Valvoline VR1 racing oil in name only
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=13060
Printed Date: April-29-2024 at 11:23am
Topic: Valvoline VR1 racing oil in name only
Posted By: martin 74
Subject: Valvoline VR1 racing oil in name only
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 3:47am
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Per this post Valvoline VR1 may not have enough ZDDPs as real racing oil to protect our engines. This links says that real racing oil needs to say "For off road use only" otherwise by law they have to reduce ZDDPs. Per link we need to buy Valvoline
VV850 Conventional Racing SAE 10W-30 VV851 Conventional Racing SAE 20W-50 VV854 Synthetic Racing SAE 10W-30 VV 853 Synthetic Racing SAE 5W-30 Can this be right? http://www.4m.net/archive/index.php?t-48472.html http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VALVOLINE-RACING-OIL-20W-50-SYNTHETIC-VV855-12-QUARTS_W0QQitemZ260364263223QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090218?IMSfp=TL0902181310008r1115 |
Replies:
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 3:53am
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Im glad you made this post. I am far from a mechanic, but believe in the best care or oil for the boat. I have the dealer due all the scheduled maintance, but never asked what brand or type of oil they use. What does PCM reccomend? ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 10:02am
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Martin,
Next time you're looking at oil, take a look at the VR1. It does state "for off road use only"! It does contain the high levels of zddp needed for our flat tappet engines! Ryan, Typically a dealer will use the oil that contains the max $$ between wholesale and retail!!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 10:03am
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they wouldnt do that Pete ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 10:24am
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Martin - I read the racing post referenced & it was just 'Gibbs' opinion that VR1 would shorten lifter life. He had no data to back up his opinion. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 12:34pm
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After this 25 hour "break-in" period. The oil needs to be changed. If I wanted to purchase my own oil for them to use and wanted a real good oil for that ZO6 motor what would you guys suggest? ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: phospher
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 12:42pm
Actually, it states: "It is recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels in track and street service." source: http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=50 And also: Valvoline Racing VR1: 75% higher zinc than SM engine oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: SAE 20W-50 (part vv211), straight SAE 50 (part vv235), SAE 10W-30 (part vv205), SAE 30(part vv223), SAE 40 (part vv229), and SAE 60 (part vv241) source: http://www.valvoline.com/downloads/2008-003a.pdf I'm still using the VR1... ------------- |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 2:11pm
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Be careful with conventional racing oils- they dont have the same detergent packages as regular street-use oils. Most times, the oil change interval is reduced from 3,000 miles to ~500. VR1 maintains the standard detergent package so it has a normal recommended OCI.
Dont just go by what you see on the bottle- although the API rating is usually a clue. Look at the spec sheet and you'll see that VR1 has a pretty high level of the heavy metals (zinc and phos) that we need in our flat tappets. ------------- |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 2:36pm
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Rotella T 30 or 40 weight.........Combine with a FL1-A filter and you have an ample package to protect your cam and lifters.
This is all I use now in the flat tappett motors, with modern or "roller" motors any high performance oil will be just fine.....Boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Daveinater
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 4:28pm
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Hey Doc,
This is going to sound really lame but what engines are modern "roller" motors? Signed, Clueless. ------------- Dave B. %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3734" rel="nofollow - Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 4:51pm
Ryan, Our Chevy engines are Roller not flat tappet, do not need the ZDDP. Check your manual as the ZR could be different then the Excalibur in my 206, I have been running Shell Rotilla 15w-40 in mine, most 15-40's may say "Diesel" or something along those lines, no problem, it is the correct weight, conventional oil is best, the remote filter is a standard Ford FL-1a, yes a Ford filter on a Chevy motor, do not fear however, this single Ford component does not appear to hinder the Bow Tie power!! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 5:07pm
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Quinner,This statement is absurd....
do not fear however, this single Ford component does not appear to hinder the Bow Tie power!! If anything it will enhance the less than stellar attention to detail and lack of engineering in the GM. We all can't be first,some have to strive for that next level.Try some Autolite plugs and maybe you will rise another step in your QUEST.I feel your pain Chris............Boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 5:11pm
Careful, CQ. There are many good conventional oils out there- Rotella and Castrol GTX being at the top of my list. That doesnt mean theyre better than synthetics though, especially when it comes to the new roller motors. Several of the 196/Excals that I run with use Mobil1, same as Ive switched to in my truck. PCM does not recommend the use of synthetics- but they they dont discourage it either. Conventional oils are more than adequate, obviously- but theres nothing wrong with synthetics. Just dont try to extend the manufacturer's oil change interval unless youve got a used oil analysis to back it up. ------------- |
Posted By: martin 74
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 5:17pm
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Davinater
I am in no way an expert but I think the ford 351 changed to roller lifters in 1994 and chevy changed in 1986. There are others who will clear this up, but the new oils by law have reduced ZDDPs to increase cat converter life. Unfortunately, our older engines need ZDDPs to lubricate our pre 1994 or 1986 tappet lifters properly. Boat Dr is saying that any quality oil is ok for roller lifters but tappet lifters need oils with higher ZDDPs like Rotella T 30 or 40 or VR1. I have used both in the past and get whichever is in stock. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 5:31pm
All very true EXCEPT that it is important to note that the marine industy (as usual) lags behind the auto industry and there are exceptions to the rules above. For instance, there is no such thing as a roller 351w marine engine- even the GT40 (used through 2002) was flat tappet to the very end based on everything Ive read. The 350 used in GM trucks on the other hand didnt go roller until the mid to late 90's, so be sure to check the block's code if youre anywhere near the flat tappet/roller cut off. ------------- |
Posted By: Daveinater
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 5:33pm
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Hmmm....this is good info. I thought the Walmart oil I've always used was fine....?
--Dave (okay I'm kidding but didn't know to look for anything special for my 1992 5.8 Pro Boss...good info here guys. Thanks) ------------- Dave B. %20http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3734" rel="nofollow - Our 1992 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 6:52pm
castrol gtx is the one I used on my last oil change... It has a good price but I was wondering if its good...15w40.... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 7:06pm
If you have a newer style roller motor , but all 351w motors require high levels of the additive ZDDP, these are in too low a concentration , in the Castrol ,to lube flat tappett cams. You be the judge on how you spend your money. Being penny wise and dollar foolish will cost major bucks on an inboard.Oil is cheap change often and buy the best filter . ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 7:26pm
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kapla, http://www.planetnautique.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=13494&highlight=gtx+diesel - the GTX 15W-40 diesel oil has enough ZDDP, so yeah I'd say it's a good oil.
I'm very tempted to switch to it from the VR1 20W-50 we are using now. I'd like to have a talk with an oil engineer regarding the whole "diesel" aspect and it's components to find out if it is OK for a primary barefoot boat (~4k+ rpm) that runs ~160 F and even cooler in the 32 degree water.  ------------- |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 7:30pm
oops I used the gasoline one but the diesel is available here... next oil change...
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 7:35pm
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oil threads are always interesting and confusing in the same time!!! i like them... mixed opinions... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 7:45pm
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Are you talking about the GTX 15W-40 being for gasoline? The only 15W-40 I can fnid is the one and only diesel variety. Castrol wouldn't give me a selection from Argentina, I don't know what is available to you down there. ------------- |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 8:47pm
| I was at the Napa the other day and I noticed that they have straigth weight oil on the VR1 line. They had 40, 50, 60, and 20W-50. I have the 20W-50 now but I am considering a straight 40. |
Posted By: 05 210
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 9:41pm
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this topic needs to be a sticky.
Mike ------------- http:/diaries/details.asp?ID=2219" rel="nofollow - Air Nautique 210 Team 640 hours, not 1 regret |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: March-17-2009 at 10:37pm
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A lot of the new boats call for 15w40 which is a diesel and/or marine oil. ------------- |
Posted By: carnes99
Date Posted: March-18-2009 at 3:16am
Amen Boat dr! I consider the best part of my boat to be the FORD filter  .
Anyway Penzoil makes a 15w-40 that is called Marine. I just used that and think that it will be fine. ------------- Keep mama happy and life is GOOD! Josh http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4465&yrstart=2001&yrend=2005 - 2005 SAN LE |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: March-18-2009 at 9:51am
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I presently have the heads off my 351, it has 120 hours on it since the rebuild. Out of curiousity I pulled each lifter out and checked for lifter/cam wear and they look as good as they day they went it. Cylinder walls look great as well.
I've used VR-1 20w50 from day one, unless the product has changed I will be sticking with it. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-18-2009 at 10:10am
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you have to be sure near the API cert it says SC and SI which means, one means spark compression (diesel) spark ignition (gas) some will have one or both...this is from memory so dont give me a hard time if its not correct ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: LaurelLakeSkier
Date Posted: March-19-2009 at 1:38am
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Eric (not trying to give you a hard time here)
You are close....the C rating is for compression ignition (there is no spark) and the S rating is for spark ignition. These are the first part of the API rating system.The second part of the designation tells what standard the oil meets. Current spark rating is SM and the C rating is at CI-4. Rating are found in the donuts along with the SAE ratings. As shown, some oils will meet requirements for both engine types. 
