ProTec Ignition replacement question
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33526
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 12:48am
Topic: ProTec Ignition replacement question
Posted By: JPASS
Subject: ProTec Ignition replacement question
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 8:51am
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I've done some research regarding replacement of the stock Protec ignition with a dizzy system. Ours is leaking at the moment. I have some questions: The SkiDim replacement is $549 for a LH rotation and $619 for a RH. I do believe my motor is RH because it has an R in the model number (PLP-PR-R12PT). Is this correct? I wanted to go with a DUI dizzy and new wires. If I go the DUI route, do I need the $90 wiring harness? What do you guys think? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Replies:
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 9:03am
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The DUI is a 2 wire hook up 1 key power and 2 tach that's it. It's recommend you open up the plug gap .005 because it's a much hotter spark. - DUI's are a great up grade. I installed a SkiDim replacement(a night mare)and a DUI. The DUI is far better. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 9:37am
So no need for the wiring harness? The DUI is $389 and the new wires are another $100, so about $500 with taxes. It's another $90 if I were to get the wiring harness, but I'm not sure I need it. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Waterdog wrote:Posted By: halfnelly
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 9:39am
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I did the Skidim conversion on mine. Overall it wasn't bad, but the diagrams they include look like they were drawn on a bar napkin. I would probably go with the DUI if I had to do it again, it'd be cheaper and an upgrade. Do you have a PCM trans or a BW? If it's a PCM 1.23:1 it's a LH. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 10:27am
It's a PCM 1.23:1 So even though the model number shows an R, it's still a left hand rotation? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 10:32am
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John I believe the PLP (L being the left hand rotation) shows it is a LH engine. Regardless with the 1.23 it is for sure a LH engine if the prop spins right. Dizzy gears are different on the kits that's all. ------------- |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 10:55am
Good to know Zach. I was looking at the R further down in the model number. So I'm assuming PLP is left and PRP would be right hand rotation. Do I have to swap out the bottom gear on the new DUI or will it come complete? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 11:42am
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Zach is correct on the rotation- 2nd digit is the indication. PLP = LH LH = standard rotation, so no need to worry about swapping gears. Thats only a concern for RH rotation folks. I believe Performance Distributors charges extra for the RH gear ($75ish?). I have not converted a Pro Tec boat, but I dont see why you'd need a new harness. At most, you'll need to extend a few wires from the back of the motor where the ProTec ECU is, to the front where the DUI installs. Tach and power is all it needs though. There will be some unused sensors and switches, but I dont see the harm in leaving all of them connected. Regarding plug wires, you do NOT need to purchase the DUI Live Wires kit. Theyre very nice, but very pricey at $100+. You can get a stock set of marine wires that will work for less (DUI has "Male" terminals) or you can buy a universal wire kit like the Taylor Spiro Pro's and cut them to length and terminate them yourself. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 1:53pm
| I paid extra for the harness and I wouldn't do it again. You do need to have a very good idea about how the electrical system on the motor is wired Thats a good thing to learn anyway. The only exception I would make is if the goo is all over the connector and wires, that stuff is very difficult to remove. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 3:41pm
Good to know. Right now the insulator goo is currently dripping down the sides of the bell housing. I plan on doing this swap soon. Going to have to buy a timing light as well being that I no longer have one. I was going to buy http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-5568-Pro-Timing-Light-Tool/dp/B000EVU8J8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1399483127&sr=8-2&keywords=timing+light" rel="nofollow - this one ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 5:38pm
I have this timing light and have been pretty happy with it  I too need to do the Protec conversion at some point also, so when your going through it, please document what you did. I have the added extra bonus of having the TBI system (now replaced with a 4160), but the wiring rats nest seems more intimidating since there are so many more sensors.
