Another SN followed me home!

I've been laid up since my last post in March, bad back. Finally got it corrected surgically 6/2/15. Suppose to wait 6 weeks to do anything, but yesterday and today I worked on getting the engine running. Long story short, it runs great, but has a bad water leak from a broken end plate on the exhaust log.. Plus another on the bottom rear "L" connector, rotten steel pipe.. I'm pretty happy it starts and runs with easy fixes..

Trying to see where the instruments go, and the spot I thought was original will be obscured by the observers seat back. Anyone know what was the stock set up? This photo posted by another member doesn't show an observers seat in the way.

Perhaps he has a different observers seat.
This seems like the only location that will work.

I made a plexiglass frame for the speedometers, and to cover all the extra holes from the second helm location. I painted the backside red up to the level of the dash, clear above that.

Test fit, pretty good even before routing edges and sanding. This is removable with 4 bolts, so it fits in the garage with the trailer.

Swim deck in progress, made my own aluminum brackets, super heavy duty.
Wood is red oak for now. First I made a plywood one, used that as a template to make the oak one, plan to make it from teak once I get better at this. Since these years didn't originally come with swim decks, the measurements and angles are all different from my 90 SN and 88 BFN. Transom curve is very pronounced and compound.

forvicjr wrote: Ive welded them once and ground them down smooth and they cracked again beside the weld.😡 so now they have some give to them.

Vic,
Maybe you shouldn't have ground down the weld? There's nothing wrong with leaving a good weld unground. I noticed you don't have a prop guard on your trailer. They add rigidity to the rails. Also, some of the CC trailers had gussets welded from the main rails to the cross members at the fenders. What did you weld them with and what prep did you do before welding?

forvicjr wrote: my machinest friend built me new ones. It took time though he had to work it in on his CNC bender. It is better now but the guide's are not tight to the boat and still allow it to get somewhat crossed up.

Vic,
Maybe he didn't bend them in as tight a radius as the originals? The originals were 1&1/4" scd. 40 pipe bent with a heavy wall bender most commonly used by electricians.

63 Skier wrote: Vic, do you have side pipes on your trailer? I definitely know about riding up on a bunk or fender on the steeper ramps, but the guides shouldn't allow you to get off center by more than a few inches, not sure how you get turned completely sideways.

"63" last season I loaded and unloaded without guides. They had rusted at the frame and my machinest friend built me new ones. It took time though he had to work it in on his CNC bender. It is better now but the guide's are not tight to the boat and still allow it to get somewhat crossed up. The wind and hurry and load due to high traffic in and out the ramp makes things hard.Also the ramps here are at a very shallow angle. My front tires on my trk is like four feet from the water when backed in to load.

Damn auto correct!

CBR, that post should score you a lot of points at home!!!

Vic, do you have side pipes on your trailer? I definitely know about riding up on a bunk or fender on the steeper ramps, but the guides shouldn't allow you to get off center by more than a few inches, not sure how you get turned completely sideways.

Thats pretty funny!

Here is how Phoenix trailers did mine,I wish I could unbolt it,it
makes a great sod cutter when I back up in the yard

You know, I missed that.

I do like the ease of loading on a low bunk trailer, but have wondered if Ramlin made them maybe just an inch higher if a lot of the clearance scrapes would have been avoided.

I find myself dragging my guard on a regular basis, even though I'm aware and try to avoid it, and even though I'm using a drop hitch to bring the trailer tongue as low as practical. But, though it makes noise it doesn't do any harm.

If you are considering modifying it, I think the easiest and most effective way would be to chop both angle members 1/3 of the way from where they meet in the V, lower the angle of each of them, and insert a straight horizontal piece to join them, just as most of us have on our trailers. It gives you more side to side clearance, a bit more clearance from the ground, and when you do scrape instead of a V digging a groove in pavement it will be a flat that tends to just drag and lift the trailer (really just relieving some spring weight) over the obstacle.

Nice work, I need to make my trailer look as good as yours, way too much rust and wear showing on mine at this point.

cbr1000dude wrote: Does Grand Poobah mean humorless Chicken Little syndrome. I've grown some tough skin reading some of the replies I get on this forum, as have others I'm sure. I'll just ignore you in the future, and continue ruining my boats as I please. Perhaps someone else can get some value from my efforts or failures.

Sorry you feel that way but, perhaps ignoring my questions will hinder others as they may have issues without beveling their bunks nor shaping them into the wishbone shape. I asked if you have tried the boat on your trailer to see how it works.