ProTec Ignition replacement question

I'd change the plugs and index the new set while you're at it, they're cheap and you'll have 8 to choose from. I didn't like the 90 degree boots, but I have GT40p's so the plug angle is different. The pic I sent you has 45's on a long boot like the one in your pic.   Mine are for a 4.6 or 5.4 Ford, they sent them by mistake, but I like them because they come out to the edge of the manifold and they're easy to grab so I used them instead of the 45's I ordered.

I think Don meant "gap" when he said index.

It's important to properly torque your plugs, but I don't think you have to worry about which way your ground straps are facing.

I'm sure there are guys in this site with their ground straps all aligned though, haha ;)

Good to know fellas. what is the proper torque for the plugs? I will try to index them like you said. I read up on how to do it.

OK, a few more questions:

I'm pretty sure I have the GT40 heads on our boat. Are these aluminum or cast iron?

Plugs are Autolite 764 (14mm) gapped to 0.055" and torqued to 18-22 ft lbs. (Al) 25-30 ft lbs (cast iron).

Am I correct?

Your wasting your time indexing plugs on a stock motor.
Below is copied from NGK's site

4. Indexing

This is for racers only !!
Indexing refers to a process whereby auxiliary washers of varying thickness are placed under the spark plug's shoulder so that when the spark plug is tightened, the gap will point in the desired direction.

However, without running an engine on a dyno, it is impossible to gauge which type of indexing works best in your engine. While most engines like the spark plug's gap open to the intake valve, there are still other combinations that make more power with the gap pointed toward the exhaust valve.

In any case, engines with indexed spark plugs will typically make only a few more horsepower, typically less than 1% of total engine output. For a 500hp engine, you'd be lucky to get 5hp. While there are exceptions, the bottom line is that without a dyno, gauging success will be difficult.

TX Foilhead wrote: Should be cast iron, 3 bars on the end is GT40, 4 bars is GT40p.

It appears I have GT40 heads and not the "P" heads.

So, what's the latest here? Did you get the DUI? If so, how did the install go and how is it performing?

Sweet! If my ProTec lasts through the summer I plan to tackle this project over the winter and some step-by-step directions and pictures would be awesome. I have a good feeling this thread is going into the FAQ soon.

Did you buy a red one?

Please post your pics and details of the install. I own the 1992 CC catalog cover boat. My Pro-Tec is hanging in there but I want to change out over the winter as well.

Finally got the dizzy today. I believe I am ready to go. I do have a few questions:

Directions mention it is not recommended to run a high volume oil pump. I don't believe my stock 351W has a HVOP. Correct?

Instructions recommend removing any vacuum lines while timing. Do I need to remove the line going into the carb spacer? That's the only vac line I'm aware of.

It also says initial timing is 12 degrees.

If I am missing anything else, let me know.

Here are some pics:

Good to know. Is it safe to assume I should be seeing 24 degrees at 3000RPM like it's inscribed on the dizzy?

I was also going by the manual in regards to rotor rotation and wiring.

JPASS wrote: Good to know. Is it safe to assume I should be seeing 24 degrees at 3000RPM like it's inscribed on the dizzy? I was also going by the manual in regards to rotor rotation and wiring.

Ok, cool. Good that you have images of the manual in front of you.

On the timing... that's a good question actually.

My first inclination is that you should have 24 degrees of advance for something like 35-36 degrees total timing. (Just saw Lewy's post; we're on the same page.)

But then, I've heard it said that the GT heads don't require as much advance. I remember Skidim at one point, listing on clearance a dizzy that was specifically curved for GT-40 heads. But I don't know how much less is the norm, like how much total advance a GT-40 head equipped engine should be seeing.

You can check it in the driveway. At least the idle speed initial for sure.

If you're were revving it up, you'd want to make sure your tranny doesn't have a dirty neutral, because you don't want your driveshaft to be spinning on a dry strut bearing.

Timing on our mech advance dizzys does not depend on load, only rpm... You can do it all on the hose.

The black crimpers you have are good for the tube style terminal ends.

The terminal "ends with arms" I think go with a crimper that has a special die that will roll the arms in automatically as it's squeezed. But, those aren't the terminal ends you're actually using?