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1964 ski Nautique project

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DrCC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-18-2016 at 1:51pm
Unless the dirt is grease and oil.

I'm still a firm believer in poly resin for a boat that was built entirely with poly resin.

Don't see the point in messing with conversion layers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eether Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-18-2016 at 11:43pm
Tim, here are the measurements on the trailer. I pulled two foot on center back from the hitch lock and the width is to the outside of the channels. Hopefully that makes sense because the drawing isn’t exactly accurate.



This shows the difference between the bare fiberglass, gelcoat and the old antifouling(?) that a po applied. It was taken right after wiping it down with acetone, but I couldn’t really notice a difference in the glass. Should there be an obvious difference if it they are cracks? Fwiw the hull has absolutely no cracks farther than a foot from the chine, and 99% of them are within six inches. The top is a different story, with tons of small cracks just like the bottom..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eether Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2016 at 12:01am
This shows one of the places where gelcoat “puddled”. Since it is cracked like this everywhere else I assumed it should be taken down to bare glass as well.
As far as the repairs go, if using vinylester as a conversion coat for the gel is an acceptable process I would much rather use epoxy. I have a good bit left over from the stringers and it would be nice to keep from getting involved with another system for repairs. However, I will NOT do this again so if dealing with poly in going to make the finish last longer/better than I’ll do it.

Thanks for all the thoughts!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ScottZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2016 at 2:48am
Originally posted by 70CC 70CC wrote:

Ethan, Looks like you're making great progress!

I would say the bulkhead mounted pylon is correct. Steve can correct me, but I don't think his Dad's boat has a bulkhead which is why the mount is glassed to the bottom of the floor. I'm going to guess your boat was made at a later time when CC added the bulkhead. Does anyone know if Art's boat has a bulkhead?

As far as I can tell, the front floor section and seats are really unique in the Kutsch boat. Most that I have seen have a bench seat and under the seat is a large cut-out to access the battery.

I'm attaching pics from Skeeter's 64 below so you can see the seat base construction and battery access that I believe is correct and more typical.





Since you don't have the original hand throttle, I'm assuming your boat was set up like mine, I'd suggest going with the foot throttle as it should be a lot easier to find one and I think it will be more functional. I am not looking forward to low speed maneuvering (like docking) with a shift on the dash and throttle only on the side both operated by the same hand. Seems like a clumsy set-up,

-Phil


The boat pictured here belongs to me.   If you need any more pictures of it let me know.   Morfoot got these 2 from me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2016 at 7:06am
It may be worth looking into this Epoxy Gelcoat SG 715if you are doing all the hull again, I have been mulling this over as another way to go, by just tip and roller on then sanding back and polish, would cost more but may be easy to use once you have prepped/repaired the hull.
If we have it here in Europe it will be in the USA too, get a small amount and do a test area first..

Good luck with it.
Lets have a go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2016 at 7:36am
Roger,
I wonder how well it buffs out to a high gloss? I may be wrong but I've always thought you can't get the gloss out of epoxy. We'll put another project on your list of things to do!   


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2016 at 7:48am
Now I see all the hairline cracks.
Ethan,
Test a couple spots with the epoxy. Try it first undiluted to see how well it penetrates. If you can still see where the epoxy hasn't soaked in, thin it down and do a second spot. As mentioned by Joe, you can always go over the hull with some 6oz. cloth.


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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2016 at 10:33am
Originally posted by ScottZ ScottZ wrote:

   Does anyone know if Art's boat has a bulkhead?

Yes it does and I have pictures but it seems with the site acting up I cannot upload them. I'll try again later---

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2016 at 10:53am
Again - on the cracks - there is no benefit that is going to be achieved by trying to join them together with some sort of penetrating epoxy. It will only penetrate the crack, then it will stick to the sides of the crack - which is an old brittle poly that not only cracked to begin with but also has now been exposed to years of additional weather to age them. I don't care about oil or dirt or what have you I know epoxy sticks to much but if you stick it to a surface that isn't any good what good will it do you?    If one wanted to fill the cracks they would first have to rout them all out and then fill them - that is not reasonable.    You are looking to leave it in place, you are looking to give the surface you are going to gel on something with some tensile strength along the surface because the gel is not reinforced and doesn't have much of its own. So you need to add a layer, it can be done with light cloth - which wets out easier and usually provides less additional weight but will leave a cloth pattern that adds to your fairing woahs. It can also be done with the product I mentioned earlier surfacing veil mat - which is intended for this application as it leaves a flatter surface than the cloth.   You should not use any kind of matt in an application like this with epoxy as it doesn't dissolve the binders and makes it hard to get the mat to follow the contours of the hull. That's only one of the reasons you should use the vinylester. The other is that you would need to put a vinyl layer between anyway and you then would have to ensure that no where in the process had you faired down to the epoxy layer... its a total pia and will provide no benefit but additional risks and cost.
Edit-
You could use polyester resin as well however - not quite as strong a bond - and not as good a barrier layer for something that may end up underwater and it stretches more and is not as resistant to stress cracking . The only benefit to the poly in this case would be cost... to the point that many boats are made with poly with the exception of the outer layer which is made with vinylester - for the reasons discussed above.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ScottZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2016 at 11:30am
Originally posted by Eether Eether wrote:

Or if there is a first gen closer than the 8 hours to Orlando I'd gladly bring a copious amount of the owners favorite brews for the opurtunity to look it over!



I am located in Central Alabama and you are welcome to look at mine.
Scott Zuelzke
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1984 Ski Nautique       
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2016 at 8:50pm








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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2016 at 9:04pm
Originally posted by ScottZ ScottZ wrote:

Originally posted by Eether Eether wrote:

Or if there is a first gen closer than the 8 hours to Orlando I'd gladly bring a copious amount of the owners favorite brews for the opurtunity to look it over!



I am located in Central Alabama and you are welcome to look at mine.


What lake?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ScottZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-19-2016 at 11:59pm
Lake Mitchell, just east of Clanton.   I am about 45 minutes south of Birmingham.
Scott Zuelzke
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eether Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-20-2016 at 11:04am
Thanks for the explanation Joe, I think I'll go the vinylester route. Epoxy while easier to deal with seems like it will create too many compromises and complications.

To condense a couple different posts in one place, is this the right process.
Remove all old gelcoat rubrail to rubrail.
Use vinylester resin to lay veiling mat directly to the bare hull.
Use vinylester resin with us composites sm fairing compound to fair the hull in preparation for gelcoat.

Is the 1581 surfacing veil mat that fiberglast sells the right stuff for this application? It's 1.2oz/sg yard
Also, is overlapping the the veiling mat over centerline of the hull bottom several inches each side the correct procedure?

Will two gallons of resin be enough for all of this?

Thanks for the suggestions and the pictures guys!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eether Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2016 at 10:12pm
Well, just a couple more hours sanding and the hull should be ready for gel.. I'd take some pictures, but I don't think I can hold a camera up...

While waiting for fairing compound to set up, I've been working on some of the mechanical issues. In switching from the dearbo to the longer velvet drive, I shortened the prop shaft the difference. However, from the wear marks from the cutlass bearing it looks like the shaft has always had 2" overhang past the strut. The the total length is 53" now, but should I shorten it another inch? The prop is a federal 12x14 but I'll probably get a Acme later this summer if that makes any difference with hull clearance.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2016 at 10:16pm
Shorten another 1.5" (aim for 1/2" clearance). 12" federal will actually encroach a little more than the 12.5" diam acme replacement.

Pics when you regain your strength!
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