1993 SN Throttle Friction ?

So bottom line your saying that with N3 a Nautique dealer, in selling me my 95 who's throttle does not return is liable for any accident or injury? You would think a Nautique dealer would check an important safety feature such as that.

Eddie: My mistake, I thought we were just talking about throttle mechanisms on this thread not ski boat attributes; in which i might add hull design plays as much or more of an important role in the ideal wake than the manner of propulsion....

Speaking for all us bastard stepchildren on the site who have and prefer a deep V, anytime you want to ride in a boat that doesn't "suck" for any or all the reasons that yours apparently does, just let me know...

WOW! If this thread is still alive next spring I will video tape the controls and see what we think. The beer comment was an analogy. If I have a hand on the wheel during a turn pulling a skier, tube, etc. and have to let go of the throttle for a second 'cause I turned into a wake, hmm wasnt' watching everything, and got a bump and had to grab the side of the boat for a second, burmmmmmm the boat slows down more then just a trickle or a bit. Hey, I agree with the boat SN is a tool for pulling skiers. Best boat, best wake, best.   

Again, I have to respectfully disagree with you Gary about the safety aspect.

Our boats were designed for a sole purpose. Pulling a skier. They were engineered from day one to be fitted with an inboard. Every one of us pretty much agree that our boats suck in rough water, they suck for space, they suck for getting around the cockpit, they suck for comfort. But they do one thing better than any other boat.....pulling a skier. Ski boats have evolved to provide more space, or comfort or rough water riding than another but in virtually every case, that robs from Peter to pay Paul and ultimately the skier suffers. There isn't a person on this site who can disagree that a closed bow tournament boat still, without question, provides the finest wake, tracking and performance for a skier. Not a wakeboarder or tuber or sky skier or show skier or even a barefooter. All of those skiing regimens evolved from the original intended purpose. Pulling a skier.
The only engineering incorporated into an outboard is to propel a hull through the water. Any hull and any type of water for virtually any purpose. These engines and their controls were never designed purely for the purpose of pulling a skier.

My boat unquestionably is the ultimate tool for pulling a skier. I can shift it with one finger either forward or reverse. I can pull a skier out of the hole with my arm resting on a very comfortable rest and nothing more than my thumb on the throttle. During the run I can throttle up by more thumb pressure or releasing thumb pressure lets you slow down instantly. How can you not consider that a huge safety aspect? I'm providing the best, safest pull for my skier.
I don't care about why or how it doesn't do what an outboard does or God forbid, that I can't drink a beer while driving. Should we realty get into that little safety debate?????.

If drinking a beer while driving is so damn paramount, buy an outboard. If you want a pure skiing machine, there is nothing on this planet that compares to our boats. I've pretty much on every response here. Apples and oranges. No comparison.

Eddie I would agree that historically you always had to kind of jam an outboard into gear with unpleasant sounds, my aunt had a Force that was absolutely rediculous, and the Evinrude on my brothers Sutphen took considerable persuasion.

However, times have changed. Having spent some time recently running a 2015 Yamaha with Yamaha throttle assembly, I would say it was the smoothest shifting boat, of any type, that I have ever driven, bar none.....unbelievable, smooth as silk. The downside was it was so quiet, virtually silent, that I once almost tried to start it while it was already running. ..

LPSL save lives...and apparently almost starters as well....

74Wind wrote: Gary S wrote: backfoot100 wrote: The correlation between the shifting and throttle characteristics of an outboard and a velvet drive inboard are two completely different animals and shouldn't even be mentioned in the same thread. Apples and oranges. Sorry to disagree Eddie,you use one lever it puts whatever transmission in gear and as you move that lever it opens the throttle,the control not caring what it's connected to. Here is the opening paragraph in the MV3 instructions- The Morse MV-3 Control is designed to provide convenient, one hand, single lever operation of shift and throttle for most popular outboards, sport jets, inboards equipped with hydraulic reverse gears and Berkeley or similar jet pumps. +1

I wasn't talking about the engineered physical operation of outboard throttle controls. I've driven single, twin and triple rig outboards. Every one you've had to stab it into gear to keep it from grinding gears. They're hard to shift and have considerably more friction running all the way through the RPM range then any velvet drive inboard I've ever driven.
That's what I was getting at..
Spend a day behind the wheel driving a figure eight barefoot tournament with a world class outboard barefoot boat and you'll find out really quick that the controls pretty much suck compared to our boats. There is no comparison. Apples and Oranges.

I'm sure that the new drive-by-wire rigs have to be considerably smoother but I haven't had the pleasure as of yet.

backfoot100 wrote: The correlation between the shifting and throttle characteristics of an outboard and a velvet drive inboard are two completely different animals and shouldn't even be mentioned in the same thread. Apples and oranges.

Sorry to disagree Eddie,you use one lever it puts whatever transmission in gear and as you move that lever it opens the throttle,the control not caring what it's connected to.
Here is the opening paragraph in the MV3 instructions-
The Morse MV-3 Control is designed to provide convenient, one hand,
single lever operation of shift and throttle for most popular outboards,
sport jets, inboards equipped with hydraulic reverse gears and Berkeley
or similar jet pumps.

The correlation between the shifting and throttle characteristics of an outboard and a velvet drive inboard are two completely different animals and shouldn't even be mentioned in the same thread.
Apples and oranges.

FredWSauer wrote: If you have one hand on the wheel and one hand holding the throttle, how do you drink your beer?

Steer with your knee, like the people on the interstate who are eating lunch while driving.

Boat Dr. is Billy Sutton

I may have to retract my statement. I recall distinctly that my father's 1977 Glastron with a Mercury outboard needed constant pressure to keep up speed. If you let go the throttle would slowly retard. Side note: That boat was quite the machine. Glastron 176 SSV modified v-hull. The engine was a 175HP Black Max - overpowered for the hull back before the lawyers took over the world. My dad did that just for better water skiing hole shot. I recall that the speedometer pegged at 52-ish, and I pegged it multiple times where it would just stick and not move.

Anyhow, I grew up driving that boat and perhaps that just taught me to always keep my right hand on the throttle. On my 1993 SN I can let go of the throttle and it will stay there. The boat was not running but I just ran out to my garage and did it again to convince myself that is how it works.

Sorry for adding to the confusion. I wonder if Fred will come back and tell us all what is going on and answer the question that Pete and I asked?

When I let go of the throttle it moves back to idle fairly quickly. Not as much of a jerk as I let on with the previous post; but, it does slow down.

Sounds like we need an official ruling. Could Al shed some light on this issue? Maybe the Boat Dr.?

There is no return tension built into either the cable or the morse control. The carb throttle shafts have a little bit of return tension on them but are unlikely to overcome the friction in the cable. An external return spring between the carb throttle arm and the engine (usually attached to the intake manifold or similar) may cause throttle spring back. This depends on the strength and tension on the spring, as well as how smooth the cables are. It's not the intent to return the throttle if not held, but rather to return the throttle if the cable breaks- but it can definitely act that way. Most pcm's were set up with this spring, but not all marinizers used one.

I can tell you with certainty that all mine and every other brand new CC I have driven came from the factory with set it and forget it throttles. Even the floor mounted gas peddle models I have driven were the same way. If you are worried about safety in this regards wear your lanyard or add one if not equipped.

FYI, perfect pass disengages when the throttle is moved back, a throttle that did not hold position would definitely be a problem if used in conjunction with PP.