Prop Shaft Seal |
Post Reply | Page 12> |
Author | |
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: March-03-2010 at 6:19pm |
Whats the best way to know if you need a new prop shaft seal? Iam getting ready to pull my rudder and re-pac it and wanted to do everything at one time. Thanks Ryan
|
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
WakeSlayer
Grand Poobah Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ryan
If you cannot get it to slow to 5-6 drips per minute. Have you tried just tightening down the rudder packing? You can tighten that so it doesn't drip, unlike the shaft packing. It is cheap and easy enough to do so if you are definitely doing one, just do the other at the same time. You will want to verify the size of both. Will be either 3/16" or 1/4". I use the goretex stuff from DIM, or others. IIRC the Mustang are each different. You want to stagger the joints, and overwrap it around a dowel or something the same circumference as the respective shafts and then cut at the joint, so the cut is at the same angle, not straight. You will get a better seal that way. |
|
Mike N
1968 Mustang |
|
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks, I have thought about putting a drippless XPC shaft seal in it. Not sure if I will or not. All I know is late last summer I was getting about 3 to 4 inches of water in it after being at the lake for a couple of hours. May be overkill but I just thought I would replace it all to be on the safe side. I would hate to leave in the water overnight and have it full the next morning! LOL............
Ryan |
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
WakeSlayer
Grand Poobah Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Oh. Yeah, you are going to want to check on that. To do both with goretex, it will cost about $30 total, maybe $35. Once you dig in there, it is really an easy thing to understand and replace. Do not pack the propshaft too tight or it will burn up. Hand tighten, check, adjust accordingly.
Edit: That is a ton of water, you may want to look at your exhaust, etc for leaks. My SN leaked a lot and perhaps would have leaked that much, but one look and you would know. A small hole in the hull will leak a lot too. Found that out in the Mustang. |
|
Mike N
1968 Mustang |
|
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Adjusting the prop shaft sounds pretty easy. I will look up DIM and see what I can do. Does the drips need to be in or out of gear or just floating? Thanks again...................
|
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
Waterdog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-27-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2020 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ryan,
I think you'll be happy with gortex/teflon packing. It's much better than old school waxed rope. There's a commercial fishing supply on my way to work, I buy a lot of stuff there. If ANY of you guy's want shaft packing I think the 1/4 teflon packing is $3.50 a foot & 3/16 a little cheaper you'll use almost 2 ft.(for the prop shaft) So how about this "deal" E-mail me what size you need and your address I'll pick it up the next day and put it in the mail for a $10- donation to Keith to help keep us together. But you gotta call now cause you know we can't do this all day! |
|
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I appreciate it sounds like a deal. I need to take the shaft and rudder out to see what size I need. Should know in the next day or so. Thanks
|
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
lonestar
Senior Member Joined: August-17-2008 Location: Lafayette N.J. Status: Offline Points: 290 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Can anyone describe how to go about removing the rudder to repack it ?
The reason I ask, Im gettin a couple of inches of water in the boat pretty quick while at the dock ? Im guessing I need to tighten somthing down a bit. |
|
lonestar
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Have you looked under your gas tank to get a idea of the rudder port/packing gland set up? The rudder does not need to be removed but maybe on the gas tank!! You'll see the packing gland nut with a jam nut under it just like your prop shaft is set up. Try tightening up the packing first before repacking. The jam nut is loosened and the packing nut is tightened. You can tighten up a rudder port pretty tight because unlike a prop shaft it's not rotating constantly so heat isn't a issue. Try the tightening first as mentioned. |
|
Tomski
Senior Member Joined: October-19-2006 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 227 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I have the Oj dripless in mine and it's brilliant. It's got three seasons use on it and I have never had any problems with it.
The only water that gets in the bilge is either what you bring in on your wet gear or spray. On a flat day if you don't ride the bilge is dry. |
|
Easily Parted From Money
|
|
lonestar
Senior Member Joined: August-17-2008 Location: Lafayette N.J. Status: Offline Points: 290 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks Pete, I had the tank out a year ago not thinking to check on the rudder. Im putting a new sending unit in soon so I guess I will try to snake under the tank and get a look at the rudder.
|
|
lonestar
|
|
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks Tomski thats good to know. I know the dripless is more money but it may be better in the long run. On a normal seal how often should you chnge them?
|
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21182 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Maybe this is a stupid question, but have you actually determined that the packing is the source of the water intrusion? If not, Id drain all the water, remove the motorbox, back seat, rear floor panels and anything else that would give you a clear view of the bilge. Clean everything as best you can and dry it 100%, then drop it in the water and see where the water is coming in. We found a leak in the rudder port itself on the BFN- we had to drop the port and reseal it. No amount of packing would have stopped that leak! |
|
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
You know I never did check it before we put it up for the winter. I cant believe I didnt do that. Any good ideas to check it without going to the lake? Still a little cold here. Appreciate all the help....
|
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Take everything out that TRBenj already mentioned, and first just dunk it in the lake. If it is a packing or another leak, you'll notice it right away. This helps differentiate a hull leak vs. cooling system or exhaust when the engine is running.
|
|
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Everything is out right now so I need to get it to the lake and check it out. Thanks
|
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ok I went out and looked it over and the front brass coupler has alot of up and down play in it. Iam guessing its pushing alot of water through there?
|
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Are you talking about the packing gland for the prop shaft located about a foot behind the transmission? It has a rubber hosed clamped to it? looks simular to the top of the rudder under the gas tank?
|
|
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yes the top nut is very loose. I cant believe I have not noticed that.
|
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ryan,
Many like yourself are unfamilier with some of the proper parts terms on boats so I suggest posting pictures next time something like this comes up. Since the packing gland nut is loose, first try tightening it before you do a repack. This must be done in the water so it will get the proper water lubrication. Tighten by hand first then by small increments with a wrench. The packing assembly must not run hot. If it does, then it's too tight. You should see about 3 to 5 drips past the gland every minute. After every adjustment, don't forget to tighten the jam nut under the packing nut. It's ther to prevent rotation of the nut from the prop shaft rotating. |
|
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks, I will try to tighten it first and see what I have from there.
|
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
well it's going to be hard to tell but you might want to see if there is actually ay packing in it, since it's loose odds are it's been spit out of the gland all ready.
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The depth the packing nut screws on will tell if there's packing still in it. The packing is probably still in there. That's why they make these: |
|
Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks I will look at it. Iam going to try and take it loose today and see what I have.
|
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
bubbaskier
Groupie Joined: February-10-2010 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 43 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I am repacking my driveshaft gland and found this very usefull link. Thanks Hollywood you made my life easier. I appreciate all the expert advice this forum has to offer. KUDOS!!! |
|
rman56
Gold Member Joined: April-13-2009 Location: Kansas Status: Offline Points: 661 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I finished mine and used the Gortex and it works great, basically drippless.
|
|
1983 Ski Nautique
|
|
merbesfield
Senior Member Joined: June-22-2009 Location: Lake Rabun Status: Offline Points: 183 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
What tools are required? What size wrenches etc. so I can be sure to have the right tools down at the dock. Also, how do I find out what size packing so I can order it and have it if needed vs. being down for a week?
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Mark,
I had to do a search to find your boat year!! A 84 most likely uses the 3/16" packing. Just get both the 3/16 and 1/4"! You can always use the 1/4" on the rudder port. Packing nut adjustable wrenches are available but most will use pipe or slip joint wrenches. |
|
hughman
Groupie Joined: June-17-2010 Location: MI Status: Offline Points: 69 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I love this site! I am trying to replace my drive shaft packing on an 81' Ski Nautique, but there is a ring around the shaft just up from the large nut so i can not move the nut up the shaft to get the old packing out. This ring has a hole through it, I tried to knock the pin out but it won't budge. any ideas? Thanks...
|
|
Post Reply | Page 12> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |