HOORAY!!! I think I have Wet Foam

Having gone through the foam removal thing some years ago, I have some suggestions.
Don't try to re-foam the boat with pour-in-place foam. It doesn't contribute much to structural rigidity. If you want flotation, either buy blocks and cut to fit or, I don't thin the pool noodles are not a bad idea. I have no idea what the durability of those would be. The only downside I found was that the hull noise from the water is a bit louder without the foam.

Don't try to put the glass over the bilge with thoughts of sealing out water. Water will get in no matter what you do. Build a good support frame for the plywood floor and upsize the floorboard pieces to 3/4" plywood. If the boat currently has the glass pan type floorboard in it, junk it and replace with the plywood.

The USCG requirement for flotation in those days was (and I think still is) that when submerged the boat must not sink completely to the bottom. Meaning that as long as the bow light is still showing above the surface, it's legal.

Having said all of that, I did sink my '65 Ski to the bottom one night after removing the foam. I put it the lake, tied it out, and left the lake. About midnight I woke up and remembered that I had not put the plug in. Pulled it out, took the starter, alternator and voltage regulator off and put them in the oven on "warm" with the door open, and had it running within 12 hours. Of course changed oil and trans fluid. Surprisingly, there was no water in either.

Wes,
Take it in and get it checked. Also ask the shop about the diode. Yes, there are diodes creating the full wave bridge rectification but that's for the output. Don't forget there is also a excitation from the regulator back to the alternator. BTW, don't take it to Autozone or any auto supply for that matter. You want to go to a good "auto electric" shop. In fact, it would be a good idea to take the regulator with you.

Wes, it looks like a brand new boat, great job!

Thanks Tim, That's why you are a Grand Poobah and I never will be

wwchevy wrote: I took the boat out to the lake a few times and it ran great. We skied behind it quite a bit, but no tubing...yet. One remaining problem is a 8 amp drain on the battery when the key is off. I systematically disconnected components until I narrowed it down to the alternator / regulator circuit. I am thinking it is internal to the alternator. Hopefully I am on the right path....but I always think that I thought I would post this picture to contrast with the first picture in this thread.

Easier to compare when theyre on the same page...

Before:



Nice difference!

I took the boat out to the lake a few times and it ran great. We skied behind it quite a bit, but no tubing...yet. One remaining problem is a 8 amp drain on the battery when the key is off. I systematically disconnected components until I narrowed it down to the alternator / regulator circuit. I am thinking it is internal to the alternator. Hopefully I am on the right path....but I always think that

I thought I would post this picture to contrast with the first picture in this thread.

Wes,
I have a good friend who has a wood shop I would like to take you up on your offer to borrow one of your original ones to see if he can duplicate for me and I would gladly send it back to you.
Mike

A-WE-SOME!!

She looks beautiful Wes!

Wes,
Could you give me the measurements on the teak steps on the deck, I need a set made for a 1973 Martinique, Ask who made them for you ?

Beautiful!

I bought a ladder from Ski it Again. com thanks to a heads up from a member here. It was from a Southwind and didn't fit. I had to cut a section out of the rail on top so it would fit on top of the transom and had to remove a length of material out of the back because it was too long. A friend welded the rails back together and I routered new, wider Teak steps. Turned out pretty good. I have banned my wife from the boat for being a non believer. (she can ski behind it, but cannot get in, so she better not fall). She says stuff l ike" you paid $100.00 for that ladder then had to cut ip up AND make your own steps??" Woman you are officially banned....again.

Rebuilt the trans myself. I am by no means an expert, but I have rebuilt engines. I bought a new Damper, Trans rebuild kit and gathered information. It went well (not as well as if Eric rebuilt it) Pulled the trans back out and switched the pump orientation. Pumps for Clockwise rotation (RH) engines should have LH cast mark up top. I am sure of that now. I put it in gear and the trans did nothing. A little reading and troubleshooting and now I put it in gear and it spins. Everything I do has a steep learning curve.


RH marking up top is WRONG for a Clockwise rotation engine


LH up top is correct

No, if you can believe it- I was moving along nicely, it fell off my endless list and I forgot about bilge paint and didn't feel like going back. I am going to pull the engine and rebuild it this winter and I will paint it then.

That looks great!
Nice job!!

Nice work