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Ticking from my GT40 @ GL

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    Posted: August-10-2018 at 8:28pm
Wow! This is another impressive thread and years in the making.

question; Can this sort of issue happen with a carb sys? or is this just an issue with fuel injected motors?

I suppose the cooling obstruction would be the same and overheating of the cylinders would be similar, and if your fuel pump was bad that may cause this too. (right?) or does this type of issue only occur with high pressure injection systems consistent with newer models?

curious, and still learning....
Thanks guys


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gt40KS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2018 at 1:39am
This whole conversation has me thinking back about 4 or 5 months when I first started tearing apart my engine, at first to merely swap the heads, and found what I thought was a nightmare:

Cylinder wall blockage

Still don't regret my decision to trash that rust infested anchor! Who knows if I could have ever gotten all that stuff out of there
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-24-2018 at 1:25am
We all have much to learn from each other. CCF is a godsend when things go wrong. They keep us all away from the bad experiences we might have paying someone a lot to fix our boats!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2018 at 2:03pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by McCoy 1990 ski McCoy 1990 ski wrote:

. I have never seen a fuel pump or injector cause a piston to fail Not trying to dispute the fuel pump being bad but if your damage was a piston, a fuel pump would no have cause that type of failure.

Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

It's a bit dangerous to leave out there that a fuel pump failure would not cause that type of failure in a GT40 when it is a known issue that can and has caused failures -   This was a fixed mapped tuned port setup – no feedback loop from an oxygen sensor to know if things were getting a bit lean

Jeff,
As a master technician with 42 years of experience, how much of it have you dealt with marine engines with fixed mapped injection?



Who cares Pete?

Probably more than you

With his experience I'm sure he would be a good addition to CCF, so stick around and participate Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2018 at 1:03pm
Originally posted by McCoy 1990 ski McCoy 1990 ski wrote:

. I have never seen a fuel pump or injector cause a piston to fail Not trying to dispute the fuel pump being bad but if your damage was a piston, a fuel pump would no have cause that type of failure.

Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

It's a bit dangerous to leave out there that a fuel pump failure would not cause that type of failure in a GT40 when it is a known issue that can and has caused failures -   This was a fixed mapped tuned port setup – no feedback loop from an oxygen sensor to know if things were getting a bit lean

Jeff,
As a master technician with 42 years of experience, how much of it have you dealt with marine engines with fixed mapped injection?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2018 at 12:11pm
It's a bit dangerous to leave out there that a fuel pump failure would not cause that type of failure in a GT40 when it is a known issue that can and has caused failures -   Yes impellor debris also causes said failures, but in this case we already know that it happened again after an engine rebuild where presumably even if there were debris contributing the first time it would have been removed during the rebuild.   The reason the GT40s can fail this way when not too many other setups do has to due with the nature of the engine and its fuel injection system.   This was a fixed mapped tuned port setup – no feedback loop from an oxygen sensor to know if things were getting a bit lean and increase injector timing or back off ignition timing.   It was not the most conservative tune to begin with at high speed and if there was any failure that caused the fuel rail to have lower than nominal pressure then the engine would run leaner than the stock tune. Early fuel pumps had been known to lose pressure or fail slowly, later there were fuel control cell lines that could leak a bit back internally, and then there was whole lack of fuel control cell set of issues in the beginning.   Either way manifold pressure goes to about zero at wot, effective pressure the injector sees goes to low, engine goes lean but no oxygen sensor to increase fuel or kick out a dummy light so pistons get to hot and it was scuff city. It's a real thing, not only possible but it really happened to more than a few GT40s.    However I am not surprised even an experienced tech would not have run into that kind of failure as it wouldn't happen with most fuel injected engines.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2018 at 8:50am
Well I see the explanation of cooling water flow has changed a fair amount

I'd say your statement about the incorrect diagnosis seems to be a case of one technicians opinion vs another technicians opinion back when the boat from 12 years ago was diagnosed and fixed by some technicians.

