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Custom 1965 Correct Craft Mustang build

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-07-2012 at 7:25am
Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:


I keep seeing doug fir, now correct me if i'm mistaken but isnt that what they build interiors walls out of? That really surprises me, the treated version isnt a better option?

Yes, Doug Fir is a common wood used for contruction but typically for high strength components like joists and headers.

You NEVER want to use treated wood with any kind of resin glass layup. The resin and treated do not like each other so the resin will not bond. It may seem fine when first done but it will come off. Also, treated typically is of unknown moisture content.

With the CPES and epoxy, the Doug Fir is a basic and sound choice.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-07-2012 at 12:24am
Holy crap there is a lot of choices for stringers!! I had no idea it was so debated. Can somebody just tell me the best choice LOL

Cost isnt a factor. I only want to do this once, ever. I guess I dont want the stringers to weigh 100 pounds each either but I'm really willing to go the distance.

I keep seeing doug fir, now correct me if i'm mistaken but isnt that what they build interiors walls out of? That really surprises me, the treated version isnt a better option?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 7:58pm
Heres another one. This guy wanted it done in 4 days because he only visits his ADK camp for a week in the summer! That was a very tight time contraint. I had no choice but to reuse the carpet and it was a pain getting the anchor well port lined right up but it turned out nice. He just needed a quick patch job so his seats would stop ripping away from the floor. By the time we delivered it the anchor well was still wet. I told him to not put anything in there for a couple days, he said he didnt care and was more than happy to have his boat on time. Nice boat, wish I had more time for detail but he just needed it asap.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 7:22pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

   
Wow! yes, I agree that it's hard to imagine someone putting in major man hours on an old hull like that!

Marine ply? Why? How long are you getting the sheets? If not long enough for the length needed, what are you doing for the butt joint?


I'm honestly not sure why the marine ply, its what my boss has always ordered so thats what I use, didnt even know of any superior alternatives?

We buy 4x8 sheets, I havent found a boat yet that was assembled with any other size. That makes it very easy to copy the old design. I'll only change the old design if it was a defect that caused rot. 4x8 sheets are also "fairly easy" to wield.

As for that joint I think it was 1/4 aluminum lap with grade 5 anodized self tapping torx. (I love those torx!) Usually if I had to do a joint like that I would use 3/4 ply lap but I dont think I had the space there.


As far as that boat goes, we didnt even give the guy an estimate!! He said "make it look nice, I want grey carpet and red seats." So thats exactly what we did.

It had no sentimental value, we sold that boat to him for about 1500 the year before. Shortly after we gave it back to him we had a storm and it broke free and crashed into his 35x mastercraft. Then I did some gelcoat work hahaha!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 6:48pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

It must be less expensive to repair than buy another boat.

Pete, I know you're correct about the no need to swell up the bottom, but it seems back when wood boats were still in regular use, it was pretty common to see marinas soaking them every spring. I guess because very few people replaced the bottoms?

Bruce,
The quick answer is yes! However, replacing just the canvas and bedding compound wasn't that big of a deal. You did not need to flip the hull since if done regularly all that was needed was to pull the outer layer of planking and the reuse it. Sometimes the screws needed to be up sized. It's how the silicon bronze screw guys came up with number 7 and 9 sizes!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 5:56pm
It must be less expensive to repair than buy another boat.

Pete, I know you're correct about the no need to swell up the bottom, but it seems back when wood boats were still in regular use, it was pretty common to see marinas soaking them every spring. I guess because very few people replaced the bottoms?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 5:10pm
Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:

Heres a couple pics of the typical kind of boat I would fix up. This dingy was for a doctors young son. Marine ply for the stringers

Wow! yes, I agree that it's hard to imagine someone putting in major man hours on an old hull like that!

Marine ply? Why? How long are you getting the sheets? If not long enough for the length needed, what are you doing for the butt joint?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 4:21pm
wow it shocks me people will invest 2-3K in a boat like that!?!?! I guess it could have sentimental value???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 4:15pm
Heres a couple pics of the typical kind of boat I would fix up. Marine ply for the stringers and deck with fibre matt for reinforcement. Cant remember the brand of resin we use, something through morgan













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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 4:00pm
Jim,
Thanks for filling us in. It sounds like you work for a diversified marina with the exception of no woodworking. That Chris looks like it's in pretty decent shape cosmetically but it needs bottom work. A double planked bottom is water tight and never needs soaking. However, they were all designed to have the outer planking removed every 10 years or so and have the canvas/bedding compound between the inner and outer planking changed. It's even in the Chris manuals!! Do your customer a favor and recommend bottom work. The "latest and greatest" fix for a double plank is using 5200 between the inner and outer planks. It never needs replacing! He sure has taken care of the waterline and above - why not the bottom? Bad advice about having to soak the hull???


