PROPS

Ive heard Scott say that the changes to the hull were to improve the barefoot wake...but at the time both the DX and DXII were AWSA approved waterski boats and the Outboard Sanger was the barefoot boat and its strakes run full length and that did not change so what the National sales manager says is suspect at best. Sanger gave me and my friends a DX to use in 1988 they said go foot with it...it had no plate...the wake was pretty good. I do not think anybody ever put a plate on a DX ....it's years later they put a plate on the DXII and found it had a wake judges could judge and skiers could ski. Never designed for barefooting it just happened to have a wake that worked.

I've seen later than 91 sitting on the old DX hull possibly as late as 97.

For the record, I've seen what are at least advertised as 91 model year DXs with both the full length strakes (flush with the transom) as well as the shorter ones. Appears to be a mid model year change.

Outboard to inboard is apples to oranges even if the fiverglass is identical. It's a different wake due to weight distribution and propulsion method. Hell, just a prop change on an inboard causes a noticeable change in wake.

Well alrighty then...just uh an observation...the 383 has 429ft pounds torque at 3800 rpms so running at 40 is not running wide open holeshot is quick and firm and pulls hard throughout....it really makes the boat move effortlessly and driving it so much more fun. Almost no one skis wakes faster than 47...i like 45 forwards and just 40 or 41 backwards. Its just cool to be cruising along at 40 and romp on it and zip up to 50. Throttle it hard thru a turn its just way more fun.
Hey I'm just trying to help since there is alot of confusion about Sanger models ...about the plate about the hulls. I spoke with some guys who run the dam to dam who dropped in a 6.0 in a DX that they race ---they were convinced it was nothing like a DXII wake...I had to explain he in fact had a DX riding on a DXII hull no plate...he was shocked since he had skied other plated DXII'S...I asked if he compared it to an unplated DXII? Nope never. Anyway a real DX is like an Outboard Sanger hull with an inboard engine and taller windshield.

Sangers are the shizzy!

Maybe some takeoff Vortec heads would perk yours up?

Rob I can help with a lot of info on that 88 DX...mine is a 90. One of the best things you can do is add the factory cavitation plate aka barefoot plate. It is the same one used on the DXII. Now here we get into some hull differences. An 88 should have an "original" DX hull ...the DXII hull has shortened lifting strakes see pitot mounting spot...the 88 hull should be like my 90 having full length strakes which has more similarity to the Sanger Outboard hull in design. Many DX's sit on DXII hulls...ive not seen a DXII on a DX deck though...the early 90's Sanger mixed and matched those lower hulls. So what does this all mean? It means your 88 with a plate and 400hp will have a wake as good or better than (in regard to barefoot wake slalom) a brand new 55,000 DXII. My 90 has a wake that hall of fame barefooter Willie Farrell calls it "too easy".

Hi guys sorry for the absenteeism but I am busy running my business and don't spend a lot of time online. I'm surprised how this thread went from me "spaming" to you guys helping diagnose my boat. I appreciate all the input and theories, I haven't had it out since Eddie and I ran it without a issue I believe that the issue was/is the lack of fresh air into the engine box due to the fresh air hoses not working and getting good airflow into the box, causing vapor lock. Andy the prop I have on it is a OJ 13x13, it used to get 42 mph now its only 40 on GPS, I think I lost about 200 RPM (timing?) Yes the 383 would be an awesome upgrade but I don't have a spare 9k laying around. I will build a 383 at some point, probably a 400HP one. Thanks seacamper for the prop repair. Have a great weekend guys and thanks for the help with my boat.
    Rob (PROPGUY)

GlassSeeker wrote: We've run the old carbed boats in over 100 degree weather without issues. We've seen them "load up" upon stop and shut down and becomes necessary to open throttle wide open to start. What prop does he have? My 260 would get 42 with a footer so it's really not too far off. But the rough running is strange given all that's been checked...maybe give the Rochester a kit.

Not sure what prop is on it Andy. As far as I know it's the factory one. My next thought would be a rebuild but again, I've never touched a Rochester.

GlassSeeker wrote: Of course there is the $9000 solution...a complete fi 383 Merc stroker 350hp....they plug right in.

Agreed on the 383 upgrade...LOL. I'm sure Rob would too.

Seacamper (Tom) I wish we had a before pic, that one was a little rough, I guess all that time sitting on the bottom of the lake. Thanks so much for the business!!
      Rob

I guess I am Rob's first CCF customer. Here is the 542 he finished:




It turned out great. Thanks Rob.

Eddie I know you know it's an 88. Someone started down the fuel injected road.

Crummy fuel tank? Does he normally run low fuel?

We've run the old carbed boats in over 100 degree weather without issues. We've seen them "load up" upon stop and shut down and becomes necessary to open throttle wide open to start.

What prop does he have? My 260 would get 42 with a footer so it's really not too far off. But the rough running is strange given all that's been checked...maybe give the Rochester a kit.

Hollywood wrote: 88 Sanger not 98. Should be carbed but I didn't get a look under the motorbox when he had it over. Coil could be breaking down but you should have been able to repeat the symptoms. Eddie is no hack he would have been able to diagnose the problem had it reoccurred. All is well that ends well. Hi Rob.

I said was an '88 and yes, definitely carbed with a Rochester which I know nothing about.
Forgot to mention that the coil is also new. From SkiDim specifically for Mercruisers. The old one was so corroded that terminals were almost unrecognizable. In answer to your next question, it measures 1.5 ohms as the original did and Mercruisers use a resistance wire instead of a ballast resistor. The coil gets warm but not hot by any means.

The fuel has also been replaced with new and new filter/water separator so we know that water in the fuel isn't an issue.. I had a two gallon gas can at the ready to swap in place of the fuel tank when we went for our test run but didn't have to use it so that aspect has not been verified.
All the evidence thus far does point to vapor lock but again, I'm still skeptical.

8122pbrainard wrote: Ken, Deep Blue has the DJ355 bronze 12" for $364.00 The list is $473.00.

Rob,
Can you do better than Deep Blue?

Eddie is that no-ox marine approved or telco approved

I had a car that was pron to vapor lock and the symptoms sound similar to what has been described. With the exception of the car would vapor lock while stopped in traffic (no air flow blowing through the motor compartment) heat would rise reaching the fuel lines and stall the motor. After it sat long enough it would start right up. Wrapping the fuel lines in tin foil and adding wooden close pins actually helped a little (looked horrible).

If the motor temperature is still normal vapor lock may not be the issue. Although as this boat has some years on it another issue could arise. I have seen water jackets in the heads rusted closed and the temp gauge remained normal. But probably not.

However, the boat issue sounds like it happens under load. You have checked all the normal issues with proper reasoning. The one thing I have not heard mentioned is moisture in the fuel. The boat is older and moisture can build up over time in a tank with condensation. I know you guys are aware of this but it has not been mentioned and this would happen under load. Something to look at.

At my location we see temperatures as high as 115 and as low as -20. Condensation problems are not uncommon. I do not know if this would be a problem in Florida. I store my cars and boats with a full tank of gas (less room for condensation) and Sta-Bil in the tanks. I also frequently add Chevron Techroline fuel injector cleaner to all my vehicles carbed or injected In some cases you may need to purchase specific fuel/water treatments found in cold climates.