1950 CC Junior Utility Restoration

Next question for the inquisitive mind...Did CC prefinish the hull before installing the splash rails or guards? I think this one may have come without and these could have been added as an accessory. If it's pre splash vintage than they will not be going back on.

juniorwoody wrote:

Takers?

Not sure how far you're going down. Did you say you were removing the plywood now, all the way down to frames?   That's what I would do without hesitation. It will expose any further rot issues and give you an opportunity to remove, clean and refasten all the frame knee braces.   You need to get that frame nice and sound before going any further.

I would recommend starting with one case of 5200 (12 tubes) and see how far it goes. You will need plenty more but by then you'll know how far it goes.

Buy new silicone bronze Frearson head screws too, the old ones may snap when tightened back down but even if they don't those slotted screws are a PITA.

The 5200 and fasteners are the most expensive part of the rebuild for you but I wouldn't compromise at this point.

81nautique wrote: Not sure how far you're going down. Did you say you were removing the plywood now, all the way down to frames?   That's what I would do without hesitation. It will expose any further rot issues and give you an opportunity to remove, clean and refasten all the frame knee braces.   You need to get that frame nice and sound before going any further. I would recommend starting with one case of 5200 (12 tubes) and see how far it goes. You will need plenty more but by then you'll know how far it goes. Buy new silicone bronze Frearson head screws too, the old ones may snap when tightened back down but even if they don't those slotted screws are a PITA. The 5200 and fasteners are the most expensive part of the rebuild for you but I wouldn't compromise at this point.

Thanks for the info Alan. I will follow the advice. I am taking all the plywood off and will address all the knee braces etc. Think the 5200 mat be available at HD. Know I can get it at Jamestown. Will check pricing.

Jack, white 5200 is $12.99 and Mahagony is $14.99 at Jamestown, that's about the best I've been able to find lately. Thankfully I'm done spending money on that stuff. I have heard that some HD stores have it now but don't know the cost.

If you buy from Jamestown and they do not have a free freight special running use "Flat5" in the coupon code when checking out and that will get you $5 freight on your entire order.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=11151&partNumber=5376793&langId=-1

Is this the proper fastener?

8122pbrainard wrote: Link to West Those are oval heads. Don't you need flats for the hull? You may find a better selection and I know better pricing at Jamestown

Thanks Pete, figured I needed the flat heads and Jamestown has a better price. Looks like I may need about 700 in several sizes.

Is there any discussion as to when to use waterproof carpenters glue and when to use 5200
I think I should bond the three piece upper transom member with waterproof white glue then CPES.

Jack,
I wouldn't even consider a PVA (white/yellow)glue even if you use the claimed to be "waterproof" Titebond III. The only thing I would use and only in areas where you don't see any movement such as the stem lamination is a urethane or epoxy. The reason 5200 has been so successful with wood boat hulls is it will flex to a point. The opposite is true with epoxy and the reason the failure rate is very high.

81nautique wrote: Jack, Maybe a few update photos of the upper transom members you are referring to would help. Regarding the waterproof carpenters glue are you talking about polyurethane like Gorilla Grip? I haven't seen anyone use a water proof carpenter glue anywhere on a wood boat resto yet. IF it where me I would use thickened epoxy if you are laminating anything or 5200 if you are bedding pieces together at a joint. Again, pictures of the repair would be helpful

The problem with not reading back a post or two. My question answered. I am loading more pics today Alan. Thanks for the input.

Jack,
No on the CPES for bonding. It's a sealer and a primer.

juniorwoody wrote: Should I thicken with cabosil?

In my experience, cabosil is a great light-weight filler, but your end product will be super hard(almost unworkable)...if that makes any sense. Milled fiber is another good choice.

dochockey wrote: how many of these were made?

really wish I had more information. I haven't been able to find a serial plate and can only go by the PO's information and the motor serial number. was told this was a kind of rare hull.

Jack,
I suggest putting it all back together with 5200. I'd also replace the transom frame gussets. I replaced them all (complete frame) on my Atom since the ply wasn't in great shape.

Before you get too far, check the aft lifting ring bracket and bolts to make sure they are still sound.

Are you still going to try and salvage the deck ply?

Morfoot wrote: BuffaloBFN wrote: juniorwoody wrote: Should I thicken with cabosil? In my experience, cabosil is a great light-weight filler, but your end product will be super hard(almost unworkable)...if that makes any sense. Milled fiber is another good choice. Cabosil's sole purpose in life is to make your resin thicker. If you want to add strength to it then milled fibers is the way to go!

Seems like milled fibers would be the best thickening method. Could this be very fine ground sawdust?

8122pbrainard wrote: Jack, I suggest putting it all back together with 5200. I'd also replace the transom frame gussets. I replaced them all (complete frame) on my Atom since the ply wasn't in great shape. Before you get too far, check the aft lifting ring bracket and bolts to make sure they are still sound. Are you still going to try and salvage the deck ply?

I do hope to salvage the deck. it is sound and looks to be glued tok the frames with recourcinol sp? would probably tear frames apart removing it. I isin surprisingly good condition.

The gussets need to b replaced.