Another SN followed me home!
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35160
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 3:29am
Topic: Another SN followed me home!
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Subject: Another SN followed me home!
Date Posted: December-15-2014 at 11:13pm
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1967 Ski Nautique 18 footer with a 318 Chrysler that is in unknown shape but complete. Now why don't I know more? I bought it in a pouring rain, almost dark with flat tires for $300! It has to be worth that much. Got it home without getting a ticket. Has the original Manufacturers Certificate of Origin signed by George R. Oakley, Treasurer 4/15/1967. Another treasure? We'll see. Photos to follow. |
Replies:
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: December-15-2014 at 11:16pm
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So much awesome in that post. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 12:31am
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and so another story begins! john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 1:16am
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feel like somethings missing ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: CrazyCanuck
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 1:40am
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Sounds like the start of a great story. ------------- https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRtW3vJrMHLdqBzndt9VX3oOpBuRopGlzKq9Ea7pAO7wnTuoD8E8g |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 1:49am
 That's all I have at the moment |
IAughtNaut wrote:Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 8:59am
 Got the seats out and wiped them off. Great condition, not burned or worn at all. No damage to fiberglass bases. Can these be 48 year old original seats? Looks like it was a red boat painted white so long ago the paint almost wipes off, very chalky. Thinking of sanding it down. Gotta see if the engine and trans and stringers are ok first. Floor seems very solid after leaves and dirt removed. Later |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 10:13am
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Fiberglass bases? Post some pics of what you mean, never seen or heard of any such thing on a boat of this era. The aluminum frames appear original, no telling on vinyl but it looks to be original style. The 1st gen SN hull is very thick, the floor isn't needed for structural support. Stringer condition shouldn't stop you from pulling the paint off. There are fiberglass safe chemical strippers to consider in addition to the sanding option. |
Posted By: seacamper
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 10:43am
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Looks great! ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow 1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow 1969 Seacamper Houseboat 1986 Harris Pontoon 2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard 1999 Adventurecraft |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 12:29pm
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Glad it was rescued! More pictures, more pictures!!! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 12:38pm
Great find.  Keep us posted on the progress. If you are going to do an original restoration, rely on the site for any questions that come up. I as well as others I'm sure are curious about what's under that white paint. I agree that the seat bases are not original. Maybe they used them to gain some height?------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 1:52pm
 In the light of day, I see the engine box is from a 78 or so Mastercraft stars and stripes. First someone cut out a hole for the too tall carb, patched that, and added 2 inches of wood to the bottom edge of the box. Hmmm not sure what to do about that.  The white paint wipes off like chalk. I think the top was red, sides white, and latex house paint was sprayed. I'll look into a gel safe paint stripper, didn't know that was an option. The seat bases are definitely fiberglass, use black plastic knobs on studs to hold on, battery is under drivers seat, so this provides access. No idea where they originated but not original from what you said. Trailer is cobbled up from something it looks like. 2 by 4 bunks held on with rope wound around one. I'm taking it out to the family ranch and putting it in a big tin garage, can't leave it on the street. At least it'll be dry to work on then |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 2:28pm
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The trailer appears to be the original. Post some better pics of those glass seat pedestals, it's possible they came from a newer SN and have value to someone. What engine does it have? Post a pic if you can. There's a good chance the boat had a wood motorbox originally. Same colors as the '66 brochure it sounds like? Same as my '67. |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 8:22pm
 So I got it into the tin shed, took off the motor box, rear wood section, and stripped the old carpet out. The floor is 1/2 inch plywood panels, screwed to the boat, is this original? Is there foam under this? The motor turns by socket wrench, trans has red tranny fluid, engine bolts tight to stringers, all good news so far. I set up a big box fan to dry it out, spread out the carpet pieces to dry for use as templates. The steering cable is frozen up, expected that. Done for today. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 8:43pm
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On a 67, I don't feel you will find foam under the sole. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 11:08pm
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I think Reid told me no foam up till '65. After that it was optional for a few years. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: December-16-2014 at 11:37pm
Our 67 had foam under the floor as shown here when Mike (Wakeslayer) was replacing the stringers.  ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-17-2014 at 7:54am
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Yup, foam was common by '67, though technically optional. Thin skin of glass over it (probably not sealed great in the nose or under the tank) and then a ply floor screwed down last- originally would have been covered in vinyl. That's a la/LM Chrysler, most likely a 318 in a SN. Motorbox would have been wood originally. |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-17-2014 at 11:27am
I'll check the floor out, thanks. The po provided 3 different Chrysler Marine service manuals, and none of them show the exhaust logs like these for a 318 (close to the valve covers/spark plug wires run underneath. Were these made by CC? |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: December-17-2014 at 12:24pm
No those look like Chrysler or at least Chrysler-like aftermarket manifolds (Barr or Osco). One of your's is the more oval shape and the other is the more square shape. The elbows on the rear of your exhaust manifolds are like mine and only have a 45° bend. Most other 318's I've seen on here have a 90° bend.   ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-17-2014 at 1:01pm
| The Chrysler service manuals that you were given may be for the Poly 318 instead of the LA/LM family. Other than the dual pocket RWP, I'm not sure what else they share- 2 very different engine architectures, I believe. '67 was a transition year (some poly's still made it into cc's). That's probably causing your confusion. Other than one of the manifolds being aftermarket, it looks like a standard LA/LM Chrysler. Cc didnt do anything special with them. |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-17-2014 at 3:32pm
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Great info, thanks guys! |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-17-2014 at 11:39pm
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Day 2 of working on this boat. Still trying to get it clean and dry inside. Hooked up a battery, and it turns over! No spark. Points are crusty and not opening, so I filed them, and adjusted the gap, now there's a spark when I open them with the key on. Rotor and cap are shot, but I cleaned them up, but no spark at plugs, plugs and wires must be 40 years old. I was hoping for a pop or backfire, but no luck. Need a tune up kit. Coil ohms correct. Forgot my compression tester, next time. The old white steering cable is broken in two behind the dash! Really thin housing. A new black one and clevis adapter is on it's way. Doesn't sound like I got much done, but it took half a day. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: December-17-2014 at 11:50pm
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That sounds great, and to me sounds like you got quite a bit accomplished! A quick suggestion, and maybe you've already done this. At a minimum spray a bit of fogging oil, or a few squirts of 10W30, into each spark plug hole. Even better would be to remove all spark plugs, remove distributor, and spin the oil pump with a drill and long adapter. If you are planning on a rebuild anyway this isn't a big deal, but if you are hoping it runs OK as is this can help with an engine that has sat for a very long time. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-18-2014 at 8:31am
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Another suggestion - rig up a temporary fuel source for startup so you don't pull the dirt out of old lines & tank. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-18-2014 at 9:52am
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Yeah, I just got excited when it turned over and abandoned my start up plan and went off on a tangent. Gas smells like very old kerosene. Gotta drain the tank (fuel gauge shows 1/2 tank, works), the Carter AFB carb is covered in white crusty/powdery stuff inside and out, 7 quarts of very think black oil in non stepped crankcase pan, but at least it's put together and all there unlike my 88 Barefoot beginning. Yes, I'd like to get this engine to run if possible. I found the bilge pump up under the dash! This boat is full of surprises. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: December-18-2014 at 12:05pm
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I love that bilge pump modification, I'm going to relocate all my bilge pumps to under the dash. That way we won't waste valuable battery capacity until the water is up to just below the gunwales. Some people are just ..... strange ...... in their thought process. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: December-18-2014 at 8:22pm
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its an emergency pump it is never an emergency til you actually see the water ------------- former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: December-18-2014 at 8:33pm
| Our Classic has one mounted to the deck. It has a hose that runs down into the bilge with a brass pick up. It doesn't work. |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: December-18-2014 at 9:36pm
If it's of any value here's the 318 in my brothers 72 Southwind ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-18-2014 at 10:10pm
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My 64 skier had the same pump, my guess it was the days before submersible pumps ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 12:37am
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I pulled up the plywood floor today, and there is foam underneath a thin fiberglass skin! Everything seems really solid but dirty. The lumber is much more hefty than a 2001 model, really hefty. The plywood is pretty good for 48 years of moisture, but I'll make new ones. I don't understand this design, it traps water under untreated plywood on top of a thin layer of fiberglass. Am I missing something? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 12:56am