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Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 5:44pm
| on a side thought... did anyone come up with a definitive answer on the MSD distributor that Eddie was referencing a couple of weeks ago? that might be an option as well, and it appeared that the cost was stacking up nicely to the skidim/dui options |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 5:48pm
| Joe is running the MSD distributor in his stroker 351w. You do need a Windsor gear to swap on in place of the Cleveland/460 one that it comes with. |
Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 6:17pm
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Hey John, I did the conversion when I rebuilt the motor. Was not difficult. The hardest part was shelling out the cash for the system!! I may have a timing light to lend, but they are inexpensive. Oh, and the coil went bad TWICE, changed to the MSD Blaster and no issues since. ------------- Js |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 6:59pm
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You can get the gear from Summit still. It's a Mallory part number. FYI Mallory marine group has been sold to sierra marine. Not sure on the fate of the Mallory stuff at the moment. I couldn't get in direct contact with Sierra. Number rang no longer in service. 9-26825 is the gear part. ------------- |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 9:18pm
I think I'm going to go with http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-m35820rd/overview/" rel="nofollow - this  And some wires. Leaning more towards red cap and wires. Anyone have a preference in color? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 9:26pm
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That's interesting Zach, I never had issues with the Mallory stuff until the the ProTec conversion. I've been enough modules to have bought the kit almost 2 times now and the boat is down 6 mph with the CHI upgrade. I have wondered if there was a change somewhere between the Mallory stuff on the Commander motor and the stuff I have now on the PCM. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 10:54pm
Purple!! That color will make it faster!! Really?? It's your boat get what ever color you like. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 11:08pm
I always thought it was flame stickers that made it go faster???? Of course I'll get what I like (so far red cap and wires). I just wanted to hear what colors other people preferred. I'm not sure how I feel about purple  ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 11:29pm
| The red would look cool with the red PCM valve covers. |
Posted By: Got Tiques
Date Posted: May-07-2014 at 11:34pm
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The DUI upgrade in the Blair's Barefoot Banana Boa II distributor cap just happens to be YELLOW. Did spend the $ to get the Live Wires, also yellow. Runs as good as new!! And was a simple install. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4811" rel="nofollow - '78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: May-13-2014 at 5:50pm
 OK I am going to take a stab at some instructions for using your existing wiring harness. This assumes that the DUI has three wires if it only has two then you can ignore the instructions for the ground wire. Instructions for using existing Pro Tec wiring harness to connect a DUI distributor: Basically you will be rerouting the 12Vdc key voltage, the tachometer and ground wires from the existing coil pack connector to the existing trigger plug connector and then connecting those wires to the new DUI distributor. Since the wires going between the EMS connector and the Trigger Plug are no longer needed you can reuse them to keep everything looking clean and contained in the original wiring harness. Here is a description of the connections at the EMS Connector. A - Trigger plug (D) (note that these 4 wires are reversed in the harness A goes to D etc.. you may want to verify this with a DMM set to Ohms before starting in case the diagram is wrong) B - Trigger plug (C) C - Trigger plug (B) D – Trigger plug (A) E – Tachometer (dash) F – Oil pressure switch (engine) G - Ground H – Knock sensor (engine) J - No connection K - No connection L - No connection M - Ground N – No connection P - 12Vdc from ignition key switch through 12.5 Amp Breaker at point 26 on diagram (dash) 1) Remove EMS connector from the coil pack 2) Remove trigger plug from existing Pro Tec trigger unit (distributor) 3) Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to P (12Vdc from key) 4) Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to D 5) Connect the wires from P and D together 6) Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to E (Tach wire from dash) 7) Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to C 8) Connect the wires from E and C together 9) Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to G (or M, both are Ground) 10) Cut the wire at the back of the EMS connector going to B 11) Connect the wires from G and B together 12) Remove the Pro Tec trigger unit and install the DUI Distributor 13) Cut the wire at the back of the Trigger Plug going to A 14) Turn on the key and using a DMM set to measure Volts DC verify that it reads about 12Vdc 15) Turn off the key 16) Connect the wire from A to the DUI 12Vdc input wire 17) Cut the wire at the back of the Trigger Plug going to B 18) Using a DMM set to Ohms verify this wire goes to the back of the dash Tachometer (should be a low number close to 0.0 Ohms) or just verify it does not go to power or ground 19) Connect the wire from B to the DUI Tachometer output wire 20) Cut the wire at the back of the Trigger Plug going to C 21) Using a DMM set to Ohms verify this wire is connected to Ground (should be close to 0.0 Ohms) 22) Connect the wire from C to the DUI Ground wire 23) Cut the last wire from the Trigger Plug and discard the plug and the last wire is not used 24) The EMS connector can either be cut off or left alone. There is nothing going to the connector that would cause a problem. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: June-28-2014 at 7:51pm
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I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on this. When I install the new dizzy, do I need to have the number 1 cylinder on the compression stroke or do I just drop it and I'm good to go? I'm also assuming standard rotation is left rotation. Is this correct. Look like I'm going with the DUI and a set of Live Wires. Does anyone know if the live wire set-up is designed to go under the manifolds like the stock Protec ones? Can't wait to make the swap, Just a little nervous about doing it by myself. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-28-2014 at 8:50pm
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If you were replacing a regular distributor, you could see which way the old rotor was facing and do the new one pointing to the same place. I don't know if the Protec unit gives a similar reference point. #1 TDC is your best bet. On the live wires, you'd have to ask the company about length if no one else weighs in. Take some pics along the way and In sure you'll get plenty of help here. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: June-28-2014 at 11:03pm
About the same price as the SkiDim replacement with our discount. Not sure if the wires will be the right length? Guy at Summit wasn't sure if they were meant to be routed under the manifolds. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-29-2014 at 12:37am
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I would get the dizzy from Performance Dist, cut out the middle guy since they make the cure e custom. You want to build the wires yourself, they won't be a standard length that will work on a car. I still want the dizzy/oil pump, check you PM's. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: June-29-2014 at 12:42am
Price is the same from Summit for the dizzy. And free shipping. I've never cut and made my own plug wires. So something like this:  ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-29-2014 at 10:34am
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You could ask Performance Distributor about live wires for Marine. Otherwise, TRBenj mentions a particular kit in one of these DUI threads. I'll see if I can find that. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: June-29-2014 at 11:58am
The ones TRBenj recommended are the ones I posted above. I'll probably go with those. Just need to get the crimper tool. Does anyone have pics of their conversion so I can see how it looks and how the wires were run? Also should I stick with the 90 degree boots or go with something different? I think my options are: straight, 90 or 135 degree. I also have a question about timing. Manual states the following: Static: 10 degrees BTDC 700 RPM: 18 Degrees 3600 RPM: 30 degrees Ford, 26 degrees Ford H/O. Is the GT40 considered H/O? Mine is the 285 HP model. Are these the correct timing settings with the conversion? Do I need to open up the spark plug gap? Stock plugs are fine I'm assuming. I changed them last year. SHould I use them or get a new set? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I have everything covered as I'll be doing this by myself. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 2:10am
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There's a pic of Tim's motor and the wiring routing in the diary of his 90. I'm sure there are other good ones but I know he's running a DUI on that motor: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1067" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1067 Yours is indeed an HO if it's 285hp. One of the benefits of the DUI is it lets you run a bigger plug gap, which I'd think is a more powerful spark. I'm not sure if you have to or not, I'd have to let others weigh in on that. You'd probably be leaving some performance on the table if you didn't but I don't know if there's harm leaving it or not. If it was me and I was removing all the plugs, I'd tend to replace them, but that's totally up to you. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 2:17am
I was talking about opening up the gap on the plugs. |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 2:24am
| I'd change the plugs and index the new set while you're at it, they're cheap and you'll have 8 to choose from. I didn't like the 90 degree boots, but I have GT40p's so the plug angle is different. The pic I sent you has 45's on a long boot like the one in your pic. Mine are for a 4.6 or 5.4 Ford, they sent them by mistake, but I like them because they come out to the edge of the manifold and they're easy to grab so I used them instead of the 45's I ordered. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 9:57am
So index the plugs so the grounding strap is facing down towards the bottom of the head as best I can right? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 12:13pm
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I think Don meant "gap" when he said index. It's important to properly torque your plugs, but I don't think you have to worry about which way your ground straps are facing. I'm sure there are guys in this site with their ground straps all aligned though, haha ;) |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 1:08pm
