Shaft and Prop cost

What is an estimated cost to replace shaft and prop on 84 SN 2001? Boat mech. quoted my $150.00 for swapped prop, which sounded reasonable. Includes labor, he will come to my dock to make the swap. My concern is if that does not fix the vibration then I will have to do a shaft replacement, if I understand the way these things work? Just wanted to know what that tends to run. Thanks.

Yes that includes the prop. Another question: Are the prop and shaft the only items that would make a boat vibrate? Or could there be other parts involved. I realize I need to have the mech. look at it, but just want to know more before getting in front of the mech. Knowledge is a good thing.

That is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Thanks. My guess is he is not that good and unfortunately, prob no one on the lake is. I would need to pull the boat and take it to a proper shop.

merbesfield wrote: Are the prop and shaft the only items that would make a boat vibrate? Or could there be other parts involved.

You might also want to consider having the alignment of the engine/transmission and propshaft checked. Having them not running in a straight line (within a few thousands of an inch), can cause vibrations and will cause a lot of extra wear on drive train parts. There is plenty of info here...a search will lead you in the right direction if you'd like to check it yourself.

Do you have a ski mirror?

Crystal clear image, good
Blurry image, vibration problem

AT

Sounds like you are grasping at straws. You need to take the boat out of the water, and check it out from engine mounts to prop. There are some good alignment threads, that walk you through the process. Could be a number of things contibuting to the vibration.

I have replaced the shaft, strut bushings, etc, it isnt hard work with the right tools and guidance from this site. Heck, if you find a member in the area they may come over help you....for a few beers!

8122pbrainard wrote: east tx skier wrote: If that price includes a replacement prop, then it's probably a pretty good price. If we're just talking labor, that's a lot to R&R a prop (although I don't know what a dock call premium runs). The act of replacing a prop shouldn't take more than 10 minutes, if that. Doug, 10 minutes? I notice in your signature that you're running a CNC prop. If you can R&R a prop in that amount of time then you're not doing it correctly nor following the instructions that come from Acme.

The search "expired," but I'll give it a look. When I say R&R, I'm intending to say "remove" and "replace." In other words, remove pin and loosen nut, apply prop puller, remove prop and key, put on new prop and mark seated location, put on new prop with key seated to marked location, brace prop with 2x4, tighten nut, install cotter pin. This takes me a bit longer than 10 min. I was giving the dealer a little time credit for doing it more often.

If I'm doing something wrong, I certainly want to know what it is. So far though, I have not had any adverse consequences from this method. Again, if I'm doing something wrong, I want to know what it is so I can correct it.

I wasn't addressing the vibration problem. But one other thing to check that I have personally seen cause intermittent vibration is the shaft packing. My brother in law and his dealer chased a vibration front to back in the drive train before they checked the packing, which had recently been replaced improperly resulting in a vibration in a certain rpm range.

Thanks, Pete, I'll give it a look. This is my second Acme and I can't, for the life of me, recall receiving installation instructions with either of them. I guess that's what happens when I see something shiny.

east tx skier wrote: Thanks, Pete, I'll give it a look. This is my second Acme and I can't, for the life of me, recall receiving installation instructions with either of them. I guess that's what happens when I see something shiny.

The instructions are probably at the bottom of the box!! Even if the prop isn't a CNC, it's a good practice to lap just to make sure the tapers still match. If the prop has been sent to a good prop shop and they do a bore taper reaming, then it should be lapped again. The tapers are not ground finishes so minor diferences may be present. BTW, if you see a marina skip the proceedure, that doesn't make the install correct!