Moving in to the garage

Dumb question I guess, but what's that third tube, that looks kind of like an exhaust tube? I see the port and starboard exhausts, but there is another one that looks almost like a third exhaust next to the drive-shaft.

I am planning on basically putting it back like it was. Doug fir, foam. I am no engineer so I feel it is best for me to just do it like it was since I am opening a can a worms I dont understand by trying to change anything. It lasted 25 years and I figure with epoxy and cpes this should last even longer.

I have kicked around the idea of a wood floor with a layer of glass over it. I am no fiberglass expert and I think this may be cheaper. Maybe this is a mistake though as the wood would likely not last as long as just glass.

Jllogan wrote: I think the piece laying to the left was an attempted repair. Can can anyone confirm this? I think the piece around the pylon is part of the rest of the floor on other stringer jobs I have seen

Justin - I'm just ripping into my 1984 SN 2001 and have found that same piece. I guess it isn't a repair attempt. I thought the same thing. It really looks out of place and the screws seemed like something they wouldn't have used at the factory. I'll have some more pics this weekend to compare.

Hollywood wrote: Jllogan wrote: I think the piece laying to the left was an attempted repair. Can can anyone confirm this? I think the piece around the pylon is part of the rest of the floor on other stringer jobs I have seen Not a repair. The cradle goes in after all the glassing is done, so that plywood covers it up before the carpet goes down.

Yes apparently not, it was very strang as it had 3 screws in it? two on one side and one on the other, seemed weird at first but I guess thats how they roll at CC circa 1986.

CC didnt start incorporating the floor around the pylon into the rest of the glassed-over floor until '89, Im guessing. Thats how my '90 was built, anyways. Like HW said, all cradled Ski Nautiques from '80-88 will have that removable piece. The newer/wider tabbed cradles that CC started using in '89 are notched to slide easily below the floor on the newer boats.

That is a serious winter project. I love pics. Keep them coming.

we weighed some of the bags and according to our estimation there was approx 350lbs of wet foam removed.

uckin fugly

Ok so I am planning on calling us composites this next week and placing my order for fiberglass supplies. I was planning on doing the floor as original but wrapping all the stringers in fiberglass, treating all wood with CPES and using epoxy resin. However I was reading another thread where someone did a plywood floor and no foam. I like the idea of this but my question is would this need cross bracing of some kind. I am planning on doing the glass and foam unless someone thinks no foam and a wood floor would be better, cheaper or easier.

Also I was planning on treating the old piece of removeable floor with CPES should I just brush it on?

I am guessing us composites will have recommendations on how many layers of cloth to use and how much resin? I have seen some people do 5 layers of layup for the floor. Does anyone know how many layers where original from the factory? Seems more like 2 or 3

Jllogan wrote: Also I was planning on treating the old piece of removeable floor with CPES should I just brush it on?

You mean the piece behind the motor? It's probably black with mold and oil and I wouldn't hesitate to replace it with new.

As for CPES, it is almost as thin as water, just brush it on with cheap disposable chip brushes (harbor freight, box of 12. 3" for $5.99) Make sure you give it 2 good coats wet on wet , don't let it dry between coats. On plywood edges you could even give an extra helping.

Ok so, I am still tentatively planning on going original on the floor, but keeping the wood floor with no foam on the table. For the original floor it looks like there was about 1/4 inch of fiberglass. Will the 5 gallon kit of epoxy resin be enough?

also planning on ordering 2 16 lb kits of foam.

yes well it didnt fall apart or rot in two so I guess if you count that as lasting then it lasted. The main stringers are still solid no rot. just the secondaries rotted at the tops, bottoms are still solid where it didnt delaminate. However, its all coming out.

Eric, since you are a no foam guy, if I went with a plywood floor and no foam how much extra reinforcement do you think the floor would need?

Pete, I am assuming he's asking about what type of additional supports may be required below the floor in order to replace the strength of the foam. I believe both Joe and Gundriver added ribs spaced every 12-18" on their foamless 2001 rebuilds.

Pete, the support is not only for the floor, but for the hull. The smaller, thicker hull boats can get away with fewer supports. Im willing to bet that the 2001 cant- I know the BFN and my '90 oilcanned badly without the foam.

As far as your floor joist analogy goes, thats a bit of a stretch. Without the foam or other structural members (besides the stringers), there are gaps larger than 16" (forward of where the secondaries end), and the entire length of the floor would be cantilevered outbound of the secondaries... you dont see that much in home floor construction.

I just checked the basement- I could not find any ply (floor) cantilevered beyond the outermost floor joist!    For some reason, the builders saw fit to support the floor all the way to the edge? Even on the smaller boats with sufficiently strong hulls (and no ribs required), Id be blocking the floor at the edge.

And yes, we're talking about the floor, but we're talking about the hull, too. Have you ever set foot in a gutted 2001 (or newer)? The hull is very thin, and the spans between supports (stringers) is quite large, in some areas. Ask Joe what he thinks!