New 2001 owner

Netdewt wrote: Sorry I didn't do the GPS with this prop. It was roughly 4500 rpm at 45mph

Netdewt wrote: I had the 2068 repaired. It has slightly less top end than before. It maxes out at about 42mph. I'd recommend PropMD to anyone looking for a good shop, and they will work with out of town customers.

You recommend losing 3 mph?

lewy2001 wrote: Netdewt wrote: lewy2001 wrote: The 2068 is just a 470 with more cup. Would not be my first choice for a 89 but should work OK. What would be? My first choice would be a 422 second choice 1442 and third choice a 470 if primary use was all round water sports and not loading the boat up a lot. If it were for a loaded boat I would reverse the order of preference 470 1442 422 Your current Acme 2068 is the same spec as a 470 (12.5" dia 15" pitch) but with a bit more cup (0.150 the 470 has 0.105 cup). They normally add cup to try and bring the rpm down at WOT to keep the engine in it's working rpm band. Considering you already have the 2068 it should work just fine, much better than the factory cast prop supplied. Get some GPS speed numbers and rpm with the ACME 2068 and post.

Sorry I didn't do the GPS with this prop. It was roughly 4500 rpm at 45mph and followed that curve until it came off plane under 15mph. ie 3000 rpm at 30 mph, maybe 2200 rpm at 20 mph.

I've been getting steadily 3.8 gallons per engine hour with 100 gallons burned so far.

EDIT: I'm actually getting the 2068 repaired by PropMD. I will also be getting a 422, that way I have 2 good props. My old original spare is simply awful.

I fixed the fuel level sender and swapped to a black bezel on the depth gauge.




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I didn't fix the lower dash panel yet, and I still have lots of dead bugs in the left speedometer gauge.

Cams and headers out unless I rebuild someday.

EFI out. HEI in. Is the $350 DUI worth it? There are many cheaper ones.

I have to replace my fuel sender. I found some posts praising this one from Wema. I'm thinking a 9.5" would work? Has anyone used this sender?
http://wemausa.3dcartstores.com/SSSSSL-Diesel-Fuel-or-Water-Level-Sensor-4--60-in_p_9.html

Also for future - was a perfect pass ever made to match Airguide gauges? I'm not finishing it so far but maybe the ring can be retrofit? A ski instructor recommended perfect pass to me, not sure I'll ever have a need.

OK. Heads. I'll have to look that up. I'm not a mechanic, I have to do a lot of research before any endeavor.

I have a friend that recommended EFI for simplicity. The motor has a Holley on it. I don't know if that's stock or not.

Is this the electronic ignition you mentioned? http://performancedistributors.com/product/marine-dui-distributors/

what fuel savings are said to be had would take years and years to recover. there is no performance advantage

i think you mean heads not headers. stock manifolds flow pretty decent

Do the Acme asap.

Forget the cam (not enough improvement over stock to justify the expense IMO)

GT40p heads yes

EFI conversion absolutely not

stock distributor is not electronic, upgrade that as well (DUI)

I'm pretty sure it should be Boaty Mcboatface.

Exactly !

You only name a big boat that's documented with the USCG.
And, it's bad joo-joo to change the name of a boat.

Decals for '89 are available thru one of the dealers, Someone had them reproduced (they were NA for a while).

Many guys have removed the decals, wet sanded & buffed, then put new stickers on. You will get many compliments at boat ramp!

The hull rash can be repaired by you. Matching gelcote can be purchased thru several suppliers, one of which is Minicraft. It is messy but not hard, just takes time.

In some states, all you need is a chrome whistle like your coach had.
Water patrol will sometimes hand-out free plastic whistles with their emblem printed right on the whistle.

Sorry Nate, do not know where Tim came from.

My horn is anemic as well and I am looking to replace.

On your carpet, I would wither patch as mentioned for now until a proper carpet replacement is done.

The horn is pretty straight forward for the wiring. if memory serves me correct, the horn is in the vent box under the dash. I thought my horn was busted, but it turns out the PO just wired it incorrectly. I tested the horn with a small 12v dewalt battery to make sure it worked before wiring it back up. We also had one of those small canister air horns while the horn wasn't working.

Nate,
Since the gauge worked at the lower end, it sounds like a sender issue. To rule out the gauge, remove the sender wire off the tank sender and ground it. The sender wire will be the wire attached to the terminal on the sender. The ground will be the round mounting plate of the sender. The gauge should peg to max. If so, the gauge is good and confirms the problem is the tank sender itself. Replacing the sender is easy but in most cases requires the tank to be pulled forward so the sender can be removed vertically. The sender is a linear resistor (potentiometer) and they can after sitting get a slight layer of corrosion on the resister wire face. Run the boat and fill it a couple times and see if it clears up The action of the senders wiper up and down on the wire may clean it up. It's just like a old volume control on an old radio when you would twist the knob back and forth to clear up the sound.

AAM196 wrote: GlassSeeker wrote: Tubing is fine as long as each ride ends in the ejection of all tube riders from tube...that's how you teach kids about tubing...you are at the mercy of the boat driver...dont you want a handle now? And to be able to steer yourself? Haha... so true. I love turning to the kids so... who wants to tube? No thanks Dad/Uncle Andy... I don't think my body can handle it... maybe a slalom, wakeskate or barefoot run.. but please,.. no tubing.

That's my new approach to convincing them to ski.