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Mountain vs. Mole Hill - Zinc Oils

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    Posted: August-21-2007 at 2:41am
What about the Mercruiser or Pennzoil marine oils? Anybody run those? I have some '05 Rotella 15W-40 in my boat right now, but was going to go with the Pennzoil marine of the same weight. I have seen it at West Marine(price not too bad if you can believe it -12.99 a gallon). And Pennzoil is a Shell product. I have also heard good things about Mercruiser oil, but I'm not sure who they source from. I am just curious why no one is looking to go with marine specific oils.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2007 at 3:25pm
Sounds like it will work fine for you. I'm always nervous about mixing oils so I'm happy you stayed with the straight 20W50.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-20-2007 at 12:58pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

I'll go with the VR1, either the 20w50 or a mix of 20w50 and 10w30. Its also good that the VR1 is $2 cheaper per qt.


I changed over to the Valvoline Racing VR1 20w50 this weekend. I would have tried a blend of the 20w50 and 10w30, but couldnt find the lighter weight locally. According to my oil pressure gauge, there was no difference between the 15w40 and 20w50. I get 50psi at idle, and 60-70psi at speed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2007 at 1:47pm
Originally posted by backfoot100 backfoot100 wrote:

Originally posted by Munday Munday wrote:

My answer is yes,flat cam one lobe down another going when pulled apart.Mobil 1 1000 hour motor changed to Mobil at about 750 hours


Munday;

What weight Mobil 1 were you running at the time? I only ask because I'm a Mobil 1 freak. I've used nothing but Mobil 1 since the mid eighties in literally everything I've owned that is a four stoke. That includes lawn mowers and pressure washers. Never a problem of any kind. Mobil 1 website specifically states that the 15W-50 Mobil 1 is reformulated to include even more of the ZDDP additives for race and high performance engines that would require the extra lubrication. FWIW, I've run that 15W-50 M1 in my boat since I've owned it. That was at 450 HR's and now approaching 1300. Pressure is 40 PSI idle and never seen higher than 60. I also run probably 75-80% of the time at 4000 RPM or higher for my barefooting so I by no means baby this thing.

I plan on calling Mobil next week to talk to somebody to confirm and find out about the lesser weight oils. I'll post the results.



OK, I just talked with Joe at Mobil and questioned him about this subject. He told me that there are a few synthetic Mobil oils that are safe to use for flat tappet cammed motors:
M1 15W-50
M1 Extended Performance 15W-50
M1 High Mileage 10W-30
M1 High Mileage 10W-40




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2007 at 11:49am
Originally posted by M3Fan M3Fan wrote:

Originally posted by whiz05403 whiz05403 wrote:

Gents, great posts, good learning for all. Does anyone know what Valvoline filter to buy to replace the Fram PH8A for my 96 GT40?



As for the filter, some other good options would be the Motorcraft FL-1A or the Napa Gold 1515.


Yup- I cant remember if the Valvoline filters are any good or not. The Motorcraft, Mobil1 and Wix (NAPA) are all safer bets.

If it were me, Id drain the Mobil1 and put it in another motor. Then again, you may be OK.

Im sure that the new Hemi is roller- flat tappets are way old-tech.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2007 at 11:24am
Originally posted by whiz05403 whiz05403 wrote:

Gents, great posts, good learning for all. Does anyone know what Valvoline filter to buy to replace the Fram PH8A for my 96 GT40?



As for the filter, some other good options would be the Motorcraft FL-1A or the Napa Gold 1515.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote whiz05403 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-14-2007 at 2:26am
Gents, great posts, good learning for all. Does anyone know what Valvoline filter to buy to replace the Fram PH8A for my 96 GT40?

Also I just got talked into running MO in my 2003 Ram with the 5.7 Hemi, is this motor a roller cam or flat tappet?

Also I just put in MO in my GT40 for the first time after the truck oil change, after reading other posts I added STP oil treatment. Will this be enough to get me through to the next change or should I change to the 20W-50 Valvoline now?

Thanks in advance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2007 at 2:51pm
Tim, thanks for the research. I'm glad I got the right oil. What a production this has been.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2007 at 2:45pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Just happen to have a quart of VR1 20W50 here in front of me.

"Ashless anti-wear additives and ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection"

"API Services SM/SL/CD"

It does not say off road only. It may be the single weight oils that are marked off road, not sure.


My concern was that the VR1 has the API SM cert, so it is street legal.

I just spoke with a Valvoline tech again, and he said the reason the VR1 meets the API spec is because of the detergent package. The conventional (non-street legal) racing oil has a reduced detergents package that prevents it from meeting the cert. That oil has a recommended oil change interval of 500 miles, as opposed to the 3k mile change interval with the VR1.

Both the VR1 and conventional racing oil have high levels of zinc and phosphorus (though the conventional has slightly more with 1400ppm vs. 1300ppm).