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Posted By: martin 74
Date Posted: March-19-2009 at 4:56am
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Thanks all
No doubts Valvoline VR1 series and Rotella straight weights are the best motor oils for our tappet valve engines. Interesting NAPA carries VR1 in straight weights. The '74 Waukesha engine manual suggests 10W30. I have been only able to find the 20W50. |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-19-2009 at 9:58am
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Laurel, thats from a class I took in 1983, many brain cells have vanished, thats why i said from memory lol ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-19-2009 at 4:05pm
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Eric,
Mark (LLS) is a HS Power Mechanics teacher (remember they used to call it auto shop!!) so I'm glad to see he's teaching his kids all the correct terms! Martin, In 74 I don't think 20-50 was around yet so 10-30 was it. FWIW, I'm running VR1 20-50 in all my boats (54,64 and 77) ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: March-20-2009 at 12:29am
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I hope he's very stern on calling them engines ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: KennyA
Date Posted: May-01-2009 at 4:46pm
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Picked up some of the VR1 (I have begun to doubt my original running of Mobil 1 High Mileage which I ran last year with no problem) for my old 'Tique and was looking around on the Valvoline site and came accross this page on ZDDP:
http://www.valvoline.com/downloads/2008-003a.pdf They are claiming their SynPower synthetic oil has a zinc/phosphorus additive. Any thoughts? ------------- Kenny <>{ |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-02-2009 at 3:13am
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Mobil 1 20w50 is has the ZDDP.
On a seperate but related note, once GM goes under with Chrysler hopefully we will get some more Ford marine engines Then all you GM people can put your oil filters on a the correct motor in your Correct Craft.
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-02-2009 at 11:30am
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Maybe there is Fiat power in the future? We used to call them Mussolini's revenge! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: May-02-2009 at 1:35pm
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I must admit, my 502 runs just a little sweeter with the Ford filter on her.
On another note. I am admittedly not much of a motorhead, but I am learning here. I do not have the correct oil in the Mustang. I have about 2 hours on the engine and would like to convert it to the proper ZDDP containing oil. Should I do it immediately or is it fine to wait til a scheduled change. Same goes for my wife's Mustang convertible engine, which is also a 289. It only has about 25 miles on it since I changed it last. And if so, do I really need to change the filter too? Or is that fine? ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-23-2009 at 11:24pm
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I have found most oils around here still have the Zinc additive, some in more proportions than others.
Right now I'm using a straight W40 for diesel engines called "HD Suplemento 1", I took a look at the catalog and found it has 1% Distiofosfato de Zinc wich I guess is the ZDDP you talk about. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: July-24-2009 at 12:52am
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Luchog, I would do a little research on that oil, if the levels are too low it will cost more than an oil change. This subject has been covered, with a lot of data gathered. The general rule in the US is Vavoline VR- 1 and the Shell Rotella T 30 or 40 weight.
Do not remember specific ppm on both the Zinc & phosphorus content , but they seemed to be the highest. But it never hurts to raise the warning flag to all that do not understand the newer oils and their reforulations that can destoy a flattet moor quickly. All in this being said , bottom line "be careful of the oils you put in an old motor like ours, roller motors dont care......... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-24-2009 at 10:23am
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Ive been using the Rotella, called the 800 line and they confirmed all thier oils were high on the Zinc list ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-24-2009 at 3:00pm
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One thing I forgot to add, last month when I had my cylinder heads off for a valve job, I took some of the flat tappets out and saw absolutely no signs of wear or contact on their bases.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: July-25-2009 at 12:38pm
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Interestng (to me anyway) story on oils....I had just completed the rebuild this spring on my 351. Hadn't really been too concerned about oils (other than break in procedure oil in which I used one of the heavy duty diesel oils suggested on this site). Drained that out after break in, and just put some straight 30 weight oil in that I bought at AutoZone. I picked it out because the front of the label says...."High Performance...Great Protection".
So, we are out in the boat for the first run of the year. I keep an extra quart of the AutoZone 30wt in the boat. My 19 year old son picks it up and starts reading the back of the label. It says...."This oil should not be used in engines made after 1930........and it contains no detergents or additives". WHAT THE HECK!?!?!?! I am thinking, oh god, what have I just done to the engine. I put about 4 hours on the engine with that crap oil in it. I came home and did a bunch of research on this site about oils. I settled on the Rotella T. However, I couldn't find the 30wt or 40wt, so I went with the 15w40. Are there any problems with this multi-weight and having adequated ZDDP's? Interestingly enough, I also went to a GM dealership and asked a Service Mgr. about oils for our two Chebby Impalas, as it relates to ZDDP's and the best oils to use. The guy does not know what I am talking about, and he tells me that he is a recent retiree from GM Powertrain Div. I was very surprised that a GM Service Mgr. had no idea about this topic!! |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: July-25-2009 at 2:42pm
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Are there any problems with this multi-weight and having adequate ZDDP's?
