1950 CC Junior Utility Restoration

juniorwoody wrote: Quick question, what does everyone think...should I pull the keel, which is solid and firmly attached, only to rebond it back with the 5200 ? I mean where does it end?

Exactly Jack, Where does it end, might as well pull the chines too right?

I did not pull and refasten the keel on the Hurricane (I did however replace a few frame members so I guess it was partially refastened) but I did replace all the knee braces and secured them with plenty of 5200. I think you're fine leaving it if you really feel it's in good shape. Don't forget you'll be using 5200 to fasten the new bottom, I can't imagine the keel will be going anywhere.

1morecase wrote: I think if you retain 60% of the original wood, you would still be a bonified restoration, if you wanted to show your boat. Keep up the great work! Ed

Ed,
I don't know where you came up with the 60%. To my knowledge, current ACBS rules state only one original main structural component is needed to maintain originality. The rule is a very "heated" topic and in need of change.

I thank Allen, Pete and Ed for their input. I guess one must weigh the desire to do a complete job versus the inherent and intrinsic value that exists in original members that have withstood the test of time and also preserve some of the flavor and history of the vessel. To be complete it is imperative that all deteriorated parts must be repaired or replaced. That accomplished I feel compelled to leave as much original and untouched as possible. To that end, I will try and repair the hull plywood above the chines. Scarph joints already exsist from the original construction so adding a couple more should not be a problem. The bottom material has been patched and also has a couple dimples hard set from sitting on the bunks in the wrong position. Because of these problems and it's location I have decided to replace. I will follow the advice from Allen and R &R all knee braces. As a woodworker I have contemplated the possibility of making a new boat from scratch using patterns from an old, but it just wouldn't be the same would it. These old hulls have a spirit that just can't be fabricated.

boat dr wrote: I have followed and watched your progress , often reflecting on my efforts to save a many from the termites as possible. I have to applaude you on abilty to walk the narrow line between "user correct" and " she's better than new". Karen and I use all our Woody's , some more than others, but they do get used and not left on the trailer as "yard art". The joy of the first ride will be worth all the grief suffered

These kind words of encouragement along with others I have received from a few seasoned veterans who have been confronted with similar issues on their project, are so important to the novice. Woodworker I am, boat restorer is a title I lay no claim to at this point so a good dose of humility is in order. The strips of mahogany in the following represent a turning of the tide on this project. I have decided to tackle the stem first and these are to be steam bent for that purpose. They still need to be sized up a little.

Jack,
The picture below was copied from another site where the poster was having issues with scarfing. It shows what you do NOT what to do - end up with epoxy on the finished surface. It will not take a stain where the epoxy soaked in. It's the reason I've mentioned the only way to do the scarf with todays 1/64" face veneers (no sanding room) is to pre fill/stain and then a couple coats of varnish before making the scarf. Any epoxy that comes out of the scarf can then be wiped off with a solvent/rag.



I needed to steam bend some small pieces one day so I ended up making a "quick and dirty" steamer! 4" EMT with a plug welded on the end and then just stuck in the BBQ.



BTW, the person with the scarf problems posted again about the stain issue but didn't post a picture! The thread went dead from that point!

SNobsessed wrote: Pete, did you order that from the Brunstucky equipment company?

Actually, Eric had it out back at FFM and then when Vince took over, he wanted it junked so I was able to get it! It was still Eric's so he was nice enough to sell it to me for $500.

Several years back I spent extensive amounts of time making Shaker furniture reproductions. Amongst these the chairs being the hardest. This required a few skills I had yet to develop. At first the steaming presented the greatest challenge until I read up on it a little. I ended with an electric hotplate and a clean old red gas can that holds about 2 gals. I can easily stuff a metal pipe of any kind in the pour spout and direct the steam upwards into the box. In the past work I have used a section of roof gutter as a box but think I will use a piece of PVC drain pipe I have for this project. pete's barbecue steamer looks a bit sketchy but heh even Rube Goldberg's designs had merit and function.

juniorwoody wrote: pete's barbecue steamer looks a bit sketchy but heh even Rube Goldberg's designs had merit and function.

Back in the late 60's, I was at Watercraft Sales (still a Correct Craft dealer). Back then winters were pretty slow so they took on antique car restorations to fill in the boat work/sales. My very first steam bending project was working there. We were restoring a 1929 Auburn Phaeton convertable. All we had to start with was a rusted out body and no top. They gave me the project of making and steam bending the white Oak bows for the convertable top. No old bows to go by so everything was an educated guess. I used the same principle as the BBQ steamer - a piece of pipe capped at the end and the low end heated with the oxy acetylene torch. They came out fantastic. I made two sets - one for the Auburn we were restoring and the other set went down to Harrah's auto museum for the one they were restoring.

Quick and dirty steam bending operation. Another Rube Goldberg....

8122pbrainard wrote: Jack, The "Rube" sure will work! I seen some pretty crude boxes and your's isn't one of them.

I just got lucky on this one Pete. Looked around and assembled stuff which was right at hand. As you know is's not always that easy. One for the gipper.

You might be able to piece together something from the HVAC guys. I think the duct work is wide enough to accomodate 12in. Hope the plank isn't very thick, you'll need a Mack truck to bend it.

The birth of our new grandson Parker has taken us to the west coast. While here I have made plans to look at another woody. Can't get enough you say, well possibly so. Should it turn out to be as the pictures present we just may be hauling another boat home. Big Whitey, my Sprinter van loves to take a ride, but may not know what I have in mind crossing the states to fetch a boat. Could it be boat fever has replaced common sense? Time will tell. Promised the wife this is the last one LOL.

Waiting for me when I return in two weeks will be these...



Though I would use them now if needed, a time to season in the sprung form will do them good.

Looking good Junior, quite impressed with your patience.

Jack,
The issue of where to stop is always a hard decision to make but now is the time to do it. I'd open it up. You may even find some rot between the inner and outer keels. All of the ply gussets on the frames too. Mine were completely dry and loose just like every other joint and lamination due to the use of that bedding compound CC used.

Jack, The stem on my Hurricane was built much like you are doing. It appears they built it on the boat one layer at a time. It had hundreds of ring shank rails between each layer. No glue other than the bedding compound but that looks as though it was there from installing the bottom not during stem lay up. As long as you get the shape right anything you build with todays adhesives and sealants will be better than original.