HELP tried pulling prop shaft AND !!!!

I have done some reading in posts on pulling the prop shaft from the coupler. I have a 79 nautique with a velvet trans. It has a coupler that the propshaft fits into. I undid the set screws and tried using a method of placing a small socket inbetween the end of the propshaft and the trans shaft. Then using oversize bolts to press the coupler together. I thought this would push the prop shaft out of the coupler. long story short the propshaft never moved from the coupler but the large nut around the trans shaft shifted forward making play in the coupler that fits into the trans. Now what should I do? I still have to get the prop shaft out of the way to work on correcting the problem I caused with the trans shaft nut. This thing is almost welded together. I am at the point where I am considering cutting the prop shaft to remove the coupler. I would like to save the prop shaft If I can but if necessary I will cut it. I have already caused a lot of damage tring to free it. I am assuming the only thing I can do to the trans when I remove the prop shaft and coupler is remove the nut from the trans shaft. Rethread the treads (some how) and try to use the same nut ( if it will fit). I am afraid when I rethread it I will never find a nut to fit it. I am not sure what to do at this point?

I checked the set screws before I started the process of removing the prop shaft from the coupler. I need to think of a tool, puller or clamp that I can fit between the coupler to push the prop shaft through it. I only have a couple of inches between the trans coupler and the prop shaft coupler. I am hoping this post will help someone else so that they do not get into the position I am in. I need to get this prop shaft out of the coupler and repair the trans shaft threading.

Is there any problem with heating the coupler? I find that a little heat goes a long way whenever any random piece of metal is stuck inside another piece of metal. Get one of those propane or MAPP gas torches with the nifty trigger start. If you heat up the coupler first, you might be able to go back to the same method you were using before. You might also want to get some penetrating lubricant in there just in case there's any bit of corrosion in there. Blaster PB is good and widely available.

Of course, it shouldn't be too hard (unless I'm missing something here) to just drop your rudder out, pull the shaft out a bit, and throw a puller on there.

I pulled the coupler off my shaft a couple of weeks ago with a "harmonic balancer / steering wheel puller" (two hole puller). ...BUT, I had to use a short center bolt in the puller to fit between the coupler and the transmission flange.

I tried the tap on the back of the prop and it pulled the trans flange out of the trans by dethreading the nut on the trans shaft. Going to have to rethread the trans shaft. I think the steering wheel puller with a small center bolt and some heat will be the method to try. The area between the two couplers is 2". I have thought about a three arm gear puller but not even the smallest 3" puller will fit in the area between the two couplers. It is the end of the season and I am going to try to save as much of this set up as I can. I think I might upgrade it in the winter to a double taper shaft, new coupler and new strut bushings. Jameski how pressed on was your shaft to the coupler? Did it come right out or did it take some time?? Mine is really really inthere.   

You could insert a section of steel plate between the two couplers, insert your small socket or other object between the plate and the prop shaft, and then try again to squeeze the two couplers together with the four (over-long) bolts.

In other words,put something across the transmission coupler face so that the force from socket and prop shaft is transferred to the transmission coupler and not the transmission output shaft.

Last week my drive shaft on my 1986 Nautique broke just in front of the prop. About 1" was left after the strut. I did every thing suggested to get the coupling off the shaft. Nothing worked. The shaft was junk anyway and even SE Correct Craft said to just cut it off. So I took a cut off wheel and in five minutes I had the shaft in half and the coupling off. No hassle and no stress on the transmission. I still had not been able to get the remainder of the shaft out of the coupling. Time for new parts. The bad thing was that I was not able to find the prop.

Before this happened to me I had not heard of a shaft just breaking. From what I can tell of my shaft it was time to be replaced.

I broke a brand new shaft once, be sure to check the alignment!