Stringer Templates

Is that carpet on the sides? You'll want to get rid of that lip now that you have the floor structure in place. You'll also want to clean up the glass under the carpet so you can roll some glass up the edges. Otherwise, looks great!


Some might I went across the street with this, but it won't have to be done again!





Those are standard bulkhead fittings I 5200'ed in place. I also precut the holes to get the CPES and glass on. PVC likes exoxy if it's scuffed up where you want to glue it.

The vent tubing is called 'reinforced flexible tubing'...very original! It's about halfway between wet exhaust and dryer hose.

Yes the carpet is still on the sides. I plan on pulling off the carpet, cutting off the edge, grind and clean about 3-4 " up the sides. I read that I should extend each lift of glass up the side 1 -2 " on each lift.

Does this sound right ??

Are you saying just grind or sand down the 2" to 0" and just lay the new glass over the 2" lip up the side ?

I was going to use the flexible hose, however opted to use all PVC for the vents and cable run. Menards probably hates me. I purchased about $60.00 of varouse 3" fittings... configured what I needed to run around the battery box and connect to the hard pipe extending below the front area. I used rubber couplings to connect the PVC to the existing pipes. Returned $35.00 for credit and now glad I went PVC.

Not much room to run (2) 3" Pipes, (1) 4" pipe around the battery box !!!!

82 Nautique 1 wrote: Are you saying just grind or sand down the 2" to 0" and just lay the new glass over the 2" lip up the side ? Not much room to run (2) 3" Pipes, (1) 4" pipe around the battery box !!!!

Yes, I do believe you understand me correctly.

Are your vent pipes 3" PVC? 3" Schedule 40 PVC is actually 3.5" OD, so 2.5" (2.875" OD) is actually closer to the 3" you'd want to match the dryer hose used on the intake vents (assuming its the same as my boats). Probably too late now and no big deal either way- just FYI! I think I went 4" on the conduit tube in my Tique and that worked out beautifully... much larger than the tiny one from the factory.

Greg,
Have you taken a look at where the PVC runs through the bulkhead to the engine compartment lately? One of my concerns has always been how well the epoxy will bond to the PVC and the reason I've always liked how Roger did his with the fiberglass tubing.

8122pbrainard wrote: Greg, Have you taken a look at where the PVC runs through the bulkhead to the engine compartment lately? One of my concerns has always been how well the epoxy will bond to the PVC and the reason I've always liked how Roger did his with the fiberglass tubing.

Pete, I like Roger's FG tubes as well- but thats a lot of trouble to go through! Other than the seal at both ends, PVC is pretty ideal, I think. If using PVC, would you prefer 5200 over epoxy at the bulkhead?

I have a question on the whole ventilation thing, my deck scoop has the horn mounted inside of it. How functional is that, and the deck scoop only works at speed anyway. A lot of work go's into all the PVC venting from a Deck Scoop that is not a big performer anyway.

8122pbrainard wrote: Tim, That's a tough question!! I actually stick to just about anything so I'd go with it inside the hole and on both sides. Then, go over the ass like Greg and others have done. I went to the extreme fabbing up his ass tubing but ass tubes are available. However, I'd say that would cost more.

There must be a better way to vent, this is a lot of work are there any other options?

Tim,
Yes, the epoxy may not stick to the 5200 and the reason I mentioned keeping the bead small. The 5200 is more of a "back-up" seal. I agree that the tubes are a pain to glass around - any curved surface isn't easy! Stick with the 5200 and it's cool.

I would be supprized if that litte deck scoop with a dbl. horn mounted in it could capture as much air as it would take to fill all the PVC pipe being routed for venting. Not only that, but every bend and elbow is restrictive to flow. It doesn't seem to me that is effective enough to warrent all the work and cost. I would put in a couple of 3" electric blowers or fans pull the air from below deck and be done with all of it.

I am thinking of terminating the pipe at floor hieght below deck in front of the dash but not ducting up to the scoop. It gets in the way of some usable space options, somehow I would like to clean it up a bit. All that pipe is just weird.

If you go to all the work to do the piping under the floor area, why not finish it like factory and eliminate any what if's.

I would not want to compromise the airflow into the engin area and create a safety issue.

I personally know a family from Iowa that had a boat explode in Florida last year. It was determined the cause being gas vapors in the engine compartment. Why risk safety for a little storage.

Safety first. Vent it properly.

TRBenj wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: TRBenj wrote:    If using PVC, would you prefer 5200 over epoxy at the bulkhead? Tim, That's a tough question!! I'd actually go with both. The 5200 will stick to just about anything so I'd go with it inside the bulkhead hole and a small bead on both sides. Then, go over it with the glass/epoxy like Greg and others have done. Pete, I was scolded on my '90 when I 5200'd the bulkhead and glassed over it... I was told that 5200 would stick to glass, but not the other way around. True or false? 5200 seems the simplest and most straightforward to me... the vent tubes are a pain to glass around from all sides- especially when theyre close together on the bulkhead.

So if you go foam-free, and if you leave drain gaps at the bottom of the bulkheads and stringers, does it really matter whether the PVC/bulkhead joints are watertight?