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UK’s 78 SN

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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2010 at 3:27pm
Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:

what kind of load or force is needed to pull all the threads out?


it's only one that matters, the threaded rod for the eye is the weak link.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2010 at 3:56pm
Thanks guys, its not that heavy top box is only 2.5mm box and the struts are only 1.5mm box, but will get a weight for you all, the basic design should work on most of our boats.

Chris the old rod was just steel as is the one in the picture (5/8 UNC) all I can buy off the shelf in metric land,my thinking is that the ring I have machined to fit the base boss which is a snug fit,and sits on the top of the S/S box and only nipp's the top ring flange around the deck,I would think the brass ring would let go first,may turn up some S/S rod to change out the plated steel. What's the collective mined view do we need high tensile rod on the lifting rings?



Tim here is a teaser for you, and please post leads on a cheap Motec 880.
Lets have a go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2010 at 4:01pm
nice FI..
<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2010 at 4:04pm
Nice airgap- TBI, eh? Will that thing fit under the doghouse? What other goodies you got going on that thing? Youve got a 350, Im assuming?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2010 at 4:17pm
if you machine up another one out of S/S to replace the orginal machine it to 3A specs then, that will help, your going to be adding a bending moment were the orginal was just simple tension.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2010 at 4:19pm
Roger,
Nice job on the "reinforcement"!!! I don't think you have anything to worry about regarding the threaded rod. It's still the same lifting eye which is the weak point. Cast brass's have a tensile around 50,000. Stainless around 70,000 and even low grade every day steel is about 60,000. We sure have seen that CC never went with what I would consider the better alloys.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2010 at 7:48pm
Thanks for all the feedback guys,I know all the skills here would set me straight,what I found is the deck on my year boat is just 3/16 of gel and glass then a cardboard like layer of 3/8 (like you find in flush doors but denser,we call it hollow core here) then a 1/16 layer of glass and only a thin strip of 1/2 ply glass in underneath.

As for the engine its an old 03 roller vortec, which is hooked up to a new 1.23.1 and I think will make the engine sit lower than the old 1.1, engine spec 383 vortec heads with only a light porting,cam comp XM270HR (lift in.495 ex.503 ) ecu top of my list Motec then Edelbrock pro-flow 2, or Fast system,we need full sequential here as the Gov has just added more tax to gas as we are so broke $1.83L on today's ex rate,just need to find what comp I can run on our pump gas.
I'm shooting for 400hp but we see.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2010 at 7:54pm
ever consireder going to LPG? I know is very common there...
but donĀ“t know if your a close to a LPG station though...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2010 at 6:00pm
Hi Guys, got the weight of the sub frame with the base boss,not that bad @ 5.8lb

Seb I think your right,I need to look into dual fuel set up but with these programmable ecu's you can switch set ups so there will be a eco one in my list.

Lets have a go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2010 at 9:51pm
Started on the pylon,its not just the stringers that rot in a wet floor.
Shall have a go at Pete's Idea on a reverse bottom pin on the pylon.


Lets have a go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2010 at 10:43pm
Roger, Wow!! That's the worst case I've seen!! Must be the salt water.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2010 at 12:05pm
I found out the same thing to be true but yours is much worse than mine!


"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2010 at 2:36pm
Pete is right my boat has spent much of its life in salt water, which kept the stringers good but everything around them rotted instead.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2010 at 8:36am
Another piece of my jigsaw off Ebay, just in two minds if the oil cooler is a good thing to have or not should the cooler leak water into the engine oil.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2010 at 11:05pm
Worked on the pylon today by welding/filling and the old Miller worked great only problem I had was a blown 30A fuse on one phase on the wall, it took 5 rods to fill it and found out the hard way Aluminum looks the same when its still hot.





Here is a picture of my bow lifting point glassed in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2010 at 3:09am
Wow Roger you can do everything!!
On your oil cooler is that a pump? I am not following how you will plumb that in.   Your lifting eye brace sure turned out nice.     Monty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2010 at 10:53am
its an adapter that goes in place of the oil filter on the side of the engine,
Roger, they are used often and havnt seen any issues with oil in the water
coming along nicely
always enjoy the Chevy projects
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2010 at 11:00am


old school TPI, it took about 6 months to get it dialed in, but i did add a Jet chip when all done and said and it brought it to life, I had a set of .210 aluminums i put on, flat tops, to keep the comp down, cam and all the other stuff, I still get about 20 mpg on the freeway, but that drops way off when i hit the off ramp
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2010 at 11:07am



found a picture from a while back.....once again, painted the engine with bc/cc and it holds up very well
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2010 at 10:12pm
Thanks Monty,as Eric said it just bolts up where the oil filter is,then through a oil cooler like you have on the tranny,then up through the remote filter,I think it uses a Ford one so I will have some Ford.
We need a update on your boat, I like how you sealed the hull before you foamed.

Eric,like the car and thanks for showing me how a Chevy engine should done.

Here's how I worked on the pylon and how it turn out.

Got the shape back with this.



Then file it up then sanded it.


Monty this is the st up.


Roger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2010 at 9:45am
very cratfy on the jig.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2010 at 5:16pm
Just an update on how I made Pete's idea on a reverse pin for the pylon just added a little Tim idea to it and I think its worked real sweet, the old CCF recipe book is working well.
Put the grease line though a mount hole until I decide were to place it on the floor so you don't stub your toe.
The pin is 13/16 bronze and the socket in the pylon is bronze, where I put the grease line in there is a grove inside the socket to let the grease flow around the pin.
I use the same holes that where holding the old steel pin, now one is the grease line and the other is an extra set screw to hold in the socket body, but made it a press fit (hammer and block) into the pylon, put a grove around the top and put some RTV around just before the final push in.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2010 at 5:24pm
Roger,
Cool! You do however have a tendency to get quite elaborate!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2010 at 5:34pm
are you going to mount a camera to follow the line? is that the purpose for all the extra work to the pylon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2010 at 5:35pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Roger,
Cool! You do however have a tendency to get quite elaborate!


Pete, Its a great idea so thought I try and do it some justice.
I'm in the OCD chapter here, now off to check my door locks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2010 at 5:43pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

are you going to mount a camera to follow the line? is that the purpose for all the extra work to the pylon.


Chris, I hadn't thought about that but I like it, when she finished will run allot in salt water and the old pin was shot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2010 at 6:00pm
Ok so your making a new pin on the pylon for the cup glassed to the hull, hhhhhmmmm guess once it was in it stays not sure there is going to be any benefit changing out the pin at a later date would be easier, but I would think it would last long enough after the repair to not worry about it any more or for a long time at least.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2010 at 6:37pm
Chris, The pin in my pylon was not coming out no matter what,I had to drill out and then only down 2.3/4 in the rest I left in, had a pilot hole down 3.5/8in and still steel, a pin swap is not a case of knocking out the spring pin and change out the old for new in my case,can see your point but the old socket is not in good shape in the hull so if I'm changing it out tried this way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2010 at 11:26am
Roger,
Nice work! Is that a special router for metal? I just thought they were for wood. Learn something new every day... Monty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2010 at 11:33am
Originally posted by 79TiqueRebuild 79TiqueRebuild wrote:

Roger,
Is that a special router for metal? I just thought they were for wood.

A decent vari or multi speed router will go slow enough to get the RPM's down to where the FPM at the cutting edge is proper for aluminum. Then it's just a matter of what bit you put in. I've used milling cutters in my router many times. A good example is using a up or down cut spiral bit when they are not available to the standard line of "woodworking" bits.

It doesn't matter what you use to turn the bit!!!


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