ProTec Ignition replacement question |
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lewy2001
Grand Poobah Joined: March-19-2008 Location: NSW Australia Status: Offline Points: 2234 |
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I think that means the dizzy has 24 degrees of advance all in by 3000rpm. This combined with your 12 degrees static would have you at 36 degrees at 3000rpm. I would drop that back a couple of degrees to 34 and check that at higher rpm 4000-5000rpm it goes no higher. |
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If you're going through hell, keep going
89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Good to know. Is it safe to assume I should be seeing 24 degrees at 3000RPM like it's inscribed on the dizzy?
I was also going by the manual in regards to rotor rotation and wiring. |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
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It wouldn't, not unless someone added it later.
This language is probably left over from automotive applications. On a car, there's a vacuum port on the dizzy that could further advance the timing in cruise situations. This isn't applicable to boats.
Sounds in the correct range to me. Keep in mind that the dizzy rotor turns counter clockwise. Just something to keep in mind when you're hooking up the wires. Here and there people will make the mistake of thinking it goes counter clockwise and mixing up their wiring. |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Finally got the dizzy today. I believe I am ready to go. I do have a few questions:
Directions mention it is not recommended to run a high volume oil pump. I don't believe my stock 351W has a HVOP. Correct? Instructions recommend removing any vacuum lines while timing. Do I need to remove the line going into the carb spacer? That's the only vac line I'm aware of. It also says initial timing is 12 degrees. If I am missing anything else, let me know. Here are some pics: |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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I most definitely will. Just called today to see where the dizzy is and it's apparently on back order and wont be here until mid to end of next week.
So still on course to install it in the beginning of August. I'll be following the wiring direction Desertskier provided on page 1 of this thread. I'll just supplement his directions with actual pics. |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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1993R
Groupie Joined: July-27-2005 Location: Gainesville Fl. Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Please post your pics and details of the install. I own the 1992 CC catalog cover boat. My Pro-Tec is hanging in there but I want to change out over the winter as well.
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Yes. wires and cap are red. should have the DUI this week. I ordered it last Saturday. I'll post pics when I have everything.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Sweet! If my ProTec lasts through the summer I plan to tackle this project over the winter and some step-by-step directions and pictures would be awesome. I have a good feeling this thread is going into the FAQ soon.
Did you buy a red one? |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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DUI is on its way. I have the wires, crimpers, and other items. I'll be installing it in a few weeks after the Conway Wipeout event. I'm going to try to do a good write up with pics so we have it for others on the site.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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So, what's the latest here? Did you get the DUI? If so, how did the install go and how is it performing?
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
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Yep those are standard 40's
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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It appears I have GT40 heads and not the "P" heads. |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
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The DUI allows for a bigger gap.
According to this http://performancedistributors.com/faqs/ you're good with the .055 |
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
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Your wasting your time indexing plugs on a stock motor.
Below is copied from NGK's site 4. Indexing This is for racers only !! Indexing refers to a process whereby auxiliary washers of varying thickness are placed under the spark plug's shoulder so that when the spark plug is tightened, the gap will point in the desired direction. However, without running an engine on a dyno, it is impossible to gauge which type of indexing works best in your engine. While most engines like the spark plug's gap open to the intake valve, there are still other combinations that make more power with the gap pointed toward the exhaust valve. In any case, engines with indexed spark plugs will typically make only a few more horsepower, typically less than 1% of total engine output. For a 500hp engine, you'd be lucky to get 5hp. While there are exceptions, the bottom line is that without a dyno, gauging success will be difficult. |
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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Should be cast iron, 3 bars on the end is GT40, 4 bars is GT40p. That plug gap sounds big, I think the ProTec was .045. 764/104 are the same plugs, one has threads all the way, the other has them half way. 765 would be +1 on the heat range, 763 would be -1 on the heat range.