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 3:57pm
I just got the vin off the hull from todd, thanks todd!

gt21t522981

Mean anything to you guys?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 3:33pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


If you spend some time using the site's search feature, you will find that using composite decking is really a bad idea. Using it has been dicussed as well as being tested. The bottom line is the bond is bad. Even using epoxy, the basic component is recycled PE from old milk bottles. PE is what's used for glue containers since the glues do not stick.

"Structural properties"? look into the details - They recommend never going beyond 16" centers for the joists!

I also feel if you looked at the flex modulus specs between it and Doug Fir, you would be in shock!!!

You mentioned "customers"? Are you in the boat restoration biz?


I restore boats, just not nice ones lol. Mostly 1980's rot boxes that never get covered. Many of our customers would rather have their floors replaced for 2 to 4k then buy a newer 5k boat. I mean, I guess I understand the logic of saving a few bucks. I'm in a very... odd market segment to say the least.
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Soaking? The only hull that needs soaking is a single plank on batten. Please, fill me in on your trade.


We dont do any wood work (because ive never been taught :( ) but we are known for our work with the motors. We dont differentiate when hanging a wooden boat, they always get hung until we can come back and check on them in a week or so. When we drop 90% of the wooden boats the customer hasnt even come up for the summer yet! Its really just our way of making sure no leaks have devolved and that they dont sink while nobody is around. Heres a pic of one of my favorite chrises we take care of, I dont know what kind of bottom she has but she takes on water for a day or two, stops leaking fairly quickly. She drives like a schoolbus in outer space and she doesnt have the ability to plane off, but a cool craft none the less.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 12:47pm
Originally posted by peter1234 peter1234 wrote:

Pete i was reading that thread , not a lot said about those lvls what would your take be on those , pros and cons,

Peter,
I believe I was the one way back who recommended the LVL as an alternate if Doug Fir wasn't available. It's an "engineered" product so it's very consistent in strength. All the grain runs the length of the LVL and with the addition of the glue, makes it stronger that a solid. You can look at the charts and see an LVL will carry more load than a solid. It however must be sealed with a decent CPES treatment and of course an epoxy layup. Lagging engine mounts to it is not an issue since the grain is running the proper direction but, after drilling the pilot holes for the lags, they must be CPES'd and then sealed with 5200.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 12:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Maximal691 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 11:04am
Where in the adks are you? Good luck with the project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 9:18am
Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:


Stinger thought, I was walking through lowes and was eyeballing their composite decking, what do you guys think about using that stuff for stingers? It has a nice texture to it for the glass to grab, seams like it has good structural properties and should never, ever deteriorate.

Not very interested in putting in any fir. I'm looking for max . Not really interested in that coosa stuff, they only sell it in big boards and I really dont want 400 bucks worth of scrap left over after this job. Ill make the floor out of ply but I really want the stingers to be composite. Never had a customer request composite stringers so this is all new to me.

If you spend some time using the site's search feature, you will find that using composite decking is really a bad idea. Using it has been dicussed as well as being tested. The bottom line is the bond is bad. Even using epoxy, the basic component is recycled PE from old milk bottles. PE is what's used for glue containers since the glues do not stick.

"Structural properties"? look into the details - They recommend never going beyond 16" centers for the joists!

I also feel if you looked at the flex modulus specs between it and Doug Fir, you would be in shock!!!

You mentioned "customers"? Are you in the boat restoration biz?
Originally posted by Hussler Hussler wrote:


I have driven cris'es, centurys, garwoods even a freaking dodge and while nice classics are fun to look at, it gets old soaking classics for customers just so they can sit all summer.

Soaking? The only hull that needs soaking is a single plank on batten. Please, fill me in on your trade.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 3:41am
Sweet, can wait to hear her rumble.

Stinger thought, I was walking through lowes and was eyeballing their composite decking, what do you guys think about using that stuff for stingers? It has a nice texture to it for the glass to grab, seams like it has good structural properties and should never, ever deteriorate.

Not very interested in putting in any fir. I'm looking for max . Not really interested in that coosa stuff, they only sell it in big boards and I really dont want 400 bucks worth of scrap left over after this job. Ill make the floor out of ply but I really want the stingers to be composite. Never had a customer request composite stringers so this is all new to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mackwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 2:14am
Jim....The boat has not been put in water with current 351, It has a "T" in the pick up hose to tap a garden hose and run that way. There is also a garden hose fitting at the transom where you can hook up w/o opening engine cover, take a look at the e-bay pic of rear, it's located just to left of swim platform support bracket, just under rub rail. You maybe want to look at /replace impeller, only because of time... The engine had ran the 90 hours in the Chris Craft, Depending on my load at work, I'll try and send you a video on your phone of it running in a few days...I have a load of pics, I'll burn to a CD and give to you...will be in touch...Todd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 2:13am
Also Todd, I'm very thankful for your openness and honesty. It makes me very confident in my purchase. I have to drive a 15 year old Ford 1,400 miles for this thing, its best to get the idea in my head that there's nothing sugar coated about this craft. A engine that runs and no fist sized holes in the hull and it will be worth the trouble haha
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 1:59am
Thanks for your contribution Todd!!! I totally forgot to ask you, the engine that's in it now, has it ever been powered through the water or just installed and run on a hose?

Don't worry about it losing too much of its originality, I'll salvage what I can and keep it very tasteful. I know it must be tough to sell a machine you've had for a long time, but once you see all the time and money I'll have to put into this thing it wont seem so bad LOL!!

I intend to use this boat as she she meant to be used, for fun! I have driven cris'es, centurys, garwoods even a freaking dodge and while nice classics are fun to look at, it gets old soaking classics for customers just so they can sit all summer.

Oh, and heres a few pics of the bayliner I'll be selling in the spring. Figured it would be good to complete the circle of life on this thread.



Shes been an awesome boat but just isnt worth putting the money into the interior (slowly degrading) She has been super reliable over the years but its best is she lives out her days with a big family that can utilize such a monster. It was sweet owning a 50MPH sleeper but she just doesnt fit my personality.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mackwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 1:44am
Originally posted by Tim D Tim D wrote:

Looks like someone put some Seacast on the stringer in front of the motor mount. That's what that pinkish-beige color looks like. Take the Fram oil filter off and put a FL-1A on it. Does it still have the number ID plate on the stringer? It should be about where the water hose is laying on the stringer.


TimD, Not sure about the seacast, and there's none on the stringers but the entire hull inculding under the floor, & all the stringers are that same pinkish-beige color....stringers are no means rock solid, and are orginals, but don't seem to be an issue, hussler's got that on his to do list.
The yuky blue insides was painted on later....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mackwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 1:28am
....continued....After losing engine and related parts, like Holman moody front timing cover exhaust system, etc....Boat was put on back burner. Then in 2007 I again got the itch to get it running. At the time my dad had a older Shamrock inboard fishing boat that need a new engine as well. A search on e-bay and we together purchased a old late 60's Chris Craft Wood hull, like a 30 or so foot boat. Chris Craft had been repowered with 2 new 351 / 260hp fords. with 90 hours on each (engines had new gauge panels in engine room) We purchased entire boat for 3K. Boat was in Michigan and owner had lost interest. We salvaged engines, drives shafts etc... and junked rest of boat. I took the RH engine and my Pop used the LH... Engine was installed, transmission resealed, I took stainless plate and bent a 90 degree, bolted the plate though the side of stringer and used mercruiser big block chevy rubber insulated engine mounts, and all the other work that I stated in my for sale post. Engine idles very smooth, no shake, no vibration & I wish I would have had other engine on those mounts. I know there not OEM Show spec, but it's how CC should have built the mounts.. any rate,

I wish nothing but the best for hussler and I know there's a load on knowledge and passion for these boats here,I lurked here for years and used the site quite often for ideas and tips.... It's that passion the makes these boats the collectors ther are. I mean You dont see many 40+ year old Mastercrafts do you?
Respectfully,
Todd O'Neal
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mackwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2012 at 1:11am
... Congrads to hussler on the purchase of my boat, "CC & Water" I have had this boat for 22 years, since 1990, and put a lot of hours on other engine, (302 LH) I was really looking forward to rebuilding it and keeping it forever, but life changes and it's better off going to a Cat like hussler, someone who has the skill to finish it right. After talking to him a few times on the phone I feel really good about the direction he's going with the boat as I was very attached to it and really wanted it to be lake worthy once more. I totaly respect some member here that think all boats can and must be restored to show level, but time has made that harder though the years, so hopefully hussler can do boat in his own style, use and enjoy this boat for 22 years like I did.....as far as what he paid, I can tell you that anybody that's bought a complete engine knows I lost money, but it's cool with me knowing hussler's going to keep this boat going.....I have loads of pics, but will forward them to hussler and let him decide what he wants to broadcast on the www...

But I feel safe telling the history of the boat as far back as I know.
The boat was purchased new by someone in north Georgia(name unknown to me), a close friend I knew in high school bought the boat around 1980, it would not crank and when he got it home to Tallahassee Fl, I went over and helped him get it running, had stuck points, and exhaust manifods rusted though. We replaced points and manifods/risers and skied on Lake Jackson Florida for the next few years....In 1985 or so, My friend took a job in Tampa and moved to an apartment where he could not park boat. It was covered and stored behind a shed in my backyard for the next 6 or so years. Neglected and out of sight, cover rotted, boat filled with pine straw, and rain water, trailer rusted, and boat eventully boat fell though tailer onto ground. In 1990 I sold my home and moved boat onto present trailer, cleaned out hull and covered it, stored at lot where i worked. Around 2000/2001 I got the itch to get it running, discovered orginal 260 engine block was cracked and replaced with LH 302 I bought and rebuilt. Boat was skied and run pretty hard for the next 4 or so years as I had a home on a large river near Tallahassee. However after 3 summers, engine developed a rear main seal leak that, while not pouring, should have been addresed. My then 16 y/o son ran it a few weeks on summer vacation and (you guessed it) ran it low enough it spun a rod bearing. I removed engine in spring 2005, then in July engine was lost in flood during hurricane Dennis (only a mounth before katrina) but boat was not at same location. (it was safely stored at my home in Tallahassee......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2012 at 10:58pm
Pete i was reading that thread , not a lot said about those lvls what would your take be on those , pros and cons,
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2012 at 9:15pm
Jim.
Great choice on the Napa Gold or Wix. Best ones out there!

Thanks for getting your profile filled in.

Use the search feature and you will have plenty of reading to do with stringer jobs. Most are Doug Fir, some are composite non wood and I know of one that is LVL because he was in an area that he was having a hard time finding the Doug.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hussler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2012 at 7:50pm
Originally posted by Tim D Tim D wrote:

Looks like someone put some Seacast on the stringer in front of the motor mount. That's what that pinkish-beige color looks like. Take the Fram oil filter off and put a FL-1A on it. Does it still have the number ID plate on the stringer? It should be about where the water hose is laying on the stringer.


Guy said he would look for the plate tomorrow, after he gets the title from his safety deposit box I'll prob run a napa gold/wix. The stringers are coming out regardless.

Any suggestions for CC build threads? I want to see what you guys have built!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2012 at 5:11pm
Looks like someone put some Seacast on the stringer in front of the motor mount. That's what that pinkish-beige color looks like. Take the Fram oil filter off and put a FL-1A on it. Does it still have the number ID plate on the stringer? It should be about where the water hose is laying on the stringer.
Tim D
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Originally posted by DrCC DrCC wrote:

    A few pics were already in here.

Thread: 1965 Mustang Project


I have lifting rings.


Hahaha check that out! Glad I got it for less than he was asking, that would have sucked if I paid more than what he was asking for it. I think it is a fair deal, he gets 1250 for a pile of ****, I get a pile of ****! Well heres the pics transferred from that thread, because NO THREAD IS GOOD WITHOUT PICS!


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   A few pics were already in here.

Thread: 1965 Mustang Project


I have lifting rings.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2012 at 7:59am
Larry,
Come on, you know I need to always push my "keep it original"   

I welcomed him to the site and now that I've seen the pictures of the Mustang, I'm sure he'll be a great addition to the CCfan group.

"hussler"
Welcome again. Make sure you get at least your first name up in your profile. Once you've been around the site more, you will notice most here go by real names and not screen names. Yes, it's a fantastic group - none other like it!


54 Atom


77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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