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wood floor replacement options?

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skellum View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-26-2004 at 3:42am

The plywood floor (particularly under the drivers feet could use replacement on my 64 skier. It looks like plywood, but i know there are like 50 different types of plywood.

is there a particular type of plywood/particle board that works best for this application.

after cutting, before installing, is there some type of treatment/paint/covering that should be applied to any flooring like this?

as my icon says, i'm a newb. :-/

thx!
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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2004 at 3:06pm
I am not familiar with the 64 construction, but I know my 77 did not have a wood floor from the factory. The floor was fiberglass laid over a structural foam.

When I restored the boat in 89, I removed the fiberglass floor, let the foam dry out over several weeks in the sun, then used 3/4 marine grade plywood with a fiberglass overlay. I painted the bottom and edges of the plywood with epoxy resin prior to anchoring to the stringers, etc. So far, the floor is rock solid.

Be aware that this method adds height to the floor and you must account for this in some areas as applicable to your boat. It also adds weight, but the end result is worth the added weight. Also, marine grade plywood just means it is a structural plywood (no voids) with waterproof adhesive. It will still rot just like any other plywood, so it must stay dry. Good luck.
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skellum View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skellum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2004 at 4:32pm

Sounds like i'm looking for marine grade plywood then.

When checking over what was there, i noticed that although it looked like regular plywood, it seemed more solid (less flex) and possibly more dense.

i'll track some down and seal with epoxy resin before installing it. thanks for the advise!
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Rick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2004 at 8:22pm
MArine Plywood is made with waterproof glue and doesn't have any voids. Its about 3X the price of standard. If you are going to epoxy it before installing it I would use standard good both sides exterior grade plywood.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdreiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-26-2004 at 8:29pm
I second everything David F says, but might suggest searching for some composite material to use instead of the plywood. When I redid my 81 I got some composite (the same Bryant uses in their boats) and it was used for the stringers and floor. It was only a few dollars more than marine grade and I have peace of mind.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kenny g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2004 at 10:49am
skellum,marine grade plywood is a good choice [ for a pontoon deck ] it weighs a ton and still rot's out in a few short years.at least on a pontoon it gets air flow on both sides.
the floor on our boats is another story.
i have spent a lot of time researching this,and yes,composites are good material.
for me,i want 2 things.what has less weight and will last the longest?
exterior plywood,painted with a 2-part epoxy.
if you coat that wood especially on the edges it should outlast the best marine grade carpet you can find. and less weight in your boat. hint. after you get the plywood cut & ready to apply the epoxy. wipe it down real good with lacquer thinner.this will remove any sap/resin still traped in the wood.i made this mistake on my first board and wondered why i had fish-eyes in the finish.
kenny g
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64 Skier View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-30-2004 at 8:53pm
My '64 has the original plywood with CC numbering on the individula panels. It was sealed or varnished and does not look like marine plywood.
64 Skier
66" HO VTX and 67" HO Triumph
71CC
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NAUTI84 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NAUTI84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-01-2004 at 1:02pm
I'm with Kenny G.
I've got a friend who restores old Lyman wood boats and all he always uses Laun (Spelling?) plywood and coats it in epoxy.
I re-did part of my 84's floor & seats. I had him get me two sheets of the Laun from his supplier.
(I don't think you can get it from a Home Depot type place. I think you need to go to a place that specializes in wood products?)
Mine came out great. The Laun is very dense, no voids and the epoxy seals it all up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2004 at 3:04pm
Luan (pronounced lou-ann) plywood will work just fine. It is more of a cabinet grade plywood that will be of sufficient strength and does not use waterproof glue (I believe). The glue issue may be a moot point since it will be sealed from water anyway. Luan is probably more expensive than marine grade plywood however.
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kenny g View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kenny g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-03-2004 at 5:11pm
why would u want to use luan/cabinet grade wood.assumeing your going to glue a carpet over it.it sure wont outlast exterior grade plywood if sealed.
every day on this forum,somebody's trying to make there boat go faster than it was designed to,why would you want to add more weight by using marine grade wood ? to me,that makes as much sense as trying to use pressure treated lumber to rebuild your stringers. SKELLUM. check out GLEN-L marine designs web-site.chapter 5-lumber.
wood use and characteristics chart.
and decide 4 yourself what type of wood to use.if any at all. i can tell you from experence a 1964 CC is going to have a certain amount of saturated flotation foam inbetween the hull and the floor.it may look dry on the top.but that aint where water settles,and thats a whole new subject.
if you dont want to use wood at all.find someone with a chopper gun,and spray in a new fiberglass lining,epoxy coat that,and then glue carpet down.
kenny g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-05-2004 at 1:06pm
I agree that there is not benifit in using Luan. However, Marine grade is a MUCH better choice than exterior grade plywood simply because Marine grade plywood is a structural plywood whereas CDX (exterior grade) is NOT. I sealed my replacement wood floor prior to glassing it in completey. The way I look at it, I have greatly contributed to the structural integrity of the hull at a modest weight increase. Given the power of my 17'-9" boat with a 351W, the weight increase is totally NOT an issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-05-2004 at 4:24pm
I don't believe kenny g was referring to CDX which is more like pressed paper. I guess the main point to remember is to seal all sides with epoxy and then glass it in to give it more strength. The composite material is nice but about twice the price depending on the type you get. Some you can cut to size and lay it down others have to be epoxyed and glassed in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-06-2004 at 12:49pm
CDX is a standard/common plywood. The C means C grade one face, D means D grade opposite face and X means exterior (i.e waterproof glue).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yellowdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-06-2004 at 6:16pm
Just to help clarify a few things;

Luan is a cheap mahogany and very a very soft wood, but there is some natural resistant to rot. However, if used a a plywood veneer, it is only as good as the wood it covers. It is used a lot a a veneer on inexpensive hollow core interior doors for a painted finish.

CDX is real plywood not an OSB, oriented stand board, which I think '79 was referring to. Both are a structrual wood panel, but neither should be used in this application. If using standard plywood, go to a BBX. Both sides are solid or plugged and it uses exterior glue. One thing to remember with exterior glues or 'exposure I' ratings, they are not meant for constant direct exposure to the weather or wet environments. They may be used in exterior applications if protected, like a soffit on a house.

Marine grade plywood is more of a structural classification than water resistance. It will deteriorate with exposure.

There are plywoods treated with CCA (or the newer treatments) to the .60 retention that are used underground in wood foundation systems. These can be very difficult to find in many geographical areas.

If looking for something that goes in once and will last as long as the hull, go with the non-organic poly-based composites.

Anyone give any thought to the cement boards used as underlayment for ceramic floor tile?
Caretaker of the wife's '78 Ski Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cshire Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2004 at 12:05am
There are some excellent resources on the web for learning about plywood/fiberglass/epoxy boat construction.

I recommend bateau.com and their FAQ's and discussion boards as a great starting point.

They also discuss use of foam and honeycomb core panels for this type of construction.

Honeycomb core panels plascore.com

For plywood, you want a close, smooth grain to prevent checking and cracking. Mahogany type marine plywoods are ideal for this. Laminating a layer of fiberglass to the plywood should eliminate all checking and cracking, even in fir plywood.

With care in selection of materials you should be able to replace your floor section with lighter and stronger construction that should outlast you and your children with reasonable care.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2004 at 3:03pm
Hey yellowdog! Use cement board (aka Durock) as a ceramic tile underlayment. Just be sure to use plenty of screws and/or glue. Then simply thinset the tile directly on top of the cement board. It will last forever.
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