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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OK, a few more questions:
I'm pretty sure I have the GT40 heads on our boat. Are these aluminum or cast iron? Plugs are Autolite 764 (14mm) gapped to 0.055" and torqued to 18-22 ft lbs. (Al) 25-30 ft lbs (cast iron). Am I correct? |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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I find the easiest thing to do is search Boxwrench.com for 351 Windsor, they have torque specs for everything you can think of. I don't even try to remember things like that anymore, always look them up so I'm not guessing at it.
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Good to know fellas. what is the proper torque for the plugs? I will try to index them like you said. I read up on how to do it.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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No I meant index, cheap free power, the gap should face down. If you had the heads off you would see that you have 90 degrees or so where the gap is open twords the piston so anything in that range is good. When the gap faces the head the mixture has to get around one side of the plug to see the spark. Not a huge deal, 2 or 3hp per cylinder but it's noticeable if there are enough of them facing the wrong way.
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
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I think Don meant "gap" when he said index.
It's important to properly torque your plugs, but I don't think you have to worry about which way your ground straps are facing. I'm sure there are guys in this site with their ground straps all aligned though, haha ;) |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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So index the plugs so the grounding strap is facing down towards the bottom of the head as best I can right? |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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I'd change the plugs and index the new set while you're at it, they're cheap and you'll have 8 to choose from. I didn't like the 90 degree boots, but I have GT40p's so the plug angle is different. The pic I sent you has 45's on a long boot like the one in your pic. Mine are for a 4.6 or 5.4 Ford, they sent them by mistake, but I like them because they come out to the edge of the manifold and they're easy to grab so I used them instead of the 45's I ordered.
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
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I was talking about opening up the gap on the plugs. |
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
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There's a pic of Tim's motor and the wiring routing in the diary of his 90. I'm sure there are other good ones but I know he's running a DUI on that motor:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1067 Yours is indeed an HO if it's 285hp. One of the benefits of the DUI is it lets you run a bigger plug gap, which I'd think is a more powerful spark. I'm not sure if you have to or not, I'd have to let others weigh in on that. You'd probably be leaving some performance on the table if you didn't but I don't know if there's harm leaving it or not. If it was me and I was removing all the plugs, I'd tend to replace them, but that's totally up to you. |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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The ones TRBenj recommended are the ones I posted above. I'll probably go with those. Just need to get the crimper tool. Does anyone have pics of their conversion so I can see how it looks and how the wires were run? Also should I stick with the 90 degree boots or go with something different? I think my options are: straight, 90 or 135 degree. I also have a question about timing. Manual states the following: Static: 10 degrees BTDC 700 RPM: 18 Degrees 3600 RPM: 30 degrees Ford, 26 degrees Ford H/O. Is the GT40 considered H/O? Mine is the 285 HP model. Are these the correct timing settings with the conversion? Do I need to open up the spark plug gap? Stock plugs are fine I'm assuming. I changed them last year. SHould I use them or get a new set? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I have everything covered as I'll be doing this by myself. |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
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You could ask Performance Distributor about live wires for Marine.
Otherwise, TRBenj mentions a particular kit in one of these DUI threads. I'll see if I can find that. |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Price is the same from Summit for the dizzy. And free shipping. I've never cut and made my own plug wires. So something like this: |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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I would get the dizzy from Performance Dist, cut out the middle guy since they make the cure e custom. You want to build the wires yourself, they won't be a standard length that will work on a car.
I still want the dizzy/oil pump, check you PM's. |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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About the same price as the SkiDim replacement with our discount. Not sure if the wires will be the right length? Guy at Summit wasn't sure if they were meant to be routed under the manifolds.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4945 |
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If you were replacing a regular distributor, you could see which way the old rotor was facing and do the new one pointing to the same place. I don't know if the Protec unit gives a similar reference point. #1 TDC is your best bet.
On the live wires, you'd have to ask the company about length if no one else weighs in. Take some pics along the way and In sure you'll get plenty of help here. |
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