Teak Looks Like Cr@P!
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14477
Printed Date: May-11-2024 at 1:59pm
Topic: Teak Looks Like Cr@P!
Posted By: LakeBoy
Subject: Teak Looks Like Cr@P!
Date Posted: July-15-2009 at 6:02pm
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This topic has been beat into the ground, I am sure, but here we go.
When I bought my '01 last year, the teak deck was faded, and I decided to try something different (learned on this forum) to restore the look of my sweet deck: http://www.myboatstore.com/products.asp?cat=29 - Teak Guard . This is not an oil but a system that really brings out the color (like honey) and lustre of the wood. Only trouble is it scratches. It doesn't flake like varnish, but it comes off where people used the deck to put skis and boards on. You have to really refinish it entirely to get the "scratched" look out. So this year I removed all the Teak Guard, did a light sand, and put about 5 coats of teak oil, just like I did with my '95. Every time I get off the water, the deck looks as dry and bleached as it did before I put the oil on. I have recoated it after every time I go out, and still it looks like crap! Any pointers? ------------- Got Foot? |
Replies:
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: July-15-2009 at 6:18pm
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So did you let the oil to completely penetrate the wood between each coat? or you just apply one over it in the same moment.. There are many threads on the subject..I did mine and applied almost 6 coats within 10 days I had it home.. first coast will dry out within hours, last coat I let it sit for some days and the oil was still shinny on the surface... I used some teak cleaner (citric base?) and rub the wood before putting the oil. Also I sanded with 200 and 400 paper before each coat....
this is how it turned out...  ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: July-15-2009 at 6:24pm
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No doubt your deck looks great. I did allow some time between coats, but not days. How does it look after a day or two on the water? ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: July-15-2009 at 6:41pm
this is how it looks then in the water.. note that my boat is dry kept, in an boat facilty. I will be in water only while i use it..
wet its even better than in the other picture I posted!!! ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-15-2009 at 9:42pm
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Starbrite makes a teak SEALER. I used the light formula and it is holding up very well. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: July-16-2009 at 3:41pm
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I'll look into the Starbrite. Thx! ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: ripster92
Date Posted: July-16-2009 at 5:21pm
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Hey LakeBoy. I'd also recomend Starbrite. It seems to wear pretty well. One thing that I have noticed (just a theory though...) If you use too fine of a grit sandpaper to smooth the teak before oiling it, it seems to close up the pores and the oil doesn't penetrate as good. I only go to 250 grit at most before oiling now. Just a thought... I wonder if all of the sanding to get the last stuff off clogged up the pores also.
Steve ------------- 1992 SN Black w/ Yellow |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: July-16-2009 at 5:32pm
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Good thought on the sanding. I didn't go very fine, maybe 120 grit as the finest. Could have even been 80 grit. I sanded it to get rid of the bleached wood. I know sanding is not recommnended for the exact reasons you stated. I have heard of people using bronze wool of bronze brushes. Something to think about. I wonder if there is a way to sand it, then clean the pores somehow. ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: July-16-2009 at 7:15pm
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2 cents
wire brush that sucker before the oil, use a wire brush vigorously while running water on it...let dry apply oil, let sit...ski. Don't stress on how teak looks while dry...it's usually wet anyway. over on wakeworld they have threads lasting forever and even suggest you spray bedliner on your teak 
I only wire brush, never sand it(it's not living room furniture!) I've seen overly sanded platforms become dangerously slippery, your platform should be rough enough to provide some traction for wet bare feet. keep it grippy/functional. of course this is just my opinion. but there will be no tea parties held on my swim platform. Nor will I win the award for prettiest swim platform.  ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: July-16-2009 at 8:46pm
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Agreed, its only an platform. I love the way my SN looks, and the dried out, bleached platform makes me grumpy. I bought some Starbrite and some cleaner, I will wirebrush, clean, then apply the teak sealer and see what happens. I am sure it will look sweet when applied, the test will be how will it look on Monday after a weekend of footin'! ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: July-17-2009 at 3:12am
Just keep it wet  ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: July-18-2009 at 12:47am
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I put on the Natural Finish Starbright Sealer and I was unhappy with the color. It was like a mustard color. It seals it but it looks yellowish. I was kicking myself for putting it on. This was after I used the Star Brite three step system over a process of several weeks. The wood looked great until I put on the Starbright Natural Sealer. However, it has heldup well this summer.
I now have seen that SEMCO makes a clear (SEMCO TEAK SEALER) and I will try it this winter. I am hearing that it is real hard to remove the old sealer once it is put on. I also saw some Sealer Stripper ( SEMCO Teak CLeaner - 2 Part) in the Jamestown Distributors Catelog. I have heard of people having to use Castic Soda to remove the old sealer. I will not sand it off. The Semco Cleaner is what I am going to try. If you sand to deep, it will expose the screws. Go to www.jamestowndistributors.com, 1-800-423-0030. They are are a Wooden Boat Builders Supply Company. I hope this helps, Donald |
Posted By: bill1
Date Posted: July-18-2009 at 1:12am
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clean with amazon teak cleaner with a medium brush and then apply amazon teak oil as kapla describes above. it will last a long time. ------------- bill |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: July-19-2009 at 12:21am
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I ended up going the Starbrite route. A light sand, enough to get rid of the beached look, Starbrite Teak cleaner, and Starbrite Tropical Teak Sealer, light color. 60 bucks all told at West marine.
It looks really sweet as you can see. I will let you know how it holds up this season.  ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: July-19-2009 at 1:15am
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looks like new ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: July-19-2009 at 1:32am
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Starbrite teak oil seems to last longer than any oil I've tried, but it still won't get me through the season. This year I tried Starbrite Tropical Teak Sealer. It has held up better, but still comes off on each side where we set the hydrofoils. I wasn't crazy about the color, its brown and most teak seams to have more red in it. The middle of the platform still looks good after 90 hrs, and people comment about it often, so I guess the color isn't as far off as I think.
I'm going to put a couple of coats of oil on it next year and then the sealer to see if I can get the color a little more to my liking. |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: July-26-2009 at 8:17pm
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sweet....that looks great!!! ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 9:52pm
OK. so I thought I would close the loop on this one. Pictured below is my teak deck after about 3 months of use after being treated with Starbrite. I had it in the water 2-3 days per week, sometimes docked a couple days in a row. I think it wore pretty well. it did better than the teal oil and better than "Teakgard" brand.
 ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 9:56pm
BTW, Starbrite does recommend use of their teak cleaner if you sand the deck so as to clean out the pores of the wood. I used it and it really does de-gunk the wood. I had some blackened teak on some lawm furniture which I cleaned with the Starbrite cleaner, then treated the wood with Starbrite and the results were good. ------------- Got Foot? |
ripster92 wrote:Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 10:00pm
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As much as you use the boat, that's pretty good.
I use the Amazon oil. Get a lot of comments/compliments on how good the platform looks. FWIW. When are you going to make it down to Discovery Bay? I could hook you up for a barefoot run at Diablo Shores as well. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 10:36pm
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I've got a good portion of a 1/2 gallon of Teak Guard if anyone wants to try it. IMO, it sucks. Totally different product than teak oil. It is water based and is a coating rather than a penetrating oil.
I moor my boat for at least July and August. While I can make the platform look like new and beautiful, it only lasts at the most 3 weeks. I have tried all kinds of products, but none last longer than that when exposed 24/7. I have come to appreciate the beautiful weathered grey look. It is also not slippery. I do clean it and oil it when we pull the boat, and come June oil it again, but for the most part it is grey, except for when the ducks oil it for me during the summer. ------------- |
Posted By: WA-H2O-SKI
Date Posted: November-02-2009 at 2:31am
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I use a product called Sea-fin. Once you ge the teack looking great, you can actually just quickly apply a small amount in the areas that are scuffed, if you want to. Works really well.
-Steve ------------- 1985 Ski Supreme 1987 Dixie Super Skier 299 2003 Ski Nautique 196 LE |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: November-02-2009 at 8:06pm
Anytime, BKH. I'll take you up on footin' anytime, any place, really. I skied Diablo Shores last year at Thanksgiving. Nice site! Do you live at Discovery Bay? ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: November-02-2009 at 8:09pm
I had better luck with Teak Guard than you did. My complaint is it would "scratch" where skis/boards came in contact with it. And the bummer was you couldn't touch it up. You would need to strip it then re-apply. I have not used Amazon oil. The standard teak oils did not work for me. Maybe I didn't do it right. ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: November-02-2009 at 9:47pm
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Yes, I live in Discovery Bay, full time. At least when not on business travel.
A good friend is one of 7 who live on Diablo Shores. He's pretty much extended an open invitation. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: November-02-2009 at 10:01pm
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Yes, I know Rich P....and Andy D and Jerry K so we are on the open invitation too...Whenever we ski with Andy usually Rich would come out with little Richie. It's the 60 miles one way that gets in the way...I am going after a CA DFG Game Warden job and my assignment for 2011-2014 will be Livermore so I will be hitting up the south Delta, Orwood, Secret Slough, and Diablo Shores alot more in the future.
Check out the videos from barefootcentral of the Royal Family Kids Camp Water and Air show: http://www.barefootcentral.info/SFTR_USA_2009Brentwood.htm ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: November-02-2009 at 10:13pm
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There is a pretty serious core that barefoot out of Disco Bay. These guys go out 3-4 times a week in good weather. A coupla guys named Mark, Chris, Brian and Jeff. I skied with them about 3 times. Tough to break into their rotation they have, but real good footers.
I would do that drive without really thinking about it. I live in Roseville which is another 20 mi. on top of Andy's drive. Plus if all works out for Andy I will be out a barefoot coach starting January. (I can't get too pissed at Andy, though, BUT I WANT TO!!!! LOL...) I must feed the addiction, I must. ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: November-02-2009 at 10:30pm
you're just going to have to ski with Willie without me running interference...plus all the other footers I've got you in touch with AND you will be makin the 80 mile drive down to the south end of the delta to ski with me...no worries Dude  ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: November-02-2009 at 10:54pm
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Are you moving to DB Andy?
BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: WakeSlayer
Date Posted: November-03-2009 at 2:17pm
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There was a thread here a year or so ago about a mastercraft guy that had perfected some elaborate process for re-doing his teak deck. It was something like a 16-18 hour process all told. Claimed that it required only light maintenance for a long period after that. If I can find it I will post it.
That said, I have not touched mine in years, but may do the Mustang deck in the Spring. ------------- Mike N 1968 Mustang |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-03-2009 at 9:30pm
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We put our wakeboards on while on the platform & scuff it up pretty good.
We just touched it up before heading to Green lake, the rest of the time it looks like we use it for it's intended function. I think the polished one's look great though! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: LaurelLakeSkier
Date Posted: December-28-2009 at 3:29pm
Mike, here is the http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=150097&postcount=28 - MC Teak Refinishing Link |
Posted By: SUNAPEE CROW
Date Posted: December-30-2009 at 12:56am
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It all started when my wife wanted to re deck the front porch. Enter Ipe.
I had one extra piece and you know how it goes. In a Saturday with about $ 45 (total in wood) and $20 in SS screws I was able to build a new swim platform. It came out the "nines". No special tools...table saw, jig saw, belt sander,planer, armstrong(for the finish work). I wish I could post a photo... but I need help!New may be a better answer than refinish!! |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: January-04-2010 at 4:23pm
Thanks for the link to the article. There seems to be a lot of sanding involved, which I am at a loss to see the need for, other than to bring up the lustre. Six coats of Starbrite will get the job done for sure. Incidentally that is the product I used earlier in this thread. Mine finish lasted about 2/3 of a season, but I only used 2 coats. I recoated my platform already, but may try the method indicated in the link with the wet sanding just to see how it works. ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-04-2010 at 4:29pm
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The process is painstaking, but the finish product is worth it. I did mine 2 years ago and only now is it needing the full-up process again. Last winter I only touched it up- no cleaning involved. If my lift hadnt broken for 3 weeks this past summer, who knows how long it would have lasted! It was smooth and looked awesome to boot. ------------- |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: January-04-2010 at 4:31pm
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May be worth a try. Gotta do something to break the winter doldrums! ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: merbesfield
Date Posted: April-06-2010 at 1:43am
| Has anyone used West's brand of teak cleaners and sealers? They are cheap? |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: June-16-2010 at 6:04pm
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I use that Starbright teek oil.. Works pretty good.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: east tx skier
Date Posted: June-17-2010 at 3:03pm
Yeah, that method works pretty well even though it is overkill. I use a modified version of it and only have to touch up my teak in the spring. About every 5 years or so, I'll strip it down and start from scratch. He basically gets it down to bare wood and a medium grit, oils with the SB teak sealer (cheap stuff in the white bottle). He sands between coats and gets it up to about 2000 grit wet sand. He lets it dry completely in the sun in between coats. The last coat, he puts on with his bare hand (this works really well). It looks really nice and is very durable, even if you're like me and put your skis on while on the platform. It is also not slick even though it appears to be that way. My method doesn't use nearly as many coats, but holds up well and looks nice. /edit. Whoops, seems like this has already been covered. Sorry for the redundancy. 
 ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2383&sort=&pagenum=7&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422. |
Posted By: jo-e90
Date Posted: July-23-2012 at 2:26am
I bought the Starbrite 3 step and no where on any of the bottles does it say to let it dry between steps. ------------- 1997 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: TX Foilhead
Date Posted: July-23-2012 at 10:05am
| It need to dry between the cleaning and when you start to but oil on it or the oil won't soak in. Then a day or so after your last coat of oil before it sees the water will help it last a little longer. I have the best luck if I clean it on Saturday morning and do the oil on Sunday, this time of year the sun is your friend and speeds the dry times. If the last coat of oil goes on Monday morning, then it should be ready to go Tuesday evening. I prefer to do it when I have even more time than that, but that works well with my summer holiday detail schedual Memorial Day and Labor Day. |
Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: July-30-2012 at 4:00am
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A bit off-topic but related: anyone know anything about types of wood for the platform? Mine's pretty much shot and a friend is gonna make a copy of the original. He has some 'corteza' which is one of the hardest and most durable types of wood there is. It's incredibly heavy. Will last much longer than teak but doesn't look as good, probably. Any reason not to go with corteza? Any reason to stick with teak? I saw in the store on this site that they're selling platforms made of Jatoba, also harder than teak. No idea if that's available here and what it's called in spanish. Anyway, all input is welcome. Thanks! ------------- http://www.flyzone-cr.com" rel="nofollow - FlyZone Costa Rica Wakeboarding http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8406&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1997 Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-30-2012 at 9:24am
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"Ipe, lapacho, cortez Local Name: Corteza, corteza amarilla Botanical Name: Tabebuia spp" Ipe is a good choice as a replacement for Teak. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: July-30-2012 at 1:45pm
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Awesome Pete, thanks very much for the quick reply! Is there ANYTHING you don't know about ANY CC?! Thanks again and I'll post a pic of the platform in a couple weeks' time when I'm back from vacation. Thanks! ------------- http://www.flyzone-cr.com" rel="nofollow - FlyZone Costa Rica Wakeboarding http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8406&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1997 Super Sport |
Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 2:56am
Old and new Old  New  It was about time... ------------- http://www.flyzone-cr.com" rel="nofollow - FlyZone Costa Rica Wakeboarding http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8406&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1997 Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 9:29am
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: LilRichard
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 10:51am
| Wow, that looks great! |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 1:48pm
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Looks good. Have you water tested it? how does it works wet, is it slippery? ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: 65 'cuda
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 5:00pm
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I'm trying a product designed for hardwood decks, Messmer's UV Plus. It is nearly water thin in the can, as the carrier flashes off, it becomes more viscous. It penetrates well because of this, I'll let you know the results. No matter the products I have tried, many very thin, wiped-on, coats last much longer than one or two heavy coats. I lightly sand between coats with a very fine sanding sponge, tack off the dust, then wipe another coat on. Only takes a couple of minutes per coat. ------------- Gary http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=941" rel="nofollow - 1965 Barracuda SS |
Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 6:03pm
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Thanks y'all! I've put 2 layers of Starbrite Teak sealer on it, not slippery at all. ------------- http://www.flyzone-cr.com" rel="nofollow - FlyZone Costa Rica Wakeboarding http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8406&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1997 Super Sport |
Posted By: LakeBoy
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 7:28pm
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I still use the Starbrite. It can look beat up if people put skis and boards on while on the deck and the fins scrape it. I strip mine and redo it once a year. The color with Starbrite is not as natural as the oil. it looks good, and yes, it is non-slip. Nice job on the rebuilt deck, TRIP! ------------- Got Foot? |
Posted By: newguy1986
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 8:34pm
Starbrite and 80/120/220 sanding ------------- 1986sn 2001 |
Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: July-15-2013 at 5:14pm
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Reviving this old thread to ask which type of screw is best used for the deck? I have to keep my boat in the water most of the time. When I take it out and the platform dries the wood shrinks and some screws have already broken off completely. Stuff is hard to find around here but if I first know what to look for... Thanks! |
Posted By: 85nautiquematt
Date Posted: July-15-2013 at 5:43pm
| Sand with 220 grit until smooth. Then use a meduim wood stain using a small rage to apply. It may appear dark, do not worry. Then use orange oil or beez wax and rub it in with a rag. The teak platform will look great for a year then repeat, although now you probably wont need to sand again.This is my tried and true method I use on my Nautique and my old mans Response. |
Posted By: Nauti87
Date Posted: July-25-2013 at 8:26pm
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I use the 3 step Star Brite, cleaner, bleach, oil. Been done since July '12 still looks good. My pics are too big or I'd post them. Trip, my father in law used a set of stainless screws that have aggressive threads at the tip, then a blank shaft and then threads at the top, with a torx socket. He uses them on his deck for the same reason, and you can get them at Home Depot. ------------- 1987 SN 2001 Barn Find aka "Nauti" (sold sadly) 1988 MC Anniversary Prostar 190 |
Posted By: TRIP
Date Posted: July-27-2013 at 2:29pm
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Thanks for the tip Nauti87! Gonna see if I can find them locally (doubt it) otherwise will look for someone who can get them at Home depot and get them my way. ------------- http://www.flyzone-cr.com" rel="nofollow - FlyZone Costa Rica Wakeboarding http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=8406&sort=&pagenum=1" rel="nofollow - 1997 Super Sport |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: July-27-2013 at 2:56pm
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Nauti87 All of our pictures are too big...we shrink them and post them. Get on board. ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: Nauti87
Date Posted: July-27-2013 at 8:29pm
 I know!------------- 1987 SN 2001 Barn Find aka "Nauti" (sold sadly) 1988 MC Anniversary Prostar 190 |