Showing my ignorance 4 times in one thread!

Matt - The stain on the manifold is typical & a sign that the gaskets are nearing the end of their life. Failure isn't imminent but gasket replacement would make a good fall project.

You can get the gaskets from MyCorrectParts.com or SkiDim, they are inexpensive. When you take it apart, cleanup the cast iron surfaces until they are flat (see recent thread on this subject) & use new hardware with antiseize. Running a tap into the holes is a good idea too.

The drip at the stuffing box is normal - it should drip 5-6 times a minute - a good cross cherck is to see if it is getting hot after running a while (hot is bad).

The slight vibration of the hose behind the stuffing box is also normal - mine does this, as I have some shaft runout (bow in shaft). If you can't feel the vibration thru the floor, I would leave that sleeping dog lie. The real test is the alignment check, which you should do.

I will let Eric comment on the ATF overfill.

Have a blast with your new boat!

That slip he felt may of been the prop caviation. It may of run out of water to pull through.

yep, agreed

Hey p71 crownvic,
What model did you just buy. It looks really nice in the photos, at least the mechanical parts do. Maybe ill seed you over at the Tiki bar sometime for a GM.

john b wrote: Hey p71 crownvic, What model did you just buy. It looks really nice in the photos, at least the mechanical parts do. Maybe ill seed you over at the Tiki bar sometime for a GM.

Heck yeah. I used to work at the Blue Bayou Inn and would remember sitting in the bar after work listening to Greer and his buddy Steve talking about doing something like an outdoor bar. That was way back in '03 and '04. Glad to see they were able to get it done!

SNobsessed wrote: Matt - The shaft packing has a wax rope as the seal material. It is water lubricated & the slight dripping provides that function. I still have not seen full photos of you boat, got lost in that orig link. Please post your money shot!

So that's why there was a slight amount of water in the bilge...I guess I'll have to wipe out the bilge too when I'm done using it as I do NOT want my stringers to rot.

Oh, and you mentioned a pic:



That picture had to have been after he first got it as that little boy in the picture towers over me now....but you get the idea.

OK...I have more questions showing my ignorance.

1. Is the throttle supposed to lock in the neutral position like most other boats I have driven? If not, what are the consequences of hitting reverse while moving forward?

2. I read the length of the boat (SN 2001) is 18' 9"...is that with or without the platform?

3. Is a winch needed on the trailer? All I have is a turnbuckle.

4. How do you all secure the back of your 2001 to the trailer? Just one big strap that goes across the back?

5. Where do people tie their anchor? Pylon I assume?

6. when you tie up to a dock, where do you attach the ropes (lifting rings?). Also, where do you tie the bumpers (if you use them?)

7. What is the size of the fuel tank? The previous owner said 25 gallons, while the reference section said 31. I assume the 31 is true.

8. What is the stock trailer tire size (disregard...found it H78X15)

9. What would be some good hand tools to keep on-board?

10. What is the normal gap between the lowest part of a blade on the prop and the trailer? Mine is probably less than 1/4 inch.

1. The throttle does NOT lock in the center position. This is an inboard boat and it is supposed to "click" when in the vertical neuetral position. You can inadvertantly put it in gear by getting up out of the drivers seat. If you do need to get up make it a HABIT to pull the knob out below the throttle so if you do hit the throttle you won't put it in gear.

2. The boat is 18'9" and that is without the platform it has nothing to do with 2001 being total length that is false. Here's the link to this very topic    Why it's called a 2001

3. It isn't needed but many do have them.. I added one to mine as it didn't have one.

4. Again not necessary but I do know that some states require a Stern strap. I lash the stern down with ratcheting straps that go around the outer platform brackets and around the trailer frame where the trailer skid attaches to trailer frame.

5. I attach my anchor to the bow eye. Tying an anchor to the pole will cause rope rub on the gelcoat. That's a no-no with my boat.

6. I use a 20 ft rope on both bow and stern lifting rings tying it so that each side has 10 ft. Center your boat between the docks and tie each rope taught so that the boat doesn't rub on the dock. Basically use 4 attach points to keep it centerd in the slip.




Boat bumpers are tricky and you can buy clips that the bumper attaches to that you can slip under the gunnels or use oversiced suction cups. Can tie to pylon to then you have ropes in the way.

7. I would say 25 gallons but check the diaries for psecs on that year 2001.

10. Mine is about an inch. I too agree that 1/4 is cutting it close. I'd check to be sure that the prop guard /trialer skid isn't bent a lil' bit

WOW Matt,
You may be ignorant but, you did prove yourself to be lazy!!

Hey, to prove to all off us that you do have some mental capacity, what you need to do is get used to the site some. The reference section has literary tons of info in it and the sites search feature is fantastic!!

I'm sure glad that other members took care of your questions!!

et back to us if you don't understand any of the answers.

The further forward the boat is on the trailer. The closer the prop gets to the prop guard.

I have changed the forward support of the prop guard to remedy that situation.

The search engine can be a problem on this site. I use the Google search feature but limit it to the CCfan domain. It is faster and has less hang stall type problems. It also helps the forum to run faster for everyone else while you are searching.

BEFORE



AFTER

That's a good idea. I'll look into that when I get it. Thanks!

Bri892001 wrote: 6.) This is how I hang my fenders: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18388

Awesome!!! That's exactly the kind of information I was looking for. Thanks man!

No problem

Matt,
1. Mark with his set up strapping off to the swim brackets is pretty typical.

I do use one of the gunnel straps on all my boats but have them padded. The corner pad is commercially available (McMaster) but I glued a felt backing to them. Even on the varnished deck, they work great.



2. Many will leave the boat back from the bow stop to try to prevent the rubbing during the bouncing. However, on a longer trip, the boat will find it's way forward anyway. A load on a trailer always wants to move forward. The solution is to add a keel roller to stop the bouncing. (lower left corner of picture)



3. Play around with how deep you set the trailer in the water. The boat should center itself. BTW, the addition of a keel roller really aids in getting the boat on the trailer. It centers the boat but more importantly brings the bow of the boat up so the hull matches the angle of the trailer in the water better. The addition of a winch is also something you may want to consider. I'm not a big fan of power loading and in fact, it's banned at many ramps.

Matt - To add some more insight - sometimes my boat will end up off-center on the trailer (we found that having the boat driver sit dead center for pull out minimizes this). When it is off-center, after a few road bumps the boat will center itself on the trailer.

I use a gunnel strap, no pads, haven't had a scratch yet.

Again, thanks for all of the replies. I have this week to play around with it and practice the small stuff. Lots to learn...

BTW...I need some reassurance. With the full tank of fuel, the water is just touching the underside of the platform. Would the experts say that is a good sign that the foam is NOT saturated?

The stringer/foam issues still make me very nervous. I still have a chance to back out of this deal. I must make sure that I'm getting a solid boat. What do you think?