Ski Nautique 2001 Restomod

I ran the vent hoses around the battery box similar to the original design.

The stringers were constructed of 3/4" coosa. Doubled up on the stringers side by side for an 1 1/2" thickness. I layed a layer of chop mat over the stringers with a 2" flange to the hull, second layer was 1708 with a 4" flange to the hull. Probably overkill but I went with a third layer of chop mat with a 6" flange to the hull. Floor was 1/2" coosa with chop mat laminated underneath. Chop mat on top overlapping the stringers. A layer of 1708 over that. The white material is duratech, a marine grade bondo-type material. I used it as filler in cracks to help prevent leaking from the ballast.

Wow. Pretty extensive work there.
Curious, How is fresh air supplied to the engine box?

removable area was always wood. Section from the pylon to the dash was wood.   Under dash is fiberglass over foam. Sections beside engine and rear removable floor were fiberglass over foam.   Glass was about 3/16 thick chop strand.   it also use to curve outboard a little so water would channel outboard and to the rear.   

I made my floor out of coosa and nyda core.   Used nyda core since someone gave me a 4x8 sheet that was glassed on both sides.   Used nyda core for removable section behind engine and the section from the pylon to dash.   Coosa for rest., I also made the section under the dash removable with NO hump.   Left it bare coosa with carpet on top, I ran vent hosed all the way forward to the lifting ring then under the deck and ran back to engine.   The wires and control cables are on the outboard part of the removable deck, notched it out.   Made the forward part more user friendly and lightened it some.   I did cut a battery box and storage access panel between the seats and made lid out of coosa with carpet only, no glass.   

Made the panel that covers the gas tank out of coosa. 3 pieces.   center piece is the size of the removable deck.   made it lock in place using only 2 machine screws at the bottom.   Again made this section more user friendly.   Removable rear deck is not fastened down. I put notch blocks under it and notched the stringers to prevent the deck from moving forward or aft. The engine box holds it down on front end and the gas tank panel holds it down aft. I did not cut an access for the shaft log as I did not see the need for that in a boat that is kept on a trailer. I used GFO packing so it doesn't need that much adjustment after it was broken in.   (new shaft also)

Better check that memory again... it wouldn’t have been ply from the (cc) factory.

Except that rear removable panel, of course.

Or Coosa board

JoeinNY wrote: There would have been no plywood on that floor to begin with – in the front part of the boat there would have been 1X boards under the seats but most of the boat was just fiberglass over foam.   I would remove the plywood in there for sure and see what is hiding under it. After that a boat that you are considering putting money into I wouldn't put any plywood into as a base – treated plywood doesn't take glass well unless it is super well dried out – like in the sun for months dried out. Untreated plywood needs to be super well sealed or it will be breached by water which will spread out along the layers and make for an unrepairable mess.   If you are going to smooth and paint the flooring there is no way I would even consider any wood as being the base.

Then what would you recommend laying down? Originally there were rotten pine planks over rotten stringers and soaked foam. That has all already been removed and replaced with new fiberglass stringers and foam and a new plywood deck that was then painted with a sealing type paint. I actually didn't mean treated plywood though, I meant BC plywood. Which is what I've seen installed in most floors before laying fiberglass. And I'm honestly asking what should be put down as a good base because this is my first project boat and I have no experience but can mostly figure anything out! I just want to make sure to put the right materials back down for a longer lasting base.

You do not fiberglass over treated wood.

Sounds like a great project. Post lots of pics of the tear-down and rebuild because we all (mostly) like to see the progress! I'm in the middle of a semi-mod/resto myself with a completion I estimate to be early to mid June. I love doing this type of stuff, and it has a plus of keeping my spare time full. Only down side is this one is now on a very accelerated schedule from what I had originally planned. My wife is already asking what I'll be doing afterward, what project I'm going to take up next

Good luck and have fun!!   

phatsat67 wrote: Also FYI, the new drivers seat is stupid expensive. The older model fits better in a smaller 2001 (that BFN has a much larger interior than your boat). I run the previous model seat in my boat with the flip up bolster (bolster us useless), but the seat is comfy and fits great,

Yeah I was thinking that about the drivers seat. I knew it would be stupid expensive. Good thing is I still have the original seat bucket and mounting base and both are in good shape. I'll just have to construct a new seat bottom and re-upholster it all. I figured that's what I would be doing anyways to start just to save a little money.

Looks like a cool project in the making. Looking forward to seeing how it goes.

Also FYI, the new drivers seat is stupid expensive. The older model fits better in a smaller 2001 (that BFN has a much larger interior than your boat). I run the previous model seat in my boat with the flip up bolster (bolster us useless), but the seat is comfy and fits great,

Yeah I'm 90% positive it's an 86. Def not an 87 as I believe they changed the bow design in 87 (the difference can be seen between my boat and the 88 from N3 that I posted above). I didn't get a chance to check it yesterday as we had a terrible thunderstorm here yesterday eveing. I am still learning a lot about these older boats! I just turned 35 and figured this would be a perfect project for somebody my age to familiarize myself with the heritage of my G23's ancestors!! I also just got done reading the "Parting the Waters" book about the history of Correct Craft/Nautique!! Great read!

As for the hinged seats... I'm definitely looking into those as well as upgrading the captains chair to the style of the newest Nautiques like in my G23. I know this is going to be extremely costly but I don't want to cheap out. I'd rather take my time and do this the way I want. I'm really hoping my dealer can work with me on getting a lot of the parts for this build such as the hinges on those bench seat which I believe are the same hinges from the newer G boats as well with the pull out folding seats. I also have a little connection myself at Nautique as I know Steve Carlton (kind of) who is the chief engineer/designer of the G series boats. Maybe he can help hook me up as well. I gotta be careful though that I don't get carried away right off the bat and make myself broke trying to do all of it asap...I have a tendency to do this!

Where can I read more about that Barefoot? Specifically those hinged seats.

I'll be watching Brian's build also since we are building almost the same boat.

rebel skier wrote: It is an 85 or 86 with that stripe, dash, and hood scoop.

Yeah I'm thinking 86 based on the colors of the stripe (dark blue with the lighter blue pinstriping).

Here are some pictures of N3's restomodded '88 which I am using as a model for my restomod. The interior will be a full one off custom fairly similar to what's shown here in this 88 (maybe not AS intricate as this though - funds will be the determining factor there)!! I plan on getting rid of all of the remaining wood that I can. Probably try to fiberglass the floor entirely for longevity. Again, I am fairly new to this and will be learning/experimenting with everything along the way!! But I'm a huge DIY'er and love learning new things!