1964 ski Nautique project |
Post Reply | Page <1 234 |
Author | ||
DrCC
Grand Poobah Joined: April-12-2004 Location: at home Status: Offline Points: 2867 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Unless the dirt is grease and oil.
I'm still a firm believer in poly resin for a boat that was built entirely with poly resin. Don't see the point in messing with conversion layers. |
||
Eether
Groupie Joined: October-20-2015 Location: Greenville Status: Offline Points: 64 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Tim, here are the measurements on the trailer. I pulled two foot on center back from the hitch lock and the width is to the outside of the channels. Hopefully that makes sense because the drawing isn’t exactly accurate.
This shows the difference between the bare fiberglass, gelcoat and the old antifouling(?) that a po applied. It was taken right after wiping it down with acetone, but I couldn’t really notice a difference in the glass. Should there be an obvious difference if it they are cracks? Fwiw the hull has absolutely no cracks farther than a foot from the chine, and 99% of them are within six inches. The top is a different story, with tons of small cracks just like the bottom.. |
||
Eether
Groupie Joined: October-20-2015 Location: Greenville Status: Offline Points: 64 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
This shows one of the places where gelcoat “puddled”. Since it is cracked like this everywhere else I assumed it should be taken down to bare glass as well.
As far as the repairs go, if using vinylester as a conversion coat for the gel is an acceptable process I would much rather use epoxy. I have a good bit left over from the stringers and it would be nice to keep from getting involved with another system for repairs. However, I will NOT do this again so if dealing with poly in going to make the finish last longer/better than I’ll do it. Thanks for all the thoughts! |
||
ScottZ
Platinum Member Joined: January-20-2004 Location: Clanton, AL Status: Offline Points: 1154 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
The boat pictured here belongs to me. If you need any more pictures of it let me know. Morfoot got these 2 from me. |
||
Scott Zuelzke
Lake Mitchell , AL 1984 Ski Nautique 1972 Skier |
||
uk1979
Platinum Member Joined: June-13-2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1422 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
It may be worth looking into this Epoxy Gelcoat SG 715if you are doing all the hull again, I have been mulling this over as another way to go, by just tip and roller on then sanding back and polish, would cost more but may be easy to use once you have prepped/repaired the hull.
If we have it here in Europe it will be in the USA too, get a small amount and do a test area first.. Good luck with it. |
||
Lets have a go
56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Roger,
I wonder how well it buffs out to a high gloss? I may be wrong but I've always thought you can't get the gloss out of epoxy. We'll put another project on your list of things to do! |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Now I see all the hairline cracks.
Ethan, Test a couple spots with the epoxy. Try it first undiluted to see how well it penetrates. If you can still see where the epoxy hasn't soaked in, thin it down and do a second spot. As mentioned by Joe, you can always go over the hull with some 6oz. cloth. |
||
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Yes it does and I have pictures but it seems with the site acting up I cannot upload them. I'll try again later--- |
||
JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5698 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Again - on the cracks - there is no benefit that is going to be achieved by trying to join them together with some sort of penetrating epoxy. It will only penetrate the crack, then it will stick to the sides of the crack - which is an old brittle poly that not only cracked to begin with but also has now been exposed to years of additional weather to age them. I don't care about oil or dirt or what have you I know epoxy sticks to much but if you stick it to a surface that isn't any good what good will it do you? If one wanted to fill the cracks they would first have to rout them all out and then fill them - that is not reasonable. You are looking to leave it in place, you are looking to give the surface you are going to gel on something with some tensile strength along the surface because the gel is not reinforced and doesn't have much of its own. So you need to add a layer, it can be done with light cloth - which wets out easier and usually provides less additional weight but will leave a cloth pattern that adds to your fairing woahs. It can also be done with the product I mentioned earlier surfacing veil mat - which is intended for this application as it leaves a flatter surface than the cloth. You should not use any kind of matt in an application like this with epoxy as it doesn't dissolve the binders and makes it hard to get the mat to follow the contours of the hull. That's only one of the reasons you should use the vinylester. The other is that you would need to put a vinyl layer between anyway and you then would have to ensure that no where in the process had you faired down to the epoxy layer... its a total pia and will provide no benefit but additional risks and cost.
Edit- You could use polyester resin as well however - not quite as strong a bond - and not as good a barrier layer for something that may end up underwater and it stretches more and is not as resistant to stress cracking . The only benefit to the poly in this case would be cost... to the point that many boats are made with poly with the exception of the outer layer which is made with vinylester - for the reasons discussed above. |
||
ScottZ
Platinum Member Joined: January-20-2004 Location: Clanton, AL Status: Offline Points: 1154 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I am located in Central Alabama and you are welcome to look at mine. |
||
Scott Zuelzke
Lake Mitchell , AL 1984 Ski Nautique 1972 Skier |
||
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
|
||
74Wind
Grand Poobah Joined: August-02-2011 Location: Georgia Status: Offline Points: 2101 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
What lake? |
||
1974 Southwind 18
1975 Century Mark II |
||
ScottZ
Platinum Member Joined: January-20-2004 Location: Clanton, AL Status: Offline Points: 1154 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Lake Mitchell, just east of Clanton. I am about 45 minutes south of Birmingham.
|
||
Scott Zuelzke
Lake Mitchell , AL 1984 Ski Nautique 1972 Skier |
||
Eether
Groupie Joined: October-20-2015 Location: Greenville Status: Offline Points: 64 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Thanks for the explanation Joe, I think I'll go the vinylester route. Epoxy while easier to deal with seems like it will create too many compromises and complications.
To condense a couple different posts in one place, is this the right process. Remove all old gelcoat rubrail to rubrail. Use vinylester resin to lay veiling mat directly to the bare hull. Use vinylester resin with us composites sm fairing compound to fair the hull in preparation for gelcoat. Is the 1581 surfacing veil mat that fiberglast sells the right stuff for this application? It's 1.2oz/sg yard Also, is overlapping the the veiling mat over centerline of the hull bottom several inches each side the correct procedure? Will two gallons of resin be enough for all of this? Thanks for the suggestions and the pictures guys! |
||
Eether
Groupie Joined: October-20-2015 Location: Greenville Status: Offline Points: 64 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Well, just a couple more hours sanding and the hull should be ready for gel.. I'd take some pictures, but I don't think I can hold a camera up...
While waiting for fairing compound to set up, I've been working on some of the mechanical issues. In switching from the dearbo to the longer velvet drive, I shortened the prop shaft the difference. However, from the wear marks from the cutlass bearing it looks like the shaft has always had 2" overhang past the strut. The the total length is 53" now, but should I shorten it another inch? The prop is a federal 12x14 but I'll probably get a Acme later this summer if that makes any difference with hull clearance. |
||
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21182 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Shorten another 1.5" (aim for 1/2" clearance). 12" federal will actually encroach a little more than the 12.5" diam acme replacement.
Pics when you regain your strength! |
||
Post Reply | Page <1 234 |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |