Stringer Templates

skfitz wrote: So if you go foam-free, and if you leave drain gaps at the bottom of the bulkheads and stringers, does it really matter whether the PVC/bulkhead joints are watertight?

Not if you intend to allow all the under-floor area to drain to the bilge. Some do- including the early glass CC's (mid 60's). I dont.

My thought process is that if you leave a way for water to get out, its also an opportunity for water to get in. That means that every piece of debris that ends up in the bilge could potentially end up under your floor. While I was tinkering with ReidP's '65 Tournament Skier, I found a drain in the main stringers clogged with a few leaves... I cleaned it out and about 15 gallons of water came out. That water had been held between the starboard main stringer and the wall of the boat for who knows how long.

Instead, Im leaving a few dedicated access points to the cavities below the floor in order to drain them in case water ever finds its way in... but I am NOT draining them to the bilge. The idea is to build the boat better than the factory did and never allow water under the floor in the first place- but provide a fail safe just in case it ever does. I think opening up the entire structure to the bilge and inviting water to move freely throughout is a disaster waiting to happen. Just my humble opinion!

Riley wrote: The few old boats I've seen that haven't had rotted stringers were built this way.

Bruce, I think allowing the structure to breathe is a good thing- and thats what kept these old boats relatively rot free. However, if one of the drains plugs up and traps water, youre no better off than a foamed boat... maybe worse. Being able to get water out is definitiely the way to go, but Im also not going to give it a way in.

I understand what you're saying Tim, and I liked the story a while back about gas mixed with water going in through the drains and turning pool noodles into napalm, but I bet you've never had a leaf or any other kind of debris in your bilge.

I'd love to see someone tear into a 1993 and up boat to see if there are any problems because of the foam.

82 Nautique 1 wrote: How much epoxy resin have some of you other guys used in your total stringer/floor rebuilds ? My total materials cost is nearing $1,700.00 where do you guys buy your marine carpet from ? What weight ?

I think most will agree that you'll need about 10 gallons or so on a boat that size.

$1700 includes the cost of the wood, correct? Are you counting shipping costs too? Sounds a little high, but within reason.

The original carpet in '88 would have been in the 16oz-20oz range. 28oz became an option in '93 and is noticeably plusher. Starting in '03 or '04 Correct Craft went to 40oz. The only downsides to the plusher carpet are that it holds more water and can be a little tougher to work with when installing. One thing to keep in mind with the delux interiors starting in '87 is that the motorbox has a carpet around the bottom that you may want to match on the floor (or replace both at once). I went with a factory carpet on my '90, but have since used Marine Carpeting on several projects. Their website has always been pretty cumbersome, but their prices are very reasonable and their customer service has been very good. I suggest you call and have them send you a handful of samples in the colors and weights youre considering. You should be good with the 6' width, by the way. Id recommend getting 40-50 feet in order to give you enough for the floor, walls and all the panels.

More advice needed:

1. Glue for gluing new carpet back onto the new fiberglass floor, and supplier ?

2. What have you guys used to glue or reattach the black carpet strips where the carpet seams meet on the edges ? I think some were glued and some stapled

3. Does anyone have a picture of a 1988 Engine hatch showing the inside where the hinges and some aluminum strap and cable were attached. The boat I am working on and putting back was pretty much gone when I bought it.

Thanks for the help everyone.

Dennis

I used 3m 4200 to secure it to the floor along the sides. I used 3m Super 77 to secure to the edges of the access panel over the shaft, etc.
The Super77 is ok and has held, but it not ideal by any means.

Ryan,

Yes thanks the picture helps a lot. The aluminum straps are what I was talking about.

It appears that those screw down to the Plywood floor cover and the "CHEeSEY PLASTIC" motor cover hinges plastic piece goes between the aluminum and the pin with the black ball goes down through the hinge and floor panel.

On my 82 they used a different style hinge.

Thanks Ryan

Need a little help :

Can someone with a 1988 2001 SN give me the measurement from the center point of the rudder to the center point of the steering cable block clamp bolt.

I did not get the measurement before I removed the stringers.

Thanks much

Dennis

Shawn, sorry for the spelling ......

Bremson is 100% correct... you'll need to go through the same set up to make sure the clamp block is in the correct position anyways (even throw in both directions) so you may as well center your hole based on this. Alternatively, you could make a bracket out of a piece of angle aluminum and attach it to the strut bolts. Thats how newer Nautiques are set up (89+) and you wont have to worry about sealing up a hole in the stringer.

Recent topic:

Steering cable mount

Site etique:

Need opinion of guys.

I am almost done with my glass work on the 88 I am rebuilding. I have left over materials that I did not use. I want to help someone out that may be able to use the suplies and would sell to them 50% cost of what I paid from USC. Is it in appropriate to list the items here ? Want to do the correct thing.

Dennis

Pete,

Thanks.. you bring up a good point. I may do that.

I will see what is left when I am 100 % done with this boat

Dennis

Bilgekote ??

Need advice here guy's

I am ready to paint my bilge and I purchased Bilgekote.
Has anyone painted this product through a air sprayer ?

Is the 216 special thinner they suggest using the only type that can be used to thin the product ?

I have sanded the old factory grey gelcoat covering off that the factory applied. Do I need to prep with anything prior to spraying ?

Thanks

Dennis

I painted it on with a brush and it really laid down nicely. Unless youre super picky, I wouldnt bother spraying it. I just cleaned with acetone first.

Unfortunately, these are the best pics I have: