Head gasket direction question

Happy to say that I did my "dry" (hose) test with no issues! Only question is what/where is the SPOUT connector? I need to unplug it to do the timing. Any ideas?

I got nitrile (rubber) gaskets fron NAPA, are resusable & didn't break the bank. No leaks so far at 250 hours.

One quick question: Should I use lock tight on the valve cover bolts so that it hopefully doesn't leak later? Since you can't tighten the outside ones without pulling the exhaust manifolds, I'm wondering if I should use something (especially since the gasket is cork and the torque is only 3-5 ft/lb).

I cant decipher what procedure youre following by your description. If you follow the Comp procedure and compare each lifter using marks taken when the cam is on the base circle (valve closed) then you'll be fine.

So, I finally measured everything. The Crain instructions are misleading (I think) since it says to wait for the pushrod seats in the lifter to move back to the neutral position before marking. I see no "neutral" position. With the rocker arm torqued down, the bled-down lifter piston is at the bottom of travel (lifter spring compress), and when you back off the rocker arm bolt, the piston moves back up to the top of its travel (spring expanded). I don't understand why they'd call top of travel "neutral position" since that seems to mean "middle". Or am I missing something? When the lifters bleed down, they bottom out. Then, when the rocker arm bolt is loosened, the spring in the lifter pushed the push rod up to the top of the lifter piston travel. Or at least that is what I observed and measured.

The smallest gap I measured was about .075, with the largest being betweeen .100 and 110. So it looks like .030 shims for the ones that are .075 to .080, and .060 shims for everything over that.

Just want to make sure I did the measurements correctly since I see no "neutral position". Hope to get the shims on, remeasured, and ready to put the intake manifold back on tomorrow evening.

This reminds me (Billy mentioned it too) that I'm due for a valve clearance adjustment on the solid lifters in my Y block! There is some "clatter" but I've always been taught it's better to hear them than having them too tight. So, I'll pull the valve covers this spring and while I'm in there will do the Y block rocker arm shaft pluging on the one end. This is a common mod to the Y block valve train. Instead of all the oil running out the one end, it provides oil/lube to the rockers.

:-) I'm probably going to stop by the drug store and get a pair of 300 reading glasses (I use 150 now). That should be good for seeing the darn marks! Unbelievable how quickly I went from 20/20 to farsighted and astigmatism. I suspect (based on my very accurate measurement of feeling the two marks with my fingernail and the gap in between), that I'm a bit over .060 so would put in a .030 shim. But I suspect I should confirm my suspicion with the calipers.   :-)

:-) I'm probably going to stop by the drug store and get a pair of 300 reading glasses (I use 150 now). That should be good for seeing the darn marks! Unbelievable how quickly I went from 20/20 to farsighted and astigmatism. I suspect (based on my very accurate measurement of feeling the two marks with my fingernail and the gap in between), that I'm a bit over .060 so would put in a .030 shim. But I suspect I should confirm my suspicion with the calipers.   :-)

I did go back and forth (which is why I can feel them with my fingernails). But yes, my eyesight isn't what it used to be (was great until 48, then downhill quick--good thing I can still see the buoys.....). Also, the pushrods have painted rings in the area, which makes marks harder to see. Well, with the light I may be okay. Otherwise, I just got some extremely fine point Sharpie's (probably only .020 thick), so measuring from center to center should be no problem. Won't get back to it until tomorrow evening, but hopefully it will go well enough that I might have a shot at completing everything and at least testing it with a hose this weekend (if that works, I'll get it in the water for an in-course test). But first things first; don't want to get ahead of myself! :-) It sounds like the valves on each head were consistant in their original preload. I'm hoping it will be the same. Of course, I'll measure each one, but it would be nice if all of them are more or less the same. So, with time, I would assume that the preload will lessen (with wear), so I would think that all things being equal, you'd want to put in a thinner shim (which equals more preload) than a thicker one if you are in the middle. That's my theory at the moment, but I'll reserve judgement until after I actually see and measure the current preload.

Jason, how in the world did you see the marks you make on the push rods with a razor blade? I guess I've got to get some really powerful reading glasses or a magnifying glass. I can feel them with my fingernail, but I can't see to measure them!! I'm going to have to pull out a 300w halogen work light to see if that helps! I guess I can pull the rods out and then I could see them (since I'll have to pull the rocker arms to put in shims anyway). Maybe a fine point sharpie is better, just measure center to center? Otherwise this is going to take forever!

They evolved because people didn't,but that belongs in the off topic section

Gary S wrote: I agree,I ran regular Fel-pro for years with no problems.In the case of the older motors like mine do you think Ford,who most likely put the basic block together used special gaskets? Heck they didn't even put marine carbs,distributors or starters on them either!

Yup!! In that era, the basic block came in and the "marinization" was bolting on the exhaust manifolds!

I agree,I ran regular Fel-pro for years with no problems.In the case of the older motors like mine do you think Ford,who most likely put the basic block together used special gaskets? Heck they didn't even put marine carbs,distributors or starters on them either!

Gordon, it's been a while since I put on a marine head but I remember it being a special stainless steel head gasket for the marine environment. Are the felpros you get at the car parts place suitable for a boat engine?

If you only run in fresh water do you even need marine head gaskets?

Justin, just a heads up (no pun intended). A friend of mine this morning said that since I had already torqued down the starboard head with the gasket facing the rear, since I needed to change the orientation and the gasket had already been torqued, that I should probably get a new gasket. The auto parts place also suggested it (of course they are since they get to sell another gasket). But I don't want to risk it, so I bought a new one. I was able to get just one Feltpro head gasket (as opposed to two, or a whole gasket kit). It was $22, but cheap peace of mind. Just thought I'd mention it if you hadn't pulled and swapped yours yet (or maybe you did use a new one).