Do I need new exhaust manifolds?

boat dr wrote: Chris,all is well If........ There is a parts store near...... They have the part you need in stock...... You have the tools to R&R bad part..... gotta agree with Pete........ points and condenser only 61 years old, is it time for a EI upgrade ????

True but some of these lakes are quite remote and some are right in town too...Just seems easier to me to repair an electronic set-up verse the points,.. Both do the same job so it's realy personal preferance, I like the plug and play aspect of an electtonic ignition system, filing points is a limp mode type repair which requires additional steps later...Me I prefer one step to the repair and then enjoying the rest of the day/night/season within a couple minutes of breaking down.

But all is good some like orginal some like the look of orginal but with new technology inside, is one better than the other? that's debatable for sure with no real winners.

Chris,all is well If........
There is a parts store near......
They have the part you need in stock......
You have the tools to R&R bad part.....

gotta agree with Pete........

points and condenser only 61 years old,
is it time for a EI upgrade ????

79nautique wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Chris, I understand your point completely. You took my post out of content. It was meant as a joke and the reason I put the in it!! Yes, changing out a modual is easy but you know me I'm just not a fan of them. You'll agree that a complete distributor conversion is the way to go. Until the day comes when I do a non original distributor conversion, I'll stick with the points. If I run into a problem all I need is my wifes fingernail file!! provided that you have any contact material left to file off, stainless isn't very conductive or the condensor doesn't puck on you too and the timing wasn't too far off either before you changed the timing by filing the points. points where replaced for a reason.

Chris,
Your rationalization never ceases to amaze me. You'll come up with the wildest ideas to make a lame attempt at proving your point and not even think it through throughly! Stainless a bad conductor? Sure better than cast iron - what's the engine block made of and what is the common ground - marine or automotive? I think you had better look up the two materials resistance!!

BYW, I had plenty of the contact surface left on my 28 year old point set and the scenario here is to just make it back to the dock!

8122pbrainard wrote: Chris, I understand your point completely. You took my post out of content. It was meant as a joke and the reason I put the in it!! Yes, changing out a modual is easy but you know me I'm just not a fan of them. You'll agree that a complete distributor conversion is the way to go. Until the day comes when I do a non original distributor conversion, I'll stick with the points. If I run into a problem all I need is my wifes fingernail file!!

provided that you have any contact material left to file off, stainless isn't very conductive or the condensor doesn't puck on you too and the timing wasn't too far off either before you changed the timing by filing the points.

points where replaced for a reason. FYI I knew where you were coming from.

Pete, you're an emotocon machine nowadays. I remember when you didn't believe in them.

Pete do you always take stuff out of context?

we where talking about someone else's boat and the need to keep the points and condenser as back up, My comment was it would be easier if you just kept a spare module onboard instead, Didn't say I would, didn't say I was concerned, he was concerned so I suggested a spare module over the points and condensor.

Why is keeping a spare module better than keeping points as a back up for an electronic conversion if your the type of person worried it's going to fail and leave you stranded? Becuase it only takes two screw to remove the module and plug in a new one and your on your way. Done in about five minutes maybe less and the engine will run fine.

Now if your Electroinc conversion fails and you keep the points as back like YOU seem to suggest quite often. So the steps required for that are removing the conversion kit, mounting the plate for the points to mount to, wiring up the points, replacing the rotor with the old rotor, gapping the points, then jacking with the timing and/or gap untill you can get the engine started and adjust the timing by ear. So after about 1/2 hour if your lucky and are good at adjusting the timing on the fly then your back running. That is provided that you remembered to save the wire for the points to connect them to the coil, doesn't work with out it and you can't use the wires from the conversion unit either you just removed it, but no one ever talks about the wire that is needed to reinstall the points and saving it. Also the rotor is another common part over looked, some conversion kits actually want you to remove the cam lobe for the point's so you need to save that too

What seems easier removing two screws in less than 5 minutes or jacking with several other items for a half hour or longer?

For the record the only tools I ever carried if any at all, was a screw driver and a small adjustable wrench and a cork screw with a bottle opener on it.

Gary S wrote:

Must be a message here...check out the headline on the newspaper.

john

Wow, that's shiny now:)


So you can simply rebuild these things?

Who sells the parts?

Well, the boat is in my driveway now, so I can get to wrenching.

I will be getting the pressure gauge and also testing the dwell, and once I can locate a nice timing light that I can check total advance with I will do that too.

Pete, that's really interesting about the stock fuel pumps lasting as long as they have for you. Maybe the ethanol added to our gas down here might have prematurely worn out the diaphragms in mine?

PS, it has autolites in it, has since the gt40p's went on. They were cheaper and easier to find than the ngk's;)

I kept mine in perfect running order so there was never a need for spare parts on the boat, When you know how to turn wrenchs and tune an engine then there really isn't a need for tools or spare parts on the boat. Only time I had issue that I couldn't fix with out tools was the shaft breaking and a new coil going out within 5 hours of use.

I am going up north Tomorrow, so the boat will be here on Wednesday and I can figure this out:)

I have a feeling the fuel pump may be shot. That would explain why it can't take the load of hauling the boat out of the water under load. The accelerator pump may not be set right either, but my bet at this point is on the fuel pump. I mean, it is from 1978.

I attempted to use a new automotive holley fuel pump when I had the check valve obstruction, but that didn't fix the issue, because the fuel couldn't get to the pump. I could try that fuel pump out and if that fixes it, then buy anew marine pump.

I think my father has a dwell meter as well.

you can adjust the choke so it is that way if you don't want to use it. but typically when it is installed correctly there is tenson on the top butterfly and has the coil heats up it opens the choke

Tom,
Do you understand how the electric choke works? We can fill you in if needed!!

now are we sure the choke got stuck closed?

JoeinNY wrote: 79nautique wrote: so you've been running the boat with full choke and wonder why it's not getting any RPM's    Sounds like the problem to me..

I knocked a choke wire off my 81 last fall while winterizing and didn't notice it, within a few minutes it started missing like hell and pouring black smoke out the back. I do run colder plugs in my boat than most do though so it doesn't take much to screw it up.

I really hope this isn't the choke or Mr Horkin's gonna have some egg on his face for sure.