The last shade of Blue was almost identical to Alan's (81Nautique) boat, which was the only color used on the stern letters. Also removed the swim ladder and added a teak platform.

Pete,

It was not too psychedelic, used shades of blue mostly, of course today I would never think of such an "un-original" resto for fear of the wrath of Pete, LOL.

Here's a couple pic's of it, top one is Lake Candlewood, CT.






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Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 4:50pm
Dude, nice boat! Love the trailer!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 5:28pm
Originally posted by 77 nautique 77 nautique wrote:

Hey Tim, Thanks! I'm quite pleased. I may catch some flack over the rope rub rail. Definatly not origional but I think it complements the boat well. I'm hopeing to get my Correct Craft emblems from Stan today or tomorrow. Than the only other thing is to find the right size "since 1925" decal.


Jeff,
You must have missed my post right after you started the thread. I have the decals. Email me with contact info.

BTW, even though the rope rub rail isn't original, it doesn't look all that bad. All the rest of your great work makes up for it!!!!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 6:15pm
Hey Pete, I did see the post. I e-mailed you the other day by clicking on your avitar and got a reply back that my message delivery was sccuessful. Guess it wasn't hua? I would love to take two of thoes off your hands. Let me know what I owe you and how you would like to arrange payment.
What is your e-mail address?
Thanks, Jeff


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-29-2009 at 6:21pm
Jeff,
It's pbrainard@wistool.com Sorry it didn't go through. I'm still asking $20 each and priority postage. Just get me you mailing address.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-30-2009 at 10:12pm
Jeff,
When you email me, make sure you title it with something like "CC decal" so it's obvious to me. I have a bad habit of deleting good emails along with all the junk that comes in!!

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Mojo
Date Posted: July-01-2009 at 7:36pm
Man, what a great job on those graphics !!! Good as the factory, ready to go for years...

Did you use any clear over the top? Oh and is there a particular technigue to air brushing from the dark edge to the fade??

Looks fantastic !!!

Moj'

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05' SV211 TE
73' Martinique
had:96' SNOB
had:76' Nautique
had 77 Tique

       



Posted By: Andy
Date Posted: July-02-2009 at 3:07am
The masking paper roll is called Frisket. If you can find a sign shop or even better a supplier of vinyl ask them for transfer paper. Then you get to pick your width up to I think 42", and length is kind of already determined. Stick with the paper type. Theres also a plastic type. Ive had some paint bleed through the edges with it. Bad.

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Posted By: Andy
Date Posted: July-02-2009 at 3:10am
The masking paper roll is called Frisket. If you can find a sign shop or even better a supplier of vinyl ask them for transfer paper. Then you get to pick your width up to I think 42", and length is kind of already determined. The last time I bought some I think it was $35 for 18" wide roll. Probably 300' long. I did quiet a few flame jobs with that. Stick with the paper type. Theres also a plastic type. Ive had some paint bleed through the edges with it. Bad.

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Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: July-02-2009 at 10:40am
ThreadJack!!

Andy, are you coming to Green Lake, don't remember if I saw your name on the sign up???


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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: July-02-2009 at 11:51am
Jeff, Looks awesome. Don't think I'll get to see it at Lake George this year though. I think I have garage envey.

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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-02-2009 at 12:07pm
Wow and what they said, luv the stands!

I have talent envy...I'd never free hand those curves; I build a jig for almost everything.

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Posted By: Andy
Date Posted: July-02-2009 at 8:28pm
I'm not sure yet. I have other places I'm "supposed to be". My wife said so.

Sorry about the re-post additions snafu. I can't find the delete function.


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Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: July-04-2009 at 1:18pm
Mojo, no clear. the Rust-oleum yelds a excelent shine right off the get go. Go over everything with the 3M Finesse It using a buffer with a good quality wool pad and it looks like you laid 3 coats of clear over the entire boat. All of the pictures i posted so far there is no wax on it yet! going to do that today. As far as techinque with the air brush, all i can say is that i have never used one before this project and i was intimidated but i figured i would give it a go knowing that if it didnt turn out good i could go back over it with the blue. I thinned the black down till it almost dripped like water off the stir stick and played around with the settings on the brush and air pressure until it looked about right, crossed my fingers and just did it. Other than a good steady hand there is really nothing to it.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-04-2009 at 1:52pm
Jeff,
I got your message on my answering machine yesterday when I got home from work. Sorry I didn't call you back but the message with you phone # was broken up and I couldn't understand it. Since I had emailed you from work earlier in the day with my address I figured you did get it.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: July-04-2009 at 2:05pm
Yup, got it. I will put the check in the mail first thing Monday. Thanks again for everything. Have a great 4th!!


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: July-07-2009 at 1:04am
Pete, got the decals today when I got home from work and WOW they are perfect! Exact size. I sent the check out this afternoon during lunch.


Posted By: Gator
Date Posted: July-21-2009 at 2:02am
This will be the second paint job on my 1977 Nautique (I gave the first re-paint in 1987). It has the Blue lettering with black shadowing as well, and the black shadow was way easier than I thought it would be. I bought an inexpensive air brush and, with the decals obviously still on, just gently traced around the edges on all lettering and lines - sides and back - just as it came from the factory. It looked absolutely the same. Correct Craft told me they used Rustoleum as factory paint so that's what I used.


Posted By: merrittarnold
Date Posted: September-01-2009 at 9:12am
Hey guys,
What's your best estimate on the life of this paint job versus the vinyl graphics? I think it looks awesome and am ready to start tomorrow, but I don't want to have to do this every year.


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There are motorcycles; and there are Harley Davidsons.
There are tractors; and there are John Deeres.
There are ski boats; and there are Ski Nautiques!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-01-2009 at 10:29am
Merritt,
I'd have to say that both the vinyl and paint are equal but don't worry as it won't be a yearly job. Both the paint and vinyl is affected by UV. The best vinyls are guaranteed for 7 years. That's 7 full years out in the sun so on a boat it may last 3 times that. Best protection when the boat isn't being used is a full past the waterline cover. The transom is the area that really gets the worst sun. Even a boat in a boathouse will get damage from the sun. The sunlight reflects off the water and comes up under the door. I cover my woods even when in the boathouse.

Vinyl has a slight advantage when it comes to dock damage/abrasion.

I'd go with the paint - It's original!!!!



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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: merrittarnold
Date Posted: September-01-2009 at 11:10pm
Sounds good to me. Is it best to completely remove the old graphics first? I can tell these aren't original.


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There are motorcycles; and there are Harley Davidsons.
There are tractors; and there are John Deeres.
There are ski boats; and there are Ski Nautiques!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-01-2009 at 11:26pm
Originally posted by merrittarnold merrittarnold wrote:

Sounds good to me. Is it best to completely remove the old graphics first? I can tell these aren't original.


Yes as long as you have the tracings needed for your sign shop to make ether the mask for paint on th vinyl. You want a decent clean surface to apply ether.

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: merrittarnold
Date Posted: September-01-2009 at 11:33pm
I've looked at all the pictures and the 79 brochures, but I can't find a good picture of the shading and everything for the 79SN. Is there someone that sells the templates? Does anyone have a good, original picture of all the 79 graphics?


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There are motorcycles; and there are Harley Davidsons.
There are tractors; and there are John Deeres.
There are ski boats; and there are Ski Nautiques!


Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: September-02-2009 at 12:11am
Jeff,

I love your work. Where did you get the Rub Rail? Is it a Taco Rub Rail? I do not see the Rope Rub Rail on the Taco Web-site. Maybe you just use the rope instead of the plastic insert. Even looking at it that way I am not sure about which one to use. Do you have the part number for what you have?

Beautiful Boat.

Thanks,

Donald


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-02-2009 at 9:35am
Originally posted by Donald80SN Donald80SN wrote:

Jeff,

I love your work. Where did you get the Rub Rail? Is it a Taco Rub Rail? I do not see the Rope Rub Rail on the Taco Web-site. Maybe you just use the rope instead of the plastic insert. Even looking at it that way I am not sure about which one to use. Do you have the part number for what you have?

Beautiful Boat.

Thanks,

Donald


Originally posted by 77 nautique 77 nautique wrote:

Hey Tim, Thanks! I'm quite pleased. I may catch some flack over the rope rub rail. Definatly not origional.



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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-02-2009 at 11:36am
Pete, the rope rub rail may not be original on Jeff's '77, but it sure would be on Donald's '80!

Merritt, I dont believe there are any differences in the graphics from '77 to '79. Jeff's pictures in this thread are your best guide. There are no templates available unless you want to spend $550 on the vinyl reproductions. Just trace your original lettering. If youre not sure if its original, post a picture and we can tell you.


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Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: September-02-2009 at 11:53am
What type of rope do I need to get for the rub rail insert? 5/8 poly? ( 79 Transom project)

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78 SkiTiq


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: September-02-2009 at 12:01pm
Donald, I can't recall the part # and the box is long gone but if you call Woody @ the former Southeast Correct Craft (now a Master Craft dealer....bummer) he can get you what you need. That's where I got mine from. It was a kit. Came with 50' rail, more than enough rope and a ton of stainless screws. Oh and if you go with the rope, I used Woodys suggestion and used a piece of 1/2" copper pipe with a notch cut out of it to clear the screws and some silicone spray to install the rope. I had never installed rope before, maybe there is a better way, but it went in like a dream for me.


Posted By: 77 nautique
Date Posted: September-02-2009 at 12:04pm
I ment to include this in my post
( Southeast Correct Craft )
Woody
7576 South Orange Avenue
Orlando FL. 32809
407-851-1965


Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: September-03-2009 at 5:44pm
I used Woodys suggestion and used a piece of 1/2" copper pipe with a notch cut out of it to clear the screws and some silicone spray to install the rope. I had never installed rope before, maybe there is a better way, but it went in like a dream for me. [/QUOTE]

Jeff,

Thanks and can you give just a little more explaination about the notch cut into the 1/2" Copper Tube. I know that some of the guys have used the Copper Tube with some soapy water with great success, but I am assuming that that 1/2" size is the ID of the Tube. I know that the guys recommend going back with 1/2" Size Rope instead of the 5/8" that came orginal. This is due to the rubber now being hard over time.

How long does this tube need to be or does it matter? I am thinking three inches long. I do not unstand the notch that is cut. I understand that you will see or run into screws to hold the rub rail to the finerglass, but do you run the notch the entire length of the cooper tube so that it looks like a letter " C" but not that big of a notch? Then you align the opening on the screws and push the rope all the way around. If you could post a picture of your Cooper Tube Tool that would be very helpful.

Within the next few weeks, I am going to replace my rope. I want to replace the entire Rub Rail maybe next Winter.

Thanks,

Donald


Posted By: sweet78
Date Posted: October-27-2010 at 12:27pm
what color blue did you use the boat looks great

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sweetra


Posted By: sweet78
Date Posted: October-27-2010 at 12:32pm
I don,t know if my first post went through but boat looks great what color blue did you use

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sweetra


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-27-2010 at 12:56pm
Originally posted by sweet78 sweet78 wrote:

I don,t know if my first post went through but boat looks great what color blue did you use


Your posts are coming through just fine.



Check Jeff's original post for the prep work details:



http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13844" rel="nofollow - http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13844



On the paint:

Originally posted by 77 nautique 77 nautique wrote:

I used Rust-oleum Professional paint bought at Lowes. The blue (V7527 royal blue) was an exact, and i mean EXACT match. The black is gloss black same brand. Both were thined with Toluene eventhough the can says Acetone (Thanks for the tip Pete!). Sprayed the blue, than imediatly after while the paint was still wet, went back through with my $5 Harbor Freight air brush for the shadow. The black melted nicely into the blue. Than imediatly pulled the masking. Pulling the tape as soon as posible is key. The Rust-oleum paint is cheap and easy to work with and very foregiving and best of all...origional. I couldnt be more happy with the results. The biggest piece of advice i can give is take your time masking and use good fine-line tape.


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Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: February-01-2015 at 5:19pm
Hey Jeff,
Are you still posting? I wanted to check your brain about this thread.
Tom

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1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow
1969 Seacamper Houseboat
1986 Harris Pontoon
2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard
1999 Adventurecraft


Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: February-02-2015 at 9:43am
So guys, it looks like Jeff used this for the wide spray:

http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html" rel="nofollow - Spray Gun

And this for the border:

http://www.harborfreight.com/34-oz-deluxe-airbrush-kit-69492.html" rel="nofollow - Air Brush

And this to mask the letters:

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Fine-Line-MMM6306-Category/dp/B003WHF27O#customerReviews" rel="nofollow - Fine Line

And this to mask the rest:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/s.nl?search=KUS+STMF1830&gclid=CPimtpCiw8MCFTFp7AodzSsAwg" rel="nofollow - Masking Film

So he rubbed out the hull with rubbing compound right over the old lettering, accepting the fact that the letters would rub off, but still be traceable. After he was happy with the hull being cleaned up and shined up with the compound, he used the fine line to outline the outside of the lettering, and then came over all of it with the traceable masking film. He then cut the masking film using the fine line to be the actual border with the lettering, and allowing the masking film to stick to the fine line, and peeled back the traceable masking film from the lettering. He then mixed out blue Rustoleum Professional paint with toluene and did some test sprays to find the right consistency. He used the detail gun to spray the letters, then, while the paint was still tacking out, he went to black Rustoleum, and put the border on. He then pulled up the film and fine line as quick as he could. Does that sound right? Please add inputs.
Tom

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1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow
1969 Seacamper Houseboat
1986 Harris Pontoon
2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard
1999 Adventurecraft


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: February-02-2015 at 10:16am
Uhhh oooo Tom has the retso bug!

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-02-2015 at 11:22am
Tom,
The alternate for the graphics lettering is to trace and take it to a vinyl sign shop. They will scan it, clean up the tracing on their computer and cut a mask. A common name for it is a Gerber mask which is a brand. It would save time from having it mask all the lettering with the fine line tape.

I'm glad to hear you want to go original with paint and not vinyl! One of these days I need to do my Tique. The PO put vinyl graphics on it!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: February-02-2015 at 11:57am
Thanks Pete, I will try and look for locals that can do that. I have one in mind. I just went out and did a patch with the super duty rubbing compound by hand, because I was afraid I would smear the lettering all over the place, and I am surprised how the lettering shined up. It did smear quite a bit because of the oxidation, But I will probably go around twice with super, then down to regular rubbing compound, then start the masking. I need to do this job excluding Sat and Tues, because those are the days the boat is in use. I think I will do one side a week including the transom. I want to pull the swim platform and do the teak cleaning and oiling at the same time.

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1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow
1969 Seacamper Houseboat
1986 Harris Pontoon
2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard
1999 Adventurecraft


Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: February-18-2015 at 8:53pm
My boat is a 1978, graphics have been repainted, if posting photos were not do difficult you all could see.



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