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Planned obsolecence . . . ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 1:08am
 I pulled up a single ply of fiberglass over the port muffler with 2 fingers, not attached too well. I'll do better. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 8:31am
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Keep in mind that Correct craft had only been building fiberglass boats for a few years at this point... Construction techniques were still a little rough. My guess is that the thin fiberglass skin was meant to keep water out of the foam, whereas the ply on top provided impact resistance so you could walk on it. The ply isn't really a problem but the thin skin that stops short of the nose and gas tank really isn't sufficient to keep water out of everything long term. They addressed this in the 70's. |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 10:24am
Prior to the "Foam" technology (i.e. in Dad's 64) there was no foam, so the floor was 1/2" painted (gray) plywood screwed to the stringers. The plywood was covered with a scratchy stuff more like wallpaper then vinyl. Art had found some at some point. Anyway Tim, your theory makes sense, no foam so no thin skin. Maybe they foamed some boats, they got wet - and heavy in testing, so they decided they needed a flooring that was a little more water resistant. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 10:38am
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Don't forget they had been foaming for even less time and would have had to rely on the supplier for info on how it would work IMO. The wood was different back then too,what is premium today was off the shelf then. That seemed to change around the early 70's. I used to notice it in the houses I used to work in,floor joists were a big clue on when it was built. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 11:35am
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Yeah I'm not sure how much r&d went into the foam and thin skin on top... Probably more of a common sense thing than anything else. I'm guessing it would take a pretty long time to see the adverse effects of waterlogged foam- heck, I still have boats from that era (which I'm sure are soggy) and they still work just fine! They definitely went to more lengths to thicken and seal the floor just years later (even the new designs in '70 and '71) are way ahead of the late 60's stuff)... Probably just a learning curve with the new materials and methods. |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 12:06pm
 Makes sense, thanks. I found some of that "wallpaper" along the edges where it tucked under the plywood. It must have been cut off and replaced with the blue carpet I removed. The plywood is only 3/8 inch secured by 4 to 6 screws per panel. The screws themselves were half gone, but the wood frame is very solid. So what to do. Seems this "design" is still solid after 48 years. There are a few cracks in the thin fiberglass coating, and water seeping into the bilge area and battery box. I have a heat lamp and box fan going to dry it out. Suggestions? The trailer has a 2 inch ball adapter welded over the 1 3/4 original, jack housing cut out and moved forward, fenders reattached with welded bar stock, all very hack job, but functional. The trailer is a project unto itself.. The hull has been painted a least twice. I cleaned an area about 2 by 2 ft with lacquer thinner, and the first chalky color came right off, revealing a cream colored paint. Only the 2 inch square where the registration sticker was seems like the original white gel coat. Well getting to the steering cable will be easy now. The shifter and throttle cables are functional but stiff. The floor panel would have to be removed to change them because of a screwed down clip in the tunnel area they are run, so this will be done. I'm thinking of running them behind the new side carpet inside a housing rather than on top of it like the PO did. Was the "wallpaper" fixed under them or over them for"easy" access to change them. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 12:14pm
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Not so quick on the "hack job" classification on those trailer elements... Post some pics. The bar stock used to attach the fenders sounds original, at least (it adds some regidity to otherwise thin fenders). Correct on the clips holding down the control cables... It's worth adding that you can reinstall the cables without them. Hopefully you're considering an original restoration... In which case, carpet wouldn't be used. Painted interior walls and vinyl covered floor panels would be. Functional and good looking... And easier than installing carpet too! Not to mention cheaper. Capt lee's 'spra strip is the one I've heard good things about. Effective, but safe for glass- the corvette guys seem to like it. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 1:00pm
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You can delete the Captain from your memory bank Tim. I had done a lot of googling and yes the Corvette guys do use it but others there recommend just to sand the paint off their Vetts. So anyway I bought some for the Shamrock job because I thought it would get the old paint out of the non skid of the deck,which it did by removing the gel in that area and the surrounding plain areas.Luckily I tried it in a small area first. When you think of it, Corvettes are not gel coated and that may be the key ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 1:19pm
I always thought/assumed they had the vinyl right up the walls as well. Was it gel or paint? ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 1:20pm
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Painted right over the fiberglass, no gel. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 1:44pm
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The preferred method of stripping a Corvette body is soda blasting. It effectively removes the paint without etching the fiberglass significantly and leaves no residue in recesses that may leach and damage the new paint like chemical strippers can. I just finished one. I don't know how it would work on gel but I could check with the shop that did this and get back to you. ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 2:21pm
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Gel is just poly resin without glass, sounds like the spra strip isn't as safe as advertised! I know other chemical strippers can be used (some people swear by oven cleaner) but you have to be careful with it (how long it sits on the surface, etc). Guess this one is no different. John, soda blasting sounds easier than sanding- does that require a booth? I wonder what it would cost to do a hull and deck... By the early 70's, CC was spraying a splattered (gray/white) gel on the inside hull walls on boats where they would be visible, either partially (SN's with ski pockets) or fully (Skiers,etc). I do not believe that was done in the mid-late 60's though... I think they were either covered with side panels (common in late 1gen) Mustangs) or painted. I don't recall seeing vinyl on the walls. The vinyl actually installed on the ply floor before they were screwed down... The vinyl wraps around the edges and t-trim installs between floor panels (this was done thru the early 70's). This pic of a '67/68 sort of shows the floor and walls. http://correctcraftfan.com/reference/1968_brochure/index.asp?page=14 |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 2:34pm
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Soda blasting does not require a booth if you have room for the mess. It's sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) so no environmental issues except the paint. The car must be taken down to a shell because it has VERY small particles that get into everything but are easily vacuumed up. I know they use it on boat hulls, but I don't know what it does to the gel. It is not a very expensive process but the equipment is a bit different than sandblasting equipment I am told. it works really well. The Corvette surface requires a minimum of prep before painting compared to other methods. ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 2:49pm
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Is that a '58 Vette? Hard to tell if it has the hood vents & trunk straps or not from the pics. Beautiful car nonetheless. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 3:20pm
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Yea, it's a 58. Trunk spears and fake louvers included. ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 3:55pm
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Soda blasting a painted hull piqued my curiosity so I contacted %20http://www.redistripco.com" rel="nofollow - Redi strip and asked about removing paint from a gel coated boat hull. They have done this for customers with success, but, according to them, there are a lot of variables such as the type of paint applied and the condition of the gel coat under the paint. Some customers have been satisfied while others have not. They do a small test area and require the owner to approve of the result before doing the job. It also allows them to give some gross estimate of the cost involved. Remember that the hull was painted for a reason and the reason usually wasn't because the glare was blinding other boaters. What I understood after talking a while is that it can be done and will not damage the gel beyond what a good buff will restore. Pricing is time and material so there is no way or accurately predicting the cost. I have had parts stripped there both by acid dipping and soda blasting and it is not cheap, but compares to other methods unless you want to do the stripper and wire brush / chemicals / sanding / in your garage and have a lot of spare time. ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 4:00pm
I guess I'm going to have to re-think my plan on how I glass the floor to the wall then. I was planning on just using 2" tape, 4" tape, then cloth from hull sides to primaries. But the transition from cloth to woving roving on the hull sides would be clearly visible and look terrible in my opinion when covered by just paint. I had wrongfully assumed (typical) that the vinyl went up the hull sides and would cover this transition. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 4:05pm
Nothing a little grinder smoothing (and thickened resin filling if necessary for any low spots) can't fix. You should see some of the smooth, near-mirror finishes achieved in the bilge after a stringer job by some here! Heck, I smooth out the transitions even if I plan to cover with carpet. |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 4:26pm
I was less concerned about the "lip" of the transition, and more concerned over the actual texture of the roving compared to cloth. Unless I faired out the whole hull side there would be a clear texture difference of the surface. I would prefer the raw look of the roving just painted over if that's the way it would've came from the factory. I figured a real smooth hull side might look a little more modern. I'm probably splitting hairs.  ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 4:35pm
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What boat are you talking about and why would you be glassing the floor to the wall in a boat old enough that you would care about the look of the woven roving on the side wall? You are right btw the transition would look terrible.. I did it in my 67 mustang it would look terrible painted over and visible. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 4:38pm
| I think you'll find roving is a less than optimal choice for that joint for reasons more important than texture... But if you're committed to that plan, an extra coat of resin or 2 followed by sanding and grinding the edges would probably knock it down pretty far. The inside of the hull walls on my 67 have some hatching on them iirc... I would be trying to make it consistent one way or the other. |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 7:09pm
 This is the Home depot indoor outdoor carpet I used on my 88 Barefoot. It cuts and trims easily and looks and feels great when it's hot on bare feet. 3M #77 spray adhesive sticks great, is tacky fast, and doesn't bleed through. It was much easier and cheaper than the Boatcarpet.com carpet and cans of glue I used on my 87 SN (no shipping for one) and looks better. Sometimes, original is not the best solution. Hot, slippery vinyl has no appeal to me. Just my opinion. |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 9:45pm
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CBR...sorry for the threadjack. Joe, I'm referring to http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32011&title=67-sn-resto-mod-rev-2" rel="nofollow - my 67 project . I know your stance on not glassing the floor to the hull. I debated for a while on this but ultimately decided to glass the gap between the floor and hull sides. Tim, I'm not really wanting to use roving, I just want the sides of the hull to look consistent from floor to gunnel. I feel there are 3 options: 1. Use roving on that joint and blend it to the current roving sides. 2. Use cloth but run it all the way up the sides to completely cover the roving. 3. Use cloth approx 4-5" up, fair/sand to a smooth side. I think it'll probably be easier to fair and sand the hull sides and then paint it. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 11:00pm
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I too thought carpet was the answer when I first did the Mustang. My pan was a mess and at the time no easy alternative was available. Within the first year I spilt oil on it changing the filter,I've hated carpet ever since and was so happy to find a pan. From a manufacturing standpoint carpet has to be easy and looks great at the showroom but I'll take a glass floor or maybe a Seadek over carpet any day IMHO ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-19-2014 at 11:02pm
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I probably wouldn't worry about fairing and sanding perfectly smooth... I bet a coat of resin over it will smooth it out a good bit, I'm not sure id even go that far! Those hulls are thick and don't need the added strength of a rigid floor to hull wall joint... But if you're trying to keep water out, a few layers of cloth tape won't hurt. Keep the floor itself off the hull wall by a bit (1/8-1/4"?) and that joint should be flexy enough to take a light hit without cracking the gel. I'm looking forward to seeing your boat make progress, Craig! Original style 1gens are pretty rare. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-20-2014 at 9:56am
Not really. Typical construction lumber today is still 8/4" when milled but unlike the "back then" surfaced after kiln dried to the actual 1&1/2". Grades were very similar. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-20-2014 at 11:52am
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I ment quality wise,grains were tighter,less defects. The people selling it would have been embarrassed to sell you the stuff they sell today unless you were building packing crates. I don't believe the 2x6's HW got from me even had any knots in them at all. When my Grandfather built the garage in 1950 I'd be willing to bet that he didn't even see it until it was delivered so it wasn't hand picked ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-20-2014 at 12:59pm
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Gary, I agree that we saw some better lumber back then but were seeing virgin lumber still. The grading system has not changed but today they will take defects all the way to the extreme and back then pass better quality as lower grades. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: December-20-2014 at 11:53pm
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Pine lumber sucks. They are cutting hybrid fast growing pulp wood for lumber. And 12 foot 2x4's are cut from the top of the tree and are full of knots and the most of the corners are rounded off. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: December-21-2014 at 6:03pm
  These are 2 angles of the drivers seat base (fiberglass) I mentioned that came from where? I plan to use them,I don't see any point in building wood ones. |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-01-2015 at 1:32am
 The blob! I took the gas tank out to clean it, and after rinsing it several times with gas, I set it on end to drain. This was the beginning of a huge blob that started coming out! I've cleaned a few old tanks, but this is the worst accumulation I've seen. I left it upside down to keep draining overnight. Can this tank be saved? Where can I get a new one that will fit if not? Happy New Year btw! |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: January-01-2015 at 1:57am
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They can all be saved, just depends on how much money you want to throw at it. I had my Mustang tank restored (cut open, sandblasted, welded up, and epoxy coated inside) but I'm not going to use it. The patches are visible and I have a nice spare. Some have changed over to plastic tanks. Vondy has a nice pictorial http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14653&title=replacing-a-gas-tank" rel="nofollow - here scroll down to Vondy's post. If you're interested my Mustang tank is listed in the "parts for sale" forum. I am asking what the repair cost. ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-05-2015 at 10:07pm
| I wanted to get this engine to at least run before I got too involved in this project, and today it did! I had to hot wire the coil (losing volts somewhere) and pour a little gas down the now clean carb (the gas tank is still oozing the La Brea Tar Pits out the filler) and replace most of the ignition parts. At least I know where I'm starting now. I'll bet this engine hasn't fired in 40 years. Trying to post a short video without luck. |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-07-2015 at 12:07pm
 I got the dirty cracked windshield off, and the instrument mounting pos particle board too. What were they thinking using particle board, it turned into a hairy, particle spewing mess that I broke off with my hands! So I'm wondering what to replace it with, perhaps black acrylic? Looks pretty racy sans windshield.  I acrylic bonded the windshield 3 pieces together, but of course the broken lines still are there. Considering it's future too. |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: January-07-2015 at 1:42pm
By "they" do you mean Correct Craft? Because that instrument panel above your windshield certainly wasn't original. I plan on mounting a single speedometer above the steering wheel with the rest of the instruments in the center of the dash. Just like this:  ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-07-2015 at 1:49pm
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Much like wearing a Salmon colored shirt, only real men drive without a windshield ---- ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: January-07-2015 at 1:57pm
| ^^^ True ^^^ |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-07-2015 at 2:10pm
Do you really think so? I was wondering if it was possible someone other than CC fabricated an instrument panel, but it didn't seem likely. I've seen the single speedo like that and the rest of the instruments mounted where my glove box is on a Mustang of that era, but the Ski Nautique had 2 speedometers and instruments mounted in the same panel I thought. From the holes in the deck, it sure looks original. Perhaps someone has a photo they can share. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-07-2015 at 2:26pm
| Craig is correct. Refer to the photo he posted as to what is original. Single speedo was optional. |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: January-07-2015 at 2:29pm
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I'm certainly not the expert, and I know there wasn't a lot of consistency, but that picture I posted is of an original 1st Gen SN. It's also how my boat was configured with the exception that at one point it looks like someone added a 2nd speedo over the center of the dash. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-07-2015 at 2:49pm
I agree. Sounds like a PO did a hack job with the particle board. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: peter1234
Date Posted: January-07-2015 at 8:37pm
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I am sure we can all agree hack and particle board on a boat go hand in hand ------------- former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-08-2015 at 12:28am
 This is the dash after removing the glove box (not stock I see now), the po added a small wood piece on the left to make it fit. I'm moving the instruments back where they started. Thanks for the photo! |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-08-2015 at 10:01pm
 I repaired the windshield, and today made braces from aluminum stock (inside and outside) and ss machine button head bolts to hide the crack, and make the whole structure stiffer. The white rubber piece on the bottom edge needed lots of SOS and elbow grease, but came out pretty good. |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-10-2015 at 12:33am
 I discovered 2 holes for the helm, was this an option or PO DIY? I tried sitting behind the right location (which was how I got it) and it's way too close to the Morse control for me, so I'll switch it to the left one. The red gel coat under the paint seems in good shape, so I'll keep sanding and hope for the best. It's a pretty red buffed up. |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-10-2015 at 12:46am
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Posted By: Chevy350
Date Posted: January-10-2015 at 1:16am
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Cbr, Is that a candy red under the white? That looks really nice after it's waxed. Always wanted a Mustang in the late 60s in that color. ------------- 1972 Mustang |
Posted By: Chevy350
Date Posted: January-10-2015 at 4:59am
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Anyone know what color that red is actually called? My dad's other boat is a 1969 ski nautique not finished(not even close) is a nice red but it's faded. It looks similiar to cbr's SN deck. ------------- 1972 Mustang |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-10-2015 at 10:25am
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Chevy, check out the brochures in the reference section, there's a lot of great info in them. No '67 brochure but he '66 mentions a Dragon Red, and '68 mentions a Candy Apple. The SN in the '66 brochure looks pretty bright to me, tough to say which you have. My 67sn is pretty bright too. The factory would have only put in one set of holes for the helm. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-10-2015 at 10:29am
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NG, Be careful with sanding the paint off especially on corners. Even though the gel is pretty thick, you sure don't want to sand through it. I suggest using some gel safe paint stripper first. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Chevy350
Date Posted: January-10-2015 at 2:04pm
