Boat Dr. shell oil question

You can get royal purple direct, for a much better price. I buy it in 5 gallon jugs delivered for $120 last time I bought it. I will have to check on the price now.

When I buy it, yes I get it shipped direct to me. I will have to find the number at home. I try to do it tonight, but I should have it by tomorrow night for sure. When I find it I will call and see what the price is.

79nautique wrote: Tim you read to much into a comment. What makes more since use existing parts and increase the volumes or create something new in lower volumes? what cost more what cost less? Try something new or use a proven design specification? The 4.3 was designed specifically for small trucks. Why create a new transmission for this application. If you knew how GM approaches new designs you would understand. GM is cheap and if they can use existing parts on the shelf they will every time. It reduces overall cost, reduces part numbers, reduces records i.e. drawings, reduces overall time to market all are very key elements in mass production of anything.

Chris, I understand completely. Im not knocking the 4.3 or GM. Im just saying that it does have a lot in common with the 350- which has obviously withstood the test of time.

ryanandrews wrote: the zinc is for metal to metal contact in which hopefully your oil is preventing this

Exactly. There are few places that have higher loading and a larger metal-metal contact area than between the cam and flat tappet lifter. In non-scientific terms, oils with the zinc will "stick" to the metal surfaces better than the newer oils without the additives- especially synthetics which have been described as too "slippery". While these new oils work wonders in today's high tech engines to decrease emissions and increase efficiency, they dont offer enough protection for our old-tech Fords.

i need scientific proof, not marketing schemes, i have scientific proof on this 4.3.. no synthetics, no snake oils, nothing special just a good old fashioned oil change.
I have yet to seen a sludged boat engine or one so worn out that it was steaming blow by, except for a 68 Chris which the guy never changed his oil.
boat engines get 10 times the attention from the owners as do thier cars and will the synthetics and snake oils work.... over time maybe i would say 100 years or so. I have yet to see a post on here from someone complaining about an oil related engine issue.

I think you guy's are missing the boat on the green movement, perhaps a blend of vegetable oil for the SBC and used cooking oil for the Fords.

behindpropeller wrote: You guys are pretty ignorant that you don't even take the time to read through my link.

Thats a pretty bold statement, especially since you have no idea if anyone read it or not (I did). Rather, its simply that no one has chosen to comment on it.

The point is that the technology is out there, but you guys follow your tails around without looking at all of the options.

Geno wrote: 25 clams a pint. OUCH.

Exactly.

From what I can tell, ASL seems to be good stuff. They certainly have a lot of data to back up their bold claims. It does seem like overkill, though- especially at $15+ per oil change. My motor has over 1200 hours on it and the internals looked great when I tore the top end down- no signs of pitting or corrosion. Using the proper oil and changing it regularly is all that the motor needs.

If you want to run it, go ahead. It probably wont hurt anything besides your wallet.

Tim, I did read it but it came across to me too much like a unproven additive.

Look at the oil burning on this one! He must not be using the Camgaurd!


Tim, just kidding here!

Bruce, remember that ALL oils had the zinc up until a few years ago. Now theres only a few left that do. Munday wiped a lobe on his cam 250 hours after making the switch to Mobil1, which is a very good oil, but didnt have the zinc. Is it worth the risk?

Bruce, glad to bring you up to speed. No need to change over on your newer Chevy- it should be all roller and wont be susceptible to cam failure like the Fords if run without the additives. It wont do any harm though, if you prefer to run the same oil in both for the sake of convenience.

Interesting to read you guys blab on all day about ZDDP when the number one thing that will kill 99% of boat engines is CORROSION[/QUOTE]

IMHO you’re being a bit harsh and bit judgmental, expecting a comment to this post is basically looking for an argument (trolling some would say).

You start by telling thoughtful people trying to be helpful that they are blabbing and chasing their tails and then you make an unreasonably bold comment out of nowhere that corrosion is going to kill 99% of boat engines.   Additionally, you do it in bold with a large size font, the Internet equilvent of shouting at us.

Where is your evidence on that ground? In my experience improper winterizing kills most inboard engines, most two stroke engines die because of incorrect oil mixture or injection failure, overheating is the next highest killer, and improper assembly/part failures come next in line, water in the gas has cost me an engine as well, rarely with enough hours one will just plain old wear out. Internal (non water passage) corrosion may get %99 of plane engines but it is most likely closer to %5 percent of boat engines. Only once have I have had corrosion be the cause in boat engine failure but that was a two stroke left sitting improperly winterized for 4 years and not relevant.

In fact none of these are relevant in the current thread and I wouldn't expect anyone to comment on them either.

Oil formulation including the zinc is relevant with flat tappet cams, and probably contributed to two cam failures for me in the last 2 years so people aren’t chasing their tails just sharing pertinent research. We are all wrong on some things from time to time and that’s why we come here to share information and learn but no one wants to be yelled at baited into an argument or called ignorant ..

anthonylizardi wrote: Multi visc? Can you have a real advantage using multi-visc on boats? I guess I just opened another can of worms.

yes it does help especially on start-up

outside temps really doesn't make a difference, I always used 20w-50 racing oil in mine.

At the Ford Muscle website Comp cams confirms that Rotella T is the oil to use:

"Comp is recommending that flat-tappet camshaft owners use Shell’s Rotella T oils. Since that line of oil is primarily developed for diesel engines, Comp says the oil makeup contains many of the additives that many of the newer oils are lacking.

Comp Cams also points out that a successful break-in also relies on using proper lifters. They caution that many of the imported lifters lack appropriate manufacturing tolerances, which can result in a lifter that doesn’t spin in its bore, or provides inadquate oiling to the cam lobe."

I guess my balance is tilted towards Rotella T