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Shaft and Prop cost

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17358
Printed Date: May-03-2025 at 4:31pm


Topic: Shaft and Prop cost
Posted By: merbesfield
Subject: Shaft and Prop cost
Date Posted: May-02-2010 at 12:57am
What is an estimated cost to replace shaft and prop on 84 SN 2001? Boat mech. quoted my $150.00 for swapped prop, which sounded reasonable. Includes labor, he will come to my dock to make the swap. My concern is if that does not fix the vibration then I will have to do a shaft replacement, if I understand the way these things work? Just wanted to know what that tends to run. Thanks.



Replies:
Posted By: east tx skier
Date Posted: May-02-2010 at 2:22am
If that price includes a replacement prop, then it's probably a pretty good price. If we're just talking labor, that's a lot to R&R a prop (although I don't know what a dock call premium runs). The act of replacing a prop shouldn't take more than 10 minutes, if that. I'm not sure what the book says the time to do that is.

I had a shaft replaced on someone else's boat that I happened to be driving when things went wrong.

R&R the shaft, and engine alignment ran about $300--$400 plus the cost of the shaft. This was a long time ago so I am going on a fading memory on the cost. Skidim has the shaft and coupler listed at between $300--$400. I've heard of people having shafts straightened to very tight tolerances, but, in my case, it was a bit too far gone for that.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2383&sort=&pagenum=7&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422.





Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: May-02-2010 at 2:33am
Yes that includes the prop. Another question: Are the prop and shaft the only items that would make a boat vibrate? Or could there be other parts involved. I realize I need to have the mech. look at it, but just want to know more before getting in front of the mech. Knowledge is a good thing.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-02-2010 at 10:13am
Mark,
If the $150 includes the prop, then I'd have to say you're getting a used prop. Depending on what the prop is, that's still cheap!

The prop should be tuned/balanced so you know it's not the prop causing the vibration.

Originally posted by east tx skier east tx skier wrote:

If that price includes a replacement prop, then it's probably a pretty good price. If we're just talking labor, that's a lot to R&R a prop (although I don't know what a dock call premium runs). The act of replacing a prop shouldn't take more than 10 minutes, if that.

Doug,
10 minutes? I notice in your signature that you're running a CNC prop. If you can R&R a prop in that amount of time then you're not doing it correctly nor following the instructions that come from Acme.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/search_results_posts.asp?SearchID=20100502070452&KW=proper+prop - proper prop thread

Mark,
Somethings not correct with the pricing. Get some more details.

While this mechanic is under the boat, he should be using a dial indicator to check the prop shaft both forward and aft of the strut to see if it's bent. If he doesn't, then he's not helping you finding the vibration problem. If he doesn't have a dial indicator, he's not the person to help so find someone else.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: May-02-2010 at 2:27pm
That is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Thanks. My guess is he is not that good and unfortunately, prob no one on the lake is. I would need to pull the boat and take it to a proper shop.


Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-02-2010 at 5:47pm
How many hours on your '84?

There comes a point where its a good idea to replace high wear items so you don't end up fixing everything at once.

If it is a high hour boat you might consider replacing the shaft and coupler along with the bearing in the strut. Re-align everything when done. Next year do the prop. SkiDim sells the alberts shaft system which is a nicely crafted piece.

Anybody running a 20+ year old boat should just plan on throwing $200-$500 in the boat every year for new parts. Its a great way to keep it running right and not have excessive maintenance bills jump up.

Tim

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Posted By: LaurelLakeSkier
Date Posted: May-02-2010 at 6:18pm
Originally posted by merbesfield merbesfield wrote:

Are the prop and shaft the only items that would make a boat vibrate? Or could there be other parts involved.

You might also want to consider having the alignment of the engine/transmission and propshaft checked. Having them not running in a straight line (within a few thousands of an inch), can cause vibrations and will cause a lot of extra wear on drive train parts. There is plenty of info here...a search will lead you in the right direction if you'd like to check it yourself.


Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: May-03-2010 at 12:21am
Unfortunately, I do not know the hours. The meter broke at 242 and it has to have way more than that given the age. I ran the boat this weekend and funny/sad as it is, did not know that my mechanic had already changed the prop. So that being said, I think he needs to look at the shaft bc it felt exactly the same to me, with the new prop. I did not even know he had changed. When we got back to the dock, I grabbed my camera to take some pics of the old prop, and low and behold, it was changed. So that is not a good feeling. Again. I have no base line to judge a vibration. I am sure all boats vibrate, just not sure what is normal and vs. abnormal.


Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: May-04-2010 at 2:02pm
Do you have a ski mirror?

Crystal clear image, good
Blurry image, vibration problem

AT


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-04-2010 at 2:24pm
the alignment is the first place to look, then the shaft then the strut bushings.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: May-04-2010 at 5:29pm
Sounds like you are grasping at straws. You need to take the boat out of the water, and check it out from engine mounts to prop. There are some good alignment threads, that walk you through the process. Could be a number of things contibuting to the vibration.

I have replaced the shaft, strut bushings, etc, it isnt hard work with the right tools and guidance from this site. Heck, if you find a member in the area they may come over help you....for a few beers!


Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: May-04-2010 at 5:35pm
Hey,I just noticed you are at Lake Rabon. I live in Abbeville. If you need some help let me know. You could call Gunnels marine on lake greenwood, Barnie is a very good Correct Craft mechanic, not the cheapest, but, he has been around them a long time and knows our boats pretty well.