| No I meant index, cheap free power, the gap should face down. If you had the heads off you would see that you have 90 degrees or so where the gap is open twords the piston so anything in that range is good. When the gap faces the head the mixture has to get around one side of the plug to see the spark. Not a huge deal, 2 or 3hp per cylinder but it's noticeable if there are enough of them facing the wrong way. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 1:55pm
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Good to know fellas. what is the proper torque for the plugs? I will try to index them like you said. I read up on how to do it. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 2:18pm
| I find the easiest thing to do is search Boxwrench.com for 351 Windsor, they have torque specs for everything you can think of. I don't even try to remember things like that anymore, always look them up so I'm not guessing at it. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 10:47pm
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OK, a few more questions: I'm pretty sure I have the GT40 heads on our boat. Are these aluminum or cast iron? Plugs are Autolite 764 (14mm) gapped to 0.055" and torqued to 18-22 ft lbs. (Al) 25-30 ft lbs (cast iron). Am I correct? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: June-30-2014 at 10:59pm
| Should be cast iron, 3 bars on the end is GT40, 4 bars is GT40p. That plug gap sounds big, I think the ProTec was .045. 764/104 are the same plugs, one has threads all the way, the other has them half way. 765 would be +1 on the heat range, 763 would be -1 on the heat range. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-01-2014 at 12:04am
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Your wasting your time indexing plugs on a stock motor. Below is copied from NGK's site 4. Indexing This is for racers only !! Indexing refers to a process whereby auxiliary washers of varying thickness are placed under the spark plug's shoulder so that when the spark plug is tightened, the gap will point in the desired direction. However, without running an engine on a dyno, it is impossible to gauge which type of indexing works best in your engine. While most engines like the spark plug's gap open to the intake valve, there are still other combinations that make more power with the gap pointed toward the exhaust valve. In any case, engines with indexed spark plugs will typically make only a few more horsepower, typically less than 1% of total engine output. For a 500hp engine, you'd be lucky to get 5hp. While there are exceptions, the bottom line is that without a dyno, gauging success will be difficult. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-01-2014 at 12:06am
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The DUI allows for a bigger gap. According to this http://performancedistributors.com/faqs/%20" rel="nofollow - http://performancedistributors.com/faqs/ you're good with the .055 |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-13-2014 at 12:54pm
It appears I have GT40 heads and not the "P" heads.  ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-13-2014 at 11:18pm
| Yep those are standard 40's |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 8:47pm
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So, what's the latest here? Did you get the DUI? If so, how did the install go and how is it performing? ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 9:16pm
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DUI is on its way. I have the wires, crimpers, and other items. I'll be installing it in a few weeks after the Conway Wipeout event. I'm going to try to do a good write up with pics so we have it for others on the site. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 9:42pm
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Sweet! If my ProTec lasts through the summer I plan to tackle this project over the winter and some step-by-step directions and pictures would be awesome. I have a good feeling this thread is going into the FAQ soon. Did you buy a red one? ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-14-2014 at 9:54pm
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Yes. wires and cap are red. should have the DUI this week. I ordered it last Saturday. I'll post pics when I have everything. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: 1993R
Date Posted: July-16-2014 at 7:25pm
| Please post your pics and details of the install. I own the 1992 CC catalog cover boat. My Pro-Tec is hanging in there but I want to change out over the winter as well. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-16-2014 at 8:37pm
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I most definitely will. Just called today to see where the dizzy is and it's apparently on back order and wont be here until mid to end of next week. So still on course to install it in the beginning of August. I'll be following the wiring direction Desertskier provided on page 1 of this thread. I'll just supplement his directions with actual pics. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 8:33pm
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Finally got the dizzy today. I believe I am ready to go. I do have a few questions: Directions mention it is not recommended to run a high volume oil pump. I don't believe my stock 351W has a HVOP. Correct? Instructions recommend removing any vacuum lines while timing. Do I need to remove the line going into the carb spacer? That's the only vac line I'm aware of. It also says initial timing is 12 degrees. If I am missing anything else, let me know. Here are some pics:    ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 8:48pm
It wouldn't, not unless someone added it later.