There is not enough ZDDP's to properly protect the valve train.The straight weights are available , you just have to look harder.GM made an additive for years to supplement todays reformulated oils. But I think it is now NLA. All of this is a result of catalytic converters and the particulate filters mandated for the new diesels.Both Zinc and Phosphorous have a detrimental effect on the emission systems. David beware of the lube you use, sad but true that a simple oil change can do dollars in damage......... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: July-25-2009 at 4:33pm
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Billy....I don't disagree with your comment. Thats why I immediately pulled that AutoZone brand 30wt out, and put the Rotella T in.
BUT, a sincere question...are you saying that the 15w40 is not as good as the straight 30wt or 40wt? Just trying to learn here! I had done a lot of google searches on the topic, and read a lot of posts on auto and boat websites that folks were using the Rotella T 15w40 for higher ZDDP's. I am just trying to get a definitive answer, and not ask a repetitive questions. So, why do they add more ZDDP's to the straight weights vs. the multi-weights? Thanks! Dave |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: July-25-2009 at 5:33pm
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The multi grades are used in the newer motors that would have a catalytic converters.There was a chart I think TRBenj found that shows all the ppm's of the various additives.
Kinda scary to see what all goes in the oils we assume are just oil.The straight weights are mostly used in diesel motors, tractors or stationary power plants,therefore no emission devices. The Graymarine engine in the Dart calls for a straight weight non detergent . I am using the Rotella T30 in all my old iron and 20/50 Castrol in everything else. This was my oil of choice for years, but fear of a cam wipe out has changed my views on what is healthy for both the stroker and the 60 year old powerplant in the Dart. This is simply my perspective on the brand and type that I use to service the engines that come thru my shop and what I need to do to make sure I do not destroy a perfectly good motor with a bad choice of oils.I am the one that will buy that motor . ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: xjglen
Date Posted: July-25-2009 at 7:02pm
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The motor in this example would be a flat tappet motor.
http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=650&page=4#Post650 Correct me if I'm wrong but I think this is a good example for those of us with the standard flat tappet motors. Or am I just trying to make my self feel better because that's what in my oil pan right now. ------------- 93 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: mndanielsncsu
Date Posted: July-25-2009 at 10:34pm
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So should I be using Valvoline VR1 20w50 in my 93 w/ Pro-Boss? I've been using Rotella SAE 30. Or should I search out VR1 straight 30? ------------- 1993 Sport Nautique - sold May 2010 |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: July-25-2009 at 11:17pm
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I would stay with your first choice of the 30 Rotella.Plenty of ZDDP in the sraight weight, I think the levels are lower in the multi's........ ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-26-2009 at 12:30am
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mine is classified:
API SF/CC MIL-L-46152C ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-27-2009 at 1:18am
Not all multi's, Doc. Rotella puts less zinc in the 15w40 than the straight weights, but thats I dont believe that is the case with the Valvoline VR1. ------------- |
Posted By: xjglen
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 12:41pm
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Talking directly to Shell I was told that there is actually more ZDDP in there multi weight Rotella oils. I'll do some research to find out what levels are in the VR1 oils. ------------- 93 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 1:01pm
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I talked to the local oil manufacturer here in Argentina, YPF, and exposed the issue with the ZDDP additive in US oils, he said that even though most oils in Argentina have it, all engines could use an antifriction additive as well, and that ZDDP is just one of many.
In my case, I put a can of Patriot Power MT-10 every 3 oil changes. I guess it really works since rpms bumped by 200 after I made the treatment. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 1:46pm
Luch, be careful- that stuff sounds like snake oil to me! There are VERY few additives that arent heavily debated over on BobIsTheOilGuy- most arent recommended. Im no chemical engineer, but as I understand it, ZDDP is a heavy metal additive that actually helps oil "stick" to metal surfaces, which is exactly what we need on the flat tappet lifters to cam contact patches in our engines. I would not think that it would be called an "anti friction" additive, as it seems to do just the opposite. Having it in the oil certainly doesnt make the engine more efficient- it does the exact opposite. Newer oils, especially synthetics are known to be slipperier and improve engine efficiency- but thats not necessarily a good thing if youre looking to protect your cam. Tread carefully! ------------- |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 2:02pm
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I though Patriot Power as known in the US as well.
It does not affect the oil but the magnetic charges on the metals, by equalling polarities it makes metals repeal each other thus reducing friction, like when you try to put 2 magnets together. This a sample video testing it against Molikote, another kind of oil http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_yPI7dyJXo Sorry it's in spanish, but check the pressure gauge. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 2:15pm
Ive never heard of Patriot Power. That sales pitch sure comes close to the definition of snake oil! What do you think, Pete? ------------- |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 4:32pm
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Patriot power is known in the US as Muscle Power corporation, this is the product I'm using:
http://www.mpc-home.com/products-automotive-mt10.php they call it a metal treatment. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 4:41pm
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I call it snake oil and wouldn't bet my camshaft on it in a location where replacement parts are not easily attainable. ------------- |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 4:48pm
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Thanx HW for taking the words right out of my mouth. These products are good for repairs.When was the last time PCM agreed with the promoters of this product..........Hi Quality oil Is All That Is Needed........... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 5:11pm
I'd go with the Castrol GTX 15W-40 diesel that kapla has found readily available or use a proper additive.
 ------------- |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 9:04pm
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what is it that you call snake oils?= ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 9:56pm
Luch, "Snake oil" is a slang term given to substances that are doubtful in there performance. The term came from the "Wild West" days in the US when traveling salesmen roamed from town to town selling tonics that were nothing more than alcohol and opiates. I ran into our lubricate supplier at the plant this afternoon and again asked him about the zinc additives. He again told me that even though there are other compounds that enhance lubrication properties of oils, nothing beats the zincs. It has been used for years and has a proven track record. Our severe duty deep drawing lubes have lots of it!! I'm sticking with Valvolene VR1 and not trust a "snake oil". ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 9:59pm
Snake Oil. n. 1. A worthless preparation fraudulently peddled as a cure for many ills. 2. Speech or writing intended to deceive; humbug. ------------- |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 10:16pm
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Pete,
This question has been asked but nobody has answer it. VR1 comes in different grades now, 10W-30, 30, 40, 50, 60. I am using 20W-50. The oil preassure seems high and I wonder if I should consider other grades like 10W-30 or a straight weight on my next oil change. |
Posted By: Luchog
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 10:37pm
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Allright guys, I get the whole snake oil thing, what I dont understand yet is how do you determine that a certain product, such as the MPC MT-10 in this case is uneffective or harmfull for the engine???
After I did the treatment on my engine, wich is adding 10% of the crankcase oil capacity (I added less) on a warm engine, my iddle went 200rpms higher and the engine overall felt smoother on the whole rpm range. I have put over 150 hours on my engine since, and made 2 oil/filter changes. Oil pressure drops to 35 only when the oil is next to a change, 55-60 while under way. I use the boat 2-3 days a week on winter and 5-6 days a week on summer. I'd normally use a 15w40 Diesel oil, but the PO put Mobile 1 straight 40 on this engine and I chose to keep using it, just different brand, because I feared that a multigraded oil detergent package could carbon clean the engine and mess things up. Only mechanical issues with this engine so far (knock on wood)have been the advance weights at the distributor, one valve seat broke a few months ago but I'd not dare saying it had anything to do with lubrication but on the fact that the heads were never fully rebuilt as the rest of the engine was. Now they are too. While the heads were apart, I checked the tappets and found absolutely no marks or signs of wear, I wonder if I could have taken a look at the cam lobes also. This is a personal first hand experience with this product (MPC MT-10), maybe time will prove me wrong, so far it has worked well in my opinion. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2095" rel="nofollow - 1980 Ski Nautique Commander 351W |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-28-2009 at 10:59pm
|
Anthony,
Want do you consider a high oil pressure? Have you checked the pressure with a mechanical gauge T'd in at the sender? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: July-29-2009 at 1:17am
| I think the oil pressure is 60-70psi |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: July-29-2009 at 1:17am
| But the question is should I consider a lower weight VR1 oil |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-29-2009 at 2:01am
|
OK, might as well jump into the fray (Deja Vu). I discussed mixing different weight oils with my local lubrication engineer & he said it was perfectly OK to mix 10W30 with 20W50. So I mix 50/50 so the oil pressure isn't quite so high. Engine hasn't blown yet, have my fingers crossed he is right! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: July-30-2009 at 8:10pm
Ok guys so you all have me very, very scared. So being the crazy engineer turned marketing guy, I have poured over A LOT of websites, looking for the real deal. I found a guy on www.stevesnovasite.com forum (veno) who actually paid for a couple of independent testing companies to test different oils. One of his threads is REALLY long and after reading through the whole thing, I feel very confident in his data. Unfortunately, he never summarized it into something that tied it all together. Don't get me wrong he comes up with conclusions and recommendations, but not with the relevant numbers attached. So I have gone ahead and done that and the information is attached here.
You will see that most of the more popular oils discussed here (Rotella T, VR1, Mobile1) tested in the 1200 to 1600 ppm range. I believe this is an acceptable range to provide protection for normal use on our engines. Cam break in is another story and you might want to use an additive. The good news most of this data was obtained in 2008 so it is what I would call relatively recent. Hope this is helpful. Steve ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: July-30-2009 at 8:16pm
|
Oh yeah, I should probably post his summary:
Oils suitable for breakin……..that are available. with enough Zinc and Phophorus.. OILS LISTED BY ALPHABETICAL ORDER NOT BY QUALITY or quantity of content. Brad penn break in oil grp2 Joe Gibbs break in oil grp2 Pennzoil GT performance. All weights. grp2 Shell Rotela T 30wt, 40wt, 15W40wt. grp2 Starbright 30Wt grp2 Starbright 40Wt (pending) grp2 Valvoline VR1.. all weights grp2 . I like the Rotela because of the extra dispersant's and detergents… it creates a higher viscous… and will suspend small particles I also like the StarBright because of the 1600ppm of zinc and is as cheap as Rotela Best diesel oil test ever... http://www.turbodieselregister.com/TDR57_Oil.pdf OILS suitable for street High performance use with enough Zinc and Phosphorus for flat cams and High spring rates. Up to 150lbs seat pressure. Brad Penn all weights grp2 Castrol syntec 20W50 for older cars grp3 Champion XPS 20W50 grp3 syn Joe Gibbs oils grp?? Mobil1 15W50 gold cap and silver cap. grp4 syn Mobil1 Turbo diesel truck grp4 syn Mogil1 racing grp4 syn Pennzoil GT 25W50 grp2 Royal Purple racing oils Grp5 syn Shell Rotela T 30wt, 40wt, 15W40wt. grp2 Quaker State Q horse power 10w60 only grp 3 syn Valvoline VR1 all weights grp2 TRACK/RACE only. Brad Penn all weights grp2 Champion XPS 20W50 grp3 syn. Joe Gibbs oils grp?? Mobil1 racing grp4 syn Pennzoil GT all weights grp2 Royal Purple racing oil all weights grp5 syn Quaker State Q RACING all weights…syn Valvoline VR1 all weights grp2 Valvoline synthetic racing all weights grp? Valvoline conventional NSL all weights grp2 And a few others have a select few oils.. I have not investigated them.. as they are some what hard to get. and saw no real need to.. Oils that are generally not good for Flat tappet cams are the API SM with the ILSAC GF3 and ILSAC GF4 ratings... the GF3 rating is 1000ppm or less of zinc, while the GF4 is 800ppm zinc or less.. which is the current rating as of 11/2007 the energy saving oils that fall in the 0Wto40, like 0w5, 0w10, 0w20, 0w30, 10w30, 10w40, 5w20, 5w30, are all very low in zinc to the tune of .800ppm or less...be sure to look for the ILSAC GF3/4 rating... GF3 GF4 is the clue to low zinc content... all the VOA's I have seen on these type of oils have all been below 800ppm with most in the 600 range And this is the link to the thread if you want to read through the whole thing. http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80715&highlight=zddp - http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80715&highlight=zddp (If you do decide to read it, spend the time to read the WHOLE thing, because he questions to the point of giving up on some oils (like VR1) before he finishes or completes his testing and you can't really jump to the end cause you miss a lot of his analysis on the "whats & why's") ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: May-20-2011 at 8:44pm
|
Brain......melting....eyes.....burning...
So, for my 1989 2001 SN with stock 351 I would be right in the safe zone with Rotella straight 40, Valvolene Vr1 straight 40 or Vr1 20w50 AND a filter other than Fram? ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: May-21-2011 at 12:55am
|
So this is the stuff I want?
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=SHR550019904_0006509994&An=0 ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-21-2011 at 1:49pm
|
Tom - That will do it & is the cheapest option for good oil with high ZPPD. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-21-2011 at 2:06pm
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=SHR550019904_0006509994&An=0 - Link to Napa/oil ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: daddyo
Date Posted: May-21-2011 at 2:32pm
| I think this info is out of date on the zddp. The rotella single weights no longer have the higher amounts. waterdog (i think) did an analysis in another post and it's the 15-40 that has the higher amount now. want to say it was in the 1200ppm range. The single wt rotella was under 900, if i remember correctly. maybe he can comment. |
Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: May-21-2011 at 2:38pm
|
How about the VR1 straight 40? ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-21-2011 at 2:59pm
|
Thats what I run (VR-1 40)as recommended in the manual (straight 40w). It has 1389 ppm ZDDP. Brad Penn 40W is a little cheaper if you can find it. It is1400 pom ZDDP. Both are right in the sweet spot. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-21-2011 at 3:04pm
|
Oh that is VR-1 Racing. Usually in stock at Napa or they can order and have it next day. I also use the Napa gold filter. Its ranked high in a number of filter tests referenced here on CCF or in Consumer Reports. One stop shopping!
------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: May-21-2011 at 9:41pm
Thanks Guys. That was a very educational thread. So on a different note, Dexron Mercron lll is good to flush and replace the 20w in the 1:23 transmission? ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-22-2011 at 9:56am
|
yes, i recently pulled a borg apart and found the facings on the reverse clutch plates came right off, just as if it came unglued, this was a first and i couldnt isolate it to a plate problem. i did notice though the oil was a touch thicker and felt more of a lucas type oil maybe even a synthetic, whatever it was i felt it had an additive that made the plates unglue.
but for the borgs and the pcms, dexron/mercon or compatible ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: May-22-2011 at 2:34pm
|
Thanks Eric, I was hoping you would chime in.
Tom ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-23-2011 at 3:56am
|
Kapla, last time I checked, most castrol gtx oil had enough zddp for flat tappets. As to why or if gt40 marine motors are not roller motors,I don't know. They should be. And if not you can buy a roller conversion kit.
The ford diesel oil has high levels of zddp too. If I ever get a gm powered boat, it will get ford oil, ford oil filters, and autolite plugs. That will help  ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: May-23-2011 at 7:39pm
|
Tom..I had to go the first page of the thread , back in 2009 to know what where you answering me..LOL...
I found here the VR-1 20w-50 and been using it since then..3 oil changes since rebuilt.... As for going roller on my 351w...nice upgrade but not likely to spend $500 to do it... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-23-2011 at 8:26pm
I don't know when you checked but it's http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/p,q/psd_gtx_usa.pdf - not shown anymore. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-23-2011 at 8:43pm
Kev, Don't worry, a Ford engine would NEVER give Tom any problems even if he ran water instead of oil in the crankcase!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-24-2011 at 12:23am
Exactly.
luc, yeah I saw that. As far as the zddp in castrol, if you look enough you can find the ratings. What I saw was that castrol across their line had very good numbers, better than most other oils. I'll see if I have those bookmarked on my PC. I definitely don’t have them on my android.... yet. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-24-2011 at 9:01am
Due to all the fairly recent changes with oils, the documentation must be dated to back up your claims. You do not want to make the same mistake that was done earlier in this thread. It wouldn't help your image........again!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-24-2011 at 10:09pm
This was recent news regarding the castrol. I'm pretty sure I posted the link in a different thread. I never said anything in this thread that wasn't correct  .....I've seen a few incorrect things posted by others though. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: May-24-2011 at 10:30pm
|
Show us the data, or the link, but I think you are mistaken ... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-24-2011 at 10:54pm
Come on Tom! You've got to do better than just the above!! Did you miss this:
ADD?
I agree - where's the data/link proof??? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-24-2011 at 10:56pm
Come on Tom! You've got to do better than just the above!! Did you miss this:
I agree - where's the data/link proof??? Do you really want to pass on bad info to a fellow CCfan member? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-26-2011 at 3:00am
|
Ok, there's a lot of great recent info out there on the web about zddp levels in oil. Perhaps. The best info. Is on corvetteforum.com's c3 forum. The link is under" flat tappet oil" thread. It's 23 pages and a great read. It has manufacturers zddp claims as well as blackstone lab results. Without disseminating the thread 100%, castrol 20w 50 does have the zddp levels our flat tappet motors need.
vr1 race/ off road 20/50 does too, but has a short oil change interval per valvoline themselves. That short 3 month iirc span is what has me worried about blindly using 20/50 race vr1 and hoping it is working as it is expected 4 months later. The castrol, amsoil, 15/50 mobil1, and a handful of others not including vr1 are theonly oils made that are designed for flat tapped cams AND a normal boating seasons length. Some say the new15/50 rotella triple protection has enough zddp, but the new diesel oil standards and what shell says are contradictory to eachother as far as zddp. Then there's the added detergents in diesel. Oils that are plain scary for gas engine, esp flat tappet motors. No more rotella for me, in anything that's not a diesel. Now, i've seen oil labels change even very recently claiming zddp levels for flat tappet motors right on the label. If you can't fin d the link, i'll post. It from my pc sometime soon. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: May-26-2011 at 4:02am
bla bla bla where is the link?????? I also like your reasoning on not using the ROTELLA...  ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-26-2011 at 12:19pm
I would like to see where youre getting this info. Im sure youre aware that Valvoline makes several off road/racing oils. Some have minimal detergent packages with shorter recommended OCI's. The VR1 was not one of these oils and had a 3000 mile recommended OCI last time I checked. ------------- |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: May-26-2011 at 1:59pm
|
I think this is the site: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/2484100-list-of-flat-tappet-oils.html - Corvette Forum Flat Tappet Oils
Cursory look show the information to be current, obviously I have not had the time to read the whole 23 pages. But at least we have the link. I do like to keep up on the oils, so I look forward to reading through it - Man I must be sick... ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: May-26-2011 at 2:12pm
|
I´m very familiar with that forum..as I´m a member also..LOL..
haven´t been in a while lately though... I used to follow that thread.. ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-26-2011 at 2:43pm
Castrol makes several 20w-50s, this is from that Corvette forum. Castrol Syntec 20W-50 Grades: 20W50 Claim: "Engineered to increase wear protection for classic cars with flat tappet camshafts" Verification: Email from Castrol 12/9/09: Current Syntec 20W-50 (for classic cars) is actually a modern premium quality API SM product that has been Zinc boosted to Zinc levels that are reminiscent of levels from historic API categories such as SG when flat tappet cams with high spring loads were common in the fleet. For reference, note that the API SM category has the most rigorous passenger car engine oil (PCO) test performance requirements in the history of the API PCO categories. The level of Zinc in the new Syntec 20W-50 is a minimum of 1200 ppm, which will provide excellent anti-wear protection for the cam and lifters in a flat-tappet cam engine. Verification: NONE ------------- |
Posted By: horkn
Date Posted: May-27-2011 at 12:07am
|
Skutsch, yep that is the link.
Hwood, syntec 20/50 is what I am talking about. As far as tests substantiating the zddp levels, that can be found later in the thread, as well as on bmw and other forums. As good as that thread is, it's still not all encompassing. Kapla, my coworker is cherrybomb on that forum. Boat dr, if you do not see the issues with using the new formulas of diesel oil in flat tappets, then a few more pages in that and other threads should be read. Here is an excerpt.... "Can anyone point me in the direction of more information regarding differences in additives (detergent or otherwise), and data suggesting these differences lead to material problems in gasoline engines? I am continuing to learn... If you go to bobistheoilguy.com and check the VOA of diesel oils you will see the detergent levels run way higher than the spark ignition oils. Even the gasoline oils have increased the detergent levels. This is one reason not to use ZDDP additives with SM oil. Here is a great article explaining the interaction of zinc and detergents in oil as well as some info on synthetics by Lake Speed Jr. He is a lubrication expert for Joe Gibbs racing. http://www.aera.org/ep/downloads/ep8/EPQ409_36-39.pdf If you want an actual research paper addressing the effects of detergent additives on Zinc check page 8 in this paper. It goes into scientific detail on how the zinc protects the cam and how detergents reduce this protection: http://www.apmaths.uwo.ca/~mmuser/Papers/TL05.pdf " It's sound logic if you think it through. Diesels, even the TDI race audis that have won lemans never get above 5500 rpm max, and normal non race diesels typically don't go over 4500rpm. The detergents in diesel oils are known to not be good for gas motors. Tim, I'm pretty sure that vette forum thread has a valvoline tech person quoted as saying that the race/off road vr1 is not made for longer OCI's. edit.. I just read the whole thread, it's not in there, but it was in a thread I saw last night while looking for facts for the people that doubt to see.;) I'll check to see where I saw that. In any case, for an easily had full synth oil with proper zddp amounts that is readily available for cheap, mobil 1 15w 50 can be had for about 22 dollars for a gallon at wal mart. Brad Penn 10/40 seems to be good too, but where do we readily get that? Amsoil has great oil too, as well as royal purple, but it's expensive. I think I will go with the mobil1 15w 50 with my bosch oil filter for this season unless I can get a deal on RP or syntec again, I don't ever go to wal mart, but I might have to for boat oil. LOL The castrol syntec I and hwood mentioned can be easily had, and is not too pricey when you can get 5 qts of it with a filter for 30 dollars or so on sale at advance auto. I used that deal when I got the 9 qts of oil I needed for my audi. I got 10 qts of 0w 40 castrol syntec and 2 Bosch oil filters ( one for the boat and one for the 4runner as the audi uses a cartridge filter none of the normal auto parts stores carry in stock) for like 65 dollars. It's not easy(or possible) to link from a smartphone, but that may be simply because my atrix is new to me. ------------- 78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-27-2011 at 9:30am
|
to cheapy to put 25.00 in oil, but not to cheapy to throw a hundy of gas in every weekend? i dont confuse to easily, but im confused, start with syn end with syn, zinc no zinc, rollers no rollers,
all i can say is i keep seeing the same damn 6.0 litre truck every few months with 4 qts low everytime and it aint blown yet, i pop the cork and 1 qt of brown molasses oozes out of it everytime...i know its a roller motor, and it appears to me that the only engines you see wiped out are the ones low on oil, not to many failures due to the wrong oil, maybe we should promote check your oil once in while ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-27-2011 at 10:35am
| Got some bad news Tom, Wallyworld doesn't have the Mobil 1 anymore. I checked 3 different stores before my last oil change and then switched to the VR 1. |