prop shaft removal

In a nut shell I can't get it out!

on my 85 2001 I borrowed my buddies steering wheel puller . It worked fine but it was on there tight

Ben,

I know of two methods to do this.

Method #1 is to remove the motor. Then it is easy to remove.

Method #2 is to use a tall 1" Diameter Socket or a 1" Dia Pipe between the Drive Shaft and the Drive Shaft Coulper and four threaded rods with nuts. You use the threaded rods to pull the coupling off of the shaft. The Coupler will slid over the 1" dia socket or pipe. The piece of pipe is between both couplings and is on the drive shaft 1" dia and the Trans Coupling. The coupling is on with a taper fit. To put it back together some put the shaft in the oven and the coupling in the freezor and the quickly put them back together. The new shafts use a key way type system that is easy to work with.

Do a search and I think that it was Pete Brainard (8122pbrainard) that put up a drawing that shows how the threaded rod puller system works. They use a piece of pipe or a socket to place between the couplings. Send me a e-mail to tilley165@bellsouth.net and I can draw a picture and scan it to you via e-mail. However, the picture is on this site if you do the search function. It may have been done by the Boat Dr., but I am thiking that it was by Pete. If I was you I would also install a Drip Less Packing kit while you have this all apart. JMO.

I hope this helps,

Donald

Be patient, lots of old folks around here are in bed already. I'm sure you'll have an answer in the morning if not sooner.

I'm almost positive there are threads on this if you haven't searched give it a try. Heat is always a good option if you have a torch.

you know thats right ...Donald has the right idea a steering wheel puller is about 20bucks and you can return it if you want

Ben,

I will send you a drawing in the morning. The coupler is on with a Taper Fit. It is a PITA. If your Drive Shaft is bent. The new ones have a different setup.

Donald

or call A.R.E and buy a double taper shaft, he is out in Oregon and the place is called Elberts, Cecil is the owner
there is no easy way to gat the coupling on, unless you do what they say above, no knicks can be on the shaft or the coupling will stop half way, then your really screwed

Take a old wood chisel and hammer to the parting line betwen the two halves. It's common for them to be rusted together.

Next issue will be the coupling half removal from the prop shaft. It's not threaded and not tapered unless someones put a ARE shaft in it. It is a shrink to fit.
Using the search, here's a thread that may help
Here's the thread with the sketch of the "long threaded rod trick"

Donald80SN wrote: The coupler is on with a Taper Fit. It is a PITA. If your Drive Shaft is bent. The new ones have a different setup. Donald

only if it has been replaced with a taper shaft, the orginal shaft's and even some replacement shafts are straight with a slight press fit and keyway.

Also if you are using the threaded rod method make sure the solid piece be it bar stock or a socket the O.D. has to be 7/8" or smaller or it's never going to work.

You might have to use a rubber mallet to get the coupling halfs to seperate as they like to rust up.

8122pbrainard wrote: I've got to get our IT guy up here to check my computer. It's got a echo on it?

hey that wasn't posted when I started to type

No it's just switch to work related stuff then back to the important stuff.

DrCC wrote: It's probably not a double taper, since he did mention the word "bailingwire" Worst case senario of coupler gaulding, either cut the shaft and buy a new one, or pull the engine.

Why, you like pissing money away?

get the half seperated hards part of the job sometimes, then use a puller and it come right apart, no need to remove the engine or cut the shaft. You need to work smarter than work harder.

DrCC wrote: Worst case senario, meaning stuck so hard that a puller will bend the coupler anyway.

well if you don't know what your doing and grabing it by the flang instead of the meaty section of the coupling but worst case get a new coupling or have the old one faced which you should have done anyway.

Ben,
Just FYI if you don't want to or don't have the cash to spend on the dripless, the way to go is with the Gortex GFO packing in the existing stuffing box. Personally, I feel the dripless is over rated and really not needed.

Good news on the ARE shaft. That is a very nice product.

Ben,
Since you're putting the double taper shaft in and it makes pulling the shaft coupling easy and fast so I suggest you try the Gortex first. Then, if you don't like 1 drip per minute you can easily put in the drippless system.

What's the problem with water in the bilge? You do realize it is more the norm for a boat!