Starflite Rebuild

Ran this test out last week looks like it works scanning the hull into cad, with this I hope to pick off my CNC parts and have a full 3D cad record of a Starflite.

wow..state of the art at its maximum!!!

What a cool thing to have. Now you can put it into a video game!

In its current condition it would not take much to make it go underwater, the trick will be to make it stay on top.

Been checking out the hull shape on mine and found that the strut has moved a one point along with the back engine blocks which have wood dowels to fill the first holes in the stringers, it sure looks like it was done in the factory I'm thinking mine could be one of the first made in 57 as the vinyl is date stamped 56 and if the numbers on the head are the cast date again late 56 with the infill made to raise the tank on the stringers seem to be a lot of adjustments or it's a late shift Friday boat.

Check out how much mine has shrunk in 2 weeks after I stripped off the fiberglass have gaps of 1.5 to 2.5mm and its still wet in parts, I can see daylight through the hull and some of the canvas.

Also found that frames 2,3,4 are cut an inch wider so the stringers are sprung out, I like to think its so it keeps pulling in the hull at that point as the framing is real thin there, so my stringers are 21,1/2 inches apart from frame 2,3,4 then its 20,1/2 inches down the rest of the boat.

Pete, It is just hard to appreciate the beauty of a wood boat when the only thing above the waterline is the windshield and stern light. I have complete confidence that Roger will have that thing bobing on top of the water and shining in the sunlight better than the day it came from the factory.

Roger,
I think you need to reduce it farther. With one coat, the CPES wouldn't have sat on the surface and would have completely soaked in. Also with 2mm and the Mahogany being a open grain, I would expect to see more on the backside. I don't think it would take very much more solvent though.

Roger,

Have you tried West Systems? I get better penetration than your picture using West as long as I use the correct temp hardener, with no thinners.

Jack

wingwrench wrote: Roger, Have you tried West Systems? I get better penetration than your picture using West as long as I use the correct temp hardener, with no thinners. Jack

Jack,
Take a look at where Roger is located. He's using epoxies made over there and the CPES equal is very expensive.

Speaking of expensive, the same is true with West here. It's the highest priced of any.

Also, no matter what epoxy and hardener combination you use, it will not take the place of CPES.

wingwrench wrote: Pete, I checked before I posted. http://www.wessex-resins.com/westsystem/uk-distributors.html Jack

Jack,
You need to go back farther in time with Rogers posts. He's been through all the research on epoxies available in the UK. As mentioned, West over here is the highest cost of any and the same is true over there only worse!!

Also note again that West does not make a product equal to CPES. Plus, unless the new owners of West have changed their recommendations, the Gougeon Brothers always stated that their epoxies should never be reduced.

Have run a new test like Pete and the Tec call from Louisiana (Billy)said, much better soaking through needed to add allot more thinner to wash the epoxy in don't be shy with the thinner.

I have coated up 5 bits to see if I can then epoxy all together in a press with fiberglass cloth in-between to give me a strong ply for my joint plates each side of the frames.
Have gone for letting the Ceps dry over night and then bond together so I don't trap thinner in the ply.
I will be good to see how strong the ply is, should come out around 1/2 thick.

Billy its the cost here that drives me to find out about Ceps 5L tins cost around $170.00 so I'm looking at $680.00 to do 5 US gals or using my type of epoxy which they say you can thin, I have used there thinner and it works out at $49.00 gal plus I only use the epoxy/thinner mix I need and left with epoxy for other things and may have the odd bit of thinner left.
Good to talked with you Billy, there is hype around Ceps to sell it your right about the "high" floating home tonight what worries me I quite like the smell

Karen knew when I came thru the door, that odor seems to settle into your clothes..Stip off now, or do not come in,,,,,,,

Roger, Kudos on the cpes alternative but the plywood layup schedule is overkill no? That's one heck of a knee brace you're building there.

And now just because I'm bored I'll throw this out there. You're going to fasten those new knee braces with a flexible adhesive and not hard epoxy right?

8122pbrainard wrote: boat dr wrote: Be careful with the "atta boys" Roger, When I first through out the idea of "redneck" cpes, it did not go over well Yes, it didn't go over very well but you used that "red neck" thinner you had sitting around in the 5 gal bucket!! Roger's using the fancy stuff!!

Pete, while I did not receive your blessing on my boat resto,I tried with a limited budget to bring the boat back to a useable and reliable vintage boat.I admit my wooden boat skills are less than yours, but my skills with GRP and the uses of West Systems is broad.
As far as the thinner I used, MEK, is a mute point, you would not approve of anything less than Smith's, and that option was not in the check book. Bottom line is I have a boat I am using now , and still have a few dollars left for fuel......