This language is probably left over from automotive applications. On a car, there's a vacuum port on the dizzy that could further advance the timing in cruise situations. This isn't applicable to boats.
Sounds in the correct range to me. Keep in mind that the dizzy rotor turns counter clockwise. Just something to keep in mind when you're hooking up the wires. Here and there people will make the mistake of thinking it goes counter clockwise and mixing up their wiring. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 9:00pm
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Good to know. Is it safe to assume I should be seeing 24 degrees at 3000RPM like it's inscribed on the dizzy? I was also going by the manual in regards to rotor rotation and wiring.   ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 9:06pm
I think that means the dizzy has 24 degrees of advance all in by 3000rpm. This combined with your 12 degrees static would have you at 36 degrees at 3000rpm. I would drop that back a couple of degrees to 34 and check that at higher rpm 4000-5000rpm it goes no higher. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 9:10pm
Ok, cool. Good that you have images of the manual in front of you. On the timing... that's a good question actually. My first inclination is that you should have 24 degrees of advance for something like 35-36 degrees total timing. (Just saw Lewy's post; we're on the same page.) But then, I've heard it said that the GT heads don't require as much advance. I remember Skidim at one point, listing on clearance a dizzy that was specifically curved for GT-40 heads. But I don't know how much less is the norm, like how much total advance a GT-40 head equipped engine should be seeing. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 9:11pm
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That makes sense. Is it OK to check the timing on the hose in the driveway or do I need to have the engine under load on the water? ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 9:15pm
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You can check it in the driveway. At least the idle speed initial for sure. If you're were revving it up, you'd want to make sure your tranny doesn't have a dirty neutral, because you don't want your driveshaft to be spinning on a dry strut bearing. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 9:19pm
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I had her on the hose quite a bit lately and the prop never spins when she's in neutral. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 9:39pm
| Timing on our mech advance dizzys does not depend on load, only rpm... You can do it all on the hose. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 10:54pm
Is this mock-up the best way to crimp the tach and power wires to the provided terminal ends? Just going to use the black crimpers on right to roll the prongs over onto the wire. Correct? I'm used to the tube style terminal ends not these with "arms".  ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-30-2014 at 11:49pm
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The black crimpers you have are good for the tube style terminal ends. The terminal "ends with arms" I think go with a crimper that has a special die that will roll the arms in automatically as it's squeezed. But, those aren't the terminal ends you're actually using? |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 12:08am
Those are the ends that came with the dizzy. There is another piece they go into that clamps them to the dizzy cap. I believe my spark plug wire crimper tool has the dies for this type of terminal end. If these are the correct dies, do I strip the wire like my previous pic or do I place the supplied terminal ends unstripped and allow the crimpers to roll then ends over piercing the wire inside?    ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 1:41am
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I believe you want to "strip the wire like my previous pic." If you put them over the insulation, it's unlikely it would pierce through with enough bite to get you a good contact. If you happen to have heat shrink tubing laying around, it wouldn't hurt to put that over the terminal end. Actually, they have a type of insulation that can actually be painted on after as well. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 8:01am
I have plenty of heat shrink tubing. Do I use the black die in the pic or the one with the colored dots? My guess would be the black die as the die seems to be more rounded and would close those posts tighter around the wire. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 9:45am
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I would strip the wire to less length & have those end tangs crimp down on insulation. I think that is why they are wider. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 10:07am
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There's a gap below the spade head. I could always flatten the stripped wire and shove it under the spade head and wrap the prongs around the insulated part of the wire. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 10:08am
Yeah try the black dies. Changing the terminals out is not an option? Are you familiar with Skycraft on Fairbanks? This is about the point I'd go there. I never fully understood those terminals but from my experience I think they're a poor design |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 10:14am