So regardless of what I may think ................welcome to CCF   

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McCoy 1990 ski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2018 at 2:23am
the openings in the head gasket restrict coolant flow till all the area around the cylinder walls are full and only then does the coolant flow up into the heads coolant passages and back to the thermostat, the holes are designed to restrict coolant flow so its more or less equalized as it moves up into the heads and back to the thermostat, if the holes in the head gasket were not slightly restrictive the front cylinders would be much more effectively cooled as coolant would take the fastest and easiest route of least resistance, having a restrictive head gasket makes all coolant flow paths roughly equal.
With that said, it is not that only the center cylinders overheated, I]m sure all cylinders temperature were rising, It was my way of explaining the additional rise in the center cylinders. Normally water flow thru the small block provides very good cooling. But when a restriction reduces water volume to the point detonation occurs the engine temperature is rising, the center cylinders share the cooling water with a cylinder on each side of them. #1 shares with 2 on one side, 2 shares with 1 and 3, 3 with 2 and 4, 4 with 3 on one side.
The restrictions in the head gaskets do not change, water flow for all cylinders is still at a reduced rate due to restriction and the temperature rise in the center cylinders is faster due to there sharing of cooling water.
Maybe instead of getting into the woods on detonation effects on engine cooling we should raise the more important point that i expect impeller failure occurs often enough and errant pieces of the impeller can and will plug or restrict coolant flow. Complete restriction will be easy to see on the temp gauge. But partial restrictions may go on with only seeing slight gauge rise. At full throttle you may glance at the temp gauge most will be looking where they are going. After several times. who knows how many, detonation damage occurs over and over until piston shatters or only rattles but then its to late.
If your coolant gauge is not pretty rock solid at 160, then you should investigate why.
The members boat that failed twice and then diagnosed the fuel pump caused the piston failure was incorrect. The pump may have been bad, and if so would need replaced.
I expect that if the engine failed twice, he backed of running the engine at full throttle after paying for two repairs. Unlikely restriction cured itself or technician cleaned it out during second repair.
I'm not god but I have 42 years as a professional technician, 26 years as a flat rate technician and 16 years as the factory service rep. for Toyota. I'm trying to help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 7:25pm
Originally posted by McCoy 1990 ski McCoy 1990 ski wrote:

the four center (middle) cylinders are #2-3-6-7.
Cooling water from the lake enters the engine from the raw water pump.
When it enters the engine it cannot be everywhere at once, if you put dye in it and could see the hydrodynamics (flow thru the engine) you would see cylinders 1-4-5-8 get the coolest water first, also because the center cylinders are surrounded by the outer ones they run a little hotter (a cylinder on each side of the inner ones and only one side on the outer ones.
I guess I should have said middle cylinder's
Due to restricted flow, cooling was marginal, and #2 was the weakest so to say of the middle cylinders.
This is not to say that it could not have occurred in any cylinder, but to point out why it was in the middle


So let's see, the water leaves the RWP goes into the thermostat housing, some goes into the circulating pump and into the engine and some goes to the exhaust manifolds,

The water in the engine goes thru the cylinder heads and then to the front of the intake manifold on each side and back to the thermostat housing

What is it that makes the water decide to flow through 1,4,5 and 8 first.?

You must have some source for this info on the flow characteristics through a small block Ford.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McCoy 1990 ski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 5:50pm
the four center (middle) cylinders are #2-3-6-7.
Cooling water from the lake enters the engine from the raw water pump.
When it enters the engine it cannot be everywhere at once, if you put dye in it and could see the hydrodynamics (flow thru the engine) you would see cylinders 1-4-5-8 get the coolest water first, also because the center cylinders are surrounded by the outer ones they run a little hotter (a cylinder on each side of the inner ones and only one side on the outer ones.
I guess I should have said middle cylinder's
Due to restricted flow, cooling was marginal, and #2 was the weakest so to say of the middle cylinders.
This is not to say that it could not have occurred in any cylinder, but to point out why it was in the middle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 3:56pm
Originally posted by McCoy 1990 ski McCoy 1990 ski wrote:

the four center cylinders are the last to get cool water and the first to heat up..


Can you explain this sentence?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McCoy 1990 ski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 3:43pm
cooling water flow was restricted with very little flow to thermostat port, ( housing on top of thermostat that hose from raw water pump connects to has an opening in two directions, one going to feed engine cooling water flow) with restricted flow, the four center cylinders are the last to get cool water and the first to heat up. #2 piston suffered detonation as most likely all the cylinders. # 2 failed, other center cylinders just started to go, but would have still been OK if caught now, but it was to late for #2. All pistons need replaced and bore 30 over, if 30 wont clean it up then 60 is to far, new block time.
I have pictures of water flow thru restricted housing the with restriction removed. Hooked hose to housing to test. Outcome surprised me, didn't see exactly how restriction effected flow until I tested it with water.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 2:46pm
Rob does not have that boat anymore.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 1:50pm
So why did only the center cylinders overheat because of the impeller chunks in the thermostat housing?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McCoy 1990 ski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2018 at 1:29pm
Rob, 81Nautique
I just purchased this boat, the description of your engine failure (piston scuff) is the same as mine. I have 42 years as a master mechanic and when I disassembled my engine I found the previous owner must have had an impeller failure, I found pieces of the impeller blocking water flow at the thermostat housing causing the center cylinders to overheat. The temperature gauge was going from 160 deg at slower speeds to 180 at higher speeds, it caught my attention but I didn't realize how hot the engine was getting at the center cylinders. The location of the engine temp sensor was not able to show the true temp in that area and after a full throttle run detonation occurred taking the #2 piston out. I have never seen a fuel pump or injector cause a piston to fail and wanted to see if you have been avoiding full throttle preventing additional engine failure. If so remove the hose from the raw water pump at the thermostat housing and inspect inside for impeller debris. Not trying to dispute the fuel pump being bad but if your damage was a piston, a fuel pump would no have cause that type of failure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McCoy 1990 ski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2018 at 5:09pm
Did he have to bore the engine the first time, I can check the fuel pressure. Do you know if PCM has any problems additionally I should be aware of, don't want this to reoccur. Or if you would take a call I would PM you my number, thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2018 at 4:55pm
Originally posted by McCoy 1990 ski McCoy 1990 ski wrote:

I seem to have the same ticking problem, went out yesterday and made a full throttle run. shut engine off and when restarted noticed a ticking sound. On idle its not as loud as when its increased to 1500 or so and also noticed its got a double tap sound when returning to idle. I am 40 years master certified technician and have found this post. I will bore scope and compression and leak down today,
If it is the same piston skirt sound I would like to know if anyone knows the root cause (lean) and what can be done to prevent this after the repair. 1997 sport nautique 285hrs. Somewhere I seen reference to a PCM service bulletin for piston shrinkage, if anyone has a copy or direction for the repair of the root cause. Sorry to jump ahead without inspection, but think this is probably whats wrong. Also if reboring the engine, any suggestions on piston replacement that is better (teflon skirts)? Thanks


The root cause of Rob's engine failure was ultimately a bad fuel pump/low fuel pressure, it leaned out on a full throttle pass and took about 10 seconds to scuff a piston. Unfortunetly The mechanic never diagnosed the problem and it happened again, this time tuliping several valves, not the major damage as the first time but it had to come apart again and have the heads serviced. When I brought the heads to the machine shop the machinist instantly knew it ran lean so the fuel pump was replaced and it ran fine after that..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote McCoy 1990 ski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2018 at 4:21pm
I seem to have the same ticking problem, went out yesterday and made a full throttle run. shut engine off and when restarted noticed a ticking sound. On idle its not as loud as when its increased to 1500 or so and also noticed its got a double tap sound when returning to idle. I am 40 years master certified technician and have found this post. I will bore scope and compression and leak down today,
If it is the same piston skirt sound I would like to know if anyone knows the root cause (lean) and what can be done to prevent this after the repair. 1997 sport nautique 285hrs. Somewhere I seen reference to a PCM service bulletin for piston shrinkage, if anyone has a copy or direction for the repair of the root cause. Sorry to jump ahead without inspection, but think this is probably whats wrong. Also if reboring the engine, any suggestions on piston replacement that is better (teflon skirts)? Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2006 at 10:02am
Start tearing it down, you'll learn a lot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2006 at 7:28am
I believe according to the mechanics that Rob's engine only had moments to live before that piston/rod assembly went kablooey.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2006 at 12:02am
Question for those more mechanical than I. Rob's motor is still running. If he has already decided to replace it, what does he have to lose by just using the boat till it breaks? Will it break, or will the bad cylinder just get worse? Does the pinging cylinder present any physical danger to Rob or his passengers? I don't know. Just a thought. BKH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2006 at 11:42pm
This underlines a need for another smaller CC gathering so we can get Rob out skiing this summer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p/allen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2006 at 11:34pm
Sorry to hear of your early ending but hopefully you have good friends that can take you for a pull around the lake. Good luck

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rleinen79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2006 at 4:04pm
Thanks guys....I've think I've decided to bite the bullet and just go for the long block. I found one for $3550 plus $200 shipping. Marina wants $700 +\- in labor, so with tax, I'm at $4800 +\- out the door. Unfortunately, having just paid for our 250 person wedding, my wife and I don't have that money to plunk down right now. So, this season will be cut sadly short, and we'll hope to be back in full swing in the spring with no worries. Everyone says the gt40s are bulletproof, so maybe the next one will be.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2006 at 4:00pm
Rob, Safe to assume this is a Multiport FI engine?

If so, if one slug grew enough to score and fail, and they rebuild or replace a shortblock, I bet it will happen again if they just button it up and nobody investigates why that jug went lean and got too hot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautique2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2006 at 3:28pm
I agree with your thought process, Rob. One cylinder down today, maybe two next week. I bought a rebuilt engine for mine with a warranty. I had four bad pistons. I only had 567 hours on my original '86, 351. Now, I'm in great shape, $5,500 installed with lots of replacement parts.

Good luck,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2006 at 10:57pm
re-sleving.....????? usually that's with an aluminum block with steel liners in each cyl, isn't yours a cast-iron block????........... maybe honed out or machined .010" over and new oversized rings if bearing clearance was fine for that cyl.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rleinen79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-25-2006 at 12:20pm
Hey guys.....
PCM isn't really willing to help me out too much (no big surprise there). Tom from MCC (the guy who was at GL) has been terrific to work with on the phone, and he told me to get the boat to them and they'll try to give me the best deal possible on the labor and parts. He also said PCM said to "resleeve" that cylinder. That seems to me to be more of a band-aid than a fix. What if 10 hours down the road another piston lets go? What do you guys think?

Rob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2006 at 1:17am
Rob politely pitch a bitch and work towards a short block worst case, get the labor payed for and angle 1/2 on parts if you have to give some. A 10yr warrenty?????????, the low hours is your friend and leverage, you need a valve job and block work so.... a long block is what you realy need. Build them up to it, (warrenty) don't let them get to far into taking it apart more, before the PCM rep gives the ok on funds!!!! otherwise your getting sucked in and getting drained of funds. You have some decent help just let them do the talking and back them up when the time comes.

Good luck cross your fingers, bitch with a smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rleinen79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2006 at 6:29pm
Originally posted by AWhite70 AWhite70 wrote:



When a cylinder scuffs frequently the piston skirt will collapse slightly creating more clearance with the bore. Then when the cylinder fires the piston can rock back and forth and slap against the bore creating the ticking sound.



This is EXACTLY how the marina explained it to me.....good call Awhite70.

At least I didn't do anything bad to cause this. I would feel worse if I had neglected it, but the marina and MCC both said it was "bad luck". The boat only has 277.3 hours on it. That's why I'm hoping PCM may step up to the plate...especially since they know of the problem.
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