Teak Looks Like Cr@P!

So did you let the oil to completely penetrate the wood between each coat? or you just apply one over it in the same moment.. There are many threads on the subject..I did mine and applied almost 6 coats within 10 days I had it home.. first coast will dry out within hours, last coat I let it sit for some days and the oil was still shinny on the surface... I used some teak cleaner (citric base?) and rub the wood before putting the oil. Also I sanded with 200 and 400 paper before each coat....
this is how it turned out...

this is how it looks then in the water.. note that my boat is dry kept, in an boat facilty. I will be in water only while i use it..


wet its even better than in the other picture I posted!!!

I'll look into the Starbrite. Thx!

Good thought on the sanding. I didn't go very fine, maybe 120 grit as the finest. Could have even been 80 grit. I sanded it to get rid of the bleached wood. I know sanding is not recommnended for the exact reasons you stated. I have heard of people using bronze wool of bronze brushes. Something to think about. I wonder if there is a way to sand it, then clean the pores somehow.

Agreed, its only an platform. I love the way my SN looks, and the dried out, bleached platform makes me grumpy. I bought some Starbrite and some cleaner, I will wirebrush, clean, then apply the teak sealer and see what happens. I am sure it will look sweet when applied, the test will be how will it look on Monday after a weekend of footin'!

I put on the Natural Finish Starbright Sealer and I was unhappy with the color. It was like a mustard color. It seals it but it looks yellowish. I was kicking myself for putting it on. This was after I used the Star Brite three step system over a process of several weeks. The wood looked great until I put on the Starbright Natural Sealer. However, it has heldup well this summer.

I now have seen that SEMCO makes a clear (SEMCO TEAK SEALER) and I will try it this winter. I am hearing that it is real hard to remove the old sealer once it is put on. I also saw some Sealer Stripper ( SEMCO Teak CLeaner - 2 Part) in the Jamestown Distributors Catelog. I have heard of people having to use Castic Soda to remove the old sealer. I will not sand it off. The Semco Cleaner is what I am going to try.

If you sand to deep, it will expose the screws.

Go to www.jamestowndistributors.com, 1-800-423-0030.

They are are a Wooden Boat Builders Supply Company.

I hope this helps,

Donald

I ended up going the Starbrite route. A light sand, enough to get rid of the beached look, Starbrite Teak cleaner, and Starbrite Tropical Teak Sealer, light color. 60 bucks all told at West marine.

It looks really sweet as you can see. I will let you know how it holds up this season.

Starbrite teak oil seems to last longer than any oil I've tried, but it still won't get me through the season. This year I tried Starbrite Tropical Teak Sealer. It has held up better, but still comes off on each side where we set the hydrofoils. I wasn't crazy about the color, its brown and most teak seams to have more red in it. The middle of the platform still looks good after 90 hrs, and people comment about it often, so I guess the color isn't as far off as I think.

I'm going to put a couple of coats of oil on it next year and then the sealer to see if I can get the color a little more to my liking.

OK. so I thought I would close the loop on this one. Pictured below is my teak deck after about 3 months of use after being treated with Starbrite. I had it in the water 2-3 days per week, sometimes docked a couple days in a row. I think it wore pretty well. it did better than the teal oil and better than "Teakgard" brand.

As much as you use the boat, that's pretty good.

I use the Amazon oil. Get a lot of comments/compliments on how good the platform looks. FWIW.

When are you going to make it down to Discovery Bay? I could hook you up for a barefoot run at Diablo Shores as well.

BKH

I use a product called Sea-fin. Once you ge the teack looking great, you can actually just quickly apply a small amount in the areas that are scuffed, if you want to. Works really well.

-Steve

Riley wrote: I've got a good portion of a 1/2 gallon of Teak Guard if anyone wants to try it. IMO, it sucks. Totally different product than teak oil. It is water based and is a coating rather than a penetrating oil. I moor my boat for at least July and August. While I can make the platform look like new and beautiful, it only lasts at the most 3 weeks. I have tried all kinds of products, but none last longer than that when exposed 24/7. I have come to appreciate the beautiful weathered grey look. It is also not slippery. I do clean it and oil it when we pull the boat, and come June oil it again, but for the most part it is grey, except for when the ducks oil it for me during the summer.

I had better luck with Teak Guard than you did. My complaint is it would "scratch" where skis/boards came in contact with it. And the bummer was you couldn't touch it up. You would need to strip it then re-apply.

I have not used Amazon oil. The standard teak oils did not work for me. Maybe I didn't do it right.

Yes, I know Rich P....and Andy D and Jerry K so we are on the open invitation too...Whenever we ski with Andy usually Rich would come out with little Richie. It's the 60 miles one way that gets in the way...I am going after a CA DFG Game Warden job and my assignment for 2011-2014 will be Livermore so I will be hitting up the south Delta, Orwood, Secret Slough, and Diablo Shores alot more in the future.


Check out the videos from barefootcentral of the Royal Family Kids Camp Water and Air show:

http://www.barefootcentral.info/SFTR_USA_2009Brentwood.htm

you're just going to have to ski with Willie without me running interference...plus all the other footers I've got you in touch with AND you will be makin the 80 mile drive down to the south end of the delta to ski with me...no worries Dude

There was a thread here a year or so ago about a mastercraft guy that had perfected some elaborate process for re-doing his teak deck. It was something like a 16-18 hour process all told. Claimed that it required only light maintenance for a long period after that. If I can find it I will post it.
That said, I have not touched mine in years, but may do the Mustang deck in the Spring.