Good point and sharp eye Chris. I didn't notice the wider set of arms. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 10:21am
I think we have some terminal ends here at work I can practice on. And yes, I am familiar with Skycraft. Love that place. I could also solder the wire to the terminals for some added strength. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 10:24am
I disagree guys. Those are the only tangs for making contact with the bare wire. You crimp them on the insulation and the only contact you'll have is a few ragged strands of the wire on the spade lug itself. A marginal connection at best. You might be able to solder it after crimping in that fashion (if you know what you're doing) but then you'll heat up the insulation making the crimp marginal at best then. I would just crimp on the bare wire myself. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 10:33am
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The crimp is definitely designed so that the pair of tangs closest to the blade crimp down on the stripped wire, preferably after being tinned, and that the second set crimp down upon the insulation providing a strain relief for the first set. Its actually a pretty tough connector to do a good job crimping with anything other than a connector specific tool set but every ignition company still seems to send them out. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 10:45am
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I have regular waterproof spade connectors at the house. The only thing I would lose would be the brown clips that the terminal end goes into. I would just run each spade to the each post on the coil. It's always an option if the supplied connectors cause me issues. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: July-31-2014 at 9:50pm
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Do I need to put assembly lube or motor oil on the dizzy cam gear or does it go in dry? Directions don't mention anything about it needed lube. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 2:21pm
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In your first photo there, what is that small device packed on the red and white cardboard? ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 2:32pm
It's an inline spark tester. You can use the spark plug instead if you prefer, but the tester helps lessen the risk of getting shocked  JP - Definitely watching your progress - I'll probably be doing this in the future too |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-01-2014 at 2:46pm
Yeah. It was only $10 and I figured it wouldn't hurt to add one to my toolbox. Called the manufacturer today and they said I can install the dizzy dry, but if I was concerned, a little cam lube on the gear would certainly not hurt. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-03-2014 at 6:43pm
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Got the swap done today. Beat the serious rain by about 2 minutes. She was a little tough to start, but once we set the idle timing at 12 she purred like a kitten. I did notice my plugs were very white. I need to adjust the carb to fatten it up. Its a 4010. Not sure which way to turn the mixture screws on the side (in or out). Still need to clean up a few things (the coil insulation on the bell housing and some wire separators). I think it came out great. Looks like I have enough room to put the plastic cover back on, but not sure I well. I ruined the supplied tach and 12V terminal ends, so I used weatherproof ones. Oh well. I will do the write up shortly. Here are some pics:    ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-03-2014 at 8:06pm
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Congrats on getting it up and running. Looks great
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Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 2:25am
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Sweet! Looking forward to seeing the write up. Congrats on completing the job. Have you done an on-the-water test yet? ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: AAM196
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 2:56am
| nice upgrade! |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 9:45am
No water test yet. It started to rain as we finished up. I'll definitely be taking it out next Saturday for a full day of running it. Once timed properly she fired right up. Going from 3000 rpm straight to closed throttle resulted in no rpm dips or stumbles like she used to. She ran nice and smooth. Gonna fire her up today again and double check everything. In my pic it appears my idle might be at 14 degrees. I need to double check that. I also want to take some more pics of how I ran the plug wires and to clean up a few things while I'm in there. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 1:12pm
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A couple more pics. The spark arrestor hose barely makes contact with one of the wires. Not sure if I will swap it out or what. Going to get another set of wire organizers to tidy everything up a bit nicer. Wifey misses the plastic cover, so I am going to modify it to fit over the dizzy. I have clearance on the top, just need to notch the front to clear the wires.    ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 1:40pm
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Looks great. It's funny that your wife is poking around under the doghouse. I thought the doghouse was the one place where a man is safe from interior design suggestions, LOL. I wouldn't lose sleep over the spark arrester hose touching a wire. |
Posted By: halfnelly
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 2:20pm
| Nice work! |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 2:30pm
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Nice to see attention to detail. Can you flip the mesh part of flame arrestor over to make it clear? Hose will probably be short. Even if it touches doubt it would be a problem. |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 2:39pm
Those hose adaptors usually screw (or are riveted in) ....you can move it if you want........ Nice job - The Barefoot will be needing this in the future - we had the DUI on the Tique - loved it! ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 11:12pm
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Nice work! I see a riser gasket replacement in your near future! You have some leaks there...and you do not want any water leaking to the engine... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 11:19pm
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I think those leaks were from before when the PO had the boat. I've never seen water leaking from either riser. the rust stains drive me nuts. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: August-04-2014 at 11:28pm
| If it's it leaking you won't see it wet, you'll see the stains. Clean it up and give it squirt of paint, if it comes back it's still leaking. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-05-2014 at 8:39am
Good to know. I'll just replace the gaskets. They're only $10 each from what I can find on SkiDim. Pretty straight forward to change right? Just remove the 4 bolts on top of the riser, clean the mating surfaces and reinstall the riser???Looks like the tab on the gasket faces forward on my set-up. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: August-05-2014 at 9:13am
More like remove the two short bolts... break the two long bolts... get the torch out heat the riser... vice grips on the remaining part of the bolt... hope for the bolt to spin free.  Not to hard really. |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-05-2014 at 9:38am
| Yeah it looks easy but the heat destroys those bolts and threads. Hope you're good at sweating bolts. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-05-2014 at 9:54am
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Maybe enjoy your new distributor for at least a few runs first
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Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-05-2014 at 9:59am
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The gasket surfaces on my risers & manifolds were very pitted, so I surfaced them with a 2X6 wrapped with emery cloth. Took a while. I would wait for off-season to work on the risers. You may even want to pull the manifolds entirely off so you can paint them without masking the rest of the engine - if so, that's a good time to replace valve cover gaskets too. It just keeps getting deeper doesn't it? ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-05-2014 at 10:28am
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I think I may just wait for the off season if the job is as problematic as you guys are saying. I'd hate to have to miss time on the water due to the broken bolt issues that seem extremely likely to happen. I suck at removing broken bolts, so this sounds like a job I am going to hate. The header bolts are pretty rusty, so I think it's safe to assume those are going to give me a little trouble as well. Yup, this will have to wait, but I can gather up gaskets and such just in case something goes wrong between now and then. Gotta love being a boat owner.......it's always something. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-05-2014 at 10:53am
| For peace of mind, paint them and see if rust comes back. |
Posted By: halfnelly
Date Posted: August-05-2014 at 11:12am
| Looks like the rust is just on top the existing paint, You could probably get it off with a little hull cleaner or Eagle One Mag Wheel Cleaner and a rag. Both are acid and will get rid of rust stains quickly. Then you can check and see if they come back. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-05-2014 at 2:45pm
I'll give this a whirl and see if they come back. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-06-2014 at 3:18pm
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Plan on doing the write up tonight. Should I post it in the engine repair section or general discussion? Figured it would be best to not have to weed through 4 pages of questions and answers in a "how to" post. Figured I'd make it separate from this thread, but supply a link to here to address any questions that we have already answered. ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-06-2014 at 3:33pm
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Cool. I would put in under "Engine Repair" Also, it would be a good to post a link to your writeup in KRoundy's FAQ thread. |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-06-2014 at 3:37pm
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Put it in the engine repair section, and I'll put a link in my FAQ! Kevin ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |