Manifold Gaskets?

kapla wrote: thanks pete now are those marks standarized or universal, or every bolt maker put its own marking?

They are standard SAE markings for the inch system. Every graded hex head cap screw will have them. However, if no markings, then they will be a grade 2 (or lower) - fine for general use when strength isn't important.

Metrics have different markings.

Saturday morning went poking around through my nuts and bolt collection, and if hot damb if I didnt find a grade 5 bolt to finish my manifolds and gaskets job. I was pleased, and finished the job late saturday night. My boat is ready to go, all winter projects are done.. Thanks guys.. After seeing those pics at the St John Run over the weekend, I am ready put mine in the water.. O yea, almost done with winter projects, got to finish sanding my platform and teak oil it. Do that this weekend.

8122pbrainard wrote: Check the heads of the bolts that came with your kit. A grade 5 will have 3 radial slashes/ribs on it. A grade 8 will have 6. If they have no marks on the head, they are a grade 2 and you'll want to through those out!

hey pete by any chance you got a picture of the menctioned marks the bolts should have to identify them?

Lee,
There's nothing really wrong with a decent grade of carbon steel bolt as long as you get some never-seize on the threads and they are a grade 5 or better. Actually, I would prefer a grade 5 (or 8) carbon over the stainless just because of their stength. A grade 5 has a tensile of 120,000 psi whereas a 18-8 or 316 grade of stainless is only 70,000 psi. I've broken too many stainless bolts to know that you only want to use them in bad corrosive environments.

Check the heads of the bolts that came with your kit. A grade 5 will have 3 radial slashes/ribs on it. A grade 8 will have 6. If they have no marks on the head, they are a grade 2 and you'll want to through those out!

BTW, give the WD40 to your wife to use around the house on things like a squeeky hinge. It's not the greatest stuff around and more "hype" than anything. Most of it evaporates leaving you with nothing! (that hinge will squeek again Too!!)

Chris,
Yea they came with a kit I bought from Houston Water Sports. The bolts that came with the kit where not stainless steel though.. If I need too, I can find those pretty easily..

Chris,
Yea bolts where pretty easy on coming out. I bought the boat in 05, it must have been done then before I got the boat. The hard part was taking the exhaust hoses off.. They made me feel like that.. lol Saturday I will have the new gasket and put back toghter. So you are saying, when I put back toghter, do not tighten all bolts down, and check the threads. Should I spray w-d-40 for preventive rust again. Or something else my friend...

Worked on the boat yesterday afternoon.. I apperciate the great advice you guys gave me on this job. I performed it correctly, and had no problems repairing. It makes it easy when you have the right tools.. Now just waiting on gaskets to get here, and finish getting those rust stains off.. Thanks guys!!

skicat2001 wrote:    looking for a more thicker wrench. so if I can recall,

wrong you want a thinner wall for this application. Thicker is going to get you into trouble and not allow the wrench to fit on the hex because it'll hit the casting.

hey tull, get some pictures while you do the job!!!
they´ll rise up the interest of the thread!! more if comming from a BBC ...
kapla

skicat2001 wrote: How bout these? http://home.pronto.com/mpm/pa-12-pt-wrench/aq-_SIZE_12-_USIZE_point_pint_port-_HN_wrench/c-v1_11_107_670?adid=s10-173-6037-10_gs

the kleins are junk not sure on the other they might be ok but hard to tell with out looking at them. The wall thickness on the round box end part of the wrench is what your looking at and the thinner the better.

How bout these?

http://home.pronto.com/mpm/pa-12-pt-wrench/aq-_SIZE_12-_USIZE_point_pint_port-_HN_wrench/c-v1_11_107_670?adid=s10-173-6037-10_gs

Behl wrote: Question - Having never changed mine. Want to know if a thin-wall 12pt socket on an extension would work?

Steve,I
It's the two bolts on the aft end of a riser style manifold. They are in a pocket in the side of the casting so no you can't get a socket on them.

Question - Having never changed mine. Want to know if a thin-wall 12pt socket on an extension would work?

it was MATCO BTW, you don't want the 6 point box end wrench you'll have trouble finding one to start with most are 12 pt.

Choice's

Snap-on
Matco
Mac
Sear's professional series.


so really your limited to sears to be honest just make sure it's the professional series, it'll be smoother and shinnier than the stand forged wrenches they sell. If you have a friend that is a mechanic then one of the professional tool salemen might call on them weekly so you might be able to pick one up that way since they are usually sold off of trucks and not in a store.

the six point limits the angle that you can actually fit the wrench on the bolt's hex head so it might take a bit longer using it but if that is what you have and it's thin enough in the right area then there really isn't a need to buy a new one then just make do with what you have.

Pete and Chris,
alright.. so I Can find that PB Blaster at Wal-Mart.. Great my favorite store.. I get that today. On this 6 point or 12pt metal wrench, you say with a 12 pt i will not get enough swing for the rear bolts. Will I need both these wrenches to do the job, or will the 6 pt do it ok. Sounds like the hard part is the rear bolts. Which one is better? And which brand you guys like best, I might pick one up, and keep for the future.. Chris mentioned metco..