Tech question?

Iam having the top end done.
Is it necessary to change to a hardeded exhaust valve and seat?
This is a 1961 Ford Intercepter 170CID that use to run on leaded gas.
Now of coarse it will be using unleaded gas.
Is the machine shop trying to sell me a conversion I dont need? Any thoughts are welcome. I understand at one time white gas was used with no additives and it was fine.

Pete, the hardened parts& install are a $225.00 upgrade. I can buy alot of lead additive for that price. Is this a good alternative?

Justrite, I'm curious about the whole cost of the valve job. Are you rebuilding the block yourself? How have you dated the engine?    I read that in '65 they went from a 4 main bearing to a 7 main bearing which was much better. I'm guessing mine is an early '60s.

Riley, Parts including the upgrade 157.00, labor and maching 362.00. Total 530.00.

Yes Iam doing the block, its a 4 bearing main.

And eric were the valves hardened as well?

Pete, Eric, that cost is just to do the exhaust valves, machine shop said their is no need to do the intakes? because not as much heat?

Is this common?

Is there that much more machining or labor for a hardened valve seat. $225.00 wow and that's just the exhaust?

Yes, there is substantial machining involved. Plus the cost of the seats, press in, and grind the seats.

My experience says, no...you do not need them. This is based on a pair I've run for about a decade now. The seats are in great condition. As cool as these engines run I doubt you will ever wear out the seats.

Now...if the seats have worn and recessed into the head, they will have to be replaced anyway so you might as well have them installed. When looking at the combustion chamber the exhaust valve should sit high in the chamber.

I've found that machining costs vary widely based on geographical areas so that doesn't sound too out of line to me. However, if you're concerned, check around. Also, you will pay more for better equipment. If the shop has a "Serdi" expect to pay top dollar for a top quality job!

I would forgo the hardened seats and get all bronze guide liners, three angle seats, and PC seals. If you have a shop recommend knurling the guides...find a new shop!

Good luck!
Matt

justrite wrote: knurling the guides? Not mentioned, Whats that?

Some consider knurling a band-aid fix for repairing worn valve guides in the head.

Its a series of spiral cut "grooves", kinda like plowing a garden, where the displaced metal, from the cut actually raises on both sides of the cut, thus making the inside diameter of the guide smaller. The guide can then be "re-sized" to original specs. Problem is,theres not as much metal , because of the grooves , so it will tend to wear again quicker.

Eric about the robbins,was it in an ezgo?I have some thoughts on it if so.Give me a shout or e mail

Munday

62 wood wrote: justrite wrote: knurling the guides? Not mentioned, Whats that? Some consider knurling a band-aid fix for repairing worn valve guides in the head. Its a series of spiral cut "grooves", kinda like plowing a garden, where the displaced metal, from the cut actually raises on both sides of the cut, thus making the inside diameter of the guide smaller. The guide can then be "re-sized" to original specs. Problem is,theres not as much metal , because of the grooves , so it will tend to wear again quicker.

Also the knurled areas allow a path for oil to pass through the guide.

Matt