Thanks Tim. ------------- 1972 Mustang |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-10-2015 at 4:12pm
I don't trust the "Gel Safe" claim from what I've read. I'll be careful not to sand through the gel. Long ago I did prep and finish sanding at a body shop for 4 years(when I wasn't driving the tow truck),seems like every ten minutes the painter yelled at me "watch the edges and corners" |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-10-2015 at 6:12pm
This is the one that Corvette forum people use,so I bought and tried it on the Shamrock and it did eat the gel. Rereading their website I see now it only says safe for Corvette fiberglass even though they show a boat on the bottle----- ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-11-2015 at 1:13am
Actually, only the first Corvettes were laid up fiberglass, since then evolving composites known as SMC (sheet molding compound)have been used. They are pressed into shape in metal molds with heat. There is no gel coat involved, they are painted composite bodies. My 2005 had a roof panel separate, and the new replacement (under warranty) roof arrived unpainted, and was painted by their paint shop. Boat gel coat is sprayed into a polished mold and has a mold release of some sort. Then fiberglass is laid up over it, and popped out of the mold when cured. Totally different processes. Even Corvette Forum owners(I am a member there also) don't know until they read up on it. I didn't. |
Posted By: velde99
Date Posted: January-11-2015 at 10:19am
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Years ago I was redoing the stripe on my old 1984 BFN. I called correct craft and asked what to use To remove the paint. They said "easy off" oven cleaner. I used it and it was great. No issues to the gel coat- and took the paint off really easy. Now I'm not sure if the paint that's in you boat is the same as what cc used but I can tell you it would be worth the $5 for a can of easy off. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-11-2015 at 12:29pm
Oven cleaner might be something to try,certainly easy to get and cheap enough to throw away if it don't. As to Vetts,Dad owned a couple and had gone to school with d*ck Doan of Doan Chevy here in Dundee. I've posted this before so I hope I'm not boring anyone but here's Dad with his first one. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-11-2015 at 4:21pm
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Very cool photo! Since we're on to white Corvettes, here's me with my 1988 back a few years ago (quite a few). http://s50.photobucket.com/user/edheiser/media/bearcreek001.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> 
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-11-2015 at 5:45pm
Twins  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: January-11-2015 at 9:54pm
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Gary, that photo of your dad with the Corvette is the best! ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: January-11-2015 at 10:51pm
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George Oakley's grand-niece is the HR director at CC. Her father, who was George's nephew, worked in the factory for probably 50 years, as did his father, Don, who was George's brother. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-12-2015 at 11:20pm
 I got it off the trailer today, and it was quite a pain. I guess it looks easier than it is. It took me half a day, but now I could do it in no time
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Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-23-2015 at 11:18pm
 Stripped down the trailer and painted it aluminum color since I had some oil based paint. Looks a lot better. I registered the boat, but the trailer is out of the DMV system, so I have to take it to the CHP office in Martinez to get it "blue plated"? and a new VIN. Can't get a one day moving permit without a VIN, can't put it on the road without a moving permit. Catch 22. But I can put it on my other boat trailer to take it there! Seems weird but that's the rules. |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: January-24-2015 at 12:21pm
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Your DMV must be much fussier than their FL counterpart. Usually the cops here don't even give you a second look on the road without a tag on a trailer, except in certain towns, like Winter Park. I used to literally tow boats all over the Southeast without a tag. Anyway, I'm glad to hear you've found a solution. I commented to Shirley (Oakley) Adams that you have an MSO signed by her great uncle, and she said she'd love to have a photocopy of it if possible. If you'd like, you can scan it and send to me at acozier@nautique.com or just mail a photocopy to my attention at Nautique Boats, 14700 Aerospace Parkway, Orlando FL 32832. Thanks! ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-24-2015 at 2:56pm
Sure, I sent you a copy in the mail today.
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Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: January-25-2015 at 10:33pm
 Progress on the trailer! |
Posted By: cbr1000dude
Date Posted: February-01-2015 at 12:13pm
 I made a prop/rudder guard today and it's super strong. The steel cost me $9.76 at the recycler which really appeals to my thrifty nature! I bolted it all together with 1/2 inch bolts and nylock nuts (OK, those cost more than the steel), so it's not going anywhere. The rear of the original #3 trailer was unprotective and real floppy. The guide poles waved on the road like a mad metronome. Real solid now (weighs 40 plus pounds), and I can back up my driveway without worrying about the prop or rudder hitting the concrete. 2 more brackets and some paint and it's done. And yes, the little 12 inch prop clears with plenty of room. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-01-2015 at 4:09pm
Side to side?? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |