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Winterizing: Did I miss anything ?

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    Posted: October-11-2008 at 2:06am
This is the first time I have ever winterized a boat, if I have missed anything PLEASE let me know. 1988 nautique 2001. I removed two brass plugs from each side of the engine block and drained water. I removed both plugs from the manifolds and drained. I removed a drain plug from the front of the engine off a line {elbow} not sure what you call it. I removed a drain plug from the rear of the engine at the base of a metal cylinder looking thing,not sure what you call it. I drained the strainer. Put them all back and filled a 5 gal bucket with R.V. anti freeze and ran the engine till it came out the exhaust.I then restarted the engine and put marvel mystery oil down the carb till it bogged down a bit then shut down. Pulled the plug and drained all the water out of the hull that I could see. Please again if I am missing something tell me. I cant afford to mess this up. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2008 at 5:54am
Assuming you dont have a heater or shower, then you did OK for your first time. The only thing you might have missed was the fuel stabilizer- its usually a good idea to add it to the gas and run it for a few hours so it makes its way through the carb. Also, in the future, I dont suggest you use the drain plug on the tranny cooler- they break off pretty easily. Just pull the lower hose next time and you'll be fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lonestar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2008 at 9:55am
TRBenj: Thanks to you. I followed your pictures on your winterizing thread and it made it very easy to do. I myself realy found your info very helpfull. I did start to add Sta-bil to the fuel the last few time we went out skiing and the some more on the way to take it out. Im hoping that will work. I notice a few people say they remove the "impeller" ? I would if I had any idea where it is located. What do you think and could you point me to where I can find this thing ? thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2008 at 11:46am
Lonestar - The RWP is the belt driven pump at the driver's side of engine. Make sure & mark it for 'this side up' before you remove it, as it can go on backwards!

See the PCM manual in the reference section, page #26 (too big to paste here). It has an exploded view.

Another tip is to use some soapy water on the impeller when you reassemble in the spring so you don't have a dry startup.

Good luck!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lonestar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2008 at 3:03pm
Found it. thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2008 at 4:57pm
Don't forget to disconnect your battery. If your boat has a clock or any little phantom electrical drain your battery will be dead in the spring. I take my battery out for the winter as it gets very cold where I'm at and they don't always survive the sub zero temps in the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77Brian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2008 at 12:57am
Do most of the techniques apply only when dealing with subzero temps? I live in CA where it never goes below 40-50deg

if not, please gimme some opinions on what i should do to my 77 SN 351W
thanks for any help in advance..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 88 Nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2008 at 3:10am
Originally posted by 77Brian 77Brian wrote:

Do most of the techniques apply only when dealing with subzero temps? I live in CA where it never goes below 40-50deg

if not, please gimme some opinions on what i should do to my 77 SN 351W
thanks for any help in advance..


Good to see another Ca. CCFan.
There are differing opinions about that.
First of all, fill your fuel tank and add Stabul. By filling the tank, there is no air space so water won't get in your tank from condensation.
As far as the block, some say just drain it, some say drain & add antifreeze to prevent rust, some say leave the water in there and run it a few times. I say it's cheap insurance to drain and add antifreeze. Remember the big freeze California had around 91? If we had one of those and your boat was in storage and you didn't get to it in time... cracked block. Plus the manual says to remove the impeller so the rubber "relaxes" to it's natural state. Of course I'm up in the foothills so it does freeze up here. When I summerize, I drain the antifreeze into jugs and reuse it the next season.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2008 at 7:33am
Brian,
I'm one of the people who doesn't remove the batteries to put them in a warmer spot over the winter. I've never had a problem and my boats are stored in northern Wisconsin. I make sure they are disconnected, have a good charge and they are fine come spring. I always ask people who do bring their battery in if they do it on their car/truck too! Marina's leave their customers batteries in the boat.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2008 at 9:52am
I dont remove the batteries either, make sure they have a good charge as Pete said. I watched a couple guy's yesterday trying to winterize thier sterndrive, they shouldve paid somebody,they had the drive raised all the way up revving the engine to try to get the thermostat open, they filled a 5 gallon bucket with green and had a sump pump in the bucket....pretty hilarious, I left at that point
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2008 at 1:00am
Sorry for this, but I need to ask a dumb question. Yes, I have read the manual and have read the winterizing comments on this site, but I still have a nagging question. RE: antifreeze-I have the Pro Boss in my '95 SN, and went to winterize on my own for the first time. Figured it would be easy as I summerize it. I was stummped however when they mentioned antifreeze. Is this just put in for winter storage in case all the water is not drained out? Also, mentioned taking the impeller out. Does everybody do that as well? My mechanics never did that. Also, I disconnected the water heater hose and the heater hoses. Is that all I need to do or do you blow them out as well? One last thing, is is ok to not change the oil until spring -I'm running out of time? Thanks in advance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skinaut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2008 at 12:44pm
mtguy,
yes on the antifreeze if there is any chance of freezing temps. after draining the engine and pulling the impeller put all the plugs back in, and I remove the top hose from the RWP turn it up to stick a long funnel (transmission funnel) in it and pour a gallon of anti freeze into it. A whole gallon of straight anti freeze maybe over kill but what the heck, any water left in the block will be treated.
you really should do the oil before put up. the used oil has chemicals built up from the combustion process that can be corrosive. Not that its going to ruin your engine in one season but it's a good practice to prolong engine life in the long run. I do remove the impeller it keeps it from 'setting' in the compressed shape. Also I take the tension off the alt belt.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2008 at 10:35pm
Thanks. I'll do that. Just to confirm, after you put the plugs back in and put the anti-freeze in, I'm assuming I run motor to get antifreeze through the system?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2008 at 7:27am
Originally posted by mtguy mtguy wrote:

Thanks. I'll do that. Just to confirm, after you put the plugs back in and put the anti-freeze in, I'm assuming I run motor to get antifreeze through the system?


The antifreeze will make it to all the low points. Running isn't needed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skinaut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2008 at 1:30pm


The antifreeze will make it to all the low points. Running isn't needed.[/QUOTE]



what he said
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2008 at 2:44pm
Thanks again. One more question (I wish I would think of them all at once) -Is the best way to drain the engine oil (pro boss GT40) via pumping through dip stick slot or is there an easier way. I looked in the Pro Boss manual and simply can't find it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2008 at 3:02pm
On the very bottom of your motor is the oil pan. It will have a drain plug in it. On your vintage of boat it should also have a hose connected to it so you can feed the hose out the main drain plug in your hull. Take the nut/plug in the end of the hose out after pushing the hose through the bottom of your boat and the oil will slowly drain. It will take 10-15 minutes for all the oil to drain. When your done make sure you put the plug back in and refill the motor with oil before you start it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2008 at 3:09pm
Do like '79Tique says- you should have a quick drain hose on your GT40. Assuming the engine is up to temp and you remove the oil fill cap when draining, it shouldnt take 10-15 for the pan to empty, though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2008 at 3:18pm
If you use the drain hose method, don't forget to take the boat out of the water first!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-15-2008 at 3:34pm
Thanks guys. Yes, Pete I already have her out of the water! I'm dumb on these matters but not quite that dumb! I think I have her under control now. The Gray Marine manual for my Essaness Craft had much more detailed instructions for us newbies at winterizing. When in doubt, I disconnected the hose and drained. There's a few more drain plugs on that engine as well. They also had me take the valve covers off (2 wing nuts) and put 10 weight oil on the valves. Now why don't we have to do that on the Nautiques? Better seals?
Thanks again. You guys are great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2008 at 12:23am
Originally posted by mtguy mtguy wrote:

Thanks again. You guys are great.


Especially guys like Tim and Pete that share so much knowledge

Checked your profile mtguy...sucks to be you lately I bet! 700 down again today!

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2008 at 2:24am
yeah, have to put the boats away, and the market sucks!! Luckily, winter is near and back country skiing is right around the corner.
I was pretty conservative going in so not hurt too bad...yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2008 at 2:49am
me too (conservative) and my guy called Sunday afternoon (!) just to make sure I was doin' ok. Said he was just checking in with all his clients.
Good luck on the sno-skiing. No need to put the boats away here.

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shawnmc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2008 at 2:50am
I agree with J.Bear. Great guys with great info. Winterized my boat this year and didn't have to post any questions......amazing!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2008 at 3:08am
Regarding the heater question, disconnect both hoses to the heater and with your lungs, blow the water out.

Cannot remember, should the speedo pickup's be cleared as well? Need to do that on my boat to protect the ECM or whatever you call the circuit board in the trunk.

Also crank the steering wheel back and forth several times periodically to keep the steering cable lubed.

Change oil/filter, trans fluid. Replace fuel filter every other season.

Pete, I do remove my battery, keep it in the house and give it a little charge every month and still only got three seasons out of the original Interstate battery?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2008 at 3:09am
Bet it is nice in your neck of the woods Shawn..pretty time of year up there. We missed our annual fall trip to Norris this year. Nothing like skiing those clean lakes there with all the fall colors.

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shawnmc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2008 at 10:47am
john,
it is beautiful right now. Dry...but beautiful. The high is 66 on saturday.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmiracle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2008 at 12:07pm
Perhaps this is posted somewhere so I apologize in advance if it is.........

I'm going to winterize myself this weekend for the first time and want to make sure I arrive at the lake prepared. I've read through many of the posts on this topic and have my owners manul however I was hoping for expert advice for the following:

1992SN - Ford Protec GT40

Oil - Quanitity, weight, brand?
Oil Filter - brand?
Transmission Fluid - Brand?
Spark Plugs - Brand? Do they come gapped?
Oil in spark plug holes - What to use?
Fogging spray for carbuerator - What is this?
Tools - what tool is best to remove the drain plugs from the block?

Thanks guys.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shawnmc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-16-2008 at 9:30pm
dmiracle,
i had a great post with links to most of your questions, but my computer locked up when i tried to post it.

Here goes again.

oil type....confused

transmission oil

spark plugs for protec

I have always been able to gently turn my block plugs with a pair of needle nose pliars. I have a 86'
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 77Brian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-17-2008 at 3:45pm
Kurt/Pete

Thanks for the good info. very much appreciated.
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