Valvoline VR1 racing oil in name only

Per this post Valvoline VR1 may not have enough ZDDPs as real racing oil to protect our engines. This links says that real racing oil needs to say "For off road use only" otherwise by law they have to reduce ZDDPs. Per link we need to buy Valvoline

VV850 Conventional Racing SAE 10W-30
VV851 Conventional Racing SAE 20W-50
VV854 Synthetic Racing SAE 10W-30
VV 853 Synthetic Racing SAE 5W-30

Can this be right?

http://www.4m.net/archive/index.php?t-48472.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VALVOLINE-RACING-OIL-20W-50-SYNTHETIC-VV855-12-QUARTS_W0QQitemZ260364263223QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090218?IMSfp=TL0902181310008r1115

Martin,
Next time you're looking at oil, take a look at the VR1. It does state "for off road use only"! It does contain the high levels of zddp needed for our flat tappet engines!

Ryan,
Typically a dealer will use the oil that contains the max $$ between wholesale and retail!!!!

Martin - I read the racing post referenced & it was just 'Gibbs' opinion that VR1 would shorten lifter life. He had no data to back up his opinion.

8122pbrainard wrote: Martin, Next time you're looking at oil, take a look at the VR1. It does state "for off road use only"! It does contain the high levels of zddp needed for our flat tappet engines!

Actually, it states: "It is recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels in track and street service."

source: http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=50


And also:

Valvoline Racing VR1: 75% higher zinc than SM engine oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: SAE 20W-50 (part vv211), straight SAE 50 (part vv235), SAE 10W-30 (part vv205), SAE 30(part vv223), SAE 40 (part vv229), and SAE 60 (part vv241)


source: http://www.valvoline.com/downloads/2008-003a.pdf


I'm still using the VR1...

Rotella T 30 or 40 weight.........Combine with a FL1-A filter and you have an ample package to protect your cam and lifters.
This is all I use now in the flat tappett motors, with modern or "roller" motors any high performance oil will be just fine.....Boat dr

SN206 wrote: Im glad you made this post. I am far from a mechanic, but believe in the best care or oil for the boat. I have the dealer due all the scheduled maintance, but never asked what brand or type of oil they use. What does PCM reccomend?

Ryan,

Our Chevy engines are Roller not flat tappet, do not need the ZDDP.

Check your manual as the ZR could be different then the Excalibur in my 206, I have been running Shell Rotilla 15w-40 in mine, most 15-40's may say "Diesel" or something along those lines, no problem, it is the correct weight, conventional oil is best, the remote filter is a standard Ford FL-1a, yes a Ford filter on a Chevy motor, do not fear however, this single Ford component does not appear to hinder the Bow Tie power!!

quinner wrote: conventional oil is best

Careful, CQ. There are many good conventional oils out there- Rotella and Castrol GTX being at the top of my list. That doesnt mean theyre better than synthetics though, especially when it comes to the new roller motors. Several of the 196/Excals that I run with use Mobil1, same as Ive switched to in my truck.

PCM does not recommend the use of synthetics- but they they dont discourage it either. Conventional oils are more than adequate, obviously- but theres nothing wrong with synthetics. Just dont try to extend the manufacturer's oil change interval unless youve got a used oil analysis to back it up.

martin 74 wrote: Davinater I am in no way an expert but I think the ford 351 changed to roller lifters in 1994 and chevy changed in 1986. There are others who will clear this up, but the new oils by law have reduced ZDDPs to increase cat converter life. Unfortunately, our older engines need ZDDPs to lubricate our pre 1994 or 1986 tappet lifters properly. Boat Dr is saying that any quality oil is ok for roller lifters but tappet lifters need oils with higher ZDDPs like Rotella T 30 or 40 or VR1. I have used both in the past and get whichever is in stock.

All very true EXCEPT that it is important to note that the marine industy (as usual) lags behind the auto industry and there are exceptions to the rules above. For instance, there is no such thing as a roller 351w marine engine- even the GT40 (used through 2002) was flat tappet to the very end based on everything Ive read. The 350 used in GM trucks on the other hand didnt go roller until the mid to late 90's, so be sure to check the block's code if youre anywhere near the flat tappet/roller cut off.

TRBenj wrote: quinner wrote: conventional oil is best Careful, CQ. There are many good conventional oils out there- Rotella and Castrol GTX being at the top of my list. That doesnt mean theyre better than synthetics though, especially when it comes to the new roller motors. Several of the 196/Excals that I run with use Mobil1, same as Ive switched to in my truck. PCM does not recommend the use of synthetics- but they they dont discourage it either. Conventional oils are more than adequate, obviously- but theres nothing wrong with synthetics. Just dont try to extend the manufacturer's oil change interval unless youve got a used oil analysis to back it up.

castrol gtx is the one I used on my last oil change... It has a good price but I was wondering if its good...15w40....

kapla, the GTX 15W-40 diesel oil has enough ZDDP, so yeah I'd say it's a good oil.

I'm very tempted to switch to it from the VR1 20W-50 we are using now. I'd like to have a talk with an oil engineer regarding the whole "diesel" aspect and it's components to find out if it is OK for a primary barefoot boat (~4k+ rpm) that runs ~160 F and even cooler in the 32 degree water.

oil threads are always interesting and confusing in the same time!!! i like them... mixed opinions...

I was at the Napa the other day and I noticed that they have straigth weight oil on the VR1 line. They had 40, 50, 60, and 20W-50. I have the 20W-50 now but I am considering a straight 40.

A lot of the new boats call for 15w40 which is a diesel and/or marine oil.

I presently have the heads off my 351, it has 120 hours on it since the rebuild. Out of curiousity I pulled each lifter out and checked for lifter/cam wear and they look as good as they day they went it. Cylinder walls look great as well.

I've used VR-1 20w50 from day one, unless the product has changed I will be sticking with it.

Eric (not trying to give you a hard time here)

You are close....the C rating is for compression ignition (there is no spark) and the S rating is for spark ignition.

These are the first part of the API rating system.The second part of the designation tells what standard the oil meets. Current spark rating is SM and the C rating is at CI-4. Rating are found in the donuts along with the SAE ratings. As shown, some oils will meet requirements for both engine types.