I'll go with the VR1, either the 20w50 or a mix of 20w50 and 10w30. Its also good that the VR1 is $2 cheaper per qt.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2007 at 2:41pm
I figured the off-road packaging was just the newer label! Dammit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2007 at 2:02pm
Just happen to have a quart of VR1 20W50 here in front of me.

"Ashless anti-wear additives and ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection"

"API Services SM/SL/CD"

It does not say off road only. It may be the single weight oils that are marked off road, not sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2007 at 1:52pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Not sure which 20W50 you are looking for, Autozone has the Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W50 for a bit over $3 a quart.


Ive heard good things about the VR1, but thats not what Im looking for. I noticed it has the API seal on the bottle, though Im not sure which standard it meets. The tech I spoke to at Valvoline said the true racing oils dont have the API cert, so can contain higher levels of ZDDP (and are marked off road only). Maybe Ill put another call in to them for clarification.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2007 at 1:36pm
Yep, Autozone. Just over 3.00/qt.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2007 at 1:26pm
Not sure which 20W50 you are looking for, Autozone has the Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W50 for a bit over $3 a quart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2007 at 1:05pm
Originally posted by M3Fan M3Fan wrote:

I just ran my boat on 20W50 for the first time yesterday. Oil pressure was certainly high, between 60 and 80 psi the whole time. When the motor was completely warmed up, it would back down to around 45-50 psi at idle.


Thats about what I see right now with the 15w40. Glad to hear the 20w50 isnt much different. I swung by NAPA last week to pick some up- they didnt have any in stock but could order it... price was $5.70/qt! Did you find it any cheaper?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2007 at 12:19pm
I just ran my boat on 20W50 for the first time yesterday. Oil pressure was certainly high, between 60 and 80 psi the whole time. When the motor was completely warmed up, it would back down to around 45-50 psi at idle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2007 at 11:52pm
Originally posted by Munday Munday wrote:

My answer is yes,flat cam one lobe down another going when pulled apart.Mobil 1 1000 hour motor changed to Mobil at about 750 hours


Munday;

What weight Mobil 1 were you running at the time? I only ask because I'm a Mobil 1 freak. I've used nothing but Mobil 1 since the mid eighties in literally everything I've owned that is a four stoke. That includes lawn mowers and pressure washers. Never a problem of any kind. Mobil 1 website specifically states that the 15W-50 Mobil 1 is reformulated to include even more of the ZDDP additives for race and high performance engines that would require the extra lubrication. FWIW, I've run that 15W-50 M1 in my boat since I've owned it. That was at 450 HR's and now approaching 1300. Pressure is 40 PSI idle and never seen higher than 60. I also run probably 75-80% of the time at 4000 RPM or higher for my barefooting so I by no means baby this thing.

I plan on calling Mobil next week to talk to somebody to confirm and find out about the lesser weight oils. I'll post the results.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2007 at 9:59am
Nutty, good info and research... thanks!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2007 at 1:21am
Originally posted by nuttyskier2002 nuttyskier2002 wrote:


Part of the reason for the boat Tull mentioned being able to achieve 3000 hours was due to the electronic fuel injection. FI engines last longer due to better fuel atomization and more precise control of fuel and ignition.


I'm certain, but along those lines, I can add we've been skiing regularly behind a carburated indmar 351 powered 88 MC PS with 2900 hard hours, and no symptoms, tranny and engine have never been opened. There are always fliers in the distribution.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2007 at 12:51am
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

Thanks Nutty and 90

Nutty, you said that GM went to roller in '96...does that mean that the '95 Tull mentioned is essentially the same motor I have in my '88 or did mercruiser match up different parts inside?

Thanks again


BFN, I was able to get my hands on a Mercruiser parts catalog and here's what it seems to indicate: In 95 the 454 was designated as the 454 EFI Ski Gen V engine. It has electronic fuel injection but no roller cam. It was the only big block available for that year under Mercruiser. In '96 the designation changed to 454 Mag MPI Ski Gen VI. This engine did come with a roller cam.

Part of the reason for the boat Tull mentioned being able to achieve 3000 hours was due to the electronic fuel injection. FI engines last longer due to better fuel atomization and more precise control of fuel and ignition. However, I'm sure the oil used did help the camshaft to live longer. Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2007 at 11:18pm
Okay, I have made several phone calls to verious places including Mercury Marine, Summit and several other places that deal in marine engine parts. Here's what I've found out. If you want to be sure of what your engine came with (roller or flat tappet), right down your engine serial number and call the local dealership service dept. Give them all your information. In any given year from 88 to 97 (and maybe beyond) your marine engine (depending on model and serial #) could have either a flat or roller cam. Don't trust anyone who says that all of any particular model has a factory roller cam. Especially if it falls below a 97 year model.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2007 at 5:18pm
Spoke to a tech at PCM today, the Excalibur does not need the Zinc additive, also asked about the proper oil spec for the 15W-40 (5W-30 below 50deg) as depending on where you look PCM calls for "SJ", "SL" or "SM", he indicated any of those specs are fine.
They do not recommend any specific brand of oil, Havoline is what is used at the factory.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-10-2007 at 12:44am
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

Thanks Nutty and 90

Nutty, you said that GM went to roller in '96...does that mean that the '95 Tull mentioned is essentially the same motor I have in my '88 or did mercruiser match up different parts inside?

Thanks again


Actually I can't take credit for saying that the trucks didn't get the roller 'til '96 (which is true for the most part). You can thank TRBenj and racinj for that bit a factual information. I did some research last night and this morning to verify and sure enough they are right. Except for a few exceptions, trucks didn't get roller cams til '96. Car engines started getting rollers in '87. The engine Tull mentioned is a big block so I don't know when they got them. Since the car engines had rollers and trucks not, I would assume they come from different assembly lines. So which one of those lines are the marine engines pulled from? I've always thought truck but I could be wrong. Or maybe there's a dedicated assembly line for marine engines. I called the Mercruiser Headquarters in Oklahoma. The tech I talked to gave me a part number for a cam for a 95 Mercruiser 5.7 Magnum Skier (which is the engine I have in my boat) but he couldn't tell me if it is a roller camshaft. I will make a few calls to dealership service departments and find out what I can and post the results.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote racintj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-09-2007 at 2:01pm
I wouldn't think that anything 60 and under is a problem, but I've blown oil filters at just above 80. I just don't like to see the pressure that high when it is not needed. I will be curious what your pressure is on the 20 50. Good point on the CamResearch recommendations, if they say that's what to run on their cams...just do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-09-2007 at 1:39pm
Originally posted by racintj racintj wrote:


TRBenj, I don't want to beat a dead horse, but does it bother you running the oil pressure with the 20-50. I just hate seeing that needle so high all the time, especially when 30psi is plenty anytime.


I dont know enough for it to bother me. I need to read up more on the subject to find out the drawbacks of high oil pressure. For now, if thats what Cam Research recommends, thats what I'll run.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-09-2007 at 11:28am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:


Would love to agree with you Tim,BUT, gonna run the 40T, am trying to order a 5 gal. bucket of the stuff,down here we call it "rat holein'"


Sounds about right for you, Doc! Im sure that the 40w will work great for you, especially down there in the swamp where its hot all the time. The cold starts with a heavy grade oil scare me a bit- we try to stretch the season here in New England until the (high) temps are only in the 50's.


This is exactly my rationale for running the multi. We ski from April-November if we're lucky in Chicago. With the engine drawing in 43-50 degree water from the lake as well as starts with air temps in the 40's and 50's it seems like the multi is the best fit. I've heard that the 351 can blow rear seals with straight 40W in the cold- can anyone verify if this is true?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-09-2007 at 9:57am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

.


Im afraid im uneducated on the pitfalls of high oil pressure- what are the drawbacks? Can you blow a seal or make the oil frothy/airy?



I don't really have an answer for you onthat Tim. Back when I was shopping for parts there was a thread that argued the High Pressure pumps build more heat. I talked to my engine builder and he contended the HV pump help draw heat away from internal engine components because of the higher flow of oil. He also said that was his opinion and unsubstantialed but he's been building engines for a long time. He and I selected most of the internals together, so far so good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-09-2007 at 7:44am
Thanks Nutty and 90

Nutty, you said that GM went to roller in '96...does that mean that the '95 Tull mentioned is essentially the same motor I have in my '88 or did mercruiser match up different parts inside?

Thanks again
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-09-2007 at 5:08am
Originally posted by M3Fan M3Fan wrote:

I had a friend with a 1993 Jimmy with the 4.3 V6 and Vortech heads, all stock.


Yes, the GM 4.3 engine had Vortec heads heads prior to '96 but the V8's did not. 96 was the year GM started putting Vortec heads on the V8.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote racintj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-09-2007 at 2:25am
nutty, TRBenj is right, the truck motors didn't get the roller until 1996, unless you got the Vortec. The TBI GM truck motors still had flat tappets. Not sure about the marinized motors.

TRBenj, I don't want to beat a dead horse, but does it bother you running the oil pressure with the 20-50. I just hate seeing that needle so high all the time, especially when 30psi is plenty anytime. Thanks for doing the research on the Valvoline, I have always ran Valvoline in everything else. Funny thing is, I have some V racing oil in the garage now. Just never looked at the label.

M3Fan, you mentioned about our motors only turning 4500 rpm and mild cams, but the difference is these motors are ALWAYS under a load. Extreme pressures on these lobes all the time. You have handled it well.
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