Boat Dr. shell oil question

Does anyone know if the ZDDP additive added in todays non zinc oils equals the protection of the old oils with the zinc? Is the ZDDP additive the real thing? If the EPA has forced it's removal, can they sell it or is it different? I'm just thinking along the same lines as lead substitute. I'm one who doesn't believe in the lead substitute for gas since there isn't a true substitute for lead. Seems there may be some snake oil mixed in with the additive!

SNobsessed wrote: I have a friend who has an '82 SN with 2500 hours, has only done scheduled maintenance & he said he has used quaker state 10W30 the whole time. Maybe some of this has to do with how hard you run your boat.

I guess that goes to show you that nothing takes the place of regular maintenance. I havent heard good things about Quaker State oil.

It should be noted that the elimination of the zinc happened recently (within the last 5 years, I would guess). The latest oils to lose it are the diesel oils (within the last year or so), which most boat engines used. Its not a valid comparison to cite a case of a reliable engine running "non-zinc" oils if your reference point is more than a few years old, as all oils used to have it not very long ago.

Pete, I havent read a ton on oil additives that contain ZDDP- but I can tell you that theres no clear consensus. Some say the additives do more harm than good, some say they dont have enough ZDDP to be worthwhile. I found it easier simply to switch to a quality oil with the right ingredients.

trb- .. an additive package contains zinc and phosphourus..rotella t has a very high levels of zinc..the average levels in rotella t has 1315 ppm..phosphurus is 1132 ppm..much higher than many high end oils..almost identical to amsoil..let me guess you know it all though...it rivals redline which sells for 12/quart..so whats wrong with rotella??..thousnad of superbike racers and riders run it our engines which are a lot more tempremental than a standard 351 etc..its used in trucks semis and high high end machinery..but yet you seem to believe its not good enough for your boat?..keep paying more, its your money not mine

id keep rollin with the rotella t..better than running any shelf oil you will find..only the high end stuff is equal or better..amsoil redline royal purple etc

only a handful of companies produce their own base stock..spending more money on a cetain type of oil doesnt mean its better.car oils have less zinc due to them damaging the catalitic converter..

the zinc is for metal to metal contact in which hopefully your oil is preventing this, if not the zinc reacts and acts to prevent scuffing and wear.the higher the amount of zinc doesnt give you more protection just longer if your motor expierences scuffing and wear for a longer time..too much zinc is bad cause it cna lead to deposits and plug fouling..
anyways i can ramble on ...my 2 cents

rotella t does have the additive package zddp...

I understand it on the old engines, but how does this play out on a modern vortec chevy engine with a roller cam? The diesel 15w40 oils are good for those aren't they?

the biggest thing with the oil conversation is make sure you check it and change it at its scheduled intervals, oil is a lubricant and provides a thin barrier so the wearables do not actually touch, such as rings, lifters and so on
the only engines i ever see that fail are the ones with the lack of oil allowing metal to metal contact. im up in the air on the chemical makeup of the oils. as noted on an earlier posting the 4.3 chevy i tore down had no special oils added, the thing is he changed on schedule and never ran it low. upon inspection of the engine it was not sludged up and the cylinder bores were at 4.00 with no ridge at the top. the engine had 194000 miles on it. i would of thought the engine had 20 or 30 k on it. this of course is only my opinion and i am a skeptic and this engines proves that regular oil changes and not running them low is what extends the life, it had no synthetics or snake oils and so on....

eric lavine wrote: the biggest thing with the oil conversation is make sure you check it and change it at its scheduled intervals, oil is a lubricant and provides a thin barrier so the wearables do not actually touch, such as rings, lifters and so on the only engines i ever see that fail are the ones with the lack of oil allowing metal to metal contact. im up in the air on the chemical makeup of the oils. as noted on an earlier posting the 4.3 chevy i tore down had no special oils added, the thing is he changed on schedule and never ran it low. upon inspection of the engine it was not sludged up and the cylinder bores were at 4.00 with no ridge at the top. the engine had 194000 miles on it. i would of thought the engine had 20 or 30 k on it. this of course is only my opinion and i am a skeptic and this engines proves that regular oil changes and not running them low is what extends the life, it had no synthetics or snake oils and so on....

The 4.3 Chevy is a pretty reliable engine for whatever reason. I drove a work van with the 4.3 to the emissions test facility during a summer job with over 200k on the clock. Still had plenty of spunk- I could do full burnouts in it, I can tell you that. Anyway, the emissions test guy said he sees the 4.3's come back year after year with insanely high miles.

with 200 on the ticker i would of thought those cylinders would be out a few thousandth's. the spec was 4.00 and every cylinder was within a thousandth or so. no ridge at the top and so on. Ive had them with 80000 on them and tore them apart and they were junk, oil sludged, cylinders egg shaped with a heavy ridge at the top and of course the crank wiped.
my point on the above post is he changed his oil regularly and always checks the oil. he never overheated the engine. he doesnt use special oils or synthetics,

TRBenj wrote: M3Fan wrote: The 4.3 Chevy is a pretty reliable engine for whatever reason. I believe the 4.3 is simply a Chevy 350 with 2 cylinders lopped off. Talk about a proven design! I sure dont know my Chevy history, but I believe that the SBC's (and likely the 4.3?) have been roller for some time.

wrong the blocks aren't even close to being the same any where.

they also run a balance shaft above the cam for balance and vibes, over the last few years i have probably put 6 or so crank kits in them, pretty durable engine except for the cranks, it does look like a sbc with 2 less cylinders,

I just happened to be ready to make an oil change. So, on a 1984 Commander, I should pick Shell Rotalla T 40 weight. I have learned correctly?

taxabel wrote: I just happened to be ready to make an oil change. So, on a 1984 Commander, I should pick Shell Rotalla T 40 weight. I have learned correctly?

Yes, either Rotella 30w or 40w, or Valvoline VR1 (which comes in 10w30, 20w50 or 50w).

tr-where you gettin it for 10 15- 40 synthetic?..i guess iam..as long as your running oil with it filled properly and change it every 50 hours im sure you will be ok..ok on a serious note your saying rotella t 40 weight dino or valvoline vr1 is better than the 15-40 synthetic?.what about the pennzoil 15-40?...thats what i have been running in my nautique..i run rotella in my 01 dodge durango and 2004 gsxr 750..no problems yet..enlighten me, and im really not trying to be an ass here..

The Zinc has been removed from all their oils BUT 40T and 30T,how much plainer than that .Back up and read the previous posts...................boat dr