Posted By: east tx skier
Date Posted: May-05-2010 at 3:30pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Originally posted by east tx skier east tx skier wrote:

If that price includes a replacement prop, then it's probably a pretty good price. If we're just talking labor, that's a lot to R&R a prop (although I don't know what a dock call premium runs). The act of replacing a prop shouldn't take more than 10 minutes, if that.

Doug,
10 minutes? I notice in your signature that you're running a CNC prop. If you can R&R a prop in that amount of time then you're not doing it correctly nor following the instructions that come from Acme.


The search "expired," but I'll give it a look. When I say R&R, I'm intending to say "remove" and "replace." In other words, remove pin and loosen nut, apply prop puller, remove prop and key, put on new prop and mark seated location, put on new prop with key seated to marked location, brace prop with 2x4, tighten nut, install cotter pin. This takes me a bit longer than 10 min. I was giving the dealer a little time credit for doing it more often.

If I'm doing something wrong, I certainly want to know what it is. So far though, I have not had any adverse consequences from this method. Again, if I'm doing something wrong, I want to know what it is so I can correct it.

I wasn't addressing the vibration problem. But one other thing to check that I have personally seen cause intermittent vibration is the shaft packing. My brother in law and his dealer chased a vibration front to back in the drive train before they checked the packing, which had recently been replaced improperly resulting in a vibration in a certain rpm range.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2383&sort=&pagenum=7&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422.





Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-05-2010 at 5:45pm
Originally posted by east tx skier east tx skier wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Originally posted by east tx skier east tx skier wrote:

If that price includes a replacement prop, then it's probably a pretty good price. If we're just talking labor, that's a lot to R&R a prop (although I don't know what a dock call premium runs). The act of replacing a prop shouldn't take more than 10 minutes, if that.

Doug,
10 minutes? I notice in your signature that you're running a CNC prop. If you can R&R a prop in that amount of time then you're not doing it correctly nor following the instructions that come from Acme.


The search "expired," but I'll give it a look. When I say R&R, I'm intending to say "remove" and "replace." In other words, remove pin and loosen nut, apply prop puller, remove prop and key, put on new prop and mark seated location, put on new prop with key seated to marked location, brace prop with 2x4, tighten nut, install cotter pin. This takes me a bit longer than 10 min. I was giving the dealer a little time credit for doing it more often.

If I'm doing something wrong, I certainly want to know what it is. So far though, I have not had any adverse consequences from this method. Again, if I'm doing something wrong, I want to know what it is so I can correct it.

I wasn't addressing the vibration problem. But one other thing to check that I have personally seen cause intermittent vibration is the shaft packing. My brother in law and his dealer chased a vibration front to back in the drive train before they checked the packing, which had recently been replaced improperly resulting in a vibration in a certain rpm range.

Doug,
I don't know why the link expired but maybe when Keith was making changes to the site the other day something happened.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12866&KW=proper+prop&PID=145077&title=span-classhighlightproper-span-span-classhighlightprop-span-installation#145077 - Here's the thread on proper prop insatllation again

I understand the R&R but the thread is concerning lapping a new CNC prop to the shaft. The advice comes with every set of instructions for Acme.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: east tx skier
Date Posted: May-05-2010 at 5:57pm
Thanks, Pete, I'll give it a look. This is my second Acme and I can't, for the life of me, recall receiving installation instructions with either of them. I guess that's what happens when I see something shiny.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2383&sort=&pagenum=7&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422.





Posted By: east tx skier
Date Posted: May-05-2010 at 6:04pm
I learn something new every day. I have never in my life heard of having to do this with a CNC finished prop. Where can I pick up the grinding compound? Auto supply store?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2383&sort=&pagenum=7&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422.





Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-05-2010 at 6:11pm
Originally posted by east tx skier east tx skier wrote:

Thanks, Pete, I'll give it a look. This is my second Acme and I can't, for the life of me, recall receiving installation instructions with either of them. I guess that's what happens when I see something shiny.

The instructions are probably at the bottom of the box!! Even if the prop isn't a CNC, it's a good practice to lap just to make sure the tapers still match. If the prop has been sent to a good prop shop and they do a bore taper reaming, then it should be lapped again. The tapers are not ground finishes so minor diferences may be present. BTW, if you see a marina skip the proceedure, that doesn't make the install correct!

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: east tx skier
Date Posted: May-05-2010 at 8:33pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by east tx skier east tx skier wrote:

Thanks, Pete, I'll give it a look. This is my second Acme and I can't, for the life of me, recall receiving installation instructions with either of them. I guess that's what happens when I see something shiny.

The instructions are probably at the bottom of the box!! Even if the prop isn't a CNC, it's a good practice to lap just to make sure the tapers still match. If the prop has been sent to a good prop shop and they do a bore taper reaming, then it should be lapped again. The tapers are not ground finishes so minor diferences may be present. BTW, if you see a marina skip the proceedure, that doesn't make the install correct!


Ha! I still have the box. I may need to give it a look.

My mechanic is a pretty thorough guy and has been with Correct Craft for a long time, but I don't recall seeing him do this the one time I had him install a prop for me (before I had a puller). I suppose I ought to ask him next time I'm in there.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2383&sort=&pagenum=7&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422.






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