Had to get towed

I threw away my original coil - now I wish I had it back to try!

Oh well - these two others seem to be almost twinkies - just with different colors and markings. Both read 3 ohms across. Not sure of the original brand, as they must of been re-boxed by skidim.

Heading to the lake later today and will try the rewire and test that. I'll test the voltage as you mentioned, but that is not generally how to test it.

The type of voltage meter (digital vs. analogue) might yield different reading on the - side as I believe that is a pulsing voltage from the breakerless ignition module to trigger the coil. My meter is a pure digital, what style is yours?

gun-driver wrote: TRBenj, The only way I was able to get 12V to the EI and 9V out of the coil on the negative side was to (if you look at the big diagram) was to take the purple wire of the EI out of the distributor past the coil to the 12V in side of the ballast resistor.

I understand how you wired it- I just cant figure out why. I have never heard of any EI set up requiring different voltages at the module and coil. It should be all or nothing going through the resistor. Like I said, you got very creative with your wiring and Im not sure why (or if) your boat is running properly. I would not suggest anyone else implement this same fix unless it is specifically recommended by the EI manufacturer. I do not believe Prestolite (PCM), Pertronix, or Mallory use this technique.

I have always been lured to the Electronic Ignition change over kit. Why? "Just because" I guess.

But, 7 summers of 100% reliability (1973 CC Mustang) is making me stay with my points. I was thinking of getting the EI conversion this winter.   No way, if SKIDIM can't nail this down for all late model configurations. Any hassle isn't worth it. I will just order a point tuneup package from SKIDIM.

The boat has a awesome reputation of reliability with friends, family, and lake neighbors. All the new boats at the lake were having problems this summer...but not me!

My extended family just can't understand how a boat this old performs so well...

randall wrote: But, 7 summers of 100% reliability (1973 CC Mustang) is making me stay with my points.

I'm with you Randall - I'm sticking with points. I like to tinker with our boat anyway so the tuneup time is not work to me.

ltmoeller wrote:      I recently purchased a prestolite ing from skidim with the coil that they suggested and bypassed the ballest resister and the boat(1989)351 runs like crap.So what is in simple terms the correct way to wire this set up.I had a pertronix in the boat for 7 years and used the ballast resister and never had a problem but a part broke in that system and I was talked in to purchasing the other unit skidin sells for 149.00 plus the coil.The tech line at pertronix said to use the ballast resister and continue using to points coil and like I said it was trouble free for 7 years.Now this other unit they sold me is just not working. Tom

maybe you should have checked and changed the timing after you installed the new unit so the engine runs right and you can adjust the carb?

If the boat is running good, what do I need as far as preventive maintenance and tuneup? It had new points when I bought it (June 2001) and nothing has been touched since.

I have changed the oil, filter, and fuel filter regularly. Never changed water impeller (seems to move water strong, it keeps perfect 138 temp)

The only thing I have noticed is it has to turn over 2-4 seconds sometimes when restarted when it has been ran and totally HOT. I want it to start with one touch of the key when it is hot.

It idles and runs great at all speeds.

Maybe it doesn't need anything....

Do many people pay up for the full EL distributor change ($350-$400)???

randall wrote: Do many people pay up for the full EL distributor change ($350-$400)???

I see Chris answered your other questions but missed this one. It's my opinion that the complete change to a electronic distributor is great with other engine mods such as heads, cam and manifolds. Lots here have done it and there are plenty of threads on it. Also want to warn you that there are some very strong opinions on the brand you buy - Correct Chris??

TRBenj wrote: Chris, I assume youre referring to the curb idle adjustment? I generally try to avoid touching it, but have done so if I cant get the idle right where I want it with the mixture screws. Ive never used a vaccuum gauge- Im curious, whats the best procedure when using one?

Timmy timmy timmy, you use the idle mixture screw to control the idle bad bad you need a lesson young one.

but what you want to do is get the dwell set, set the timing with the idle at 600-750, if it won't idle this low then your idle mixture screws are way off and/or timing and you will have to adjust it in stages until the idle is correct.

But once you have the dist set correctly you can move on to the carb, unhook the PCV hose at the spacer plate and attach the rubber hose from the vacuum gauge, now you need to keep track of where the screws are oriented prior to turning so you know how much you have turned it, but you need to adjust both sides equall amounts or close to it, but with the gauge hooked up adjust the screws until you get the highest vacuum reading on the gauge leaving the screws a little on the rich side 1/16-1/8 of a turn CCW, once you have that then you can fine tune the base idle to 650 in gear and go your merry way.

also you may need to adjust the choke a little as well or replace the choke stat depending on it's condition.

TRBenj wrote: I should pick up a vaccuum gauge, but Im curious- will max vaccuum occur at the max idle RPM you can achieve by adjusting the mixture screws?

little confused what exactly you are asking but you will get the maximum vacuum reading at base idle, once you start to move the throttle vacuum will decrease untill there is no load, which never happens on a boat but backing off the throttle is about as close as you get and the vacuum will start to increase again.

Basicly leave the gauge hooked up and run it and watch the guage fluctuate, as you increase the throttle it drops and then as soon as you start to back off it will increase and back and forth depending on throttle position. On a car once you get it rolling it takes much less power to keep it going but you will still never see more vacuum than you do at idle. Might be cruising 55 and only be a lbs or two less vacuum than it was at idle, basicly this is how the instant MPG works and one of the things the ECU looks at to determind what it is.

TRBenj wrote: 79nautique wrote: TRBenj wrote: I should pick up a vaccuum gauge, but Im curious- will max vaccuum occur at the max idle RPM you can achieve by adjusting the mixture screws? little confused what exactly you are asking I dont have a vaccuum gauge yet- so Im asking what the best way to set the idle is without one. In the past, Ive set the idle mixture screws to achieve maximum RPM at idle, then adjusted the curb (either up or down) so that it idles at ~650 in gear. Just curious if that was the correct method.

sounds like that would get you on the lean side doing it that way and your going to have such a wide range on the screws where the RPM would not change. It's hard to explain what to do as it's more of a listen/feel thing aquired over years of experience to get it right, much easier to explain for an edlebrock or Q-jet carb vs a holley. But on those you crank them in slowly until the RPM drops then back it off a 1/4 turn. But once you have the carb set correctly you will be able to kill four Cyl 1-4 then 5-8 and it will still run and not die then you know you have it right.

dwell is the point gap basicly or the angle that it is opened, Billy straighten me out please,

but you need to set it first using a feeller gauge get's you close and you get lucky sometimes too, but it needs set first then the timing as the dwell will change the timing setting.

also You don't have to replace the cap more often just check it year and replace as needed, you can go several season's without changing it depending on the conditions it used and stored and the quality of parts used.

also have you replace the sending unit or the temp gauge at some time? because if you haven't then something is stuck or wrong as the temp needs to be higher, you will get better performance and fuel ecconomy and you plugs won't foul either. So I'm guessing the gauge or sending unit has been swapped with an automotive unit with a diferent resistance value or the t-stat is open all of the time.

TRBenj wrote: As far as plugs go, that depends on which heads you have. I think the 302 changed somewhere in the 71-72 range from the larger 45mm plugs to the smaller 18mm plugs. Check to see which you have to confirm. If theyre the larger ones, use Autolite 45's, if theyre the smaller ones, use Autolite 24's. You can get those locally from any Autoparts store or Walmart.

Tim, I do not remember going to the autoparts store in the 70s and asking for "mm" plugs.
What happened to SAE ??

TRBenj wrote: I can tell you that my '71 takes the larger plugs (13/16" wrench) and the '78 takes the smaller (5/8") ones.

Now those numbers I can understand...